2004 4 tehris .pdf



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I

J
I. Baby's bodysuit


50-56-62-68-74-80-86 em

Page 48

cut

PATTERN PIECES

CUTTING
Cut neckline band and bindings for leg
openings from ribbing and other garment
pieces from interlock or rib knit as
indicated on list of pattern pieces. Check
length of binding strips before sewing as
the stretch and recovery qualities of
different knits vary. *Cut binding strips
without adding seam allowances.
INSTRUCTIONS
Stitch seams with serger or use overedge
stretch stitch on regular sewing machine.

MATERIALS

I front

I

- 60-60-65-65-70-75-75 em
brushed interlock or rib knit
- 10 em ribbing
- 18 em cotton tape (width 20 mm)
for stabilizing snap area
- 2 snap fasteners

2 back

I

3 sleeve
4 neckline band*
5 binding for leg openings*

2
I

Preparation: Cut cotton tape into 4
pieces. Pin and stitch pieces of tape to
wrong side of front and back panels in
snap areas as marked on pattern, turning
seam allowance at one end of tape under
and stitching other end of tape to
garment seam allowance.
Leg openings: Stitch edge of binding
to wrong side of leg opening, stretching
binding slightly.Fold binding in half,turn
seam allowance under and topstitch
turned-under edge of binding to right
side of garment.

2. Leggings (A) and footed pants (B)

PATTERN SHEET

A

I

green

joining: Stitch sleeve-edge hems with
sergeI' coverstitch or on regular sewing
machine using e.g. double-needle, multiple
zigzagor honeycomb stitch. Stitch sleeves
to garment front and back (= raglan
seams). Stitch sleeve underarm seams
and side seams; before stitching, fold up
front-panel bottom hem allowance to
right side and place back panel within
hem. Leave bodysuit inside out.
Neckline: Join ends of neckline band to
form closed loop and fold it in half,wrong
sides together. Mark quarter points on

neckline band and along neckline. Pin
folded band to neckline, right sides
together, aligningquarter point markings.
Stitch neckline seam, stretching both
band and neck edge well to produce an
elastic seam.
Finishing: Stitch bottom hem with serger
coverstitch or on regular sewing machine
using e.g. double-needle, multiple zigzag
or honeycomb stitch.Attach snap
fasteners.

50-56-62-68-74-80-86 (A: +92-98) em

Pages 48,50-51

MATERIALS
- 45-45-50-,55-55-60-65-70-75 em
brushed interlock or rib knit (A)

PATTERN PIECES

cut

- 50-50-55-60-65-70-75 em
rnicrofleece or brushed interlock
or rib k)1i~ (B)

I '9> pants panel (A)
I pants panel (B)

2
2

2 sole (B)

2

- 40 .. .50 em elastic, width 25 mm

PATTERN SHEET
CUTTING
Cut garment pieces from knit as indicated
on list of pattern pieces; in design A, note
pattern marking for bottom edge of leg.
INSTRUCTIONS
Stitch seams with sergeI' or use overedge
stretch stitch on regular sewing machine.

3. Dress

joining: Stitch inseams. Stitch crotch
seam.
Waistline: Finish raw edge of waistline.
Measure and adjust elastic to fit child's
waist (length of elastic child's waist
minus 7 ... 9 cm).Join ends of elastic to
form closed loop. Mark quarter points
on elastic and along waistline. Pin and

=

50-56-62-68-74-80-86-92-98 em

- 40-45-45-50-55-65-75-85-95 em
similar
rnlcrofleece, velour knit
fabric
- 15 em x 30 em piece of light-weight
cotton for pocket lining
- 15...20 ern stabilizing
Vlieseline® Formband
- 5 cm ribbing
- 28 ... 32 ern elastic, width
- 34 em gingham ribbon,
width 10 mm
- 5 em ribbon trim, width 15 mm,
or small label
- I button, '" 12 mm

A

blue

coverstitch or on regular sewing machine
using e.g. double-needle, multiple zigzag
or honeycomb stitch. Design B: Pin and
stitch sole panels to pants, right sides
together.

Pages 50-51

CUTTING
Cut collar and binding without adding
seam allowances and all other pieces
with I em seam allowances. Cut two
pocket pieces from fleece and another
two pieces from cotton. Cut collar/slit
binding from ribbing; check length of
binding strip before sewing as the stretch
and recovery qualities of different knits
vary. Cut other garment pieces from
fleece as indicated on list of pattern
pieces.

MATERIALS

machine-baste elastic to wrong side of
waistline along outer edge of seam allow­
ance, aligning qual-tel' point markings.
Fold waistline casing and elastic to inside
and stitch through all layers using e.g.
multiple zigzag or honeycomb stitch.
Finishing: Design A: Stitch hems at
bottom edges of pants legs with serger

INSTRUCTIONS
Stitch seams with straight stitch and finish
them with serger or zigzag stitch. Stitch
sleeve-edge hems and bottom hem with
serger coverstitch or on regular machine
using e.g. double-needle, multiple zigzag
or honeycomb stitch. Seams are top­
stitched using presser foot edge as guide.
Preparation: Fuse stabilizing tapes to
back shoulder seam allowances; see p.
33. Stitch piece of ribbon trim or small
label to left sleeve as marked on pattern.
Sleeve edges: Turn up, press and stitch
sleeve-edge hems. Cut elastic in half and
adjust pieces to fit child's arm. Stitch
elastic to wrong side of sleeve with
narrow zigzag as marked on pattern;
stretch elastic as you sew.

Pockets: Stitch self-fabric pocket pieces
and pocket liningpieces together in pairs.
right sides facing;leave small opening for
turning pocket section right side out.
Trim seam allowances and taper them
at corners, and turn pockets right side
out. Close openings by hand-stitching
and steam-press pockets lightly.Topstitch
opening edges of pockets. Pin and stitch
small gingham bows to pockets. Pin and
topstitch pockets to from panel as
marked on pattern.
Collar and front slit: Stitch and top­
stitch shoulder seams. Pin and stitch
collar pieces to neckline. with neck edge
in between collar pieces (place under
collar and neck edge right sides together,
and right side of upper collar facingwrong
side of neck edge). Pin collar pieces
together, wrong sides faCing, and machine­
baste their outer edges together. Join
ends of collar/slit binding strip to form
closed loop; check length of binding.Mark
quarter points on binding and along the
length of collar edge and slit. Pin edge of
binding to edge of collar and slit on
under-collar side (align quarter point
markings) and stitch in place using presser
foot edge as guide. Fold binding in half,
turn and pin seam allowance under and
topstitch turned-under edge of binding
to collar on upper-collar side. Be

cut

PATTERN PIECES
I front
2 back
3 sleeve
4 collar
5 binding for collar and
front slit
6 pocket

PATTERN SHEET

I
I
2
2

I
2+2

A

red

especially careful when attaching binding
to slit and, if necessary, hand-baste binding
in place before stitching.
joining: Stitch sleeves to armholes and
topstitch seams. Stitch sleeve and side
seams. Turn up. press and stitch bottom
hem.
Button and button loop: Sew button
to top corner of slit. Make button loop
by crocheting a row of chain stitches or
by making thread loop and covering it
with buttonhole stitches.

26

J

r


I

~7

PATTERN PIECES

MATERIALS
- 70-80-85-90-100-105 cm
light-weight outerwear fabric for
shell
75-80-85-90-j 00-11 0 em
light-weight wadding,Vlieseline®
Volumenvlies 281, width 150 cm)
- 75-80-85-90-100-1 10 cm
microfleece for lining
- 2 zippers, length
25-30-35-40-45-50 cm

- 10 cm elastic, width 8 mm

- 4 snap fasteners


c-

ABOUT DESIGN
You can make the design just from
outerwear fabric and fleece, or you can
add wadding in between the shell and
lining,depending on the purpose of the
garment. Instructions concerning wadding
have been printed in italics in brackets.
CUTTING
Lining: Cut lining pieces from fleece as
indicated on list of pattern pieces. Since
lining fabric is stretchy, cut lining pieces
out with 0.5 em seam allowances and
sew them with I cm seam allowances in
order to keep liningfrom showing under
shell.
Shell: Cut off pattern for bottom leg
panel from pattern for back, as well as
pattern for sleeve-edge panel from pat­
tern for sleeve,as separate pattern pieces.
Cut garment pieces from outerwear
fabric as indicated on list of pattern
pieces.
(Wadding: Cut wadding pieces out as
indicated on list o( pattern pieces (or fining;
add I cm seam allowances and cut back
panels and sleeves each in one piece without
panel seams.)
Design B, taffeta ribbon and lace:
Cut five 10 cm pieces for trims and one
6 cm piece for teddy-bear's bow from
taffeta ribbon. Cut five 18 cm pieces from
lace for trims; cut one corner at each
end of lace pieces in rounded wedge
shape.
INSTRUCTIONS
Design A, compass and teddy-bear
motif: Read general instructions for
applique and embroidery on p.44.Trace
compass and teddy-bear motif from pat­
tern sheet and cut areas shaded in grey
from white outerwear fabric. Fuse white

For design A also:
- embroidery thread
- piece of white outerwear fabric
for embroidery
- double-sided interfacing,
Vlieseline® Vliesofix
- tear-away backing,Vlieseline®

5tickvlies


For design B also:
- embroidery thread
- tear-away backing,Vlieseline®
5tickvlies
- 90 cm cotton lace, width 20 mm
- 56 cm taffeta ribbon, width 10 mm
shapes to shell's front center panel using
double-sided interfacing. Stitch edges of
applique shapes with narrow short Zigzag.
Embroider rest of motif with reinforced
straight stitch.
Design B, teddy-bear motif with
bow: Read general instructions for em­
broidery on p.44.Trace teddy-bear motif
from pattern sheet and embroider it on
shell's front center panel with reinforced
straight stitch. Work embroidery below
teddy-bear using machine embroidery
stitches. Make bow from taffeta ribbon,
pin it in place and attach with hand
stitches.
Lace and taffeta ribbon trims, design
B: Sew gathering stitches along one edge
and rounded ends of each lace piece and
gather edges by slightly pullingon bobbin
threads. Stitch one edge of taffeta ribbon
on top of gathered edge of lace, leaving
I cm seam allowance at each end of
taffeta ribbon. Stitch trims to right side
of snowsuit shell as follows: Stitch trims
to front side panels from seam to seam
as marked on pattern.
Turn seam allowances at ends of sleeve
trims under and stitch trims in place.
Stitch hood trim in place in the same
way as sleeve trims after joining hood
panels*.
Tabs for bootees: Fold tab piece in
half,wrong sides together, turn seam
allowances at long edge and one end in
and topstitch edges together. Machine­
baste tab to right side of back bottom
leg panel as marked on pattern.
Shell: Stitch bottom leg panels to snow­
suit back panels and sleeve-edge panels
to sleeves, right sides together. Fold seam
allowances toward bottom leg panels
and sleeve-edge panels and topstitch
seams using presser foot edge as guide.

cut

lining
I front center panel
I
2 front side panel
2
3 bottom leg panel,
front
2
4 back
2
4 ~ bottom leg
panel, back
5 sleeve
2
5 ~ sleeve-edge
panel
6 hood
2
7 neck tab
I
8 tab for bootees
teddy-bear motif

=

PATTERN SHEET

nln

LhJo

A

shell

I
2
2
2
2
2
2
2

..

I

2

-~Jf4,,'\. __

"L.·"::

....­

black

(Adding wadding ta shell: Pin wadding
pieces to wrongside o( shell panels and
stitch wadding and shell panels together
along seam allowances, close to edges.)
Stitch front side panels to front center
panel, starting from bottom edges of legs
and stitching until notches for zippers,
and press seams open. Pin and stitch
zippers to front section, right sides
together, attaching one zipper tape at a
time. Stitch bottom leg panels to snow­
suit front section, right sides together.
Fold seam allowances toward bottom
leg panels and topstitch seams using
presser foot edge as guide.
joining shell: Stitch center back seam.
Stitch sleeves to front and back sections,
fold seam allowances toward sleeves and
topstitch seams. Stitch sleeve under-arm
seams and side seams. Stitch inseams.
joining lining: Stitch front side panels
to front center panel, starting from
bottom edges of legs and stitching until
notches for Zippers, and press seams
open. Stitch bottom leg panels to lining's
front section. Stitch center back seam
and leave 15 em opening in seam for
turning snowsuit right side out. Stitch
sleeves to lining's front and back sections.
Stitch sleeve underarm seams and side
seams. Stitch inseams.
Hood: Stitch self-fabric hood panels
together, right sides facing. Repeat for
hood lining panels. (*Design B:Stitch
hood trim in place.)
Place hood sections within one another,
right sides together, and stitch face edges
together. Stitch piece of elastic to face­
edge seam allowance between notches
using straight stitch; stretch elastic as
you sew.Turn hood right side out, place
hood sections within one another and
topstitch along face edge, using presser

foot edge as guide. Machine-baste lower
edges of hood sections together along
seam allowances. Machine-baste hood
to shell's neckline as marked on pattern,
right sides together.
joining shell and lining: At this stage,
shell and liningare inside out, and sleeves
and sleeve linings hang separately. Pin and
stitch shell and lining together along
zipper edges on front side panels and
along lower edge of hood at neck edge,
right sides facing. Bring sleeve edges of
shell and lining end to end, line up edges
and pin them together, right sides facing,
and stitch (note that sleeve and sleeve
liningare not placed within one another).
Stitch shell and lining together in the
same way along bottom edges of legs.
Turn snowsuit right side out and insert
sleeve linings into sleeves and leg linings
into legs. Pull front center section out
through opening in center back seam.
Pin and stitch front-center shell and lining
together along zipper edges, right sides
facing.Turn snowsuit right side out and
stitch front-center neck edges together.
Close opening in center back seam with
hand stitches.
Neck tab: Pin and stitch tab pieces
together, right sides facing,and leave
opening between notches. Pin and stitch
self-fabric edge of tab to snowsuit's
neckline, right sides together.Taper seam
allowances at corners of tab and turn
tab right side out.Turn seam allowance
at lower edge of tab's lining in and stitch
edge to snowsuit by hand.Topstitch edges
of tab using presser foot edge as guide.
Snap fasteners: Attach snap fasteners
to hood and neck tab as well as to
bottom edges of legsand tabs for bootees
as marked on pattern.

27

5. Hat

head circumference

38-40-42-44-46-48-50 em

Bootees

CUTTING
Hat: Cut face-edge binding from ribbing
and other pieces from outerwear fabric
and fleece as indicated on list of pattern
pieces. Bootees: Cut tab pieces from
outerwear fabric (tab pattern includes
seam allowances).
Cut other pieces from outerwear fabric
and fleece as indicated on list of pattern
pieces.
Note! Since lining fabric is stretchy, cut
lining pieces of both hat and bootees out
with O.S em seam allowances and sew
them with I em seam allowances in order
to keep lining from showmg under shell.

MATERIALS

For hat also:
- piece of fusible wadding,
Vlieseline®Volumenvlies 295
- 5 cm ribbing
- 50 cm cotton tape, width I 0 mm

For bootees also:
-

36 .. .44 ern elastic, width 5 mm
Otto Bear label
piece of white outerwear fabric
double-sided interfacing.
Vlieseline®Vliesofix
. tear-away backi ng,
Vlieseline® Stickvlies
• embroidery thread

6. Beanie hat

Bootees
Paw-pad applique: Read general
instructions for applique on p.44.Trace
paw-pad motif from pattern sheet and
cut shapes out from white outerwear
fabric. Fuse shapes to bootee soles using
double-sided interfacing. Stitch edges of
applique shapes with narrow short zigzag.

joining: Stitch darts on both shell and
lining. Stitch shell's crown top to shell's
side panels and topstitch seams using
presser foot edge as guide. Stitch center
back seam. Construct lining in the same
way as shell without topstltching. Leave
small opening in lining's center back seam
for turning hat right side out.
Peak: Cut peak out from fusible wadding
without seam allowances and fuse it to
one of the peak pieces. Pin peak pieces
together, right sides facing, and stitch
curved outer edge.Trim seam allowances,
tu m peak right side out and topstitch its
edge, using presser foot edge as guide.
Machine-baste peak to hat shell as marked
on pattern.

joining bootee exterior: Machine­
baste Otto Bear label to center-back seam
allowance of one of the bootees. Stitch
and topstitch center back seams. Fold
tab piece in half, wrong sides together,
turn seam allowances in and topstitch
close to edges. Cut tab piece in half and
stitch tabs on top of center back seams
as marked on pattern. Cut elastic in half.
Stitch elastics to wrong side of bootee
uppers with zigzag as marked on pattern;
stretch elastics as you sew. Stitch front
seams of bootee uppers. Pin and stitch
soles to bootee uppers, right sides
together, aligning notches.

joining shell and lining: Fold face-edge

joining bootee lining: Stitch front and

head circumference

Pages 48-49

PATTERN PIECES

cut

lining
shell
Hat
2
J side panel
2
I
2 crown top
I
2
3 peak
4 face-edge binding I ribbing
Bootees
4
5 bootee upper
4
2
6 sole
2
6 § paw-pad motif 2 white
7 tab

I

A

PATTERN SHEET

~

CUTTING

stitch Otto Bear label in place.

Cut pieces from fleece as indicated on
list of pattern pieces; cut lining pieces
for scarf and mittens with slightly
narrower seam allowances.
INSTRUCTIONS

Scarf
Pin and stitch scarf pieces together, right
sides facing. and leave small opening
between notches for turning scarf right
side out. Turn scarf right side OUt, close
opening by hand-stitching and topstitch
all edges of scarf using presser foot edge
as guide. Stitch Otto Bear label in place.
Stitch pieces of Velcro tape to scarf as
marked on pattern. placing one half of
tape on the outside and the other on
the inside of scarf.
Mittens
Exterior: Stitch Otto Bear label to

joining bootee exterior and lining:
Pin bootee lining and exterior within one
another, right sides together, and stitch
cuff edge.Turn bootee right side out,
topstitch cuff edge using presser foot
edge as guide and close opening on lining
by hand-stitching.

age

3-6-9-12-15-18 months

-,

Pages 48-49

-----------

exterior panel of one of the mittens as
marked on pattern. Stitch one side seam
of mitten exterior. Cut elastic in half.
Stitch elastic to wrong side of mitten
exterior with zigzag as marked on
pattern; stretch elastic as you sew. Stitch
the other side seam.

Lining: Stitch side seams of lining; leave
small opening in one side seam for turning
lining right side out. Pin mitten lining and
exterior within one another, right sides
together, and stitch cuff edge.Turn mitten
right side out and close opening by hand­
stitching. Place lining inside exterior and
topstitch cuff edge using presser foot
edge as guide.

7.Teddy-bear blanket 90 em x 95 em (from teddy-bear's crown to back paws)

PATTERN PIECES

cut

I beanie hat
2 scarf
3 mitten

2
I+I
4+4

PATTERN SHEET

A

MATERIALS

28

lilac

Pages 50,52

PATTERN PIECES

- 95 ern cotton faux fur
- 70 cm coated outerwear fabric
with sticky surface
- 10 ern x 25 ern piece of white
fl eece for ears
- 10 em black fleece for paw pads
- black wool yarn
- thick white cotton yarn
- double-sided interfacing,
Vlieseline® Vliesofix
- tear·away backing.
Vlieseline® Stickvlies

grey

center back seams of bootee lining and
leave small opening in center back seam
for turning bootee right side out. Pin and
stitch soles to bootee uppers, right sides
together, aligning notches.

tf). ~~'~;: .• ",~ . . //;(:;
-:»,

fleece. velour knit or similar fabric

- 30.. .40 cm elastic, width 5 rnrn

- 4 cm Velcro tape

- 3 Otto Bear labels


Pin and stitch hat pieces together. right
sides facing, and leave small opening
between notches for turning hat right
side out.Turn hat section right side out
and close opening by hand-stitching.
Topstitch "ears" through all layers as
marked on pattern. Fold lining inside hat.
Fold lower edge of hat up and pin and

n

38-40-42-44-46-48-50 em Scarf and mittens

MATERIALS
- 50-50-50-60-60-65-65 cm micro-


Beanie hat

3-6-9-12-15-18 months

binding strip in half,wrong sides together.
and pin and machine-baste it to face edge
of hat shell on top of peak, right sides
together. Cut cotton tape in half and
machine-baste pieces to bottom corners
of hat's face edge. Place hat shell and
lining within one another. right sides
facing, and pin and stitch face edges and
lower edges together, with face-edge rib
binding. peak and tie strings in between.
Turn hat right side out and close opening
by hand-stitching.

INSTRUCTIONS
Hat

- 30-30-35-35-40-40-45 cm
outerwear fabric for shell
·25-30-30-30-35-40-45 cm
microfleece for lining

age

- 70 em wadding,
Vlieseline®Volumenvlies 281,
width 150cm
- 20Q g toy stuffing

cut

I head
(faux fur)
(faux fur)
2 outer ear piece
3 muzzle
(faux fur)
4 stomach
(faux fur)
5 paw
(faux fur)
6 tail
(faux fur)
(outerwear fabric)
4 § back
7 inner ear piece(white fleece)
I § eye
(black fleece)
8 nose
(black fleece)
5 § paw pads (black fleece) 4
PATTERN SHEET

A

2
2

I
I
8
2
I
2
2
I
x 4

orange

r

CUTTING
Trace teddy-bear's eyes from pattern for
head and paw pads from pattern for paw.
Cut pieces from fabrics as indicated on
list of pattern pieces. Cut stomach and
back pieces also from wadding.
INSTRUCTIONS
Eyes and paw pads: Read general
instructions for applique on p. 44. Fuse
eyes and paw pads in place using double­
sided interfacing. Stitch edges of applique
shapes with narrow short zigzag.
Preparation: Machine-baste wadding

8. Baby bunting


pieces to stomach and back pieces along
their edges.
Muzzle: Sew gathering stitches along
edge of nose piece by hand, gather edge
and mould piece into domed shape. Stuff
nose. Turn seam allowances in and attach
nose to muzzle with hand stitches. Sew
gathering stitches along edge of muzzle
and shape muzzle. Stuff muzzle and stitch
it to head piece. Sew mouth on muzzle
by hand with even backstitches using
wool yarn.
Head: Pin inner and outer ear pieces
together in pairs, right sides facing, and

3-9-/5 months

stitch along outer edges. Turn ears right
side out and machine-baste pleats on
inner ear pieces as marked on pattern.
Machine-baste ears to head piece as
marked on pattern. Stitch head pieces
together, right sides facing; leave neck
open. Turn head right Side out. Stuff head
lightly and machine-baste neck edges
together along seam allowances. Machine­
baste head to stomach piece, right sides
together.
Paws and tail: Pin paw pieces together
in pairs and pin also tail pieces together,
right sides facing, and stitch along outer
edges. Turn paws and tail right side out,

stuff them and machine-baste them to
stomach piece as marked on pattern.
joining: Pin stomach and back pieces
together, right sides facing, stitch along
outer edges and leave opening for turning
blanket right side out. Turn blanket right
side out and close opening by hand­
stitching.
Finishing: Shape paws by hand-stitching
using thick cotton yarn: stick needle
through layers of fur and wadding, pull
thread tight and secure stitching carefully.

Page 52

6
~

CUTTING
Join pattern pieces 4A and 4B before
cutting. Cut back and front panels from
faux fur and corduroy and reinforcing
pieces for seat belt slots from corduroy
as indicated on list of pattern pieces.
ABOUT DESIGN
The baby bunting can be used in a baby
carrier or stroller and in an infant car
seat. Check the position of the seat belts
on your infant car seat before making
the slots on the bunting.

MATERIALS
- 95-105-1 15 em corduroy
- 95-105-1 15 em cotton faux fu r
- 2 zippers, length 35-45-55 em
- 3 cm interfacing
- 3 snap fasteners

For embroidery:
- tear-away backing,Vlieseline®
Stickvlies
- water-soluble embroidery
stabilizer, Sulky® Solvy or
Vlieseline® Soluweb
- embroidery thread

9. Girl's blouse

INSTRUCTIONS
Interfacing: Cut pieces of interfacing
for snap areas on bunting back panel
(areas shaded in grey in small-scale
patterns) and fuse them in place to
corduroy back panel.
Compass and teddy-bear motif: Read
general instructions for embroidery on
p.44.Trace compass and teddy-bear motif
from pattern sheet and embroider it on
corduroy front panel with reinforced
straight stitch.
Front section: Machine-baste zippers
to corduroy front panel, right sides
together, as marked on pattern. Pin
corduroy and faux-fur front panels

together, right sides facing, and stitch
them together along zipper edges and
top edges. Clip seam allowances along
curves and turn front section right side
out. Machine-baste lower edges together
along seam allowances.
joining back and front section: Pin
front section to faux-fur back panel, fur
sides facing and notches aligned, and
machine-baste lower edges and zipper
edges together. Pin corduroy back panel
on top of front section and faux-fur back
panel attached to it,corduroy sides facing,
and stitch outer edges of back panels
together (catching in zipper edges at the
same time): leave opening in straight part
of seam for turning bunting right side
out. Clip seam allowances along curves.
turn bunting right side out and close
opening by hand-stitching.
Seat belt slots: Open zippers and mark
placements of seat belt slots on bunting's
back. Pin reinforcing pieces to fur-side of
bunting's back, right sides together. Stitch
rectangles in the middle of reinforcing
pieces as marked on pattern. Slash slots
as marked on pattern and cut diagonally
into corners. Turn reinforcing piece
through slot to corduroy side and top­
stitch edges of slot.Turn and pin seam

86-92-98-104-110-116-/22-128-134 em

4fJJ~.
;":7·

./~:'

s

f

cut

PATTERN PIECES
4 A+B back panel

I+ I

(faux fur+corduroy)
5 front panel
(faux fur+corduroy)
6 reinforcing piece for


I+ I
3

seat belt slot

£> compass applique


PATTERN SHEET

A

lilac

allowances at edges of reinforcing piece
under and stitch turned-under edges
carefully to bunting'S back.
Finishing: Attach snap fasteners. placing
stud halves to top-left edge on fur side
and socket halves to top-right edge on
corduroy side.

Pages 10-11,18-19

6~'
-~

oil·
.
:.

MATERIALS

- 60-60-65-70-75-75-85-90-95 cm
printed cotton (design A), fine
cord (design B) or similarfabric

~
~~i

i

:

~ ,I ' j UU l lU:'

n '::- :
!i

- 20 cm interfacing
- 4...5 buttons

[ ,
.....iilUUU!

"1

~I

if

4

:

l

.'.

:

j'---<:::::,

Cut garment pieces from fabric as
indicated on list of pattern pieces: add I
em seam allowances to all edges except
sleeve edges and cuff placket openings.
Patterns for binding strips" include seam
allowances.

INSTRUCTIONS
Seams are topstitched close to edge.
Preparation: Cut interfacings for upper
collar and front placket facings (areas
shaded in grey in small-scale patterns)
and fuse them to garment pieces. Finish
raw edges of front placket facings and
press folds on facings as marked on
pattern.
joining: Stitch 2 mm wide pin tucks to
front and back panels as marked on
pattern. Stitch and top stitch yoke seams.
Stitch and topstitch shoulder seams.
Sleeves: Finish cuff placket opening with

binding as follows: Stitch binding first to
wrong side of sleeve. Fold binding in half.
turn seam allowance under and topstitch
turned-under edge of binding to right
side of sleeve. Sew gathering stitches
along sleeve cap as marked on pattern.
Gather sleeves and stitch them to arm­
holes, aligning notches on sleeves and
along armholes. Fold seam allowances
toward garment and topstitch seams.
Stitch sleeve seams and side seams. Sew
gathering stitches at sleeve edges and
gather sleeve edges slightly.Finish sleeve
edges with binding in the same way as
cuff placket. with ends of binding strips
extending as tie strings.
Collar: Pin and stitch collar pieces
together. right sides facing.Trim and taper
seam allowances at corners, turn collar
right side out and topstitch its outer
edge. (Design B: Stitch decorative
stitching to outer edge of collar using
decorative stitch on home sewing

machine.) Pin and machine-baste collar
to neck edge, aligning ends of collar with
center front notches. Fold front placket
facings on top of collar, right sides to­
gether, pin neckline binding strip to neck
seamline and stitch neck edge. Clip seam
allowances along curves and turn front
corners right side out. Turn seam allow­
ance of neckline binding strip under, pin
turned-under edge to neck edge and
stitch it in place, starting from edge of
one placket facing and finishing at edge
of the other.
Hemline: Finish raw edge of hem. Fold
placket facings at front hemline to right
side, stitch bottom edge of facing to hem
edge and turn corners right side out.
Turn up and stitch bottom hem.
Finishing: Work buttonholes and sew
on buttons. Place top buttonhole on
front yoke as marked on pattern and the
rest at regular intervals (6... 7 em).

CD

:

~~
~~8

5«:-~

-

....•...

PATTERN PIECES

cut

I
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9

2
2
I
I
2
2
2
2
I

front yoke
front
back yoke
back
sleeve
collar
cuff placket binding*
sleeve-edge binding
neckline binding*

PATTERN SHEET

*

A turquoise
29

10. Ski rt

86-92-98-104-1 10-1 16-122-128-134-140-146-152 em

Pages I0- I I, 18- I9, 60-6 I

PATTERN PIECES

cut

I front yoke
I back yoke

I
I

2 skirt panel
3 pocket flap (A+B)
4 hemline trim (C)

I·u uu 4 u
CUTTING
Cut garment pieces from fabric as
indicated on list of pattern pieces; add I
em seam allowances to all edges.
Designs A and B: *If your fabric is
heavy-weight,cut pocket flap facings from
cotton.
Design C: Cut hemline trim from faux
fur.

MATERIALS
- 35-40-40-45-45-50-50-55-55­
60-65-75 em babycord (A),
width 145 em
- 35-40-40-45-45.55-70-75-75­
80-85-90 em stretch velveteen
(B) or double-face quilted fabric
(C), width 135 em
- 45 ... 60 cm elastic, width
25 mm

INSTRUCTIONS
In design A and B,seams are double­
topstitched, In design C, seams are top­
stitched using presser foot edge as guide.
Preparation, design B (stretch
velveteen): Cut pieces of stabilizing
tape for lower edges of yoke pieces and
fuse them in place to stop edges from
stretching: measure required lengths of
tape on pattern.
Front and back skirt sections: Stitch
three skirt panels together to construct
front skirt section and the other three
to construct back skirt section. On both
sections, fold seam allowances toward
center skirt panels and topstitch panel
seams.

(- piece of light-weight cotton
for pocket flap facings,
designs A and B*)

For design A also:
- 40 55 em beige taffeta ribbon
- 110 140 em rose-pink taffeta
ribbon
- pink topstitching thread

For design B also:
- 2 buttons.e 12 mm
- 75 ...95 em stabilizing tape,
Vlieseline® Formband

For design C also:
- 10 em soft faux fur

I I. Wool skirt

l·u]

Pocket flaps, designs A and B: Stitch
pocket flap pieces together in pairs along
their outer edges, right sides facing.Trim
and taper seam allowances at corners
and turn pocket flaps right side out.
Topstitch edges. Design A: Pin beige
taffeta ribbon to edges of pocket flap,
miter corners by folding ribbon and
pinning mitered folds in place, and stitch
both edges of ribbon to flap. Machine­
baste pocket flaps to top-edge seam
allowance of front skirt section, extending
side edge of flap 2 ... 3 em on top of
center skirt panel.
Joining: Stitch side seams on both skirt
section and yoke and press seams open.
Stitch yoke section to skirt section, fold
seam allowances toward yoke and
top stitch seam.
Waistline: Finish raw edge of waistline
and mark quarter points along waistline.
Measure and adjust elastic to fit child's
waist (length of elastic = child's waist
minus 7... 9 cm).Join ends of elastic to
form closed loop and mark it into
quarters. Pin and machine-baste edge
of elastic to wrong side of waistline along
outer edge of casing allowance, aligning
quarter point markings. Fold waist casing

PATTERN SHEET

wool or wool-blend fabric

CUTTING
Trace pattern for liningfrom skirt pattern;
note waistline of lining,and cut lining
2 em shorter than skirt (cutting line of
lining = foldline of skirt). Cut garment
pieces from wool and lining fabric as

indicated on list of pattern pieces.
INSTRUCTIONS
Joining: Finish raw edges of all pieces.
Stitch side seams of both skirt and lining
and press seams open. Pin skirt and lining
within one another, right sides facing,and
stitch waist seam.

Elasticized waist: Mark quarter points
along waist seam line. Measure and adjust
elastic to fit child's waist (length of elastic
= child's waist minus 7... 9 cm).Join ends

12. Three pretty dresses

of elastic to form closed loop and mark
it into quarters. Pin elastic to wrong side
of fashion-fabric skirt, align markings and
machine-baste elastic to skirt at markings.
Turn garment right side out, placing lining
inside skirt, wrong sides facing.Fold waist­
line casing along foldline. with elastic
within casing and seam allowances folded
toward lining,and pin casing in place.
Stitch waistline casing through all layers

in the middle of elastic and close to waist­

line seam; stretch elastic as you sew.


Hemline, designs A and B: Press and
sew skirt's hem (2 cm + I cm).(lf neces­
sary, sew easing stitches along edge of
hem and ease edge so that hem lies
smoothly against skirt.) Design B: Pin
rose-pink taffeta ribbon along hem on
top of stitching and stitch it in place with
decorative stitch.
Hemline, design C: Stitch ends of
hemline trim pieces together, right sides
facing. Finish one raw edge of trim. Pin
and stitch raw unfinished edge of trim
to skirt's hem, right sides together.
Fold finished edge of trim to wrong side
as marked on pattern, pin it in place
carefully and topstitch it to hem from
right side, by stitching-in-the-ditch along
previous seam.
Finishing, design B: Sew buttons on
pocket flaps as shown in design sketch.

Page 64

faux-fur trimmed knit with yak
border along one edge
- invisible zipper, length 25·25­
25-30-30-30-30-30-35-35 cm
- 15... 25 em stabilizing tape

30

cut

I a+b front

I
2
2

2 a+b back
3 sleeve
PATTERN SHEET

B

orange

cut

5 skirt panel
5 @ lining panel

2
2

PATTERN SHEET

B

blue

Hemline: Sew hem (I em + I cm) at
bottom edge of lining. Press skirt's hem
lightly through damp ironing cloth and
sew hem by hand with catchstitch. Stitch
small tacks to side seams at hem to
anchor lining to skirt. Make tack by
crocheting a row of chain stitches or by
making thread loop and covering it with

buttonhole stitches.


86-92-98-104-110-1 16-122-128-134-140-146 em

PATTERN PIECES

blue

sewing,

Pages 21,54
).

MATERIALS
Yak-border dress.:
- 90-95-100-105-110-110-115­
120-125-125-130 em

B

PATTERN PIECES

5

- 35-35-35-40-40-45-45-50-50-50-55-55-60-60-65 em
lining fabric
- 45 ... 65 em elastic.width 25 mm
CHOOSING CORRECT SIZE
Choose skirt size on the basis of child's
hip measurement and adjust length of
skirt according to child's height.

2

allowance and elastic to inside of garment
and stitch casing through all layers along
its lower edge and in the middle,
stretching elastic as you sew. Note that
heavy-weightfabrics require firmer elastic
because elastic is stretched more while

86-92-98-104-110-116-122-128-134-140-146-152-158-164-170 em
MATERIALS
- 40-40-40-45-45-50-50-55-55- 55-60-60-65-65-70 em

3+3
2+2

r


r

Yak dress
CUTTING
Cut garment pieces from knit as indicated
on list of pattern pieces; place front and
back hemlines along fur-trimmed edge
of knit, laying pattern pieces out so that
yak-border pattern is as balanced as
possible on front panel.

Cut also fur trims for neckline and sleeve
edges from the edge of knit fabric; meas­
ure required lengths on pattern and cut
trims out leaving enough of knit at their
edges for seam allowances.

INSTRUCTIONS
Preparation: Fuse stabilizing tapes to
front shoulder seam allowances; see p.
32. Stitch darts on shoulders and sleeves.
Stitch and topstitch shoulder seams.

Floral dress and Chinese-style dress

Invisible zipper and neckline: Open
invisiblezipper and press its coil flat with
point of iron to expose row of
perforation on zipper tape. Pin one half
of zipper to center back seamline, right
sides together. Stitch zipper in place using
zipper foot. Stitch along perforation and
Stop stitching just before slider. Pin and
stitch other half of zipper in place in the
same way.Close zipper and stitch center
back seam.

Stitch fur trim to neckline, right sides
together, and finish neckline seam allow­
ances together.Topstitch around neckline
using presser foot edge as guide.
Joining: Stitch fur trims to sleeve edges,
right sides together, finish seam allow­
ances together and topstitch sleeve edges
using presser foot edge as guide. Stitch
sleeves to armholes. Stitch sleeve seams
and side seams.

86-92-98-104-110-116-122-128-134-140-146 em

cut

PATTERN PIECES
MATERIALS
Design A, floral dress:

- 50-50-55-60-65-70-80-85-95-105­
I 10 cm patterned fine eord
- 30-30-30-35-35-35-35-35-35-40­
40 cm solid-colored fine cord
- 190... 230 cm velvet or taffeta
ribbon, width 10 mm
Design B, Chinese-style dress:
- 50-55-55-60-65-70-70-85-95-105­
I 10 cm patterned stretch

:£Is

~6
2a

la

velveteen

velveteen

For designs A and B also:

- r0 cm interfaci ng
- invisible zipper, length

25-25-25-30-30-30-30-35-35 cm
CUTTING
Patterns, designs A and B: Cut off
pattern pieces for front and back hem
panels from patterns for dress's front
and back, as well as pattern piece for
sleeve-edge panel from pattern for sleeve.
Design A: Cut front and back panels,
sleeves and shaped facingfrom patterned
fine cord and other garment pieces from
solid-colored fine cord as indicated on
list of pattern pieces.
Design B: Cut front and back panels,
yoke, sleeves and outer collar pieces
from patterned stretch velveteen as
indicated on list of pattern pieces. Cut
hem and sleeve-edge panels, shaped
facingsand inner collar pieces from solid­
colored stretch velveteen. Cut 20 cm
piece for buttons loops and 80 cm piece
for Chinese ball buttons from taffeta
ribbon.
INSTRUCTIONS
Design A, preparation: Cut interfacing
for neckline shaped facing and fuse it in
place.
Design B, preparation: Cut interfacings
for neckline shaped facing and outer
collar pieces and fuse them in place.

Design B, button loops and Chinese
ball buttons: Fold pieces of taffeta
ribbon in half lengthwise and topstitch
outer edges together. Cut both taffeta
ribbon strips into 4 pieces. Make Chinese
ball buttons with longer pieces of taffeta
ribbon following illustrated instructions
indicated below. Finally ease riobon loops
together, shaping them into ball.Stitch
ends of ribbon flat on top of each other
at underside of balland trim them, leaving
2 cm ends.
Pin shorter pieces of taffeta ribbon in
half and machine-baste these loops to
top-edge seam allowance of dress's front
panel as marked on pattern.
Design B, yoke seam: Stitch shaped
facing to top edge of dress's front panel,
right sides together, with button loops
in between. Clip seam allowance along
curves and fold shaped facing to inside.
Fold and pin shaped facing so that its
folded edge is slightlyvisible on right side
and topstitch edge by stitching-in-the­
ditch along seamline. Pin and stitch lower
edges of shaped facingand yoke together,
right sides facing. Pin yoke seam right
way up and machine-baste yoke and facing
together along armholes.
Pin and sew ball buttons on yoke,
positioning them to match with button

Design B:
a+b back
back hem panel
sleeve
sleeve-edge panel
4 shaped facing for neckline
5 yoke
6 shaped facing for yoke
7 ~ front
7 ~ front hem panel
8 outer collar
9 inner collar

2~
2~
3~
3~

- 25-25-25-35-35-35-35-35-35-40­
40 cm solid-colored stretch
- 290 .. ,330 em taffeta ribbon,
width 10 mm

Design A:
I ~ a+b front
I ~ front hem panel
2 ~a+b back
2 ~ back hem panel
3 ~ sleeve
3 ~ sleeve-edge panel
4 shaped facing for neckline

~:~~


loops. Thread buttons through loops.
Designs A and B, joining panels:
Stitch darts on shoulders and sleeves.
Stitch and topstitch shoulder seams.
Stitch hem panels to front and back
panels and sleeve-edge panels to sleeves,
right sides together. Fold seam allowances
upward and topstitch seams. Cut pieces
of velvet or taffeta ribbon, measuring the
length of hem panel seams. and stitch
them along both edges to hem panels
next to panel seams. Cut also ribbons
for sleeve-edge panels and stitch them
in place in the same way.
Design B, collar: Stitch collar pieces
together in pairs aiong outer edges, right
sides facing.Trim seam allowances and
turn collars right side out. Pin collar
pieces together so that edge of under
collar is slightly visible on right side and
topstitch edge of collar by stitching-in­
the-ditch along seamline. Stitch lower
edges of collar pieces together at the
same time. Machine-baste collars to neck
edge as marked on pattern.
Design A and B, neckline and
invisible zipper: Finish outer raw edge
of shaped facing. Pin shaped facing to
garment's neck edge, right sides together
(in design B,collars will be in between).

PATTERN SHEET

B

I
I

2
2
2
2
I

2
2
2
2
I

I
I
I
I
2

2

orange

Clip seam allowances along curves at
neckline. (Design B:Trim seam allowances
along collars.) Understitch neckline seam
allowances to shaped facing.
Open invisible zipper and press its coil
flat with point of iron to expose row of
perforation on Zipper tape. Pin one half
of zipper to center back seamline, right
sides together. Stitch zipper in place using
zipper foot. Stitch along perforation and
stop stitching just before slider. Pin and
stitch other half of zipper in place in the
same way.Close zipper and stitch center
back seam.
Pin and stitch ends of neckline shaped
facing to center back seam on top of
zipper, right sides together.Turn neckline
right side out and topstitch neck edge
close to edge (design A) or using presser
foot edge as guide (design B). Secure
shaped facing from wrong side with a
few hand stitches to shoulder seam
allowances.
Designs A and B, joining and
finishing: Stitch sleeves to armholes.
Stitch sleeve seams and side seams. Press
and stitch bottom and sleeve-edge hems.
Pin and stitch small bows of velvet or
taffeta ribbon to sleeves and hem as
shown in design sketch.

r··..· ··F..­

,
,,
,
,,
,

4

31

13. Girl's double-face quilted coat 86-92-98-104-110-116-122-128-134 em Pages 10-11
2

,

'"

:i

ur

INSTRUCTIONS
Preparation: Finish raw edges of pieces
cut from quilted fabric except hem edge
and edges to be finished with binding.
Prepare hanging loop; fold and press loop
strip in half lengthwise, wrong sides
together, turn seam allowances in and
topstitch along edges. Machine-baste
hanging loop to back neckline.

MATERIALS

- 90-95-100-105-110-1 15-120­
140-145 em double-face polyester
satinlfur-knit quilted fabric
- 55 em patterned cotton
- 125... 140 em taffeta or velvet
ribbon, width J 0 mm
- 4...5 shank buttons, " 20 mm

CUTTING
Cut binding strips and pocket facings
from cotton; note that patterns for
bindings include seam allowances. Cut
garment pieces 4-8 from quilted fabric
as indicated on list of pattern pieces; do
not add seam allowances to edges to be
finished with binding (i.e. sleeve edges.
hood's face edge and edge of front placket
facing).
Cut also 4 em x I0 em strip from cotton
for hanging loop.

Pockets: Cut two S em pieces from
taffeta ribbon. Fold pieces in half and
machine-baste them to bottom edges of
pockets as trims (placement marked with
notch). Stitch pocket pieces and pocket
facings together, right sides facing; leave
small openings for turning pocket sections
right side out.Trim and taper seam
allowances around corners and clip into
inward corners. Turn pockets right side
out and topstitch opening edges of
pockets. Pin and stitch pockets to front
panels as marked on pattern, closing
opening at the same time.
Joining: Stitch shoulder seams, press
seams open and topstitch them using
presser foot edge as guide. Stitch sleeves
to armholes and topstitch seams. Stitch
sleeve seams and side seams right sides
together from notch at sleeve edge until
notch at hem. Clip into seam allowances
at notches as far as seamline and stitch

14. Shirt for little boys

Hood: Stitch and topstitch back seam
of hood. Finish hood's face edge with
binding. Pin hood to garment neckline,
right sides together, aligning bottom
corners of hood with center front
notches. Fold front placket facings on
top of hood's neckline edges and stitch
neckline seam. Turn front corners at neck
right side out.
Finishing: Work buttonholes and sew
on buttons. Place topmost buttonhole
as marked on pattern and the rest at
6 ... 9 em intervals.

86-92-98-104-110-116-122 em

Cut garment pieces from fabric as indicat­
ed on list of pattern pieces. Patterns for
cuff placket underlap* and overlap*
include seam allowances; add I em seam
allowances to all edges of other pieces.

INSTRUCTIONS
Seams are topstitched close to edge.
Preparation: Cut interfacings for front
placket facings, upper collar, inside collar
stand, cuffs, pocket flaps and cuff placket
overlaps (areas shaded in grey in small­
scale patterns) and fuse them in place.
Pockets: Stitch bottom corners of

STABILIZING TAPE

Vlieseline® Formband

32

III
III
:::

-~i----------

8'----------­
I
I

I
I


~

I

III
III

:
I

III

I

!II
III

I

:::

I

r

(!7

3

!

PATTERN PIECES

cut

I sleeve-edge binding
2 binding for front

2

2

placket facing

3 hood-edge binding
4 hood
5 pocket

I
I

2+2

6 front
7 back
8 sleeve

2
I
2

PATTERN SHEET

B black

PATTERN PIECES

cut

I
2
3
4
5

2
I
I
2
I+ I

front
back
shoulder yoke
sleeve
collar
6 collar stand
7 cuff
8 cuff placket underlap*
9 cuff placket overlap"
10 pocket
I I pocket flap

MATERIALS

CUTTING

·
I
III

III

:1

Pages 58-59

- 70-75-80-85-90-95-95 em
cotton poplin, fine cord or
similar fabric
- 15 em interfacing
- 13... 15 buttons

1i

rest of seams wrong sides together.
Finger-press seams open.
Sleeve edges: Join ends of sleeve-edge
binding strips to form closed loops. Finish
sleeve edges with binding: stitch binding
to wrong side of sleeve edge, fold binding
in half and turn seam allowance under.
and topstitch turned-under edge of
binding to right side of sleeve edge.
Hemline: Fold up bottom hem and pin
and machine-baste it to right side of
garment. Stitch taffeta ribbon along both
edges on top of stitching. Finish edges of
front placket facings with binding in the
same way as sleeve edges. Turn front
placket facing to inside and stitch it to
front panel with a few hand stitches along
width of bottom hem.

6

PATTERN SHEET
pockets, right sides together. Hem
opening edges of pockets. Pin and stitch
pockets to front panels as marked on
pattern.
Fold pocket-flap pieces in half, right sides
together, and stitch side edges. Turn
pocket flaps right side out and topstitch
edges. Stitch flaps above pockets. Trim
seam allowances. fold flaps downward
and pin and topstitch in place, concealing
seam allowances.
Cuff plackets: Prepare cuff plackets
following illustrated instructions on p.
46.
Joining: Machine-baste pleat on back
panel as marked on pattern. Stitch front

and back panels to shoulder yoke, fold
seam allowances toward yoke and top­
stitch seams. Stitch sleeves to armholes
and topstitch seams. Stitch sleeve seams
and side seams. Fold front placket facings
along foldlines and press. Fold placket
facings at front hemline to right side,
stitch bottom edge of facing to hem edge
and turn corners right side OUt.Turn up,
pin and stitch bottom hem (I em + I
em). Stitch edges of front placket facings
to front panels.
Collar: Construct collar with a stand
following illustrated instructions on
pattern sheet D.
Cuffs: Fold pleats at sleeve edges and
To stabilize the shoulder seams. you
can use either narrow strips cut from
a knit or fabric in a non-stretch
direction or ready-made non-woven
fusible stabilizing tape
(Vlieseline® Formband).

2
2
2
2
2
2

C red

machine-baste them in place. Fold cuff
piece in half, right sides together, stitch
ends, and turn cuff right side out. Pin and
stitch one edge of cuff to sleeve edge.
with right side of cuff facing wrong side
of sleeve. Fold and pin Seam allowances
at other edge to inside of cuff, stitch cuff
edge to sleeve edge and topstitch around
cuff at the same time.
Finishing: Work buttonholes and sew
on buttons: place buttonholes on collar
stand, cuff plackets and cuffs as marked
on pattern, and on garment's front so
that topmost button is 3 em from neck
seamline and the rest at regular intervals
(6...8 em).

Measure the length of the shoulder
seam on the pattern. Add seam
allowances and cut required lengths
of stabilizing tape. Fuse or machine­
baste stabilizing tapes to wrong side
of back shoulder seam allowances.

I

r


15. Cargo pants and corduroy pants

86-92-98-104-1 10-1 16-122 em

Pages 14-17,58-59

'''~
~V~

PATTERN PIECES
I pants front
2 pants back
3 back yoke
4 pocket piece
4 ©> pocket facing
5 fly shield
6 waistband
7 back pocket (A+B)
8 back-pocket flap (A+B)
9 leg pocket (B)
10 leg-pocket flap (B)

cut

1'+.::

· ..-

2
2
2
2
2

rn
o
~~S
<6

5

I
I

8

2
2
2
2+2

,...... j..... ,,! MEl

PATTERN SHEET C

black

i ..... '1' ...

L=L:..::..:.:J - L I ..

h.

J ...... i

~

LjJ

MATERIALS
- 65-65-70-75-80-85-85 cm (A),
65-75-80-85-90-95-95 cm (B)
denim, cotton twill or outerwear
fabric (designs A and B)
- 70-70-75-80-85-90-95 cm
corduroy (C)

- 10 cm interfacing

- zipper, length 10-12-12-12-12­
15-15 cm
- I button
- 20, .. 25 cm light-weight cotton
for pocket facings


For designs A and B also:

- 85 ... 95 cm elastic cord

- 2 cord stoppers


For design B also:

- 8 cm Velcro tape, width 20 rnrn
ABOUT DESIGN
Pants pattern comes in two lengths: cargo
pants are slightly cropped and corduroy
pants have full-length legs. Cargo pants
design B have leg pockets.

CUTTING
Cut pocket facings from cotton and other
garment pieces from fashion fabric as
indicated on list of pattern pieces. Design
C: Note grainline of yoke.
Cut also:

Designs A and B: 3.5 em x 60 em strip

for cord loops and belt loops.

Design C: 3.5 em x 48 em strip for belt

loops.


INSTRUCTIONS
In design A and B,seams are double­
topstitched; in design C, seams are top­
stitched using presser foot edge as guide.
Preparation: Cut interfacings for areas
shaded in grey in small-scale patterns
and fuse them in place. Finish one long
raw edge of belt loop strip, fold and pin
strip in three. and double-topstitch in
the middle. (Designs A and B:Fuse pieces
of interfacing to wrong side of front
bottom legs in buttonhole area and work
buttonholes as marked on pattern.)
Front-hip pockets: Stitch pocket facing
to garment along pocket opening, right
sides together. Understitch seam allow­
ances to pocket facing.Turn pocket facing
to inside and topstitch pocket opening.
Pin pocket piece to pocket facing, right
sides together, and stitch bottom of
pocket. Machine-baste edges of pocket
to waistline and side seam allowances.
(Designs A and B, back pockets: Hem
opening edges of back pockets.Topstitch
pockets to pants backs as marked on
pattern. Fold pocket-flap piece in half
along foldiine, right sides together, and
stitch longer side edge.Turn pocket flap
right side out and topstitch edges. Place
pocket flaps above back pockets and
machine-baste them to side seam and
yoke seam allowances of pants back
panels.
Designs A and B, cord loops: Cut two
5.5 em pieces from belt loop strip for

cord loops. Fold pieces in half and
machine-baste them to side seam allow­
ances of pants front panels as marked
on pattern).
Joining: Stitch and topstltch yoke seams.
Stitch side seams. (Designs A and B:Top­
stitch side seams close to edge.) Finish
raw edges of crotch seam allowances.
(Design B, leg pockets: Cut Velcro
tape in half. each piece measuring 4 em.
Hem opening edges of pockets. Stitch
pieces of Velcro tape to pockets as
marked on pattern. Press folds on pocket
pieces as marked on pattern and edge­
stitch them. Press seam allowances at
side edges of pockets to wrong side and
fold pleats so that side edge of pocket
extends slightly beyond edgestitched fold
(allowance for stitching). Pin bottom
edges of pockets to pants legs, right sides
together, as marked on pattern and stitch
them in place. Fold pocket pieces right
way up and pin and topstitch their side
edges to pants legs. Pin pleats at top
corners of pockets and stitch them
through all layers to pants.
Pin pocket flap pieces together in pairs,
right sides facing,and stitch bottom edges
and sides.Trim and taper seam allowances
at corners and turn flaps right side out.
Press and topstitch edges. Stitch pieces
of Velcro tape to pocket flaps as marked
on pattern. Pin and stitch flaps above
pockets.)

seam 3...4 em down from Zipper placket
towards crotch.Apply zipper to placket,
following illustrated instructions for fly­
front zipper on pattern sheet C. Stitch
inseams and rest of crotch seam.
Belt loops: Cut strip into six pieces and
machine-baste belt loops to waistline,
right sides together, as shown in design
sketch. Leave pants inside out.
Waistline: Fold waistband in half,wrong
sides together, and press. Stitch inner
edge of waistband to wrong side of pants
waistline. Stitch center front ends of
waistband. Trim and taper seam allowan­
ces at corners and turn corners right
side OUt.Pin and stitch other edge of
waistband to right side of pants and top­
stitch around waistband. Stitch free ends
of belt loops to top edge of waistband,
Bottom edges of legs, designs A and
B: Press folds at bottom edges of legs.
Cut elastic cord in half.Thread cord first
through cord loop. Then thread both
ends of elastic cord through stopper and
buttonhole to inside of bottom legs.
Machine-baste ends of elastic cord to
inseam seam allowances, slightly above
fold. Pin and stitch casing at bottom edge
of leg, with elastic cord within casing.
Bottom edges of legs, design C: Sew
hem at bottom edge of leg.
Finishing: Work buttonhole and sew
button on waistband.

Zipper placket: Stitch front crotch

16.Anorak 86-92-98-104-110-116-122-128 em Pages 4,6-9

[3~

bi~,

CUTTING

5
2

LrJd~I'

B

&


W


MATERIALS

Design A, for print:

- 95-100-100-105-1 15-120-125­
double-face faux leatherlfur
(antique-finished for design A and
ribbon-embroidered for design B)
- I toothed zipper, length 15 em
- 2 toothed zippers, length 12 cm

- black fabric paint (GUtermann),
scalpel, plastic sheeting (e.g. plastic
pocket) or litho paper, disposable
plate, disposable spoon and piece
of sponge

PATTERN PIECES

cut

I front

I

2 back
3 front sleeve
4 back sleeve
5 hood center panel
6 hood side panel
7 pocket
§> compass motif

I
2
2

I
2
I

PATTERN SHEETC blue

Cut garment pieces from double-face
faux leatherlfur as indicated on list of
pattern pieces; add I em seam allowances
to edges of all pieces. Cut pieces from
single layer of fabric from leather side
using tips of sharp scissors and taking
care not to cut pile. Make sure when
cutting out pieces that nap runs down­
ward on them in order to produce neat
folded edges.

INSTRUCTIONS
General instructions for sewing
faux fur: Shave pile from seam and hem
allowances that will not be visible to
stop seams from becoming too bulky.
Use sharp heavy-duty sewing needle.
Hems are stitched with zigzag; push pile
out of the way of presser foot with your
finger as you sew and place stitching
close to edge. No seam finish is
necessary, with the exception of sleeve
edges.

33

-..J


~

Print, design A:
I. Trace compass motif on plastic sheeting
or litho paper and cut shaded parts of
motif out with scalpel.
2. Pour a small amount of paint on dis­
posable plate and dab sponge in it so
that paint gets evenly distributed on
sponge.
3. Place motif template on back panel
and dab small amount of fabric paint at
a time in cut-out with sponge.
4. Allow print to dry properly and fix it
to fabric by pressing, following directions
on paint container.As the surface offaux
fur does not withstand high iron
temperature, you can press motif through
teflon sheet or piece of baking sheet.
Zipper placket: Pattern markings for
placket opening are based on zipper with
15 em long and 6 mm wide chain of
teeth. Check measurements of your

17. Snow pants

zipper and alter pattern markings if
necessary.
Sew reinforcing stitching on front panel
around zipper placket as marked on
pattern. Slash placket opening, cutting to
reinforcing stitching at corners. Pin left
zipper tape to placket opening, right sides
together, placing it so that placket seam
allowance will be turned to wrong side
along reinforcing stitching. Stitch zipper
tape in place. Stitch right zipper tape in
place in the same way. Stitch triangular
wedge at bottom of placket to zipper
tapes from wrong side.
Pocket: Fold hem allowances at opening
edges of pocket to right side and stitch
close to edge with zigzag. Fold pocket's
seam allowances under and stitch pocket
to front panel as marked on pattern.
Hood: Stitch hood side panels to hood
center panel as follows: Stitch seam from

face edge to notch, placing fur sides to­
gether. Clip into seam allowances at notch
as far as seamline and stitch rest of seam
placing leather sides together. Fold hood's
face-edge hem to right side and stitch
close to edge with zigzag.
joining: Stitch top seams of sleeves, fur
sides together. Finger-press seams open
and topstitch edges of seam allowances
to sleeve with zigzag. Finish sleeve edges
with narrow zigzag.Stitch sleeves to front
and back panels (= raglan seams). Stitch
underarm seams and side seams until
notches for side vents.
Stitch hood to neckline, right sides to­
gether: before stitching neckline seam,
fold back zipper-placket seam allowances
with zipper tapes on top of neckline
corners of hood.Turn zipper placket right
way out and topstitch edges of zipper
placket and neckline seam using presser

86-92-98-104-110-116-122-128 em
CUTTING
Shell: Cut knee patch from moisture­
proof fabric and other garment pieces
from outerwear fabric* as indicated on
list of pattern pieces.
lining: Cut lining pieces from quilted
liningfabric as indicated on list of pattern
pieces:

MATERIALS
-70-75-80-85-90-100-105-1 fO em
outerwear fabric
- 20... 25 em moisture-proof fabrfc
- 60~65-70-70-75-80-85-90 em
quilted lining fabric
- 45 ... 55 em elastic for waist,

width 20 mrn
- topstitching thread

Bottom edges of legs: Press hems at
bottom leg edges of shell as marked on
pattern. Pin bottom leg edges of lining

within hems on shell and sew hems
(2 em + I em).

PATTERN PIECES

cut

Outerwear [aoric
I pants front
2 bottom leg panel, front

2

2

3 pants back

2
2
2
2
2

4 bottom leg panel, back
5 pocket piece

5 @ pocket facing
I

@

knee patch"

Quilted lining fabric

2

6 pants front
7 pants back

PATTERN SHEET

18. Girl's wool-blend coat 86-92-98-104-110-116-122-128-134 em Pages

2

C

green

Ii
I

PATTERN PIECES

wadi-blend fabric

- 80-85-90-95-95-105-1 10-1 15­

\.15 ern lining fabric
70 ern interfacing

- 60
-4

5 buttons, 0 20 mm

For applique:

- scraps of pale blue, red and grey

felted wool fabric
- embroidery threads
- double-sided interfacing,
Vliesel ine® Vliesofix
- tear-away backing.
Vlieseline® Stickvlies
- Sulky Solvy® or
Vlieseline® Soluweb

i

Sleeve edges: Fold sleeve-edge hem
allowances to right side and secure hems
at sleeve seams with a few hand stitches.

joining lining: Stitch inseams and crotch
seam. Stitch side seams.

joining shell: Stitch and topstitch side
seams of pants panels and bottom leg
panels. Stitch bottom leg panels to pants
panels, right sides together. Pin and press
pleat on bottom leg as marked on pattern

MATERIALS
-100-110-115-120-125-130-135­
145-150 em lightly-felted

J

and topstitch pleat through all layers
along seamline. Stitch inseams. Stitch
crotch seam.

Front-hip pockets: Stitch pocket facing
to garment along pocket opening, right
sides together. Understitch seam allow­
ances to pocket facing.Turn pocket facing
to inside and topstitch pocket opening.
Pin pocket piece to pocket facing, right
sides together, and stitch bottom of
pocket. Machine-baste edges of pocket
to waistline and side seam allowances.

Preparation: Pin knee patches to wrong
side of pants front panels and stitch them
to side seam allowances. Stitch decorative
stitching to knees and right-hand pocket
opening as marked on pattern.

Bottom hem and side vents: Fold
bottom hem allowances at front and
back to right side and stitch hems close
to edge with zigzag. Stitch one zipper
tape to edge of side vent, right sides to­
gether, and clip into seam allowance at
the top of vent. Stitch other zipper tape
in place in the same way.Stitch triangular
wedge at the top of vent to end of zipper,
right sides together. Fold ends of zipper
tapes at bottom hem inside and topstitch
edges of vent using presser foot edge as
guide.

Pages4,6

Waistline: Pin shell and lining within
one another, right sides facing, and stitch
waist seam. Measure and adjust elastic
to fit child's waist (length of elastic =
child's waist minus 7...9 cm).Join ends of
elastic to form closed loop and mark it
into quarters. Pin elastic to wrong side
of pants shell, aligning quarter point
markings with center front, center back
and side seams, and machine-baste elastic
to pants shell at markings. Turn pants
right side out and place lining inside shell,
wrong sides facing. Fold waistline casing
along foldline, with elastic within casing
and seam allowances folded toward lining,
and pin casing in place. Stitch waistline
casing through all layers in the middle of
elastic and close to waistline seam; stretch
elastic as you sew.

INSTRUCTIONS

foot edge as guide.

cut

Wool-blend [aerie
6&ont
6 @ front facing
7bKk
8 sleeve
9 hood side panel
10 hood top panel
I I pocket
J 2 hood facing

2
I
2
2
I
2
2

6 ~ front

2

7 ~ back
8 ~ sleeve

I
2

9

hood side panel

2

I 0 ~ hood top panel
II iN: pocket

I
2

©; appliques

PATTERN SHEET

7

2

Lining fabric

iN:

:

8

I+ I

B black

34

_____________J

I
CUTTING

Garment and front facings: Trace

pattern for front facing from pattern for

coat's front panel. Cut garment pieces

and front facings from wool fabric as

indicated on list of pattern pieces.

Lining: Trace pattern for front lining

from pattern for coat's front panel. Note

that lining is cut along pattern foldlines

at front and back bottom hem and at

sleeve-edge hems.Trace pattern for hood

liningfrom pattern for hood.

Cut lining pieces from lining fabric as

indicated on list of pattern pieces. Cut

also 4 em x 10 em strip from liningfabric

for hanging loop.

INSTRUCTIONS

Seams are topstitched using presser foot

edge as guide.

Preparation: Cut interfacings for areas

shaded in grey in small-scale patterns

and fuse them in place.

Appliques: Read general instructions

for applique on p.44.Trace flower motifs

from pattern sheet and cut them out

from scraps of felted wool fabric. Fuse

motifs to garment's back panel and right-


I9. Bean ie hat

hand pocket piece using double-sided
interfacing. Stitch edges of motifs with
zigzag or decorative stitches available on
your sewing machine.
Pockets: Stitch pocket piece and pocket
facing together along opening edge. right
sides facing; leave small opening in seam
for turning pocket section right side out.
Fold pocket section in half along foldline,
right sides together, and stitch its side
edges. Turn pocket section right side out,
press it through damp ironing cloth and
close opening by hand-stitching, Pin
pockets to front panels and topstitch
them in place using presser foot edge as
guide.
joining garment: Stitch and topstltch
shoulder seams. Stitch sleeves to arm­
holes and topstitch seams. Stitch sleeve
seams and side seams.
Hood: Stitch and topstitch back seam
of hood. Stitch top panel to side panels,
fold seam allowances toward side panels
and topstitch seams. Construct hood
liningin the same way without topstitch­
ing.Pin and stitch hood facing pieces to­
gether, right sides facing,and press seam
open. Stitch hood facing to hood lining,

50-52-54-56 em

right sides together, and understitch seam
allowances to hood liningclose to edge.
Place and pin hood sections within one
another, right sides together, and stitch
face edges together. Turn hood right side
out and topstitch along face edge, using
presser foot edge as guide. Machine­
baste lower edges of hood sections to­
gether. Pin and stitch hood to garment
neckline, right sides together, aligning
bottom front corners of hood with
center front notches.
joining lining: Fold and machine-baste
small pleat on front panel as marked on
pattern. Stitch front facings to front
panels. Stitch shoulder seams. Stitch
sleeves to armholes. Stitch sleeve and
side seams; leave opening in one side
seam for turning coat right side out.
Prepare hanging loop and machine-baste
it to back neckline.
Intermediate press: Press seams on
both liningand garment carefully before
continuing. Press garment's bottom and
sleeve-edge hems. Turn both garment
and lining inside out.
joining garment and lining: Pin and
stitch lining to garment at hem, right

(head circumference)

Pages 5,

"'CD

sides together. Pin and stitch front edges
and necklines of garment and lining to­
gether, right sides facing. with hood in
between garment and lining (note bottom
hem of garment when joining front
edges). Clip neckline seam allowances
along curves.
At this stage, coat is inside out, and
sleeves and sleeve linings hang separately.
Bring sleeve edges of garment and lining
end to end, line up edges and pin them
together, right sides facing, and stitch
(note that sleeve and sleeve lining are
not placed within one another).Turn coat
right side out through opening in lining's
side seam.
Finishing: Pull sleeve edges out one at
a time through opening in lining's side
seam and sew sleeve-edge hems by hand
with catch stitch. Stitch bottom hem in
the same way. Close opening on lining.
Press coat carefullythrough damp ironing
c1oth.Topstitch front edges using presser
foot edge as guide.
Work buttonholes and sew on buttons;
place topmost buttonhole as marked on
pattern and the rest at 6... 9 em intervals.

PATTERN PIECES

MATERIALS

Design A

I crown top
2 crown side

Design A:


~~

CUTTING

<.

- 30-35-35-35 cm boucle knit

- 25 cm lining fabric

Design B:
- 30-35-35-35 cm double-face faux
leather/fur

.... .

Trace pattern pieces from pattern sheet
and copy all notches accurately on them.
Design A: Cut crown top panel and
crown side panel both from boucle knit
and lining fabric, and roll-Up brim from
boucle knit.
Design B: Cut all pieces from faux
leather/fur,

20. Fu r hat

INSTRUCTIONS
Design A
Hat exterior: Stitch center back seam
of crown side panel. Stitch crown side
panel to crown top panel, matching
notches. Stitch center back seam of roll­
up brim. Fold brim in half, wrong sides
together. Machine-baste brim to lower
edge of hat, right sides together.

50-52-54-56 em

(head circumference)

I

!

:

~l

panel

[~3


3 roll-up brim

age 2-4-6-8 years

MATERIALS

double-face faux leather/fur


Hat: Cut hat pieces one at a time from
single layer of fabric as indicated on list
of pattern pieces; add I em seam allow­
ances to edges of all pieces.
Mittens: Cut mitten pieces one at a
time from Single layer of leather/fur as
indicated on list of pattern pieces. Pattern
pieces for mittens include seam allow­
ances.

Hat
Seams are topstitched using presser foot
edge as guide.
joining: Stitch crown panels together
first in pairs, leather sides facing,finger­
press seams open and topstitch along
edges of seam allowances using presser­
foot edge as gulde. Stitch crown halves
together in the same way.
Fold I em hem at lower edge of ear flap
panel to leather side and stitch it with
narrow zigzagclose to edge of hem allow­
ance. Pin and stitch ear flap panel to
lower edge of crown, leather sides facing.
Fold seam allowances toward ear flap
panel and topstitch seam using presser
foot edge as gUide.
Peak: Fold I em hem at edge of peak to

I

0

lilac

Design B
Stitch center back seam of crown side
panel. Stitch crown side panel to crown
top panel,matching notches. Stitch center
back seam of roll-up brim,fur sides facing.
Fold brim in half,leather sides facing.
Machine-baste brim to lower edge of
hat, fur sides facing. Roll brim up along
foldline.

Pages 4,6-7

- 45-45-50-55 cm


INSTRUCTIONS

Design B
I

I+ I

PATTERN SHEET

Lining: Stitch center back seam of crown
side panel. Stitch crown side panel to
crown top panel, leaving small opening
in seam for turning hat right side out.
joining hat exterior and lining: Place
and pin hat exterior and lining within
one another, right sides facing,and stitch
lowe,' edge of hat, with brim in between.
Turn hat right side out and close opening
by hand-stitching. Roll brim up along
foldline.

Mittens

I+ I

cut

leather side and stitch it with narrow
zigzag close to edge of hem allowance.
Stitch peak to lower edge of crown, fur
sides facing, trim seam allowances and
shave pile from seam allowances. Fold
peak up and topstitch along its lower
edge, using presser foot edge as guide.
Tie strings: Shave pile from tie strings
using sharp scissors. Fold tie strings in
half,fur sides facing, and topstitch edges
together. Stitch tie strings to ear flaps as
marked on pattern.
Mittens
joining: Stitch palm and cuff pieces to­
gether, leather sides facing, and trim seam
allowances. Pin back of hand to palm
and cuff,fur sides facing,and stitch close
to edge. Finish outer edges and cuffedges
with narrow zigzag.

0~rw[JJl&

==~---==:J4

PATTERN PIECES

cut

Hat
I crown panel
2 ear flaps

4

I


3 peak
4 tie string*

2


Mittens

5 back of hand
6 palm
7 cuff

2

2

2


PATTERN SHEET

I


8

green

* Pattern for tie string includes
seam allowances.
35

~------21. Stretch velvet blouse

I

116-122-128-134-140-146-152-158-164-170 em

Pages 55,57,62-63

c

Cut garment pieces from knit as indicated
on list of pattern pieces.

MATERIALS
-65-65-75-100-105-1 10-115-120­
120-125 cm tie-dyed stretch velvet
(A), silver-printed velour knit (6)
or solid-colored velour knit (C)
- invisible zipper, length 15 cm
- 20 ... 25 cm interfacing,
Vlieseline G 785
- 20 ... 30 cm stabilizing tape,
Vlieseline® Formband

For design C also:
- double-sided interfacing,
Vlieseline®Vliesofix
- tear-away backing,Vlieseline®
Stickvlies
- silver-grey embroidery thread
- 28 small beads

INSTRUCTIONS
Stitch bottom hem and sleeve-edge hems
with serger coverstitch or on regular
sewing machine using e.g. double-needle,
multiple zigzag or honeycomb stitch.
Preparation: Fuse stabilizing tapes to
back shoulder seam allowances; see p.
32. Cut interfacing for shaped facing and
fuse it in place. Finish outer raw edge of
shaped facing as well as raw center-back
edges and edges of sleeve-top seam allow­
ances. Stitch darts on back panels. Stitch
shoulder seams.
Embroidery, design C: Read general
instructions for embroidery on p.44.
Trace embroidery motifs from pattern
sheet and embroider them on front
sleeves and front panel with reinforced
straight stitch. Attach beads with hand

22. Furry fleece jacket

116-122-128-134-140-146-152-158-164-170 em

CUTTING
Cut garment pieces from knit as indicated
on list of pattern pieces. Add I cm seam
allowances to edges of all pieces.
INSTRUCTIONS
Seams are topstitched using presser foot
edge as guide.
Preparation: Fuse stabilizing tapes to
back shoulder seam allowances; see
p.32.
Tie strings: Cut two 32 cm pieces from
satin bias tape for tie strings. Turn seam
allowance at one end of bias tape in, pin
tape in half lengthwise and topstitch
edges together. Machine-baste tie strings
to front panels as marked on pattern,
right sides together.
Joining: Stitch darts on back panels.
Stitch and topstitch shoulder seams.
Stitch sleeve-top seams. Stitch sleeves to
armholes and topstitch seams. Stitch
sleeve underarm seams and side seams.

MATERIALS
- 70-75-85-105- f 15-125-130-130­
135-140 cm furry fleece
- 145-155-160-170-175-185-195­
200-210-215 cm single-fold satin
bias tape, width 15 mm
- 20 ... 30 cm stabilizing tape,
Vlieseline® Formband
- 90 ... 110 cm light-weight cotton
lace, width 25 mm

23. Dress pants and belt

A~

B

stitches.
Neckline and zipper: Pin and stitch
shaped facing to garment neckline, right
sides together. Clip seam allowances
along curves at neckline. Understitch
neckline seam allowances to shaped
facing.
Open invisible zipper and press its coil
flat with point of iron to expose row of
perforation on zipper tape. Pin one half
of zipper to center back seam line, right
sides together. Stitch Zipper in place using
zipper foot. Stitch along perforation and
stop stitching just before slider. Pin and
stitch other half of zipper in place in the
same way.Close zipper and stitch center
back seam.
Pin and stitch ends of neckline shaped
facing to center back seam on top of
Zipper,right sides together.Turn neckline
facing to inside. Secure shaped facing
from wrong side with a few hand stitches
to shoulder seam allowances. Designs A

cut

I
2
3
4
5

I
I
2
2
2

@

front
shaped facing for neckline
back
front sleeve
back sleeve
embroidery motifs (C)

PATTERN SHEET

red

and CTopstitch around neckline using
presser foot edge as guide.
Joining: Stitch sleeve-top seams until
notches for sleeve-edge vents. Stitch
sleeves to armholes. Stitch sleeve under­
arm seams and side seams. Press and
stitch bottom and sleeve-edge hems.Turn
seam allowances at sleeve-edge vents to
wrong side and sew hems at edges.

Pages 62-63

Stitch ends of satin bias tape together,
right sides facing. Pin and stitch one edge
of bias tape to edge of jacket, with right
side of tape facing wrong side of frill;
stretch bias tape slightly along curves.
Topstitch other edge of bias tape carefully
to jacket.
Sleeve edges: Cut lace in half and join
ends of both pieces to form closed loops.
Sew gathering stitches at edges of lace
and gather lace frills to fit sleeve edges.
Stitch lace frills to sleeve edges, right
sides together, finish seam allowances
together and topstitch sleeve edges using
presser foot edge as guide.

MATERIALS
- 80-80-85-90-95-95-100-105- [ 10­
125 cm wool-blend fabric, stretch
velveteen or similar fabric.
- 55 .. .70 cm elastic, width 25 mm
- 15 cm solid-colored felted
woof-blend fabric
- 15 cm cotton poplin for belt facing
- 250 ...320 cm taffeta ribbon,
width 10 mm
- embroidery thread

Design B:
- 45 cm taffeta ribbon, width 10 mm

cut

PATTERN PIECES
3
4
5
6
7
8

I
2

back
front sleeve
back sleeve
front frill
back frill
front

PATTERN SHEET

(A) 116-122-128-134-140-146-152-158-164-170 em
C

0

Frill edge: Sew gathering stitches at one
edge of both front and back frill strips
and gather frillsto fit front edges + neck­
line and back hem edge. Stitch ends of
front and back frills together, right sides
facing. Finish raw edge of frill and sew
narrow hem at it. Pin and machine-baste
frill to jacket, right sides together.

Design A, for belt:

36


PATTERN PIECES

2
2
I

2

0

red

Pages 55,57,62-63

- 54 cm velvet ribbon, width 10 mm
- 34 cm velvet ric rac braid
- 70 cm light-weight cotton lace,
width 25 mm

Design C:
- 35 cm raw silk or other fabric
different from fashion fabric for
pockets
- 35 cm lining fabric for pockets
- 65 ... 70 cm taffeta ribbon,
width 10 mm
- embroidery threads
- tear-away backing,
VJieseline® Stickvlies

r


r

3

C;:;..----.--;

ABOUT DESIGN

~


21A. I+::+::
~

+:
B

~

~

21B

Pockets: Embroider flower motifs on
silk pocket pieces in the same way as
on pants front panels. Stitch decorative
stitching at edges of pocket piece.

Pants are slightly cropped with fitted
elasticized waist. Choose pattern size
on the basis of child's hip measurement
and, if necessary, adjust waist width and
leg length of pattern to correspond to
child's measurements.

Cut taffeta ribbon in half and machine­
baste pieces to top corners of silk pocket
pieces as marked on pattern. Stitch one
side edge of each silk pocket and pocket
lining. Pin silk pocket and pocket lining
together. right sides facing, and stitch
top edges together. Understitch seam
allowances to pocket lining.Turn and pin
pockets right way out and stitch them
to side seam allowances of pants front
panels as marked on pattern.

CUTTING
Cut garment pieces from fashion fabric

as indicated on list of pattern pieces;

add I em seam allowances to edges of

all pieces.

Design A: Cut belt piece from wool

fabric and belt facing from poplin.

Design C: Cut pocket pieces both from

silk and lining fabric.


All designs, joining: Stitch inseams.
Stitch crotch seam. Stitch side seams.
Apply elastic to waist following instruc­
tions for design no. 10,Skirt. Finish raw
edges of bottom legs and press and sew
hems at them.

INSTRUCTIONS

PATTERN PIECES

cut

I pants front

2

2 pants back
3 belt (A)
4 pocket (C)

2
I+ I
2+2

PATTERN SHEET

24. Sh i rt

D

black

Preparations, design C:
Embroidery: Read general instructions
for embroidery on p. 44. Trace flower
motifs from pattern sheet and embroider
them on pants front panels with short
zigzag.When embroidering petals, adjust
width of zigzag from narrow to wide
and back to narrow, or use embroidery
stitches on your sewing machine.

128-134-140-146-152-/58-164-170 em

Design B, bows: Cut taffeta ribbon and
velvet ribbon into six pieces. Stitch ends
of each velvet ribbon piece together and
fold ribbon pieces into small bows. Tie
pieces of taffeta ribbon in the middle of
bows. Stitch bows to pants side seams,
placing lowest bow B... 10 em from

Pages 56,58-59

" ,--------,
L-------i

~

6~

~GJ
~



4

j'1

8~ rn

9'

7k----------··J
F1

lOW

• I 00-1 05-1 10- I 25- 135-140- 145­
150 cm cotton poplin (A) or
fine cord (B)
- 10 cm interfacing
- 13... 15 buttons
For print, design B:
- black fabric paint (Gutermann),
scalpel, plastic sheeting (e.g,plastic
pocket) or litho paper; disposable
plate, disposable spoon and piece
of sponge

25.Wool pants

CUTTING
Cut garment pieces from fabric as indi­
cated on list of pattern pieces. Patterns
for cuff placket underlap* and overlap*
include seam allowances. Note grainline
of shoulder yoke in design B.
INSTRUCTIONS
Preparation: Follow instructions for
design no. 14.
Pockets, design A: Follow instructions

- 100- J 05-1 10-1 10-125-1 30-130­
135 cm wool or wool-blend fabric
- 30 ... 35 cm cotton poplin for
pocket facings and waistband
- 5 cm interfacing
- zipper, length 15 cm
- I button, l2J 14 mm
- pants hook and eye
- 95 ... 105 em petersham ribbon,
width 20 mm

iim 2m

Pants have two-piece waistband, with
fashion-fabric on the outside and poplin
as facing.Waistband facing is stabilized

with piping in the middle and binding at


cut

I front
2 back
3 shoulder yoke
4 sleeve
5 collar
6 collar stand
7 cuff
8 cuff placket underlap*
9 cuff placket overlap*
10 pocket (A)
I I pocket flap (A)
12 pocket (B)

PATTERN SHEET

2
I

I

2
I+I
2
2

2
2
2

2
2

E black

careful when printing on pockets, dabbing
small amount of fabric paint at a time.
Experiment printing on a piece of scrap
material before starting!

Cuff plackets, joining, collar and
cuffs: Follow instructions for design no.
14.

Finishing: Work buttonholes and sew
on buttons: place buttonholes on collar
stand, cuff plackets and cuffs as marked
on pattern, and on garment's front so
that topmost button is 4 em from neck
seamline and the rest at regular intervals
(7...9 em).

Print: Trace horse motif from pattern
sheet in two parts and print motifs on
shirt front panels, following print instruc­
tions for design no. 16. Be especially

CF

Pages 56,58-59

=I4.

PATTERN PIECES

cut

pants fro nt
pants back
back yoke
pocket piece
Ii§> pocket facing
fly shield
waistband
7·~ waistband facing

2
2
2

I
2
3
4
4
5
6

PATTERN SHEET
ABOUT DESIGN

Belt, design A: Cut taffeta ribbon in
half. Stitch ribbons to top and bottom
edges of outer belt piece with decorative
stitch as marked on pattern, with ends
of ribbons extending as tie strings. Pin
and stitch belt piece and belt facing piece
together, right sides facing, and leave
small opening in seam for turning belt
right side out. Turn belt right side out
and close opening by hand-stitching.
Topstitch around belt using presser foot
edge as guide.

for design no. 14.
Pockets, design B: Hem opening edge
of pocket. Stitch pockets to front panels
as marked on pattern.

128-134-140-146-152-158-164-170 em
MATERIALS

Design B, lace and ric rae braid
trims: Cut lace and ric rae braid in half;
cut one corner at each end of lace pieces
in rounded wedge shape. Sew gathering
stitches along one edge and rounded
ends of each lace piece and gather edges
by gently pulling on bobbin threads until
they are slightly shorter than ric rae
braid pieces. Pin lace to ric rac braid and
stitch trims to bottom edges of legs; see
pattern markings on the smallest-size
pattern.

PATTERN PIECES

"",

MATERIALS

bottom edge of leg and the rest
6 ... B em apart from each other.

L~

l

rn

~3

2

2
I

iA

2A

11$

28

I
1+1

E

green

its edge like in men's pants. Fashion-fabric
waistband piece is folded back at button­
end of waistband to form facing of
waistband extension.

~
37

J

~~=CUTTING
Cut up pattern for waistband facing into
two and cut facing pieces out from poplin.
Cut pocket facings from poplin.Cut other
garment pieces from fashion fabric as
indicated on list of pattern pieces. Add
I cm seam allowances to edges of all
pieces (except outer curved bottom
edge of waistband facing).
Cut also:
- 3 cm wide piping strip and 2.5 cm wide
binding strip from poplin for waistband
facing; measure required lengths on
pattern for waistband facing.
- 3 cm x 48 cm strip from fashion fabric
for belt loops.
INSTRUCTIONS
Seams are topstitched using presser foot
edge as guide.
Preparation: Cut interfacingfor fashion­
fabric waistband piece and fuse it in place
(area shaded in grey in small-scale
patterns).Trace markings for creases on

26. Apron

pants legs from pattern and press creases
through dampened ironing cloth.
Front-hip pockets: Stitch pocket facing
to garment along pocket opening, right
sides together. Understitch seam
allowances to pocket facing.Turn pocket
facing to inside and topstitch pocket
opening. Pin pocket piece to pocket
facing, right sides together, and stitch
bottom of pocket. Machine-baste edges
of pocket to waistline and side seam
allowances.
Joining: Stitch and topstitch yoke seams.
Stitch inseams and crotch seam. It is
advisable to sew two rows stitching close
to each other at crotch seam in order
to reinforce it.Apply zipper to placket,
following illustrated instructions for f1y­
front zipper on pattern sheet C. Stitch
side seams.
Belt loops: Finish one long raw edge of
belt loop strip, fold and pin strip in three,
and topstitch close to edges. Cut strip
into six pieces and machine-baste belt

loops to waist seam line, right sides
together, as shown in design sketch.
Waistband facing: Fold piping piece in
half,wrong sides together. and press. Pin
piping strip between waistband facing
pieces and stitch seam. Fold seam
allowances upward and topstitch seam.
Finish bottom edge of waistband facing
with binding as follows: Stitch right side
of binding to wrong side of waistband
facing. Fold binding to right side, turn
seam allowance under and topstitch close
to edge.
Waistband: Stitch narrower end of
waistband facingto button-end of fashion­
fabric waistband piece, right sides
together. Pin waistband and waistband
facing together, right sides facing, and
stitch along top edge. Understitch seam
allowances to waistband facing.
Stitch bottom edge of fashion-fabric
waistband to right side of pants waistline.
Place ends of waistband pieces right sides
together and stitch right-hand end and

86-92-98-1 04-11 0-116-122-128-134-140-146-152-158-164-170 em
~--l

3

GJ:s:

!

BJi
MATERIALS
- 50-55-55-60-65-65-70-70-75-75­
80-85-85-90 cm cotton poplin,
cotton twill or similar medium­
weight cotton fabric
- I button e 20 mm
- piece of interfacing
For applique:
- scraps of cotton or satin fabric
in various colors
ooume-srceo interfacing,
tear-away backing,Vlieseline@
embrc)irl,'rv threads

CUTTING
Cut garment pieces from fabric as
indicated on list of pattern pieces. Add
I cm seam allowances to all edges of
pieces.
INSTRUCTIONS
Preparation: Cut interfacing for top
front edge of apron panel (area shaded
in grey in small-scale patterns) and fuse
it in place.
Pockets: Hem opening edges of pockets.
Stitch pockets to apron as marked on
pattern.
Chest pocket, design B: Hem opening
edge of pocket. Stitch pocket to apron

27. Cross-back apron

PATTERN SHEET

- piece of interfacing
- 175-185-195-205-220-210­
240 em orange, 105... 125 cm red
and 30 ... 35 ern green single-fold
bias tape, width 20 mm

I

apron
neck strap
tie string
pocket (A)
pocket (B)
chest pocket (B)

I
2
2
2
I

B

red

Outer edges: Sew narrow hems at
apron's curved edges. Press and sew hem
at top front edge of apron, with end of
neck strap within hem. Sew narrow hems
at sides and bottom hem of apron, with
ends of tie strings within hems. Fold neck
strap and tie strings into position and
topstitch them to apron close to edge.
Finishing: Work buttonhole at top front
edge of apron and sew button on neck
strap as marked on pattern.
Applique: Read general instructions for
applique on p. 44, trace motifs from
pattern sheet and applique them on
apron.

cut

I front
2 back
3 pocket

MATERIALS

cut

Page 19

PATTERN PIECES

- 50-55-60-65-65-70-75
yellow and 20 cm x 20 cm pieces
of red and green cotton poplin
or cotton twill
- 2 buttons, e 18 mm

I
2
3
4
5
6

PATTERN SHEET

and sew topstitching on it as marked on
pattern.
Neck strap: Press folds on neck strap
as marked on pattern. Fold strap in half,
turn seam allowances under and topstitch
turned-under edges together. Topstitch
other edge of neck strap. Machine-baste
unfinished end of neck strap to apron's
top-edge seam allowance as marked on
pattern, right sides together.
Tie strings: Sew narrow hems at long
edges and one end of each tie string
piece. Machine-baste unfinished ends of
tie strings to apron's seam allowances as
marked on pattern, right sides together.

86-92-98-104-1 10-1 16-122 em

Pages 18-21

PATTERN PIECES

2

LEJI

left-hand bottom edge of waistband.Trim
and taper seam allowances at corners
and turn waistband right side out.
Pin bottom edge of waistband facing to
pants waist and stitch-in-the-ditch along
waist seamline from right side. Stitch free
ends of belt loops to top edge of
waistband.
Bottom edges of legs: Finish raw
bottom edges of pants legs. Cut peters­
ham ribbon in half and join ends of both
pieces to form closed loops. Pin one
edge of petersham ribbon to bottom
edge of leg close to lowest foldline and
stitch. Fold bottom leg along center
foldline, wrong sides together, and press
fold. Pin fold to wrong side and stitch
other edge of petersham ribbon to pants.
Fold turn-up to right side and press.
Secure turn-up in place at inseam and
side seam with hand stitches.
Finishing: Work buttonhole and sew
button on waistband as marked on
pattern and sew hook and eye to inside
of waistband above zipper.

I
2
I+ I

0

orange

CUTTING
Cut front and back panels from yellow
fabric and pockets from red and green
fabric. Only add seam allowances to side
seams, shoulders and edges of pockets.
INSTRUCTIONS
Preparation: Fuse small pieces of
interfacing to front and back shoulders
under button and buttonhole placements.
Pockets: Hem opening edges of pockets.
Double-topstitch pockets to front panel
as marked on pattern.

Joining: Stitch side seams. Press and sew
hems at shoulders as marked on pattern.
Outer edges: Finish edges with bias
tape: front neckline with green bias tape,
armholes with red bias tape and bottom
hem with orange bias tape. Stitch right
side of bias tape to wrong side of apron,
stretching tape slightlyalong curves. Fold
bias tape to right side and topstitch it to
apron close to edge.
Finishing: Work buttonholes and sew
on buttons as marked on pattern.

38

..


r


r

28. Cook's hat

52-56 em

tid
MATERIALS
- 40 cm cotton poplin, cotton twill
or similar fabric
- 15 cm fusible wadding,
Vlieseline®Volumenvlies H 640
- 18 cm Velcro tape

~
MATERIALS
- 10 cm cotton poplin,
- 10 cm fusible felt
.- 6 ern Velcro tape

For applique:
- scrap of red fabric
- double-sided interfacing,
Vlieseline® Vliesofix
- tear-away backing,Vlieseline®
Stickvlies
- embroidery thread

Pages 18-19

CUTTING
Cut hat pieces from fabric as indicated
on list of pattern pieces; add I cm seam
allowances to edges of all pieces. Cut
side panel from fusible wadding without
adding seam allowances.
INSTRUCTIONS
Preparation: Fuse wadding to outer
side panel. Clip into seam allowances as
far as seamline at markings *-* on crown
panel and sew narrow hem (5 mm + 5
mm) between clips. Fold and machine­
baste pleats at edge of crown panel as
marked on pattern.
joining: Pin side panels together, right
sides facing,and stitch bottom edge and
sides as well as top edges until notches.

29. Nurse's headpiece
" ,c':::e;c>

(head circumference)

52-56 em

(head circumference)

CUTTING

Cut pieces from fabric as indicated on
list of pattern pieces. Cut headpiece from
fusible felt without adding seam
allowances.
INSTRUCTIONS
Preparation: Fuse felt to inner
headpiece panel. Applique motif on outer
headpiece panel following instructions
on p.44.
Neck strap: Press fold in the middle of
strap piece and fold strap piece in half,
wrong sides together. Turn seam
allowances at long edge and one end
under and topstitch edges together.

30. Prince's / knight's cape

MATERIALS
- 60-65-65-65-70-70-75 cm
cotton poplin and lining satin
- 350.. .410 cm single-fold
satin bias tape, width 20 mm
- 24 cm elastic cord

For applique:
- knight's cape: scraps of green, lilac,

31. Prince's crown

..
.


~
.

........... -_._-----_._-_
. -.. -" -. ~ ~.;.:;;.; ;-:~: -_

-."

'

MATERIALS
-

10 cm lining satin

10 cm fusible felt

15 cm interfacing,

8 beads and 8 small sequins

6 cm Velcro tape


Machine-baste neck straps to sides of
inner headpiece panel,right sides together.
joining: Pin headpiece panels together,
right sides facing,with neck straps
between panels. and stitch edges
together; leave small opening for turning
headpiece right side out at bottom edge
close to neck strap. Use zipper foot so
that you can stitch as close to edge of
fusible felt as possible. Turn headpiece
right side out and close opening by hand­
stitching. Topstitch around headpiece
using presser foot edge as guide.
Finishing: Stitch pieces of Velcro tape
to ends of neck straps as marked on
pattern.

yellow, white and black satin
- prince'S cape: scraps of pale blue
and yellow satin
- double-sided interfacing,
Vlieseline® Vliesofix
- tear-away backing,Vlieseline®
Stickvlies
- embroidery threads

50-56 em (head circumference)

cut

2 crown

PATTERN SHEET

2

C

lilac

J crown top
2 side panel

I
2

PATTERN SHEET

D green

~3
j4

fr;;;;;;;;;:

PATTERN PIECES

cut
2
2

3 headpiece
4 neck strap
r§> cross motif

PATTERN SHEET

D

green

(If

,"
~*

,~

"

"

" ~/~

'"

~p
cut

PATTERN PIECES

I+ I

I cape

PATTERN SHEET

C

lilac

tape as follows: Stitch right side of bias
tape to lining side of cape. Fold bias tape
to right (poplin) side and topstitch it to
cape close to edge. Finish neckline in the
same way, with ends of bias tape
extending as tie strings.

Page 15
CUTTING
Cut crown panels from satin as indicated
on list of pattern pieces. Cut crown panel
once from fusible felt without adding
seam allowances .
INSTRUCTIONS
Preparation: Cut interfacings for both
crown panels and fuse them in place.
Fuse felt to outer crown panel.
joining: Pin crown panels together and
stitch along edges; leave opening at
bottom edge at one end for turning

~

PATTERN PIECES

cut

PATTERN PIECES

Pages 14-15, 17

CUTTING
Cut cape panels both from poplin and
lining fabric.
Cut 105 ern piece from satin bias tape
for neckline binding and tie strings.
INSTRUCTIONS
Appliques: Read general instructions
for applique on p. 44.Trace applique
motifs from pattern sheet and cut them
out from scraps as shown in design
sketches. Applique motifs on cape panel
cut from cotton poplin; motifs have been
numbered to show in which order they
should be applied.
joining: Pin cape panels together, wrong
sides facing, and machine-baste them
together close to edges. Cut elastic cord
into two pieces, fold pieces in half and
machine-baste them to edge of cape on
lining side as marked on pattern.
Finish outer edge of cape with satin bias

o

:2

Page 21

86-92-98-104-1 10-1 16-122 em

B

A

Trim and taper seam allowances at
corners and turn side section right side
out.
Pin crown panel to inner side panel as
marked on pattern, with wrong side of
crown panel facing right side of inner
side panel, and stitch seam. Turn seam
allowance at top edge of outer side panel
under, pin turned-under edge to seamline
between crown and inner side panel and
topstitch it from right side. Topstitch all
edges of side section at the same time.
Cut Velcro tape in half and stitch pieces
to side section as marked on pattern,
placing hook sides of tape to inside of
left edge and loop sides to outside of
right edge.

crown right side out. Use zipper foot so
that you can stitch as close to edge of
fusible felt as possible. Trim and taper
top corners of crown points, clip into
inward corners as far as stitching and
turn crown right side out.Turn seam
allowances at opening in and topstitch
bottom edge of crown close to edge.
Finishing: Stitch pieces of Velcro tape
to crown as marked on pattern.Attach
sequins and beads to crown points by
hand-stitching.

39

-..1


-=­
32. Knight's shield

Size 32 em x 40 em

Page 17

MATERIALS
- 50 cm cotton poplin, outerwear
fabric or similar fabric
- 50 cm interfacing,Vlieseline® G740
- 50 ern fusible felt

PATTERN PIECES

cut
I+ I
2

3 shield
4 handle
PATTERN SHEET

C

lilac

For applique:
- scraps of red, lilac, yellow, white
and black satin or similar fabric
- double-sided interfacing,
Vlieseline®Vliesofix
- tear-away backing,
Vlieseline® Stickvlies
- embroidery threads

33.Tank top and crop top
A

B

f1t

86-92-98-104-110-116-122 em

C~"""'.!
.i'.,. \~/!\ $ i \
-. .
.,,,

,

•.

'

MATERIALS
- 45-50-50-50-55-55-55 ern
knit terry (A) or cotton
interlock knit (B)
- 30-30-30-30-35-35-35 ern
cotton interlock knit (C)
- 5 cm ribbing (A)
- J 10... 125 cm ruffled organza
elastic trim (B)
For print; fabric paint (GUtermann),
paper doily, disposable plate,

PATTERN SHEET

'

cut

front
(A+B)
back
(A+B)
neckline binding
(A)
armhole binding
(A)
I~ front
(C)
I ~ front side panel
(C)
2~ back
(C)

I" "'-"'''''''';]

,

' .. __ ..'1!

I
2
3
4

I """"""""""",q 4

2!

. .~

PATTERN PIECES

2

I
I
I
2
I
2
I

E green

disposable spoon and piece of
sponge
For design C also:
- 110 125 cm picot-edged elastic
- 50 60 cm elastic, width 15 mm
- piece of white cotton knit for
piping and applique
For applique also:
- piece of double-sided interfacing
- piece of tear-away backing

34. Panties for little girls

MATERI.ALS

Cut garment pieces from knit as indicated
on list of pattern pieces.When cutting
out garment pieces, add 7 mm seam
allowances to all edges.
Design A: Do not add seam allowances
to leg openings. Cut binding strips for
leg openings from ribbing without adding
seam allowances. Cut inside crotch piece

40

INSTRUCTIONS
Stitch seams with serger or use overedge
stretch stitch on regular sewing machine.
Preparation: Make print on front panel
(design B),or applique fiower motif on
front panel, following instructions on p.
44 (design C).
Design C, front panel seams: Fold
and press pipingstrips in half, wrong sides
together, and machine-baste them to
panel seam allowances at front. Stitch
panel seams and topstitch them close to
edge.

Design A, neckline and armholes:
Stitch one shoulder seam. Pin and stitch
right side of binding to wrong side of
neckline, stretching both binding and
neckline slightly. Fold binding to right
side, turn seam allowance under and
topstitch close to edge. Stitch the other
shoulder seam. Finish armholes with rib
binding in the same way as neckline.
Designs Band C, neckline and
armholes: Stitch one shoulder seam.
Stitch elastic to neckline, right sides
together, with straight stitch; stretch both
elastic and neckline slightly as you sew.
Turn neckline right way out and stitch
free edge of elastic to neckline with
zigzag.Stitch the other shoulder seam.
Finish armholes with elastic in the same
way as neckline.
Designs A, Band C: Stitch side seams.
Hemline, designs A and B: Fold up
and press bottom hem, and topstitch it
with serger coverstitch or on regular
sewing machine using e.g.double-needle,
multiple zigzag or honeycomb stitch.
Hemline, design C: Finish bottom hem
following instructions for finishing
waistline in design no. 34, Panties for little
girls.

rgJ.. ~.


Pages 10,12,18

- 20 ... 25 ern ruffled organza
elastic trim

5.14

For print: fabric paint (GUtermann),
paper doily, disposable plate,
disposable spoon and piece of sponge

For design A also:
- 5 ern ribbing for leg openings
- piece of cotton single knit for crotch
piece

For design C also:
• 50 ...70 cm picot-edged elastic
for leg openings
- piece of white cotton single knit
far piping and applique

For design B also:
- 52-54-57-59-62-65-67 cm Framilon®
tape, width 10 mm, for leg openings

For applique:
- piece of double-sided interfacing
- piece of tear-away backing

from cotton single knit.
INSTRUCTIONS
Stitch seams with serger or use overedge
stretch stitch on regular sewing machine.
Preparation: Make print on front panel
(design B),or applique flower motif on
front panel, following instructions on p.
44 (design C).

allowances at edges in and topstitch
handles close to edges. Stitch handles to
inner shield panel as marked on pattern,
placing them so that they are slightly
raised above surface of shield.
Joining: Fuse felt to both shield panels.
Stitch shield panels together, right sides
facing; leave big enough opening in seam
for turning shield right side out. Use
zipper foot so that you can stitch as close
to edge offusible felt as possible. Trim
and taper seam allowances at corners
and clip them along curves.Turn shield
right side out through opening in seam.
Close opening by hand-stitchingTopstitch
around shield, placing stitching 10 mm
from edge.

Pages I0, 12, 18

CUTTING
Cut garment pieces from knit as indicated
on list of pattern pieces.When cutting
out pieces, add 7 mm seam allowances
to all edges.
Design A: Cut neckline and armhole
bindingstrips from ribbingwithout adding
seam allowances.
Design B: Cut pieces of ruffled organza
elastic trim for neckline and armholes;
measure required lengths on pattern.
Design C: Cut pieces of picot-edged
elastic for necklineand armholes; measure
required lengths on pattern. Cut 2.5 cm
wide strips for piping trims from white
knit;measure required lengths on pattern.

86-92-98-104-110-116-122 em

- 25-25-30-30-30-30-30 ern
knit terry (A) or cotton interlock
knit (B and C)
- 50 ... 55 cm elastic for waist,
width 15 mm

CUTTING

CUTTING
Cut shield panels from poplin,interfacing
and fusible felt. Cut handles both from
poplin and interfacing. Do not add seam
allowances to pieces cut from interfacing
and fusiblefelt;add I cm seam allowances
to pieces cut from poplin.
INSTRUCTIONS
Preparation: Fuse interfacing to all
pieces.Trace dragon motif from pattern
sheet and read general instructions for
applique on p 44. Applique motif on
outer shield panel; parts of motif have
been numbered to show in which order
they should be applied.
Handles: Press folds on handle pieces
as marked on pattern, turn seam

Crotch piece: Pin front panel between
crotch pieces and stitch seam; seam
allowances will be concealed on finished
garment. Roll front panel up between
crotch pieces (in order to place it out
of the way) and pin back panel between
crotch pieces. Stitch seam and turn
panties right side out.
Panel seams, design A: Stitch panel

PATTERN PIECES
I
2
3
4
5

cut

front
I
crotch piece
I+ I
back
I
binding for leg opening (A) 2
piping strip (C)
2
PATTERN SHEET

F lilac

seams and topstitch them using presser
foot edge as guide. Design B: Machine­
baste ruffled organza elastic trims to
panel seam allowances at front. Stitch
seams and topstitch them using zigzag.
Design C: Fold and press piping strips
in half, wrong sides together, and machine­
baste them to panel seam allowances at
front. Stitch panel seams and topstitch
them close to edge.

r

:)

Waistline: Finish raw edge of waistline.
'1easure and adjust elastic to fit child's
.vaist (length of elastic = child's waist
,inus 7... 9 cm).join ends of elastic to
'xm closed loop. Mark quarter points
en elastic and along waistline. Pin and
-:lachine-baste elastic to wrong side of
waistline along outer edge of seam
allowance,aligning quarter point markings.

Fold waistline casing and elastic to inside
and stitch through all layers using e.g.
multiple zigzag or honeycomb stitch.
leg openings, design A:join ends of
leg-opening binding strips to form closed
loops. Pin and stitch right side of binding
to wrong side of leg opening, stretching
both binding and leg opening slightly. Fold
binding to right side, turn seam allowance

under and topstitch close to edge.
Design B: Pin-mark center points both
on leg openings and Framilon tape pieces.
Machine-baste Framilon tape to wrong
side of leg opening along outer edge of
seam allowance, stretching tape slightly
and aligning center-point markings. Turn
edge of leg opening to inside (with
Framilon tape within hem) and stitch

edge with zigzag, stretching it slightly as
you sew. Design C: join ends of picot­
edged elastics to form closed loops. Stitch
elastics to leg openings, right sides
together, with straight stitch; stretch both
elastics and leg openings slightly as you
sew.Turn leg openings right way out and
stitch free edge of elastics to panties
with zigzag.

:s

..,

35.T-shirt

86-92-98-104-1 10-1 16-122-128-134-140-146-152-158-164-170 em
B~

ie

c~

PATTERN PIECES

cut

I
I §> front
IbKk
I
2 neckline binding
I
3 sleeve (A+B)
2
4 sleeve-edge binding (A+B) 2
5 sleeve (C)
2

'1.

:1

r

Pages 14-17, 19-20

4

MATERIALS
Design A and B, short sleeves:
- 50-50-55-55-55-60-60-60-65-65­
70-70-75-75 em green/red and
20-20-20-20-20-20-20-20-25-25­
25-25-25-25 em turquoise/blue
knit terry or interlock knit
- 5 cm red ribbing (A)
- 5 em red ribbing for sleeve edges
and 5 em blue for neckline (B)
Design C, long sleeves:
- 50-50-55-55-55-60-60-60-65-80­
100-115-130-135-140 em
knit terry, microfleece, cotton rib
knit, interlock knit or similar fabric
- 5 em ribbing
All designs:
- 40... 50 em stabilizing tape,
Vlteseline ®Formband

36. Girl's T-sh irt
A~nm.~

B

I""""'"''''
CUTTING
Patterns for bindings include seam
allowances. Check length of bindings
before seWing.
When cutting out garment pieces, add
7 ... 10 mm seam allowances to all edges
of front and back panels (except neck
edges) and sleeves.
Designs A and B: Cut front and back
panels from green or red knit and sleeves
from turquoise or blue knit as indicated
on list of pattern pieces.
Cut neckline and sleeve-edge bindings
from ribbing.
Design B: Cut also 2.5 cm wide strips
from red knit for contrast stripes on
sleeves; measure required lengths on
pattern.

Design C: Cut front and back panels as
well as sleeves from knit and neckline
binding from ribbing as indicated on list
of pattern pieces.
INSTRUCTIONS
Stitch seams with serger or use overedge
stretch stitch on regular sewing machine.
Stabilizing tapes: Fuse stabilizing tapes
to back shoulder seam allowances; see
p.32.
Design B: Fold and press seam allow­
ances of contrast stripe strips to wrong
side; finished width of contrast stripes
should be 10 mm. Topstitch contrast
stripes to sleeve panels as marked on
pattern, using straight stretch stitch and
stretching strips slightly as you sew.

PATTERN SHEET

Sleeve edges, designs A and B: Finish
sleeve edges with rib binding.
Sleeve edges, design C: Turn up and
press sleeve-edge hems and topstitch
them with serger coverstitch or on
regular machine using e.g. double-needle,
multiple Zigzag or honeycomb stitch.
Neckline: Stitch one shoulder seam.
Finish neckline with rib binding.
Joining: Stitch the other shoulder seam.
turn seam allowances along neckline
binding toward back and secure in place
with bar tack. Stitch sleeves to armholes.
Stitch sleeve seams and side seams.
Hemline: Turn up and press bottom
hem and topstitch it using e.g. double­
needle, multiple zigzag or honeycomb
stitch.

86-92::.~8-1 04-1 10-1 16-122-128-134-140-146-152-158-164-170 em

n~lj
fr
.
~


, .\ 11&

I

~

MATERIALS

Design A, short sleeves:

- 45-45-50-50-50-55-55-55-60-60­

65-65-80-85-90 em firm rib knit
or interlock knit
- 85 ... 100 em ruffled organza
elastic trim
Design B, long sleeves:
- 45-45-50-50-50-55-55-55-60-60­
65-90-105-125-130 cm
firm rib knit or interlock knit
- 40 ... 50 cm ruffled organza elastic
trim
Both designs:
- Is.. .25 em stabilizing tape

CUTTING
Cut garment pieces from knit as indicated
on list of pattern pieces; add I cm seam
allowances to all edges of pieces.
Cut pieces of ruffled organza elastic trim
for neckline (and armholes in design A);
measure required lengths on pattern.
INSTRUCTIONS
Stitch seams with serger or use overedge
stretch stitch on regular sewing machine.
Preparation: Embroider either heart
motif following instructions on p.46 or
cow-parsley motif" on front panel.
Stabilizing tapes: Fuse stabilizing tapes

37. Boy's boxer briefs

.

to back shoulder seam allowances;
see p.32.
Neckline: Stitch one shoulder seam.
Stitch ruffled organza elastic trim to
neckline, right sides together, stretch
both elastic and neckline slightly as you
sew. Turn elastic right way up and stitch
along neckline with zigzag.
Sleeve edges, design A: Finish sleeve
edges with ruffled organza elastic trim
in the same way as neckline. Design B:
Turn up and press sleeve-edge hems and
topstitch them with serger coverstitch
or on regular machine using e.g. double­
needle, multiple zigzag or honeycomb
stitch.

86-92-98-104-1 10-1 16-122 em

I
2
3
4

cut

leg panel
front panel
back panel
binding for leg opening*

PATTERN SHEET

2
I
I
2

Pages 12,

PATTERN PIECES

cut

I


I ©c- front
I back
2 short sleeve
3 long sleeve
PATTERN SHEET

I

2

2


F orange

Joining: Stitch the other shoulder seam.
Stitch sleeves to armholes. Stitch sleeve
seams and side seams.
Hemline: Turn up and press bottom
hem and topstitch it with serger
coverstitch or on regular sewing machine
using e.g. double-needle, multiple zigzag
or honeycomb stitch.
*Cow-parsley embroidery:

Materials:
tear-away backing, embroidery threads
Read general instructions for embroidery
on p. 44, trace motif from pattern sheet
and embroider it at hem of front panel
with reinforced straight stitch.

Page 14
c.

PATTERN PIECES

I'·

E blue

··-- ­

MATERIALS
- 30-30-30-30-35-35-35 em green
and turquoise knit terry, cotton
rib knit, interlock knit or similar
fabric
- 10 em red ribbing
- 50 ... 55 em elastic, width 15 mm

E orange
41

CUTTING

INSTRUCTIONS

Cut leg panels from turquoise knit terry
and front and back panels from green
knit terry as indicated on list of pattern
pieces.When cutting out garment pieces,
add 7 mm seam allowances to all edges.
Cut binding strips for leg openings from
ribbing without adding seam allowances.
Cut also 3 cm wide strips for contrast
stripes.

Preparation: Fold and press I cm seam
allowance to wrong side at one edge of
contrast stripe piece. Stitch dart on front
panel.
Joining: Stitch left edge of front panel
to left leg panel wrong sides together
with straight stretch stitch; all seam
allowances will be on right side of
garment. Pin unfolded edge of contrast
stripe piece to front panel seam, right

sides together, stretching contrast stripe
piece slightly and aligning edges of all
seam allowances, and stitch along previous
stitching line.Trim seam allowances. Pin
folded edge of contrast stripe piece on
top of seam and stitch along edge,
concealing seam allowances under
contrast stripe. Topstitch other edge of
contrast stripe.
Stitch other front and back panel seams
in the same way, one at a time. Stitch

crotch seam.
Waistline: Finish waistline following
instructions for design no. 34. Panties for
little girls.
Leg openings: Join ends of leg-opening
binding strips to form closed loops. Pin
and stitch right side of binding to wrong
side of leg opening, stretching both binding
and leg opening slightly. Fold binding to
right side, turn seam allowance under
and topstitch close to edge.

38. Underwear leggings or long johns (A) 86-92-98-104-110-116-122 em Pages 16,19
Leggings (8) or shorts (C) 128-134-140-146-152-158-164-170 em Pages 13,21
A

B

cut

PATTERN PIECES

MATERIALS

Longs johns and tights
86-J22em
I pants panel (A)
Tights 128-170 em
2a+b pants pan el (8)
Shorts 128-170 em

Design A, 86- J 22 em:

- 60-65-70-75-75-80-85 ern
striped rib knit or interlock knit
+ 5 cm knit in solid color

(for a boy)

Design B, 128-170 em:
- 90-95-100-100-105-110-1 10­

j 15 cm cotton rib knit


2a ~ pants pa nel (C)

PATTERN SHEET

or interlock knit


2
2
2

0

blue

- 55 ... 65 cm picot-edged elastic
Design C, shorts, 128-170 em:
cotton rib knit or interlock knit

seam allowances to all edges. Design A,
for a boy: Cut also 2.5 cm wide strips
from solid knit for contrast stripes.

middle of pants panels as marked on
pattern, using straight stretch stitch and
stretching strips slightly as you sew.

- 80 ... 95 cm picot-edged elastic
All designs:

- 50 ... 70 cm elastic, width 15 mm


INSTRUCTIONS

Joining: Stitch inseams. Stitch crotch

Stitch seams with serger or use overedge
stretch stitch on regular sewing machine.

seam.

- 35-35-35-35-40-40-40-40 cm

CUTTING
Cut pants panels from striped knit as
indicated on list of pattern pieces. When
cutting out garment pieces, add 7 mm

Preparation, design A, for a boy: Fold
and press seam allowances of contrast
stripe strips to wrong side; finished width
of contrast stripes should be 10 mm.
Topstitch contrast stripe strips in the

Waistline: Finish waistline following
instructions for design no. 34, Panties for
little girls.
Bottom edges of legs, design A: Turn
up and press bottom hems and topstitch
them with double-needle, multiple zigzag

39. Panties 128-134-140-146-152-158-164-170 em

or honeycomb stitch.
Bottom edges of legs, designs Band

C: Join ends of picot-edged elastics to
form closed loops. Stitch elastics to
bottom edges of legs, right sides together,
with straight stitch; stretch both elastics
and bottom edges of legs slightly as you
sew.Turn bottom edges of legs right way
out and stitch free edge of elastics to
pants with zigzag.

Page 13

Cut garment pieces from knit as indicated
on list of pattern pieces. When cutting
out garment pieces, add 7 mm seam
allowances to all edges. Cut pieces of
picot-edged elastic for side seams and
leg openings; measure required lengths
on pattern.

MATERIALS
- 35 cm cotton rib knit or

INSTRUCTIONS

interlock knit

- 115... 135 cm picot-edged elastic,
width 12 mm
- 55 ...70 cm elastic,width 15 mm

40. Camisole

Stitch seams with serger or use overedge
stretch stitch on regular sewing machine.
Preparation: Machine-baste pieces of

picot-edged elastics to front panel side
seam allowances.

Leg openings: Finish leg openings
following instructions for design no. 38,
bottom edges of legs, Band C.

128-134-140-146-152-158-164-170 em

====-= CUTTING
CUt garment pieces from knit as
PATTERN PIECES

cut

I front
2 back
PATTERN SHEET

42

Indicated on list of pattern pieces.

INSTRUCTIONS

E lilac

Stitch seams with serger or use overedge
stretch stitch on regular sewing machine.

-s

cut

PATTERN PIECES

I front
2bKk
PATTERN SHEET

I

2

E grey

Pages 13,21

MATERIALS
- 55-55-60-60-60-65-65-65 cm

- I 3 cm narrow satin ribbon
For print, design B:

rib knit, interlock knit or similar
fabric
• 150... 195 cm picot-edged elastic

Pale blue and white fabric paint
(Gutermann), scalpel, plastic sheeting
(e.g. plastic pocket) or litho paper
for template, paper doily, disposable
plate, disposable spoon and piece
of sponge.

For design A also:

sehoulder straps:
16-16,5-17-17,5

18-19-20-21 em


Vb

: ! \\

Joining: Stitch side seams and topstitch
them using Zigzag.Stitch center back
seam and crotch seam.
Waistline: Finish waistline following
instructions for design no. 34, Panties for
little girls.

........

~

n······

CUTTING

- 5 em Framilon® tape

Print, design B:
I. Trace wings on plastic sheeting or
litho paper and cut them out with scalpel.
2. Pour a small amount of pale blue paint
on disposable plate and dab sponge in
it so that paint gets evenly distributed
on sponge.
3. Place template on back panel and dab
small amount of blue fabric paint at a

time over motif with sponge. Allow paint
dry for a short while.
4. Choose suitable area on paper doily
and place it in cut-out (Wingtemplate is
still in place). Dab white paint over motif.
5. Allow print to dry properly and fix it
to fabric by pressing, following directions
on paint container.

to

r

"5
"

Joining: Stitch one side seam. Finish top
2dge of camisole with picot-edged elastic
3S follows: Stitch elastic to edge of cami­
sole, right sides together, stretching both
elastic and garment edge as you sew.
Turn elastic right way up and stitch along
tOP edge of camisole with zigzag.Stitch

the other side seam. Fold up and press
bottom hem, and topstitch it with serger
coverstitch or on regular sewing machine
using e.g. double-needle, multiple zigzag
or honeycomb stitch.
Shoulder straps: Cut four pieces of
picot-edged elastic for shoulder straps

and pin them together in pairs, with
picot edges as outer edges of straps.
Stitch in the middle of strap with zigzag,
stretching elastics considerably as you
sew. Finish ends of straps with zigzag
and stitch straps in place as marked on
pattern.

Finishing, design A: Stitch piece of
Framilon tape to wrong side of front
panel with zigzag as marked on pattern,
stretching Framilon tape as you sew.
Attach satin ribbon bow at top end of
stitching.

"g

n


41. Boy's long johns 128-134-140-146-152-158-164-170 em Page 20
MATERIALS

- 85-90-95-[00-105-105-110-115 em blue cotton rib knit or interlock knit

- 6 em red cotton rib knit or interlock knit for contrast stripes
- 55 .. .70 em elastic, width 15 rnrn
CUTTING

"'::;;

Cut garment pieces from knit as indicated
on list of pattern pieces. When cutting
out garment pieces, add 7 mm seam
allowances to all edges. Cut also 3 cm
wide strips for contrast stripes from red
knit.
INSTRUCTIONS

:":.':i::'·;;'·;.~·'·'

Stitch seams with serger and with straight
stretch stitch on regular sewing machine.
Preparation: Fold and press I cm seam

d

42.Women's wool coat

\


2.

3

113

allowance to wrong side at one edge of
contrast stripe piece. Stitch dart on front
panel.
joining: Follow instructions for design
no. 37, Boxer briefs. Stitch inseams.
Waistline: Finish waistline following
instructions for design no. 34, Panties for
little girls.
Bottom edges of legs: Turn up and
press bottom hems to wrong side and
topstitch them with double-needle,
multiple zigzag or honeycomb stitch.

C 34-36-38-40-42-44-46

(regular fit)

Page 65

cut

PATTERN PIECES
I A+B leg panel

2

2 front panel

I

3 back panel

I

PATTERN SHEET

E red
cut

PATTERN PIECES

Garment, woolblend fabric

:r,
:S
lU

,y

r

u


3A


2

IA+B front
2A+B front side panel
3A+B back
4 upper sleeve
5 under sleeve
6 upper collar
7 under collar

2
2
2

2
I

I

Lining, woolblend fabric
2

8A+B front facing

313

.. ..!~
MATERIALS

- 180-185-185-190-205~205-21 0 em
wool/cashmere blend

- 150-155-155-160·165-165-170 em
lining satin
CUTTING
Garment: Cut garment pieces from
wool fabric as indicated on list of pattern
pieces.
Lining: Trace pattern for front facing
from pattern for coat front and cut facings
from wool fabric. Note that lining is cut
along pattern foldlines at back bottom
hem and at sleeve-edge hems.
Cut lining pieces from lining fabric as
indicated on list of pattern pieces. Cut
lining'sback panel on fold without center
back seam, placing center-back edge of
pattern 2 cm from folded edge of fabric
to provide extra ease on lining(see small­
scale patterns).Cut also 4 cm x 10 cm
strip from lining fabric for hanging loop.
Wadding: Cut sleeve headings from
wadding.
INSTRUCTIONS
Preparation: Cut interfacings for areas
shaded in grey in small-scale patterns
and fuse them in place.Sew easing stitches
along back shoulder seam allowances
and along sleeve caps on upper sleeves
as marked on pattern. Pull easing threads
slightly and shape shoulders and sleeve
caps by steam-pressing.

- 160-180-200-200-205-210-210 em
interfacing,Vlieseline G 740
- piece of light wadding
- small shoulder pads
- 4 buttons, 0 28 mm

~ ~CJ 01
UIO~:O ~j

Lining, lining satin
I A+B '9> front
2A+B '9> front side panel
3A+B '9> back
4 '9> upper sleeve
5 '9> under sleeve
9 pocket piece
10 sleeve heading
PATTERN SHEET

Pockets: Stitch pocket pieces to front
panels and front side panels, right sides
together.Stitch panel seams at front from
hem to notch for pocket opening and
from top of pocket opening to armhole.
Stitch pocket pieces together.
joining garment: Stitch center back
seam. Stitch shoulder seams. Stitch side
seams. Stitch upper sleeves and under
sleeves together and stitch sleeve under­
arm seams. Press all seams open through
damp ironing cloth.
Stitch sleeves to armholes. Stich sleeve
heading to sleeve cap, to wrong side of
sleeve along edge of seam allowance.
Stitch under collar to neckline, right sides
together, as marked on pattern; start and
finish stitching I cm from ends of collar
piece (= width of seam allowance). Clip
seam allowances along neckline and press
seam open.
joining lining: Fold and machine-baste
small pleat on front panel as marked on
pattern. Stitch front facings to front
panels. Stitch ease pleat at center back
approx. 25 cm from hem and approx. 10
cm from neckline and press pleat. Stitch
shoulder seams and side seams; leave
opening for turning coat right side out

in one side seam. Stitch upper sleeves
and under sleeves together and stitch
sleeve underarm seams. Press seams
open. Stitch sleeves to armholes. Prepare
hanging loop and machine-baste it to
back neckline. Stitch upper collar to
lining's neckline in the same way as under
collar to garment and press seam open.
Intermediate press: Steam-press
garment and lining carefully before
continuing. Press bottom hem and sleeve­
edge hems of garment. Turn both
garment and lining inside out.
joining garment and lining: Pin and
stitch outer edges of upper and under
collar together, right sides facing. Pin and
stitch front edges together, starting from
bottom corner of collar and finishing at
seam that joins front facing and lining.
Trim and taper seam allowances at
corners.
Pin and stitch bottom hem of lining to
bottom hem of garment, right sides to­
gether, Start pinning in the middle of back
panel and pin up extra length on lining
gradually before reaching bottom corner
of front facing (see illustration on pattern
sheet F).

F

2

2
I

2
2
2+2

2
black

Bring sleeve edges of garment and lining
end to end, line up edges and pin them
together, right sides facing, and stitch
(note that sleeve and sleeve lining are
not placed within one another).Turn coat
right side out through opening in lining's
side seam.
Shoulder pads: Insert shoulder pads
through opening in lining's side seam, pin
them in place on shoulders and stitch by
hand to lining'sarmhole seam allowances
and shoulder seam allowances.
Finishing: Fold and pin sleeve edges and
bottom hem in place. Pull sleeve edges
out one at a time through opening in
lining's side seam and sew sleeve-edge
hems by hand with catchstitch, Stitch
bottom hem in the same way.Anchor
liningto garment with small French tacks
stitched to armpit seam allowances. Pin
and stitch neckline seam allowances of
garment and liningtogether, starting from
back and continuing as far to front panels
as possible. Close opening in lining's side
seam by hand-stitching.
Steam-press front edges and outer edge
of collar and topstitch them 12... 14 mm
from edge.Work buttonholes and sew
on buttons as marked on pattern.

43

43. Women's skirt

C 34-36-38-40-42-44-46
CUTTING
Cut garment pieces from wool and lining
fabric as indicated on list of pattern
pieces. Cut lining 2 em shorter than
fashion-fabric skirt (skirt foldline at hem
= cutting line of lining).
INSTRUCTIONS

MATERIALS
- 70-70-70-70-70-75-75 em
wool fabric
- 65-70-70-70-70-75-75 em
lining fabric
- 75 ... 90 em curved petersham
ribbon, width 25 mm
- skirt zipper, length 18 em
- hook and eye
For embroidery:
- piece of tear-away backing,
Vlieseline® Stickvlies
- white embroidery thread

Embroidery: Read general instructions
for embroidery on p. 44. Trace embroi­
dery motif from pattern sheet on tear­
away backing and embroider it on skirt
front panel with reinforced straight stitch.
Joining: Stitch darts. Stitch side seams
and center back seam from hem until
notch for zipper placket and press seams
open. Construct lining in the same way;
when stitching center back seam stop 3
em below notch for zipper placket. Sew
narrow hems along edges of center-back
placket opening on lining.
Zipper and waistline:
I. Stitch right-hand zipper tape to right
edge of zipper placket, right sides togeth­
er, as marked on pattern.

44. Women's blouse

C 34-36-38-40-42-44-46

CUTTING
Cut garment pieces from fabric as indi­
cated on list of pattern pieces. Patterns
for cuff placket underlap and overlap in­
clude seam allowances; add I em seam
allowances to all edges of other pieces.
INSTRUCTIONS
Seams are topstitched close to edge.
Preparation: Cut interfacings for front
placket facings, upper collar, inside collar
stand, cuffs and cuff placket overlaps
(areas shaded in grey in small-scale
patterns) and fuse them in place.
Cuff plackets: Prepare cuff plackets
following illustrated instructions on p.
46.

MATERIALS
- f 20-120-125-1 30-1 30-135150 em cotton poplin or similar
light-weight fabric
- 10 em interfacing.
Vlieseline G 785
- 9 ... 1 I buttons

Joining: Stitch front side panels to front
panels and topstitch seams. Stitch back
side panels to back center panel and
topstitch seams. Stitch shoulder seams
and side seams. Stitch underarm seams
of sleeves. Sew easing stitches along sleeve
cap and pull easing threads slightly.Stitch
sleeves to armholes.
Fold front placket facings along foldlines

APPLIQUE

MACHINE EMBROIDERY

Designs 4, 7, 18,26,29,30,32,33 and 34

Designs 4,8,21,23, 36 and 43

I. Trace motif from pattern sheet on
double-sided interfacing. Fuse double­
sided interfacing to wrong side of motif
fabric and cut motif out along its outlines.
Remove paper backing and fuse motif to
garment / base fabric.
2. Pin tear-away backing to wrong side
of garment / base fabric under applique
motif.
3. Stitch along outlines of motif with
narrow satin stitch (= short zigzag) or
with decorative stitch. (Embroider details
using reinforced straight stitch or narrow,
short zigzag.)
4. Remove tear-away backi ng (and wash
embroidery stabilizer away with water).

Smooth fabrics:
I. Trace motif from pattern sheet on
tear-away backing. Pin tear-away backing
to wrong side of garment / base fabric
and machine-baste outlines of motif from
wrong side using thread in matching
color.
2. Embroider motif from right side along
machine-basting with reinforced straight
stitch, short narrow zigzag or decorative
stitch.
3. Remove tear-away backing.

Tip! If applique motif comprises several
parts, shapes have been numbered to
show in which order they should be
applied. Fuse and stitch shape no. I in
place first, and so on.

44

Napped fabrics and knits:
I. Trace motif from pattern sheet on
water-soluble embroidery stabilizer (using
air- and water-soluble marking pen).
2. Pin embroidery stabilizer to right side
of garment / base fabric and pin tear­
away backing to wrong side of fabric.
3. Embroider motif by stitching on top
of embroidery stabilizer with narrow
short zigzag and/or various decorative
stitches.
4. Remove tear-away backing and wash
embroidery stabilizer away with water.

(regular fit)

Pages 64-65

2. Fold placket right way out, pin other
zipper tape from wrong side to placket
facing and stitch in place (on finished
garment, stitching is not visible on right
side ).
3. Fold placket facing to right side of
skirt, stitch top corner (with end of
zipper in between) and turn corner right
side out.

4. Topstitch zipper placket 15 mm from

edge.

5. Machine-baste skirt and liningtogether
along inner edge of waistline seam allow­
ance, wrong sides facing.
6. Pin top edge of petersham ribbon to
waistline seam allowance to right side of
skirt next to machine-basting and stitch
it in place.
7. Fold petersham ribbon to inside. turn
seam allowances at its ends under and
topstitch waist using presser foot edge
as guide.
8. Stitch ends of petersham ribbon to
waist by hand. Sew hook and eye to waist
by hand.

(regular fit)

cut

PATTERN PIECES

fashion fabric lining fabric
I skirt front
2 skirt back

=

I
2

I
2

embroidery

PATTERN SHEET

F

blue

Hemline: Sew bottom hem following
instructions for design no. I I, Girl's wool
skirt.

Pages 64-65

and press. Fold placket facings at front
hemline to right side, stitch bottom edge
of facing to hem edge and turn corners
right side out. Turn up, pin and stitch
bottom hem (I em + I em). Stitch edges
of front placket facings to front panels.
Collar: Construct collar with stand
following illustrated instructions on
pattern sheet D.
Cuffs: Fold pleats at sleeve edges and
machine-baste them in place. Fold cuff
piece in half, right sides together, stitch
ends, and turn cuff right side out. Pin and
stitch one edge of cuff to sleeve edge,
with right side of cuff facing wrong side
of sleeve. Fold and pin seam allowances
at other edge to inside of cuff. stitch cuff
edge to sleeve edge and topstitch around
cuff at the same time.
Finishing: Work buttonholes and sew
on buttons: place buttons on collar stand
and cuffs as marked on pattern, and on
garment's front so that topmost button
is 4 em from neck seamline and the rest
at regular intervals (7... 10 em).

PATTERN PIECES

cut

I front center panel
2 front side panel
3 back center panel
4 back side panel
5 sleeve
6 collar
7 collar stand
8 cuff
9 cuff placket underlap
10 cuff placket overlap

2
2

PATTERN SHEET

I

2
2
1+1

2
2
2
2

F red

PRINT USING PAPER
DOILY ASTEMPLATE
Designs 33.34 and 40

Reinforced straight stitch = straight
stitch with sequences of two stitches forward
and one stitch backward.
Vlieseline® Stickvlies
= tear-away backing
Vlieseline® Vliesofix
= double-sided interfacing

I. Choose suitable area on paper doily
for print and place it on front panel of
tank top or panties.
2. Pour a small amount of paint on dis­
posable plate and dab sponge in it so
that paint gets evenly distributed on
sponge.
3. Dab small amount of fabric paint at a
time in openings on doily with sponge.
Dab also paint slightly over edges of doily
in order to make outlines of motif visible.
4. Allow print to dry properly and fix it
to fabric by pressing, following directions
on paint container.

CUFF PLACKET FOR A SHIRT I BLOUSE

designs no. 14,24,45
cuff placket
overlap
WS
~;'

cuff placket
underlap

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,

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,,,

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,,

CD:

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:

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--~---~""'l-----.--

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RS

RS

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WS

WS:

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WS

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,

I. Cut cuff placket underlap and overlap from
fabric; patterns include seam allowances. (Fuse
interfacings to overlap pieces as marked on
pattern.)
Fold underlap and overlap pieces in half, wrong
sides together, and press creases at folds.

',~
"

--1---­

,

2. Mark placket opening on sleeve as marked
on pattern and slash opening carefully.

,
,
,
,,

,
,
,

:

: ws
WS

3. Pin underlap and overlap to placket opening
(right sides of underlap and overlap facing wrong
side of sleeve) and stitch them in place; stitching
on both sides of placket opening must be of
equal length and end exactly at slashed top
corner of opening.
4. Fold sleeve edge right sides together along

placket opening.

Fold seam allowance at edge of underlap under

and stitch folded edge to placket opening.

5. At top of placket opening, pin triangular piece

to underlap and to seam allowance of overlap

and stitch it in place from right side of placket.

6. Fold overlap to right side of sleeve. Fold and

pin seam allowances at top end and right-hand

edge of overlap under.

7. Stitch top end and edges of overlap to placket

opening.


(8. Cuffplacket for a boy's shirt: Work buttonhole

on cuff placket overlap as marked on pattern.

Sew button on cuff placket underlap.)


HEART EMBROIDERY design no. 36
Materials:
-

46

piece of striped cotton fabric
12 cm narrow satin ribbon
6 flower sequins and 6 small beads
double-sided interfacing, Ylieseline® Yliesofix
tear-away backing, Ylieseline® Stickvlies
embroidery threads

Instructions:
I. Trace heart motif from pattern sheet on tear­
away backing and cut shaded shape out along its
outlines. Cut also middle part of shaded shape
out.
2. Cut 9 cm x 9 cm piece from striped cotton
and pin it to wrong side of front panel under motif
to be embroidered. Pin equal-size piece of tear­
away backing under piece of cotton.
3. Pin heart templates to right side of front panel
and machine-baste along outlines of both heart
shapes with straight stitch using thread in matching
color.

4. Remove templates. Stitch heart shapes along
previous rows of stitching from right side with
reinforced straight stitch or narrow short zigzag.
5. Cut knit fabric between rows of stitching
carefully out with sharp scissors, leaving a little
bit of fabric to fray along stitching. Remove tear­
away backing and cut excess striped cotton off
from wrong side of front panel.
6. Tie satin ribbon in a bow and stitch it in the
middle of heart. Attach sequins and beads.



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