teh 5 2006 .pdf



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I. Body

50-56-62-68-74-80-86 cm

Pages 52-53,55

@

2

CUTTING

front neckline

- 21-22-23-24-25-26-27 cm

Cut garment pieces from interlock knit
as indicated on list of pattern pieces. Do
not add seam allowances to neckline,
sleeve edges and bottom edges of front

and bacKpanels.

..

Cut 4 cm wide strip from contrast-color
interlock knit for finishing edges and cut
following pieces from it:

- 24-25-26-27-28-29-30
cm strip

.

SEWING
strip for

back neckline
- two 12-12.5-13-13.5-14-14.5-15
strips for sleeve edges
- 46-47-48-49-50-5 I~52 cm strip
for bottom edge of garment

cm

Check length of bindings before sewing
as the stretch and recovery qualities of
different knits vary.

for

2.Wraparound jacket

Seams and hems: Stitch seams with
serger, or with overedge stretch stitch
on regular sewing machine. Sew machinebasting with straight stitch.
joining: Finish front and back necklines
as well as sleeve edges with binding,
following illustrated instructions on p.27.

pattern markings for shoulders and pin
panels together. Machine-baste edges of
armholes together.
Stitch sleeves to armholes. Stitch sleeve
seams and side seams. Stitch ends of
bottom-edge binding strip together to
form closed loop and finishbottom edge
of garment with binding as above.

Lay back neckline on top of front panel,
with both panels right side up, and align

Attach snap fasteners to crotch as marked
on pattern.

50-56-62-68-74-80-86 cm

4

CUTTING

strips for sleeve edges

Cut garment pieces from knit as indicated
on list of pattern pieces. Do not add seam
allowances to neckline, front edges, sleeve
edges and bottom hem.

Check length of bindings before sewing
as the stretch and recovery qualities of
different knits vary.

Cut 4 cm wide strip from interlock knit
or ribbing for finishing edges and cut
following pieces from it: .
- 57-60-63-66-69-72-75 cm strip for
neckline, front edges and bottom hem
- two 13-13.5-14-14.5-15-15.5-16 cm

SEWING
Seams and hems: Stitch seams with
serger, or with overedge stretch stitch
on regular sewing machine.
Stay tapes: Fuse stay tapes to shoulder
seam allowances on back panels. Measure

Pages 52-53

5

10

required lengths of stay tape from pattern
pieces and add seam allowances.
Preparation:
Cut twill tape into six
equal-length pieces. Machine-baste three
pieces of twill tape to wrong side of outer
front panel as follows: two to front edge
and one to side seam as marked on
pattern. Machine-baste one piece of twill
tape to wrong side of inner front panel
at topmost pattern marking and two tapes
to right side of inner front panel at side
seam as marked on pattern.

3. Baby'sknit pants / skirted pants 50-56-62-68-74.80-86
cm
A

C

I front
2 back
3 sleeve

4 front
5 back
6 sleeve

joining: Stitch shoulder seams and sleeves
to armholes. Stitch sleeve seams and side
seams.
Finish front and back necklines, front
edges and bottom hem as well as sleeve
edges with binding, following illustrated
instructions on p. 27. Fold twill tapes right
way out and topstitch them in place close
edge of binding.

Pages 52-53,55

D
I pants leg
2 waistband
3 knee patch (B)
4 pocket (C)
5 skirt panel (D)

CUTTING

MATERIALS

- 35-35-40-45-50.-50-55
cm
velour knit (A and B), heavy-weight
knit terry (C) or single jersey (D)
1- 15 cm x 25'cm piece of
solid-colored
velour knit (B)
15 cm ribbing, width 80 cm
(A, Band C)

- 20-20-20-25-25-25-25

,
26

interlock

knit, width

~~--

cm

145 cm (D)

2
I
2

Designs A, Band C: Cut pants leg
panels from heavy-weight knit terry or
velour knit and waistband from ribbing.
Cut knee patc~es from solid-colored
velour knit {B). Cut pockets from ribbing
(C).
Design D: Cut pants leg panels from
striped single jersey, and waistband and
skirt panels from solid-colored interlock
knit as shown in design sketch.
SI;WING
Seams and hems: Stitch seams with
serger, or with overedge stretch stitch

on regular sewing machine. Stitch hems'
with double-needle or with serger coverstitch.
*
Preparation,
design B: Topstich knee
patches in place as marked on pattern.
Preparation,
design C: Sew hems at
opening edges of pockets and topstitch
pockets in place as marked on pattern.
Preparation,
design D: Pin skirt panels
together, right sides facing, and stitch side
seams. Finish bottom hem.of skirt with
serger rolled hem or with short, narrow
zigzag, stretching fabric slightly as you
sew to produce lettuce edge.

2
I
2
2
2

joining: Stitch leg inseams. Stitch crotch
seam. Fold up and stitch hems at bottom
edges of legs. (Design D: Pin and machinebaste skirt section to pants waistline,
aligning center-front and center-back
markings.)
Stitch center-back seam of waistband,
right sides together. Fold waistband in
half, wrong sides together. Turn pants
inside out and pin waistband to pants
waist, right sides together, aligning centerfront and center-back markings. Stitch
waist seam, stretching both pants and
waistband as you sew.Foldup and stitch
hems at bottom edges of legs.

..

..

4. Baby bonnet

36-38-40-42-44-46-48

cm (headcircumference)

CUTTING

---. MATERIALS

- 20-20-20-20-25-25-25cm
striped single jersey
4cm interlock knit or ribbing
36 cm twill tape, width 10 mm

-

----

--

Cut garment pieces from single jersey as
indicated on list of pattern pieces. Cut 4
cm x 40-43-46-49-52-55-58 cm strip from
interlock knit or ribbing for finishing
edges. Check length of binding before
sewing as the stretch and recovery
qualities of different knits vary.
SEWING
Seams and hems: Stitch seams with
serger, or with overedge stretch stitch
on regular sewing machine.

Pages 52-53

8

Preparation:
Cut tWill tape in half and
machine-baste pieces to wrong side of
side panels as marked on pattern.
joining: Stitch side panels to center
panel, right sides together. Stitch ends of
binding strip together to form closed
loop and finish edge of bonnet with
binding, following illustrated instructions,
see bottom of page. Fold tWilltapes right
way out and topstitch them in place close
edge of binding.

ill
PATTERN PIECES

c~
2
I

7 side panel
8 center panel

PATTERN SHEET Ji.. red

~

5.Velour dress and headband

--

50-56-62-68-74-80-86
cm

---.

..

Pages 49-5 I

10!

--CUTTING
Cut garment pieces from knit as indicated
on list of pattern pieces.
SEWING
Seams and hems: Stitch seams wit!:!
straight stitch and finish them with serger
or zigzag stitch. Topstitch seams using
presser-foot edge as guide.
Stay tapes: Fuse stay tapes to shoulder
seam allowances on back yoke panels and
to center-back seam allowances along
zipper placket on yoke and skirt panels.
Shaped facing: Cut interfacing for
shaped facing and fuse it in place. Finish
outer raw edge of shaped facing.

--

Zipper underlay: Fold zipper underlay
piece in half, right sides together, and
stitch its curved edge.Turn underlay right
side out and serge or zigzag its open
edges together. Machine-baste underlay
to one end of shaped facing, right sides
together, as marked on pattern.
joining: Stitch skirt side panels to center
panels, fold seam allowances toward
center panels and topstitch seams. Pin
and stitch front yoke and front skirt
section together, right sides facing, fold
seam allowances toward yoke and
topstitch seam. Stitch back yokes to back
skirt panels in the same way and topstitch
seams. Finishraw edges of center-back
seam allowances.

6.Velour footed pants

0WG
Bw~mu
Neckline and invisible zipper: Stitch
shoulder seams, fold seam allowances
toward back yoke and topstitch seams.
Finish neckline and apply invisible zipper
following illustrated instructions on p.44.
joining:
Sew gathering stitches along
sleeve caps as marked on pattern and

gather sleeves. Stitch sleeves to armholes
and topstitch seams. Stitch sleeve underarm seams and side seams. Finish raw
edge of bottom hem, fold up and pin hem
allowance to wrong side, and topstitch
or serger
hem with double-needle

coverstitch.

Sleeve edges: Cut elastic in half and
stitch ends of each piece together
to

50-56-62-68-74 cm

MATERIALS
40-45-45-50-50 cm velour knit,
! knit terry, interlock knit or similar
1 fabric
i
~ 44...50 cm elastic, width 20 mm.

5

-

<I>

-

- 12-13-14-15-16
cm

elastic,

topstitching

with straight stitch.

4

~ffi

width 4 mm

CUTTING
Cut garment pieces from knit as indicated
on list of pattern pieces.

SEWING
Seams and hems: Stitch seams with
serger,or with overedge stretch stitch
on regular sewing machine.Sew

sole panels to pants, right sides together.

Preparation:
Cut narrower elastic in
half. Stitch elastics to wrong side of leg
backs as marked on pattern, stretching
them
joining:

firmly as you sew.
Stitch foot tops and gusset

to

front panel, right sides together. Stitch leg
inseams and side seams. Pin and stitch

cut!

I front yoke
2 skirt center panel, front
3 skirt side panel, front
4 back yoke
S skirt center panel, back
6 skirt side panel, back
7 sleeve
8 shaped facing for neckline
9 zipper underlay
I 0 headband

I
I
2
2
2
2
2
I
I
I

PATTERN SHEET

A

black

Finish raw edge of waist casing
allowance. Measure and adjust elastic. to
fit child's waist (length of elastic = child's
waist minus 5...7 cm). St,itch ends of
elastic together to form closed loop. Mark
both elastic and waistlin!'! into quarters.
Pin and machine-baste
elastic to wrong
Waistline:

I

form closed loops. Finish raw sleeve edges.
Machine-baste elastic to wrong side of
sleeve-edge seam allowance, stretching
it firmly as you sew. Fold casing with
elastic to inside of sleeve and stitch it to
sleeve through all layers close to edge of
elastic.
Headband: Fold headband piece in half
lengthwise, right sides together. Stitch
long edges of headband piece together,
starting and finishing stitching 3 cm from
each end (= opening for turning headband
right side out). Turn headband right side
out. Pin and stitch ends of headband
together, right sides facing. Close opening
by. hand-stitching. Wrap taffeta ribbon
round headband and tie it in a bow.

Page 50

---

----

PATTERN PIECES
1

PATTERN PIECES

cui

I pants front

I
I
2
2
I

2 pants back
3 foot top
4 sole
S gusset

.
I

PATTERN SHEET A.green
side of waist casing allowance, to its outer
edge, aligningquarter marks. Fold waistline
casing allowance and elastic to wrong
side of pants and stitch casing to pants
.through all layers along bottom edge and
in the middle of elastic, stretc.hing elastic

as you sew.

FINISHING EDGES OF KNIT GARMENTS WITH BINDING
I. Pin and stitch one edge of binding to
garment's edge to be finished, right sides
together. Stretch binding slightly as you
sew and use stretch stitch!

2. Fold free edge of binding over to wrong
side of garment (binding strip is thus
folded in three when finished), pin it down
and topstitch it in place with double-

needle or zigzagfrom right side of garment
close to binding attachment seam.
3. Trim off excess seam allowance on
wrong

side of garment.

27

.
1

I

56/68 - 74/86 cm

7. Baby sleeping bag

Page 50

PATTERN PIECES

cut
shell lining

MATERIALS

- 75-80cm

cotton-blend

- 75-80 cm single jersey

- 2 snap fasteners for knit, 013 mm

- interfacing,Vlieseline
- 33-38cm organza
width

-

A

~.~.,i.

SEWING
Seams and hems: Stitch seams with
straight stitch and topstitch them using
presser-foot edge as guide.
Preparation:
Fuse pieces of interfacing
to front yoke and at snap placements on
back panel cut from fleece (see areas
shaded in grey in small-scale patterns).
Joining: Sew gathering stitches along one

edge of organza ribbon. Gather organza
ribbon, and pin and machine-baste it to
right side of bottom edge of front yoke.
Pin and stitch yoke and lower front panel
together; right sides facing. Fold seam
allowances toward yoke and topstitch
seam. Pin front and back shell panels
together, right sides facing, and stitch
bottom of sleeping bag.Stitch lining panels
together in the same way,leaving opening
in seam for turning sleeping bag right side

out. Insert shell and lining into one
another, right sides together, and stitch
their neckline, shoulder and armhole
edges together. Clip seam allowances
along curves and tUrn sleeping bag right
side out. Close opening in seam on lining.
Press neckline, shoulder and armhole
edges flat and topstitch them all around.
Attach snap fasteners to shoulders as
marked on pattern.

B

cut

PATTERN PIECES

I
2
2
2
2
2
I

1 front yoke
2 coverall front
3 coverall back
4 sleeve

5

foot

top

6 sole
7 snap-inseam underlap

2!-TT~
MATERIALS

- 50-55-65-70-80

cm
printed velour knit (A) OR
cotton- blend fleece (B)
- 5 cm ribbing (A) OR
interlock knit (B)
invisible zipper, length 30 cm

-

lill

- 12-13-14-15-16
cm

elastic,

- 15...20cm

stay tape,
Vlieseline@ Formband

-

10 cm interfacing,Vlieseline
G785
for knit,

- 4...6 snap fasteners
010mm

For design B also:

I~.I

pieces. Do not add seam allowances to
neckline and sleeve edges.

grey in small-scale

Design B: Cut snap-inseam underlap
from interlock knit and other garment
pieces from cotton-blend fleece as
indicated on list of pattern pieces. Do
not add seam allowances to neckline and
sleeve edges.

Sew gathering stitches along one edge of
organza ribbon. Gather organza ribbon,
and pin and machine-baste it to right side
of bottom edge of front yoke. Cut elastic
in half.Stitch elastics to wrong side of leg
backs as marked on pattern, stretching
them firmly as you sew.

DesignsA and B: Cut 4 cm wide strip
from ribbing (A) or interlock knit (B) for
finishing edges and cut following pieces
from it:
- 32-33-34-35-36
cm strip for neckline
- two 14.5-15-15.5-16-16.5 cm
strips for sleeve edges
Check length of bindings before sewing
as the stretch and recovery qualities of
different knits vary.
SEWING

width 4 mm

IIII

- 32...37 cm

organza ribbon.
width 15 mm
- approx. 20 pearlized beads,
Giitermann Rocailles 9/0

Seams and hems: Stitch seams with
straight stitch and finish them with serger
or zigzag stitch. Topstitch seams using
presser-foot edge as guide.

CUTTING
Design A: Cut garment pieces from
velour knit as indicated on list of pattern

9. Baby's snowsuit

Preparation: Fuse stay tapes to shoulder
seam allowances on back panels; see p.
35. Cut interfacings for areas shaded in

50-56-62-68-74-80

patterns

and fuse them

in place.

Front section: Pin coverall front panels
together, right sides facing,and stitch front
crotch seam. Pin and stitch front yoke
and coverall front together, right sides
facing. Fold seam allowances toward yoke
and topstitch seam.
Stitch shoulder seams and sleeves to
armholes.Finish neckline and sleeve edges
with binding, following illustrated
!nstructions on p.27.
Invisible zipper: Open invisible zipper
and press its coil flat with point of iron.
Pin one half of zipper to center-back
seam line, right sides together. Stitch zipper
in place close to coil and stop stitching
just before slider. Pin and stitch other half
of zipper in place in the same way. Stitch

cm

outerwear

fabric

- 60-70-75-85-95-105
cm striped

SH~T

~

velour

knit

and volume

fleece (80 glm2) OR quilted lining fabric
knit

- 15 cm soft fur

- 2 light-weight'overall zippers.length 40-40-45;45-50-50 cm
- snap fastener, 12).10 mm
- interfacirigPflieseline G785
- 240-260-280-300-320-340 cm stay tape,Vlieseline@ Formband
Embroidery: orange machine-embroidery thread, piece of
tear-away backing (Vlieseline@ Stickvlies) and piece of watersoluble embroidery stabilizer (ylieseline@ Soluweb)

Joining: Stitch sleeve underarm seams
and side seams. Stitch foot tops to bottom
edges of legfronts. Pin and stitch sole
panels to coverall's legs, right sides together.
Finishing: Attach snap fasteners to crotch
as marked on pattern. Design B:Attach
beads to yoke seam, on top of topstitching,
at approx. I cm intervals,byhand-stitching.

cut

1 front yoke

I

2
3
4
5
6

I
2
2
2
2

front center panel, shell
front side panel
back
sleeve
hood

-- --~

Lining Volume fleece Fur knit

7 zipper underlay
2
8 front center panel, lining9 sleeve cuff

2
2
2
2
2
I

2
2
2
2

10 bottom-leg cuff
11 trim for hood
@ bunny-rabbit

'~L1_I~N

28

orang~~

Snap crotch: Fold snap-inseam underlap
in half, wrong sides together, and pin and
stitch it to inseam edges on coverall back,
right sides together. Finish raw edge of
inseam self-facing on coverall front, fold
self-facingto inside and stitch it to coverall
front along its edge. Lay front snap-crotch
overlap on top of back snap-crotch underlap and machine-baste them together
along bottom edges of legs.

Shell

knit or light-weight

A

rest of back crotch seam. Fold ends of
zipper tapes over neck edge to wrong
side, flip zipper over right side up so that
ends of zipper tapes are concealed
between neckline binding and center-back
seam allowances, and stitch zipper tapes
to garment across width of neckline
binding.

PA.!I.!§Rt'~~IECES ~-

MATERIALS
cm velour
- 70-80-85-.90-100-110

lilac

50-56-62-68-74 cm

8. Baby coverall
A~

I

-

PATTERN SHEET

15 mm

Lining: Cut lining panels from single
jersey as indicated on list of pattern
pieces, using pattern pieces for front and
back as whole.

pieces.

I

-

G785
ribbon,

CUTTING

Shell: Cut up pattern for front into two
separate pattern pieces along marked
seamline. Cut shell panels from cottonblend fteece as indicated on list of pattern

-

I 3e front yoke
I
1 3e lower front panel I
2 back
I

1 front

fleece

embroidery

S~EET :If~ro"!,n-

2
2
I

~

..,.

11
Ch_U"'''''''U;>

[39
100

::::'.';0'1

ffi
.,

04

presser-foot edge as guide.
Stay tapes: Fuse stay tapes to seam allowances along zipper plackets on shell front
and front lining panels. If entire snowsuit
is cut from velour knit, fuse stay tapes
also to raglan seam edges on sleeves and
to bottom edge of front yoke.
Bunny-rabbit embroidery: Trace motif
from pattern sheet on water-soluble
embroidery stabilizer with air- or watersoluble marking pen. Pin embroidery
stabilizer to right side of yoke piece. Pin
piece of tear-away backing to wrong side
of fabric, behind area of motif. Place fabric
in embroidery hoop and machine-baste
outlines of motif with straight stitch.
Remove embroidery stabilizer. Embroider
bunny rabbit with narrow, short zigzag,
stitching along machine-basting. Remove
fabric from embroidery hoop, remove
tear-away backing and secure thread ends
carefully to wrong side.
Preparation:
Cut interfacing for front
yoke and fuse it in place. Fold and machinebaste pleats on front center panel as
marked on pattern. Stitch yoke to front
center panel, fold seam allowances toward
yoke and topstitch seam.
Volume fleece: Pin volume-fleece pieces
to wrong side of corresponding shell
pieces and machine-baste pieces together
along seam allowances.
Zipper underlays: Pin underlay pieces
together in pairs, right sides facing, and
stitch their curved edges. Turn underlays
right side out, topstitch their curved edges

UJGJ
6

.

5

~

CUTTING

Shell: Cut shell pieces from velour knit
or outerwear fabric. Cut piece of fabric
for front yoke with generous seam allowances, sew embroidery on it first and cut
actual yoke panel after embroidering.
Lining: Cut lining panels from striped
velour knit or quilted lining fabric.
Volume fleece: Cut pieces from volume
fleece with slightlywider seam allowances.
Fur knit: Cut sleeve cuffs and bottomleg cuffs as well as trim piece for hood
from fur knit.
SEWING
Seams and hems: Stitch seams with
straight stitch and topstitch them using

10. Eskimo parka

-

74-80-86-92-98-104 cm
sleeve edges and pocket flap. Fold pattern
piece for zipper shield in half lengthwise
and cut shield with this pattern from
fusible wadding without seam allowances.
SEWING
Seams and hems: Stitch seams with
straight stitch and topstitch them using
presser-foot edge as guide, unless otherwise instructed. No seam finish is
necessary as the garment is fully lined.
Preparation:
Iron pieces of fusible
wadding onto wrong side of corresponding shell pieces cut from outerwear
fabric.

MATERIALS

- 85-90-90-95-100-110cm
weight, windproof outerwear

lightfabric

(silicone-coated
cotton poplin)
p -80-85.-90-95-100-105
cm
cotton fur knit
- 110-115-120-125-150-160
cm
fusible wadding,Vlieseline
width 90 cm
¥~overall

H 630,

zipper,

1;rwll..55-60~0-6~~5-70
CI)1
CUTTING
Outerwear
fabric: Cut shell pieces
from outerwear fabric as indicated on
list of pattern pieces.
Fur knit: Cut off hem allowances from
pattern pieces for front and back panels
as well as for sleeves (marked with pencil
symbol on pattern pieces). Cut pieces
from fur knit as indicated on list of pattern
pieces. Do not add seam allowances to
bottom hem arlP sl~eve edges. Shake off
loose nap from. pieces before starting
sewing!
Fusible wadding: Cut off hem allowances from pattern pieces for front and
back panels as well as for sleeves (marked
with pencil symbol on pattern pieces).
Cut pieces from fusible wadding.as
indicated on list of pattern pieces. Do
not add seam allowances to bottom hem,

Pocket: Hem opening edge of pocket.
Sew ease stitching on seam allowance
along rounded corners of pocket, draw
up ease stitching slightly, and turn and
press seam allowances on pocket's edges
to wrong side. Double-topstitch pocket
to front shell panel as marked on pattern,
placing first row of topstitching close to
edge and second row I cm away from
first one. Fold pocket trim piece in half
and machine-baste it to side and bottom
edges of outer pocket flap piece (one
with fusible wadding), right sides together.
Pin and stitch pocket flap pieces together
along their side and bottom edges, right
sides facing,leaving straight top edge open.
Trim seam allowances, turn pocket flap
right side out and topstitch its side and
bottom edges in the same way as pocket's
edges. Pin and stitch pocket flap to front
shell panel above pocket with narrow
seam allowance, right sides together,
placing edge of pocket flap 5 mm up from
opening edge of pocket. Fold pocket flap
down right side out and topstitch it in
place along top edge so that seam allowances are concealed.
joining shell: Stitch and topstitch
shoulder seams. Stitch sleeves to armholes
and topstitch seams. Stitch sleeve underarm seams and side seams. Fold up and
press bottom hem and sleeve-edge hems
as marked on pattern. Stitch top seam of
hood from face edge to notch at corner.
Stitch hood to shell's neckline, right sides

one zipper tape at a time.At this stage,
shell and lining are inside out, and sleeves
and sleeve linings hang separately. One
edge at a time, pin and stitch edges of
zipper plackets on front side panels of
shell and lining together, right sides facing.

and machine-baste their open edges together. Machine-baste underlays to top
edges of front side panels of lining, right
sides together.
joining shell: Stitch front side panels to
front center panel, starting from bottom
edges of legs and stitching up to notches
for zippers, and press seams open. Stitch
center-back seam. Stitch sleeves to front
and back panels, fold seam allowances
toward sleeves and topstitch seams. Stitch
sleeve underarm seams and side seams.
Stitch leg inseams.
Sleeve edges and bottom edges of
legs: Stitch ends of each sleeve cuff and
bottom-leg cuff together; right sides facing,
to form closed loops. Fold cuffs in half
lengthwise, wrong sides together, and pin
and stitch them to sleeve edges and
bottom edges of legs, right sides together.
joining lining: Construct lining in the
same way as shell without topstitching.
Leave opening in one side seam for turning
snowsuit right side out.
Hood: Stitch shell hood panels together,
right sides facing. Repeat for hood lining
panels. Fold hood trim piece in half lengthwise, wrong sides together; and pin and
stitch it to hood's face edge as marked
on pattern. Place hood sections within
one another; right sides together, and stitch
face edges together.Turn hood right side
out.

Bring sleeve edges of shell and lining end
to end, line up edges and pin them together, right sides facing, and stitch. Stitch
shell and lining together in the same way
along bottom edges of legs.Turn snowsuit
right side out by pulling one sleeve or leg
at a time out through opening in lining's
side seam and inserting sleeve and leg
linings into shell sleeves and legs. Pull front
center section out through opening. Pin
and stitch edges of zipper plackets on
front center panels of shell and lining,as
well as top edge of shell yoke and lining,
together.Turn snow-suit right side out
and topstitch edges of zipper plackets and
top edge of front yoke. Close opening in
lining's side seam.
Machine-baste snowsuit's neckline seam
allowances together. Pin and stitch shell
hood to snowsuit's neckline, right sides
together.At each front corner of neckline,
place right side of hood lining along right
side of lining's neck edge and, working
from inside of hood, stitch along neckline
seam from each front corner toward
shoulder as far as possible. Take care that
no notches are formed at front corners!
Turn hood right side out and pin open
neck edge of hood lining to neckline and
stitch it in place by hand.

joining shell and lining: Pin and
machine-baste zippers to front placket
edges of shell,right sides together; attaching

7

Pages 6-7
together. Press top seam of hood open
and at the same time, turn center-back
seam allowances to wrong side and press
folds. Stitch ends of hood trim piece
together to form closed loop. Fold trim
piece in half lengthwise, wrong sides
together, and pin and stitch it to hood's
face edge.
joining lining: Stitch shoulder seams
and sleeves to armholes. Stitch sleeve
underarm seams and side seams. Stitch
top seam of hood from face edge to
notch at corner. Stitch hood to lining's
neckline, right sides together.
Zipper: Fold zipper shield piece in half
lengthwise, right sides together; and stitch
its ends. Turn shield right side out and
machine-baste its open edges together.
Pin zipper on top of shield-and stitch lefthand zipper tape to shield. Machine-baste
zipper to lining,with wrong side of zipper
facing right side of lining and with edge
of zipper shield in betWeen. Note that
zipper opens from bottom to top. Align
end of zipper with raw bottom edge of
lining.
joining shell and lining: Pin and stitch
face edges of shell hood and hood lining
together, right sides facing. Clip seam
allowances along curves. Turn garment
right side out, with shell right side out'
and lining in place inside it.Topstitch
hood's face edge. Push your-hand betWeen
shell and lining and pin and stitch front
necklines of shell and lining together.
Pin and stitch left-hand center-back edge
of shell to lining, right sides together and
with zipper and zipper shield in betWeen.
Stitch right-hand center-back edge of shell
to lining in the same way.Turn garment
right side out and topstitch edges of
zipper placket using presser-foot edge as
guide; open zipper before topstitching
and flip zipper shield out of the way when
topstitching right-hand edge.
Bottom hem and sleeve edges: Pin
and stitch bottom hem and sleeve-edge
hems, aligning edge of lining with shell's
foldlines.

@

@

:=J

/~
r:Fl CD
ru(}LJ

\."''''-~'uuuuu

PATTERN PIECES
Outerwear fabric
I front
2 back
3 sleeve
4 hood

S pocket
6 pocket flap
7 zipper shield
Furknit

I=

front

2 = back
3 = sleeve
4 hood
8 trim for hood
9 trim for pocket
Fusible wadding

I @ front
2 @ back
3 @ sleeve
4 hood
6 pocket flap
,

cut

I
2
2
I
I
2
I
I
2
2
1
I
I
I
2
2
I

1

PATTERN SH~ET A brown
29

-.

I I. Eskimo pants

74-80-86-92-98-104

cm

PATTERN PIECES

Pages 6-7

Shell
""'@''''''

10 pants front
iI'e upper pants front
iI'e lower pants front
I I pants back
iI'e side panel
iI'e seat panel
Lining
I0 @ pants front
I I @ pants back

10

@..

---

-,-_c_~,Shell:

, MATERIALS
- 55-60-65-70-75-80 cm.
,
tightly-woven, waterproof-treated'

I outerwear fabric
- 50-55-60-65-70-75cm

'

quilted lining fabric

- 45...53 cm

elastic,

width 20 mm
label to be inserted in side seam

-

~~~

CUTTING
Lining: Fold away waist casing allowances
as well as hem allowances at bottom
edges of legs on pattern pieces for pants
front and back. Cut pants front and back
panels from quilted lining fabric as
indicated on list of pattern pieces; do not
add seam allowances to waist edges and
bottom edges of legs.

Cut up patterns for pants front
and back into separate pattern pieces
along marked seam lines. Cut all shell
pieces from outerwear fabric as indicated
on list of pattern pieces.

Cut also 3 cm wide strips on the bias
for piping; measure required lengths on
pattern pieces.
SEWING
Seams and hems: Stitch seams with
straight stitch. No seam finish is necessary
as the garment is fully lined.
joining lining: Stitch leg inseams. Stitch
crotch seam. Stitch side seams.
Piping trims: Fold and 'press piping strips
in half lengthwise, wrong sides together,
and pin them to bottom edges of upper
pants front panels and to curved outer
eqges of seat panels, aligning open edges
of piping strip with edge of seam allow-

12. Faux shearling coat

,

2
2
2
2

,...@

ance. Machine-baste piping strips to pants
panels along their open edges and topstitch'them to panels along their folded
edges.

on elastic with center-front, center-back
and side seams, and machine-baste elastic
to waist casing by stitching-in-the-ditch
along pants seamlines from right side.

joining shell: Stitch panel seams on pants
front and back, fold seam allowances away
from piping and topstitch seams using
presser-foot edge as guide. Stitch leg
inseams. Stitch crotch seam with two
rows of stitching in order to reinforce it.
Machine-baste label to right-hand side
seam line as marked on pattern. Stitch
side seams. Press seams. Fold waist casing
allowance and hem allowances at bottom
edges of legs to wrong side as marked
on pattern and press. Turn pants right
side out.

joining shell and lining: Insert pants
lining into shell pants, wrong sides
together. Pin lining's waist edge under
shell's waist casing allowance. Turn seam
allowance on edge of casing under edge
of elastic and stitch casing down through
all layers close to edge, stretching elastic
as you sew.
Pin and stitch hems at bottom edges of
legs, aligning edge of lining with shell's
foldlines.

Waistline: Stitch ends of elastic together
to form closed loop and mark it into
quarters. Pin elastic to wrong side of
waist casing allowance, aligning its edge
with casing foldline.Align quarter marks

86-92-98-104-110-116

2
2

cm

Tip! If desired, the lower pants front
panels and the seat panels can be cut
from a double layer of fabric or from
heavy-duty fabric or they can be
reinforced with wadding for better
durability.

Page 5

7\P

LD 0=
3

MATERIALS
.90-95-105-110-115-120 cm
faux shearling
- 30 cm fine cord
- 4-4-4-5-5-5 snap fasteners,
12115mm

-

CUTTING

SEWING
Seams and hems: Stitch seams with
straight stitch and topstitch them using
presser-foot edge as guide. No seam finish
is necessary.

Cut also 3 cm wide binding strips on
the bias from fine cord. Cut binding strips
for finishing sleeve edges, outer edge of
collar and neckline. Measure required
lengths of bindirg. o~ pattern pieces and,
if necessary, join strips with seams. Note!
Since binding cut on true bias tends to
stretch when it is sewn, you can reduce
the measured lengths slightly.Remember
to add seam allowances to measured
lengths!

30

'..,~~-~_...

Cut garment pieces from faux shearling
as indicated on list of pattern pieces. Use
fur side of fabric as right side for collar.
Use sharp scissors or fur knife for cutting.
Cut pieces out one by one from suede
side of single layer of fabric, using tips of
scissors or knife and taking care not to
cut pile.Add I cm seam allowances.Do
not add seam allowances to front and
bottom edges of hem panels and to
pockets. Make sure when cutting out
pieces that pile runs downward on all of
them.

General instructions
for sewing faux
fur: Reduce bulk on seam allowances
and facings that are nor visible on finished
garment by shaving off pile. Use sharp
heavy-duty sewing needle.
Preparation:
Attach socket halves of
snap fasteners to right-hand front facing
as marked on. pattern, placing attaching
units of snaps on fur sfqe.
Pockets: Pin pockets to front panels as
marked on pattern and topstitch them
in place, stitching presser-foot width away
from edge.
Collar and neckline: Finish outer edge
of collar with bias binding as follows: Pin
and stitch one edge of binding to outer
edge of collar, with right side of binding
facing fur side of collar. Fold entire binding
over to suede side of collar, turn seam

2::>~
.""

""

._-,

PATTERN PIECES
I
2
3
4
5
6
7

front
front hem panel
back
back hem panel
sleeve
collar
pocket

2
2
I
I
2
I
2

. 'm2///

allowance on its free edge under, pin it
down carefully and topstitch it in place
close to edge (see illustration). Stitch and
topstitch shoulder seams. Pin collar to
neckline, suede sides together. Fold front
facings on top of collar and stitch neckline
seam. Clip seam allowances along curves
at neckline and trim them if necessary.
Leave front neckline corners inside out.
Pin and stitch bias binding to neckline'
seam on top of collar; right sides together,
with ends of binding slightl)' overlapping
front facings.Turn front neckline corners
right side out. Turn seam allowance on
other edge of binding under, pin turnedunder edge to neckline and stitch it down
close to edge.
Hem panels: Pin front and back hem
panels together, suede sides facing, and
stitch side seams. Stitch front bottomhem corners by mitering, fur sides
together.Turn bottom-hem corners right
side out, pin bottom hem and front-edge
hems to right side of hem panel and
topstitch them with straight stitch close
to edge.

joining: Stitch sleeves to armholes and
topstitch seams. Stitch sleeve underarm
seams and side seams. Pin hem panel to
garment, right sides together, aligningfront
edges of hem panel with foldlines of
garment's front facings. Fold front facings
on top of hem panel and stitch hem panel
to garment. Turn front facings to inside,
fold hem-panel seam allowances upward
and topstitch seam. Toptstitch garment's
front edges both presser-foot width away
and 4 cm away from edge.
Sleeve edges: Stitch ends of sleeve-edge
binding strips together to form closed
loops. Finish sleeve edges with binding in
the same way as outer edge of collar.
Finishing: Attach stud halves of snap
fasteners to left-hand front panel as
marked on pattern. Comb pile at outer
edge of collar, sleeve edges and bottom
hem lightly to conceal stitching.

~

'"

13.Velveteen dress
PATTERN PIECES

f--4

/

1

.

8

--"';i

-

MATERIALS
1- 90-100-110-120-125-130

cm

printed

stretch velveteen
gingham cotton poplin
1.0 cm interfacing,

- 35...40 cm

-

width

edge.

velvet ribbon,

16 mm

1-6 wooden

SEWING
Seams and hems: Stitch seams with
straight stitch and finish them with serger
or zigzag stitch. Topstitch seams close to

I Ylieseline HI80
160 cm taffeta ribbon,
width 10 mm

- 130...150 cm

seams. Note! Since binding cut on true
bias tends to stretch when it is sewn, you
can reduce the measured lengths slightly.

beads with large holes I

CUTTING
Cut sleeve bands from poplin and other
garment pieces from stretch velveteen
as indicated on list of pattern pieces. Do
not add seam allowances to outer edges
of collar pieces and placket edges of
bodice front panels. Cl!t also 4 cm wide
binding strips on the bias from cotton
poplin for finishing collar edges, front
placket edges and bottom hem. Measure
required lengths of binding on pattern
pieces and, if necessary, join strips with

14. Linen blouse

Preparation:
Cut interfacings for areas
shaded in grey in small-scale patterns and
fuse them in place. Cut taffeta ribbon into
eight equal-length pieces. Machine-baste
three pieces of ribbon to placket edge of
right bodice-front panel, another three
pieces to left bodice-front panel and two
pieces on top of each other to waist
seamline on right bodice-front panel as
marked on pattern.
Bodice: Stitch and topstitch shoulder
seams. Stitch sleeves to armholes and
topstitch seams. Stitch sleeve underarm
seams and side seams. Pin and stitch collar
pieces to neckline, with right side of
interfaced collar piece facing right side
of neck edge and right side of noninterfaced collar piece facing wrong side

I bodice front

2

2 bodice back
3 sleeve
4 sleeveband
5 collar
6 skirt tier a
7 skirt tier b
8 skirt tier c

2
2
2
2
2
2

I

;ATT~RN ~HE;T B -black

of neck edge. Fold collar up in position
and topstitch its bottom edge. Machinebaste open edges of collar pieces together.
Finish collar edges and front placket edges
with bias binding as follows: Stitch one
edge of binding to garment's edge, with
right side of binding facing wrong side of
garment, stitching less' than I cm away
from edge. Foldother edge of binding
over to right side of garment, turn its
seam allowance under, and stitch turnedunder edge to garment (see illustration).
Overlap bodice front panels, aligning
center-front notches, and machine-baste
their bottom edges together.
Sleeve edges: Stitch ends of each sleeve
band together to form closed loops. Pin
and stitch one edge of band to sleeve
edge, with right side of band facing wrong
side of sleeve. Fold band in half, wrong
sides together, turn seam allowance on
its free edge under and topstitch turnedunder edge to right sid~ of sleeve edge,
stitchingclose to edge of band.Cut two
26-26.5-27-27.5-28-28.5 cm pieces from
velvet ribbon for sleeve edges and stitch
ends of each piece together to form

86-92-98-' 04-11 0-116-122-128-134 cm

cut

closed loops. Pin and topstitch velvet
ribbons to sleeve edges, close to sleeve
band. along both edges.
Skirt section: Pin and stitch skirt tier
panels together in pairs along their short
edges (=side seams).Sew gathering
stitches along top edge of each skirt tier.
Gather skirt tier c, and pin and stitch it
to skirt tier b, right sides together. Fold
seam allowances toward skirt tier band
topstitch seam. Gather skirt tier band
stitch it to skirt tier a in the same way.
Stitch ends of bias binding together to
form closed loop and finish skirt's bottom
hem with binding in the same way as
front placket edges and collar edges.
Joining: Gather skirt to fit bodice. Pin
and stitch skirt to bodice, fold seam
allowances toward bodice and topstitch
seam. Stitch ends of velvet ribbon together
to form closed loop. Pin and topstitch
ribbon to bodice, close to waist seam,
along both edges.
Fi.nishing: Thread beads onto ribbons
inserted in waist seam and secure them
tightly so that the child cannot get them
off.

Pages 16-17

cut

PATTERN PIECES

5 I"':::"":::::::::::::::::::~

.

:j

2!~

:i

:i
:i

--- ---.
MATERIALS
- 60-65-70-75~80-90-95-1 00.105cm light-weight linen
,/.'.5 cminterfa-cing,
Vlieseline H 180

- 4...6 pearl buttons" 13mm
'machine-embroidery thread

l"",..; - -

-- -

CUTTING
Cut garment pieces from linen as indicated
on list of pattern pieces. Pattern for collar

binding* includes seam allowances.
SEWING
Seams and hems: Stitch seams with
straight stitch and finish them with serger

'~

I

t_--------

:

@
3

(::3
4.1

mu

or zigzag stitch. Topstitch seams close to
edge. The decorative
stitching on the
model garment is sewn on the Husqvarna
Viking Designer I machine using its Omnigram stitch K 17.The decorative
stitching
is sewn with machine-embroidery
thread
and its finished width is 18...20 mm.

Collar: Stitch collar pieces together, right
sides facing. Trim and taper seam allowances at corners and press seams open.
Turn collar right side out and press it flat
Iightly.Topstitch around collar close to
edge and machine-baste its open edges
together at the same time.

Preparation:
Cut interfacings
for areas
shaded in grey in small-scale patterns and
fuse them in place. Press folds on front
facings and at sleeve edges as marked on
pattern. Sew decorative stitching at sleeve
edges and on right front panel, placing it
approx. 5 mm from folded edge.

Pin and stitch collar to neck edge,aligning
ends of collar with center-front notches.
Fold front facings on top of collar, turn
seam allowances on outer edges of facings
to their final position (i.e. to wrong side
of facing) and stitch front neckline corners.
Clip seam allowances along curves at
,
neckline and trim them if necessary. Leave
front neckline corners inside out.

Joining:
Stitch and topstitch
shoulder
seams. Stitch sleeves to armholes
and
topstitch
seams. Stitch sleeve underarm
seams and side seams. Sew hems at sleeve

edges.

I front'
2 back
3 sleeve
4 collar
5 collar binding*

2
I
2
2
I

-----

.fATLERN SH~

B bl,!~

front facings.Turn front neckline corners
right side out. Turn seam allowance

on

other edge of collar binding under, pin
turned-under
edge to neckline
it down close to edge.

and stitch

Front edges and hemline:
Fold up and
press bottom hem as marked on pattern.
Miter corners
at front hemline (do not
stitch across seam allowance at corner;

see illustration).Turn and pin seam allowances on edges of front facings and on
bottom

hem edge under

turned-under

and topstitch

edges to garment close

to

edge.

Finishing: Work buttonholes and sew
on buttons.

Pin and stitch collar binding to neckline
seam on top of collar, right sides together,
with ends of binding slightly overlapping

31

86-92-98-104-1 10-116-122-128-134 cm

15. Lace knit jacket

Pages 16-17

MATERIALS

- 50-

0-70-75-80-85-90

lace-knit,
cm
- 20...25 cm clear elastictape,
width 4 mm,Framilon@

2

- 60 cm taffeta ribbon, width 10 mm

'.h

. machine-embroiderythread
"""
~~CUTTING
Cut garment piecesfrom knitas indicated
on list of pattern pieces.
SEWING
.

Seams and hems: Stitch seams with
serger, or with overedge stretch stitch
on regular sewing machine.Stitch hems
from right side of garment with suitable

decorative overedge stitch on regular
sewing machine or with flatlock stitch,
using embroidery thread.
joining: Steam-press hems at sleeve
edges as marked on pattern and stitch
them. Machine-baste pieces of clear elastic
tape to shoulder seam allowances on
back panels; measure required lengths of
tape on pattern piece and add seam allow-

16. Bell-shaped skirt

86-92-98-104-1

{~0
Lfj
I

ances. Stitch shoulder seams and sleeves
to armholes. Stitch sleeve underarm seams
and sioe seams. Steam-press seams lightly
through ironing cloth.
Neckline, bottom hem and front
edges: Steam-press hems at neckline and
bottom hem as marked on pattern and
stitch them. Turn front facings to wrong
side, and steam-press and stitch them.

10-116-122-128-134
---n-nnmmmm~

cm

SEWING
Seams and hems: Stitch seams with

I7. Boy's vest

straight stitch and finish them with serger
or zigzag stitch.
joining: Stitch side seams of both
garment and lining. Finish bottom hem of
garment with serger rolled hem or with
short, narrow zigzag. Fold up, press and
stitch bottom hem of lining as marked
on pattern.
Waistband:

Measure and adjust elastic

86-92-98-104-110-116-122-128

to fit child's waist (length of elastic =
child's waist minus 7...9 cm). Stitch ends
of both elastic and waistband together
to fo~m closed loops. Fold waistband in
half, wrong sides together, as marked on
pattern and pin elastic inside waistband.
Stitch casing on waistband, stitching close
to edge of elastic and using zipper foot.
Sew another row of stitching on waistband, stitching through all layers in the

cm

._~-~'-!

L.1t~I[E~t~ct_.";
Finishing: Cut taffeta ribbon in half.
Attach taffeta ribbons to neckline corners
on garment's front by hand-stitching.
Secure thread ends of flatlock stitching
neatly by hand.

Garment
4 @ front- and back skirt panel I+ I
5 back skirt panel
I
Lining
1+1
4 front- and back skirt panel

middle of elastic and stretching elastic as
you sew.
Sew gathering stitches along waist edges
of both garment and lining and gather
waist edges to fit waistband. Pin and stitch
waistband to garment's waist, right sides
together, aligning center-front and centerback notches. Pin and stitch lining to
waistband in the same way.

-"---~--~-

Pages 58-59

cut
Corduroy
I front

MATERIALS

10-45-45-50-50-50
cm

I @ front facing

corduroy
10-40-45-45-50-50 cm
lining satin
- 30...45 cm interfacing,
Vlieseline H 180
- 4...5 buttons, Cl 15 mm

Lining satin
I @ front

2 back
3 tie string

1+1
2
2
1+1
2

J:AL~~~~~:
CUTTING
Corduroy: Trace pattern for front facing
from pattern for front panel. Cut garment
pieces from corduroy as indicated on list
of pattern pieces. Take note of grainlines
on pattern piece for front panels.

I

J

Lining satin: Trace separate pattern
piece for front lining from pattern for
front panel. Cut piec;es from lining satin
as indicated on 'list of pattern pieces.
SEWING
Seams and hems: Stitch seams with
straight stitch and topstitch them close
to edge.

32

Preparation:
Fuse interfacings to front
facings and to one back panel (=outer
back panel on finished garment).
Tie strings: fold and press tie string
strips in haif lengthwise,turn seam
allowances on long edges and one end
in, and topstitch tie strings close to edge.
Machine-baste tie strings to outer back
panel as marked on pattern.
joining: Stitch front facings to front lining
panels and und.erstitch seam allowances
tolining. Pin and stitch side seams of both
garment and lining. Fold seam allowances
on garment toward front panel and topstitch seams. Press seam allowances on
lining toward back panel.

joining garment
and lining: Pin
garment and lining together, right sides
facing. Stitch armholes of garment and
lining together (note that shoulder seams
are not stitched yet). Stitch necklines,
front edges and bottom hems together,
leaving opening in straight part of bottom
hem for turning vest right side out. Clip
armhole and neckline seam allowances
along curves. Trim and taper corners and
clip corner on back panel to stitching.
Turn vest right side out and press its
edges flat carefully. Push your hand
between garment and lining through
opening at bottom hem to reach shoulder
edge of back panel. Take hold of both
back and front shoulder edge and insert

..

...

.5

Garment

Cut garment pieces from polyester and
lining pieces from linen batiste as indicated
on list of pattern pieces. Mark centerfront and center-back points with notches
on waist seam allowances.

2
I
2

Pages. 16-17

4

CUTTING

I front
2 back
3 sleeve

front shoulder into back shoulder, right
sides together, and stitch shoulder seam.
Press seam open and spread seam allowances out on both sides of shoulder seam.
See illustration, page 42. Stitch the other
shoulder seam in the same way.Turn vest
right side out.Topstitch armholes and
bottom hem, closing opening at the same
time.
Finishing: Work buttonholes and sew
on buttons; place topmost and bottom
buttonhole as marked on pattern and the
rest at regular intervals. Tie tie strings at
back.

18.Corduroy knickerbockers

B~

-- ~
MATERIALS
-.50-50-55-55-60 cm
wide-wale corduroy
- 20 cm fine cord for pockets
10 cm interfacing,Vlieseline H 180
pants zipper, length 10 cm

- I jeans

.
..

button, 11118 mm

- 10 cm Velero tape, width
CUTTING

20 mm

stitch front crotch seam as far as notch
for zipper placket.Apply zipper to placket.
following illustrated instructions for flyfront zipper on pattern sheet D.
Front waistline: Machine-baste belt
loops to waist seamline on pants front
panels, half way along waist edge. Fold
waistband in half, wrong sides together,
and press. Stitch inside pottom edge of
waistband to wrong side of pants waistline. Stitch center-front ends of waistband.
Trim and taper seam allowances at front
corners and turn corners right side out.
Pin and stitch other edge of waistband
to right side of pants waistline and topstitch around waistband close to edge at
the same time.

Cut inner leg-pocket pieces, facing for
opening edge of pocket and fly shield
from fine cord and other garment pieces
from wide-wale corduroy as indicated on
list of pattern pieces.Take note of grainline
on pattern pieces! Pattern for facing for
opening edge of pocket* includes seam
allowances.
Cut also 3 cm x 35 cm strip from
corduroy for belt loops.
SEWING
Seams and hems: Stitch seams with
straight stitch and finish them with serger
or zigzag stitch. Double-topstitch seams.

Belt loops: Serge or zigzag one long
edge of belt loop strip, fold and pin strip
in three, and double-topstitch in the
middle. Cut strip into five pieces.

Back waistline: Stitch back crotch seam.
Finish raw edge of back-waist casing
allowance. Measure and adjust elastic to
fit child's waist (length of elastic half of
child's waist minus 4..6 cm). Lay elastic
along back-waist casing allowance, to
wrong side of pants, and machine-baste
its ends to side seam allowances.

Zipper: Finish raw edges of crotch seam
allowances on pants front panels and

Joining: Pin side seams together, right
sides facing, and fold back-waist casing

Preparation:
Cut interfacings for areas
shaded in grey in small-scale patterns and
fuse them in place. Finish raw edges of'
side seam allowances along vents.

=

19. Corduroy pants

cm

86-92-98-104-110

Pages 58-59

mj7
2

6arn
V!!::,;::::,,~_..

ClfJ
\.L)
~

, ~..m..m.~m";";1
,....

allowance with elastic over on top of
pants front waist. Stitch side seams as far
as notches for vents. Turn back-waist
casing right side out and topstitch casing
to pants back through all layers along
bottom edge and in the middle of elastic,
stretching elastic as you sew. Press folds
at edges of side vents as marked on
pattern and stitch vent edges.
Leg pockets: Pin and stitch facing strip
to opening edge of outer pocket piece,
right sides together. Clip seam allowances
and turn facing to wrong side of pocket
piece. Turn seam allowance on free edge
of facing under and topstitch turnedunder edge to pocket close to edge.
Place inner pocket pieces right sides
together and insert outer pocket piece
in between them. Pin and stitch edges of
pocket pieces together, leaving small
opening in straight edge for turning pocket
right side out. Trim and taper seam
allowances around corners, turn front
pocket right side out and press it. Doubletopstitch curved edge of pocket. Pin and
double-topstitch pockets along their top
edges to pants legs as marked on pattern,

cm

92-98-104-110-116-122-128

- 70-75-80-85-85-90-95cm
stretchy fine-wale corduroy
- 20...25 cm light-weight cotton
for pocket facings
5 cm interfacing,

-Vlieseline

G785
zipper, length 10-10-1012-12-12-12 cm
- jeans button, 11118 mm

:

The pattern is a regular-size pattern. The
pants are close-fitting and narrow-legged.
CUTTING
Cut pocket facings and fly shield from
cotton fabrii::'ofud9ther garment pieces
from corduroy as indicated on list of
pattern pieces. Cut also 3 cm x 35 cm
strip from corduroy for belt loops.
SEWING
Seams and hems: Stitch seaplS with
straight stitch and finish them with serger
or zigzag stitch. Double-topstitch seams.
Interfacing:

Cut interfacing for

waistband piece and fuse it in place in
area shaded in grey in small-scale patterns.
Front-hip pockets: Stitch pocket facing
to edge of pocket opening, right sides
together. Clip seam allowances to stitching
line at corner. Understitch seam allowances to pocket facing.Turn pocket facing
to inside and topstitch pocket opening.
Pin pocket piece to pocket facing, right
sides together, and stitch bottom of
pocket. Machine-baste edges of pocket
to waistline and side seam allowances.
Pants backs: Stitch back yokes to pants
backs, fold seam allowances toward yokes
and topstitch seams. Hem opening edges
of back pockets and topstitch pockets to
pants backs as marked on pattern.

2
2
2
2+2
2

pants front
pants back
bottom-leg band
inner pocket piece
outer pocket piece
facing for opening
edge of pocket*
7 waistband

I

I

PATTERN

I
S-H~ET- C

bl:e -

closing opening at the same time.

Bottom edges of legs: Stitch leg
inseams. Sew gathering stitches along
bottom edges of legsand gather edges
to fit bottom-leg bands.Pin and stitch
right side of non-interfaced edge of
bottom-leg bandto wrong side of bottom
edge of leg. Fold bottom-leg band in half
lengthwise,right sidestogether, and stitch
its both endsand top edge on pantsfront
side as far as notch for vent.Trim and
taper seam allowancesaround corners
and turn bottom-leg band right side out.
Turn seam allowance on free edge of
band under and pin turned-under edge
to bottom edge of leg.Topstitch around
band close to edges.
Cut Velcro tape into two equal-length
pieces and stitch tapes to bottom-leg
bands as marked on pattern.

Finishing: Stitch belt loops to back waist
as shown in design sketch.Stitchtop ends
of b.elt loops at front to waistband.Work
buttonhole and sew on button as marked
on pattern.

n...:6
cut

PATTERN PIECES

7rn

(:rJ

- pants

ABOUT DESIGN

I
2
3
4
5
6

Pages 8-9

~---MATERIALS

cut

8 fly shield

~ ~m..I

O;;

PATTERN PIECES

GIJ
Joining: Stitch leg inseams, fold seam
allowances toward pants backs and
topstitch seams. Stitch crotch seam as
far as notch for zipper placket. Apply
zipper to placket, following illustrated
instructions for fly-front zipper on pattern
sheet D.Topstitch crotch seam. Stitch side
seams. Fold side seam allowances toward
pants back and topstitch, each side seam
from waistline to bottom edge of front
pocket.
Belt loops: Serge or zigzag one long
edge of belt loop strip, fold and pin strip
in three, and double-topstitch in the
middle. Cut strip into five pieces. Machinebaste ends of belt loops to waist seamline,
right sides together, as shown in design

2
2
2
2
2
2

I pants front
2 back yoke
3 pants back
4 pocket piece
4 @ pocket facing
5 back pocket
6 waistband
7 fly shield

I

~ ~-

.. -

I

C r~d

PATTERN S~HEE1..
sketch.

Waistline: Fold waistband in half,wrong
sides together, and press. Stitch inside
bottom edge of waistband to wrong side
of pantswaistline. Stitch center-front ends
of waistband. Trim and taper seam
allowances around corners and tUrn
center-front ends of waistband right side
out. Pin and stitch other edge of waistband
to right side of pants waistline and
topstitch around waistband at the same
time. Stitch free ends of belt loops to top
edge of waistband.
Finishing: Hem bottom edges of pants
legs.Work buttonhole and sew on button
as marked on pattern.

33

-

.

i

F

104-1 10-116-122-128-134-140-146-152

20. Reefer jacket

cm

Pages 8-9
Wooffabric
I front
I §> front facing
2 back
3 upper sleeve
4 under sleeve
5 upper collar
6 under collar
7 pocket welt
Liningsatin
I §> front
2 e back
3 e upper sleeve
4 e under sleeve

"11'11
1[

1I

11
11

Cottonfabric
8 e outer pocket bag
8 inner pocket bag

I11

"'"11

I

2
2
I
2
2
I
I
2
2
I
2
2

,

2
2

.....I

~PATTERN
S!1'~~'~~]
of collar with center-front notches. Clip
neckline seam allowances along curves.

x 10 cm strip from lining sating for hanging

loop.

joining lining: Stitch front facings to
front lining panels, right sides together.
Stitch ease pleat at center back approx.
15 cm up from bottom hem and approx.
10 cm down from neckline, and press
pleat. Stitch shoulder seams. Pin upper
sleeve and under sleeve together, right
sides facing, and stitch back seam of each
sleeve. Pin and stitch sleeves to armholes.
Stitch sleeve underarm seams and side
seams; leave opening in one side seam
for turning jacket right side out.

Pockets: Cut pocket bags from cotton
fabric as indicated on list of pattern pieces.
SEWING
Seams and hems: Stitch seams with
straight stitch and topstitch them using
presser-foot edge as guide. No seam finish
is necessary as the garment is fully lined.
Sew topstitching as well as buttonholes
and buttons with thread in the color of
lining satin.
Preparation:
Cut interfacings for areas
shaded in grey in small-scale patterns and
fuse them in place.
CUTTING
Wool fabric: Trace pattern piece for
front facing from pattern for jacket front.
Cut garment pieces from wool fabric as
indicated on list of pattern pieces.
Lining satin: Trace separate pattern
pieces for lining panels marked with pencil
symbol, observing markings on small-scale
patterns and pattern sheet. Garment's
foldline at bottom hems of front and back
panelsas wellas at sleeveedges cutting
line for lining panels. Cut pieces from
lining satin as indicated on list of pattern
pieces. Place pattern piece for back lining
panel on fabric so that its center-back
edge lies 2 cm from folded edge of fabric
in order to provide extra ease on lining
(see small-scale patterns). Cut also 3 cm

=

Hanging loop: Fold hanging-loop strip
in half, turn its seam allowances in and
topstitch its edges. Machine-baste hanging
loop to neckline of back lining panel.

Front pockets: Construct pockets
following illustrated instructions on p.44.

Intermediate
press: Steam-press
garment and lining carefully before
continuing. Fold up and press garment's
bottom hem and sleeve-edge hems as
marked on pattern. Turn both garment
and lining inside out.

Collar: Pin collar pieces together, right
sides facing, and stitch their curved outer
edges together. Press seams open, turn
collar right side out and press it flat lightly.
Topstitch around collar and machinebaste its lower edges together.

(Shoulder
pads: Pin sh.oulder pads in
place on shoulders and stitch them by
hand to lining's armhole seam allowances
and shoulder seam allowances.)

joining garment: Stitch shoulder seams,
fold seam allowances toward back panel
and topstitch seams. Pin upper sleeve and
under sleeve together, right sides facing,
and stitch back seam of each sleeve. Fold
seam allowances toward upper sleeve
and topstitch seam. Stitch sleeves to
armholes and topstitch seams. Stitch
sleeve underarm seams and side seams.
Stitch collar to neck edge, aligning ends

21. Patchwork dress

joining garment
and lining: Pin
garment and lining together, right sides
facing, and stitch their front edges and
necklines together. Stitch also a few
centimeters from each bottom front
corner along bottom hemline. Trim and

122- 128- 134-140-146

cm
5

~i'
11.

w~_~I"

c:IIJ

cv
I

6

I

7
.1

]

8
34
"

Finishing: Pin sleeve-edge hems and
bottom hem in place. Pull sleeve edges
out one at a time through opening in
lining's side seam and sew sleeve-edge
hems by hand with catch stitch. Stitch
bottom hem in the same way.Anchor
lining to garment with small French tacks
stitched to armpit seam allowances. Close
opening in lining's side seam by handstitching. Steam-press front edges and
topstitch them from bottom hem to
neckline corner of collar. Secure thread
ends neatly.
Buttons: Work keyhole buttonholes on
left front panel as marked on pattern.
Sew buttons on right front panel, working
thread through holes to form cross.

Pages 56-57

u3[J
i

I
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9

2
bodice front
I
bodice back
2
sleeve
sleeve cuff
2+2
2
collar
2
skirt tier a
2
skirt tier b
2
skirt tier c
center piece of embellishment I

J

1
i

j

.

Bring sleeve edges of garment and lining
end to end, line up edges and pin them
together, right sides facing, and stitch
(note that sleeve and sleeve lining are not
placed within one another). Turn jacket
right side out through opening in lining's
side seam.

2,

CID

I

taper seam allowances around corners.
Pin and stitch bottom hem of lining to
bottom hem of garment, right sides
together. Start pinning in the middle of
back panel and pin up extra length on
lining gradually before reaching bottom
corner of front facing (see illustration on
p.42).

~

[
CUTTING
Bodice and sleeves: Cut inner cuff
pieces from turquoise fine cord and other
pieces from black fine cord as indicated
on list of pattern pieces. Do not add seam
allowances to outer edges of collar pieces
and to front edges of bodice panels.
Skirt: Cut tWo strips, 21-22-23-24-25
cm in height,from each fabric across
entire width of fabric. Cut strips into 13
cm wide and 17 cm wide pieces. Actual
hem tiers are cUt after joining these pieces
into blocks.

'\

Cut also 4 cm wide binding strips on the
bias as follows: from turquoise fine cord
for finishing collar edges ar)d front edges
and from black fine cord for finishing - .
bottom hem.

,/

Measure required lengths of binding on
pattern pieces and, if necessary, join strips
with seams. Note! Since binding cut on
true bias tends to stretch when it is sewn,

you can reduce the measured lengths
slightly.
SEWING
Seams and hems: Stitch seams with
straight stitch and finish them with serger
or zigzag stitch.Topstitch seams close to
edge.
Preparation:
Cut interfacings for areas
shaded in grey in small-scale patterns and
fuse them in place; note that interfacing
is only fused to cuff pieces cut from black
fine cord (=outer cuff pieces). Cut each
piece of taffeta ribbon in half. Machinebaste three ribbons in different colors to
front edge of right bodice panel and the
remaining three to left bodice panel as
marked on pattern.
Skirt tiers: Arrange pieces of velvet
ribbon freely on skirt patchwork pieces,
and pin and topstitch them in place. Pin
and stitch patchwork pieces together in
free arrangement into blocks, alternating

22.Viscose blouse

pieces of different colors and widths, and
finish seam allowances. Fold all seam
allowances toward same direction and
topstitch seams. Cut skirt tiers a, band
c from blocks as indicated on list of
pattern pieces.
Bodice:
no. 13.

Follow instructions for design

Sleeve cuffs: Stitch cuff pieces together
in pairs, right sides facing.Trim and taper
seam allowances around corners and
press seams open. Turn cuffs right side
out and press them flat lightly.Topstitch
around cuff close to edge and machinebaste its open edges together at the same
time. Pin and stitch cuffs to sleeve edges,
right sides together. Finish seam allowances, fold them toward sleeve and topstitch seam usingpresser-foot edge as
guide.
Skirt section: Follow instructions for
design no. 13.

92-98-104-110-116-122-128-134-140-146

Joining: Gather skirt to fit bodice. Pin
and stitch skirt to bodice, fold seam
allowances toward bodice and topstitch
seam.
Embellishment:
Finish raw edges of
embellishment center-piece. Fold 7 mm
deep pleats on velvet ribbon and machinebaste them in place close to edge of
ribbon. Pin pleated velvet ribbon to edge
of embellishment center-piece so that it
overlaps and conceals seam allowance,
and stitch it in place. Pin and stitch yellow
taffeta ribbon in the middle of center
piece in the same way. Fold turquoise
taffeta ribbon into small rosette and stitch
it to the center of embellishment. Sew
button on top of turquoise rosette.Attach
embellishment to dress's front with safety
pin so that it can be removed before
wash.

cm

Page 14

f~;:-ERIAL;--- - -- 50.55-55-65-70-75-80-95-100-

PIECES
cut
--PATTERN
-- --------..

-I 110 cm stretchy single jersey
(viscose/elastane), width 140 cm

- 20...25 cm

I

I
2
3
4

stay tape,

Vlieseline@ Formband
elastic thread (suitable for
bobbin thread)
1- 120.. .130 cm taffeta ribbon,
width 10 mm

-

------CUTTING
Cut garment pieces from knit as indicated
on list of pattern pieces. Do not add seam
allowances to neckline and edges of neckline slit. Pattern for neckline binding*
includes seam allowances. Cut also 2 cm
x 9 cm binding strip for finishing edges
of neckline slit. Mark placement of
elasticized shirring on front panel by handbasting. Starting point of topmost row of
shirring as well as length of rows are
marked on pattern.

SEWING
Seams and hems: Stitch seams with

.

Neckline: Stitch and topstitch shoulder
seams. Finish neckline with binding in the
same way as slit (place first stitching 8
mm from neck edge). Leavecenter-back
seam allowances at both ends of binding
and, to finish off, turn seam allowances
to wrong side of slit and machine-baste
them in place. Pin taffeta ribbon to neckline, folding approx. 4 mm deep pleats on

Neckline slit: Pin one edge of slit binding
to slit edge, with right side of binding

.

.

.

.

.
.

and par~Jlel. -

To finish Oft;secure

thread

ends carefully.

STAY TAPE
,.

1

Preparation: Fuse stay tapes to shoulder
seam allowances on back panels; see
bottom of page.

SHIRRING

Wind sewing machine bobbin with
elastic thread by hand, stretching thread
siightly.
Stitch with regular straight stitch,
adjusting stitch length to 2.5.. .3.5 and
decreasing needle thread tension slightly.
Sew stitching from right side of
garment, placing rows of shirring
7...10 mm apart.
Pull fabric taut as you sew to make
sure that rows of shirring will be straight

\

facing wrong side of slit, and stitch binding
in' place 5 mm from slit edge, stretching
binding slightly as you sew. Foldother
edge of binding over to right side of slit,
turn its seam allowance under. and stitch
turned-under edge to slit close to edge.

I
I
2
I

C ~a.!lg~~

it at I cm intervals. Leave 20 cm long free
ends on ribbon for tie strings. Topstitch
taffeta ribbon to neckline, stitching in the
middle of ribbon across pleats.
Joining: Sew gathering stitches along
sleeve caps as marked on pattern. Gather
sleeve caps, stitch sleeves to armholes
and topstitch seams. Stitch sleeve underarm seams and side seams. Fold up, press
and stitch bottom hem. Finish sleeve edges
with narrow serger stitch or narrow,
short zigzag, stretching sleeve edge as
you sew to produce lettuce edge.

.

ELASTICIZED

.

~T!RNMSHEET

serger, or with overedge stretch stitch
on regular sewing machine. Topstitch
seams close to edge. Stitch bottom hem
with serger coverstitch or on regular
sewing machine using double-needle or
suitable decorative overedge stitch.

Elasticized shirring: Make elasticized
shirring on front panel and at sleeve edges
following illustrated instructions, see
below.

front
back
sleeve
neckline binding*

""'"

'-.;::'~~~~
.C"'.'"
,...,...
.,...
"""'"''''''''''''''''
'...n
"..
.. .. ..,.,
.. . ..
..,......

Vlieseline@ Formband

Designs no. 22 and 32

Shirring will not show straight after
the first line of stitching and shirred
area is gathered to its finalwidth only
after steaming it lightly with an iron.
Experiment with shirring on a scrap
of fabric before starting!

Front panel (design no. 22) or sleeve
(design no. 32): Start stitching from
top right corner of area to be shirred
and sew short backstitching at the
beginning of row. Stitch to the end of
row, turn and continue to next row

~

without cutting thread in betWeen rows
of shirring. Stitch a total of six rows of
shirring presser-foot width apart from
each other.

.......--

Sleeve edges: Start a.nd finish stitching
on seam allowance an~ leave long thread
ends. Stitch a total of three rows of
shirring presser-foot width apart from
each other.

To stabilize the shoulder seams, you can
use either narrow strips cut from a knit
or woven fabric in a non-stretch direction
or ready-made non-woven fusible stay
tape (Vlieseline@ Formband).

Measure the length of the back shoulder
seam on the pattern. Add seam allowances and cut required lengths of stay
tape. Fuse or machine-baste the tapes
to the wrong side of the back shoulder
seam allowances.

35
---

23. Gathered panne velvet skirt

---

92-98-104-110-116-122-128-134-140-146

-~-

MATERIALS
- 35-35-65-70-75-80-85-90-95-95-100
panne velvet
- 185...215cm velvet ribbon. width
- 47.. .58 cm elastic. width 20 mm

cm

crushed

10 mm

- 85-90-95-100-105-110-115-120-125-130

- - --

cm

SEWING
Seams and hems: Stitch seams with
straight stitch and finish them with serger
or zigzag stitch.
Preparation:
Cut two 43.6-44.4-45.246-46.8-47.6-48.4-49.2-50-50.8
cm and
two 47-48-49-50-51-52-53-54-55-56
cm
pieces from velvet ribbon. Mark placement
of gathering stitches on wrong side of
skirt panels with tailor's chalk or by handbasting. Mark center-front and centerback points with notches on waist seam

allowances and bottom-hem seam allowances.

§

=

joining: Pin and stitch side seams. Sew
gathering stitches along skirt's waist edge
in the same ~
as above and gather
waiSt edge to fit waistband Pin and stitch

.

92-98-104-110-116-122-128-134-140-146
MATERIALS

ItO,115"120-125-130-140-145-155-165-170
cm
wool or wool-blend fabric. width 140 cm

- 70.75-85-95-100-105-120-135-145-150
cm

.

linipg satin, width 140 an
298rnF.!ghtly-woven cotton fabric for
pocket bags .
- 40 50 cm interfacing.V1ieseIine G 700,
wicJth 90 cm (mec:liur&-weight.woven)
- 39;. AO.cm interfadng, Vlieseline G 785,
width

90 cm (light-weight.

- 4...5 buttons,I!I20 mm

PATTERN PIECES

cut

I skirt panel
2 waistband

I+ I
I

-;HE~TIf lilac

waistband to skirt's waist, right sides
together, aligning center-front and centerback notches.
Hemline: Finish raw edge of bottom
hem. Stitch ends of narrower elastic together to form closed loop and mark it
into quarters. Pin and machine-baste
elastic to wrong side of bottom-hem
seam allowance, aligning quarter-point
marks with center-front and center-back
marks and side seams and stretching
elastic firmly as you sew. Fold up hem
with elastic to wrong side and stitch
through all layers using presser-foot edge
as guide.

cm

---

- - --

Page 14

- - -- -"---

- P~T;;N

Waistband:
Measure and adjuSt elastic
to fit child's waist ~ength of elastic
child's waist minus 7_9 an). Stitch ends
of both elastic and waistband together
to form closed loops. Fold waistband in
half, wrong sides together; as marked on
pattern and pin elastic inside waistband.
Stitch casing on waistband. stitching close
to edge of elastic and using zipper foot.
Sew another raw of stitching on waistband, stitching through all layers in the
middle of elastic and su-etching elastic as
you sew.

Gathering: Sew gathering stitches on
skirt panels as fotlows: decrease needle
thread tension. increase stitch length and
sew two rows of gathering stitches
presser-foot width apart from each other
from wrong side of fabric. Pull on bobbin
threads on right side of fabric, gathering
upper rows of stitching on both front
and back skirt panel to match shorter
pieces of velvet ribbon and lower rows
of stitching to match longer pieces of
velvet ribbon. Distribute gathering evenly.
Pin pieces of velvet ribbon on top of
gathering stitches and topstitch in place
along both edges.

24. Girl's wool coat

,----------I

i

t------------

elastic. width 6 mm

Cut garment pieces from knit as indicated
on list of pattern pieces.
.

!2

f...mm

cm

Pages 14-15

(;l

~8

~
~

~

;;1':

CD 10

~0
5

2

knit)

- 2 buttons, I!I 15 mm
- 4;),5 reinforcing bUttt>l15.I!1 12 mm

- -ABOUT

DESIGN

The coat has fake pocket flaps inserted
in the yoke seams. The actUal pockets are
inserted in the side seams.
CUTTING
Wool fabric (garment):
Cut garment
pieces from wool fabric as indicated on
list of pattern pieces. Cut inner pocketflap pieces with slightly narrower seam
allowances.
Lining: Cut pieces from lining satin as
indicated on list of pattern pieces. Sleeve
edges of lining are cut along of garment's
sleeve-edge foldline. Cut also 4 cm x 10
cm strip for hanging loop.
Pockets:
fabric.

Cut pocket bags from cotton

SEWING
Seams and hems: Stitch seams with
straight stitch and topstitch them using
presser-foo"t e!fge as guide. Finish seams
of coat's lower section with serger.

11""

Interfacing: Cut interfacings for areas
shaded in grey in small-scale patterns and
fuse them in place; note that interfacing
is only fused to outer pocket-flap pieces.
Use light-weight interfacing,(G 785) for
front and back yokes and medium-weight
interfacing (G 700) for other areas.
Preparation:

36

Sew rows of ease-stitching

along sleeve caps as marked on pattern.
Pull bobbin threads of ease-stitching
slightly and shape sleeve caps by steampressing them lightly.Pin pocket-flap pieces
together in pairs, right sides facing, and
stitch their curved outer edges.Trim seam
allowances, turn flaps right side out and
steam-press them Iightly.Topstitch edges.
joining garment: Stitch front side panels
to front center panels and back side
panels to back center panel. Finish seam
allowances, fold them toward center
panels and topstitch seams. Machine-baste
pocket flaps to top edges of lower front
sections as marked on pattern.
Stitch front yokes to lower front sections
and back yoke to lower back section.
Fold seam allowances toward yokes and
topstitch seams. Stitch and topstitch
shoulder seams.
Stitch outer pocket bags to front sections
and inner pocket bags to back section as
marked on pattern. Understitch seam
allowances to pocket bags. Finish raw
edges of side seam allowances. Stitch side
seams from armpit down to top edge of
pocket opening and from bottom edge
of pocket opening down to bottom hem.
Fold outer pocket bag to inside and
topstitch edge of pocket opening on
garment's front. Pin and stitch pocket
bags together, right sides facing. Steampress side seams open. Finish raw edge
of bottom hem, fold up hem allowance

12
as marked on pattern and steam-press.
Stitch underarm seams of sleeves and
steam-press them open. Fold up sleeveedge hems as marked on pattern and
steam-press them. Pin and stitch sleeves
to annhoIes.
Collar: Pin collar pieces together, right
sides facing,and stitch their curved outer
edges rogemer: Press seams open, turn
collar right side OUtand steam-press it
fiar rJghdr-Topstitch around collar and
machine-baste its lower edges together.
Stitch coIar to garment's neck edge,
afJgl1ingends of collar with center.front
ncxches..
Joining rming: Stitch ease pleat at center
back approx. lOan down from neckline.
Construct hanging loop and machinebaste it to linings back neckline. Stitch
shoulder seams. Stitch sleeves to armholes. Stitch sleeve underarm seams and
side seams. Sew bottom hem (I cm + I
an). Press seams on lining carefully before
continuing.
joining: At this =ge,garment
and lining
are inside out, and sleeves and sleeve
inings hang separately. Pin and stitch front
edge of lining to edge of front facing on
garment. right sides together, and finish
seams. Note that bottom hem of lining
lies I an up from garment's bottom-hem
foIdline. Pin and stitch neck edges offront
fadngs and lining's neckline to garment's
neckline. right sides together, with collar

_M--

- ~M
cut

PATTERN PIECES

Woolfabric
I front yoke

2
2
2
I
I
2
2
I
I
2+2

2 front center panel
3 front side panel
. 4 back yoke
5 back center panel
6 back side panel
7 sleeve
8 upper collar
9 under collar
I0 pocket flap
Uningsatin
I I front
12 back
7 !§> sleeve
Cotton fabric
13 pocket bag

- - --PA~TEI!N SH~E.2!

2
1
2
2+2
_M-

Q

black

"
.. between. Clip seam allowances along
csves at neckline. Fold front facing to
ridR side of garment at bottom hem and
sDoch it to garment along bottom-hem
Ddline.
Brmg sleeve edges of shell and lining end
iD end, line up edges and pin them

together, right sides facing, and sritch. Sew
sleeve-edge hems by hand with catchstitch
or with machine blind-hem stitch. Turn
coat right side out through bottom hem.
Finishing: Sew bottom hem by hand
with catchstitch or with machine blindhem stitch.Anchor liningto garment with

25. Slavic-style tunic top

98-104-110-116-122-128-134-140-146

cf1
CUTTING

~~d'~

cm

~7
~6

'.\,

SEWING
Seams and hems: Stitch seams with
straight stitch and finish them with serger
or zigzag stitch.
Preparation:
Fuse stay tapes to shoulder
seam allowances on back panels; see p.
35. Machine-baste clear elasric tape to
bottom edge of left front panel and serge
or zigzag edge.
Applique and decorative
stitching:
Make bird applique on right front panel

hem-b~nd pieces and outside collar pieces
following instructions on p.44.
Collar: Pin collar pieces together, right
sides facing, and stitch their top edges
together. Serge or zigzag seam allowances
together. Turn collar right side out so that
inside collar piece encloses seam allowances and shows on the outside. See
iIIustration.Topstitch top edge of collar
by stitching-in-the-ditch along seam line.
Machine-baste open edges of collar pieces
together. Stitch shoulder seams. Pin and
sritch collar to neckline, right sides together. Topstitch neckline seam using
presser-foot edge as guide.
Joining: Pin right front panel on top of
left front panel and machine-baste their
armholes and side seam edges together.
Stitch sleeves to armholes. Stitch sleeve
underarm seams and side seams.

98- 104- 110-1 16-122-128-1 34-140-146

across width of front facing. Work
buttonholes and sew on buttons as
marked on pattern. Ifyour fabric is soft
or loosely-woven, sew reinforcing buttons
on reverse side of buttons.

Pages 60-6 I

Calor
I right front panel
I f§>left front panel
2 back
3 outside hem band

d,wrn'" .«h;O,"O oo,,;d.

Trace pattern for left front panel from
pattern for right front panel as mirror
image. Cut garment pieces from velour
knit as indicated on list of pattern pieces.
Add 7 mm seam allowances to bottom
edges of hem-band pieces and top edges
of 'collar pieces and 10 mm seam allowances to other edges.

26.Velour pants

=

smallFrenchtacks ( crocheted loop or
thread loop covered with buttonhole
sritches) stitched to armpit seam allowances and to side seam allowances just
above bottom hem allowance. Steampress bottom hem and front edges.
Topsritch front edges and neck edge

cm

A B
I
I
I

-

4 insidehem band

-

5 sleeve
6 outside collar
7 inside collar
§ bird applique

2

Sleeve edges:
design no. 5.

C

2
2

Follow instructions for

Bottom hem: Pin hem-band pieces
together in pairs, right sides facing, and
stitch their side seams. Pin outside and
inside hem bands together, right sides
facing, and stitch their bottom edges together.Turn hem band right side out and
topstitch its bottom edge in the same
way as collar. Finish top raw edge of inside
hem band. Pin and stitch outside hem
band to garment's bottom hem, right sides
together. Turn hem band right way up, pin
top edge of inside hem band to garment
and topstitch it in place by stitching-inthe-ditch along previous seamline.

Designs 25+26

Pages 60-6 I

ERIALS
5"70'-75-80-80-85-90-95

2

cm

I~red (A), 15 cm bright-red
and 20 cm pink velour knit

. .58 cm elastic,
th 15 mm
decorative stitching:
'teen,pink and white machin~
wbroidery thread
*9 cm tear-away backing,
VUeseline@Stickvlies
.59 cm waten'soluble embroidery
stabiUzer,Vlieseline@Soluweb

CUTTING
Cut garment pieces from velour knit as
indicated on list of pattern pieces.Add 7
mm seam allowances to bottom edges
of bottom-leg band pieces and 10 mm
seam allowances to other edges.
,', ~..

SEWING
Seams and hems: Stitch seams with
straight stitch and finish them with serger
or zigzag stitch.
Decorative
stitching: Sew decorative
stitching on outside bottom-leg band

-

pieces following instructions for decorative stitch,ing on hem-band pieces of
design no. 25.
Joining: Stitch leg inseams, crotch seam
and side seams.
Waistline: Finish raw edge of waistline.
Measure and adjust elastic to fit child's
waist (length of elastic
child's waist
minus 7...9 cm). Stitch ends of elastic
together to form closed loop and mark
it into quarters. Pin elastic to wrong side
of waistline casing allowance, aligning
quarter marks with center-front, center-

=

~

~

!
i

=:=J3

Calor
I pants front
2 pants back
3 outside
bottom-leg band
4 inside
bottom-leg band

A
2
2

B

C

2

-

2

:J4

back and side seams. Machine-baste elastic
to waistline casing allowance by stitchingin-the-ditch along garment's seam lines
from right side. Fold waistline casing allowance and elastic to wrong side of garment
and stitch casing through all layers along
bottom edge of elastic, stretching elastic
as you sew.
Bottom edges of legs: Stitch side edges
of each bottom-leg band piece together,
right sides facing, to form closed loops.
Pin inside and outside bands together,
right sides facing, and stitch their bottom
edges. Serge or zigzag seam allowances

together.Turn bottom-leg band right side
out so that inside band encloses seam
allowances and shows on the outside.
See illustration.Topstitchbottom edge of
band by stitching-in-the-ditchalong
previous seamline.Finishtop raw edge
of inside band. Pin and stitch outside band
to bottom edge of leg, right sides together.
Turn bottom-leg band right way up, pin
top edge of inside band to bottom edge
of leg and topstitch it in place by stitchingin-the-ditch along previous seam-line.

37

27. Knit jacket

92-98-104-110-116-122-128-134-140-146

cm

2

Pages 10-11,62-63

i@
JErJ

Seams and hems: Stitch seams with
straight stitch and finish them with serger
or zigzag stitch. Sew topstitching using
presser-foot edge as guide.
Preparation:
Cut interfacings for areas
shaded in grey in small-scale patterns and
fuse them in place. Fuse stay tapes to
shoulder seam allowances on back panels;
see p. 35.

CUTTING
Cut garmentpiecesfrom knitas indicated
on list of pattern pieces.

Joining: Stitch shoulder seams. Stitch
sleeves to armholes. Stitch sleeve underarm seams and side seamS. Stitch side
edges of sleeve cuffs together, right sides
facing, to form closed loops. Fold cuffs in
half, wrong sides together. Pin and stitch
cuffs ~o sleeve edges, right sides together.
Fold seam allowances toward sleeves and
topstitch seams.

28. Dutch-style pinafore dress

Collar: Stitch oUter edges of collar pieces
together. right sides facing.Trim and taper
seam allowances at corners and press
seams open.Turn collar right side oUt and
press it flat lightly.Topstitch around collar
and machine-baste its open edges together. Pin and stitch collar to neck edge,
aligning ends of collar with center-front
notches. Fold n-ont fadngs on top of collar
to right side of garment, tUrn seam allowances on outer edges of facings to their
final position (Le.to wrong side of facing)
and stitch front neckline corners. Clip
seam allowances along curves at neckline
and trim them if necessary. Leave front
neckline corners inside OUt.Pin velvet
ribbon on top of neckrme seam allowances
on collar side, with ends of ribbon slightly
overlapping n-ont facings,and stitch collarside edge of ribbon to neckline seam.

I
2
3
4
5

front
back
sleeve
sleeve cuff
collar

2
I
2
2
2

Turn front neckline corners right side
out and stitch other edge of velvet ribbon
to neckline.
Bottom hem and front facings: Fold
front facings to right side of garment at
bottom hem and stitch them to garment
along bottom-hem foldline. Turn front
facings to wrong side and stitch their
edges to front panels. Fold up and press
bottom hem as marked on pattern and
topstitch it with serger coverstitch, or
with double-needle or suitable decorative
overedge stitch on regular sewing
machine.

'--

Finishing: Work buttonholes and sew
on buttons as marked on pattern. Note
that buttonholes are made on right front
panel and left-hand side edge of collar.

92-98-104-110-116-122-128-134-140-146

cm

~

Pages 62-63

.TTERN PIECES

Garment
I bodice front
I
2
2 bodice back
1+1
4 front and back skirt panel
I
5 piping for neckline*
2
6 piping for annhole*
Un/ng
I bodice front
I
2 bodice back
2
4 @ front and back skirt panel I + I

:mm._.li~.i.~L'~""hm....

C'
Cu
on
wi
fin

PATTERN SH

- I1
CUTTING
Garment: Cut garment pieces from fine
cord, placing front and back skirt panels
on embroidered area of fabric and bodice
front and back panels on non-embroidered area. Cut piping trims from green fine
cord; pattern pieces for piping trims*
include seam allowances.
Lining: Cut pieces from lining satin as
indicated on list of pattern pieces. Note
that front and back skirt panels of lining
are cut along pattern foldlines at bottom
hem.
SEWING
,','

'

Seams and hems: Stitch seams with
straight stitch and finish them with serger
or zigzag stitch. Topstitch seams close to
edge.
Preparation:
Cut taffeta ribbon into
two equal-length pieces and trim one end
of each piece diagonally, cutting ends jn
opposite directions. Cut velvet ribbon in

38

the same way. Fold 6 mm deep pleats on
each piece of taffeta ribbon at I cm
intervals, leaving 6 cm of ribbon at
diagonally-cut
end and width of seam
allowance at the other end unpleated.
Machine-baste
taffeta ribbons to garment
bodice front as marked on pattern, placing
stitching in the middle of ribbon.Topstitch
velvet ribbons on top of taffeta ribbons,
leaving 2-3 cm of ribbon hanging free at
their diagonally-cut
ends.
Bodice:

Stitch shoulder

seams

on both

garment and lining. Turn and pin I cm seam
allowances at both ends of each piping strip
to wrong side. Fold piping strips in haf(lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press. Pin
and machine-baste piping trims to garment's
neckline and armholes, aligning their tumedunder ends with side seam lines and centerback seamlines and placing stitching 3 mm
from folded edge of piping trim.
Pin garment and lining together. right
sides facing, and stitch their necklines
together. Clip seam allowances
along

curves at neckline and clip corners to
stitching. Understitch neckline seam
allowances to lining. stitching from right
side of lining. Pin and stitch armholes of
garment and lining together, right sides
facing. alp seam allowances along curves.
Turn bodice right side out by pushing
back panels between shoulder.seams of
garment and lining toward front panel.
Pin and stitch side seams of bodice as
continuous seams, starting from waist ~
edge of garment and finishing at waist
edge of lining.Press side seams open and
stearn-press bodice lightly.
Invisible zipper: Open zipper. Pin lefthand zipper tape to garment, right sides
together, and stitch in place close to coil.
Stitch right-hand zipper tape in place in
the same way. Pin one center-back edge
of bodice lining to center-back edge of
garment bodice, right sides together and
with zipper in between, and stitch next
to previous row of stitching. Stitch other
center-back edge of lining to garment in
the same way.

Stitch center-back seam of garment bodice
from waist to notch for zipper placket.
Stitch center-back seam of lining in the
same way, Press center-back seams open.
Topstitch armholes and neckline close to
.edge.
Skirt section: Pin front and back skirt
panels of garment together, right sides
facing,and stitch side seams. Fold up, press
arid stitch bottom hem of garment as
marked on pattern. Sew gathering stitches
along waist edge of garment skirt and
gather skirt to fit bodice. Stitch side seams
of skirt lining, Fold up and stitch bottom
hem of lining.Sew gathering stitches along
waist edge of skirt lining and gather edge
to fit bodice.
Joining: Pin and stitch garment skirt to
garment bodice, right sides together. Serge
or zigzag seam allowances, fold them
toward bodice and topstitch waist seam.
Stitch skirt lining to bodice lining in the
same way.Turn dress right side out and
press it lightly,

'--.---

3

/

i:
'----

.,
29.Wool-knit pinafore dress

92-98-104-110-116-122-128-134-140-146

~u
Cut pieces from fashion fabric and lining
fabric as indicated on list of pattern pieces.
Note that front and back skirt panels of
lining are cut along pattern foldlines at
bottom hem.

- 100-105
155-160
knit(wo
width150
- 100-105-'1
160"170-1
width140

I bodice front
2 bodice back
3 front and back
skirt panel

Bodice and invisible zipper: Construct
bodice and apply invisible zipper following
instructions for design no. 28. Omit parts
printed in italics, concerning piping trims

116-122-128-134-140-146-152

c:iJ

m

,
,,
,
,,
,
,
,
,
,,
,

.

"'---n

for collar edges + front edges + bottom
hem
two 47-48.8-50-51.5-53-54.5-56
cm
strips for pockets
- two 8 cm strip for thumb holes
two 22. ..26 cm strips for sleeve edges

-

Check length of bindings before sewing
as the stretch and recovery qualities of
different knits vary.

CUTTING

SEWING

Cut garment pieces from knit as indicated
on list of pattern pieces. Cut also 4 cm
wide binding strips from ribbing for
finishing garment edges:

Seams and hems: Stitch seams with
serger, or with overedge stretch stitch
on regular sewing machine.

- 180-187-194-201-209-220-226
cm

Preparation:
Sew decorative topstitching on front panels as marked on

strip

e

31. Quilted parka

1.
0

and topstitching.
Skirt section: Pin front and back skirt
panels of garment together, right sides
facing, and stitch side seams. Steam-press
seams open and finish raw edge of bottom
hem. Fold up, pin and steam-press bottom
hem as marked on pattern, and sew it by
hand with catchstitch or with machine
blind-hem stitch. Stitch side seams of skirt

Seams and hems: Stitch seams with
straight stitch and finish them with serger
or zigzag stitch.

30. Fur-knit jacket

116-122-128-134-140-146-152

Pages I0- I I

MATERI.

- irwisible
20-20c2(

CUTTING

cm

cm

fashion
fabric
I
2

lining
fabric
I
2

2

2

lining. Fold up and stitch bottom hem of
lining.
Joining: Pin and stitch garment skirt to
garment bodice, right sides together. Stitch
skirt lining to bodice lining in the same
way.Serge or zigzagwaist seam allowances
and steam-press dress lightly.

Page 12

I front
2 back
3 front sleeve
4 back sleeve
5 collar
6 pocket

2
I
2
:2
2
2

.

'

pattern from right side,using suitable
decorative overedge stitch on regular
sewing machine or flatlock stitch.
Pockets: Stitch ends of each pocket
binding strip together to form closed
loops and finish edges of pockets with
binding following instructions on p.27.
Topstitch pockets to front panels as
marked on pattern. Sew bar-tacks at
corners of pockets (see design sketch).
Sleeves: Stitch and topstitch overarm
seams of sleeves. Stitch underarm seams
of sleeves. Finish edges of thumb holes
and sleeve edges with binding in the same
way as pocket edges.
.
Joining: Stitch side seams. Stitch sleeves

cm

Pages

to armholes (= raglanseams).Pin and
stitch collar pieces to neckline, with right
side of outside collar piece facing right
side of neck edge and right side of inside
collar piece facing wrong side of neck
edge. Fold collar pieces up in position,
wrong sides together, and machine-baste
their open edges together.
Binding: Stitch ends of binding strip
together to form closed loop and finish
collar edges, front edges and bottom hem
with binding in the same way as pocket
edges.
Zipper: Stitch zipper to front edges by
stitching-in-the-ditch along binding
attachment seam.

12-13

t
;s
!s
1S
m
19
~e
0

ge

n.
,e
d

n

W\J]"

39

."

CUTTING

Outerwear

fabric: Cut shell pieces

from outerwear fabric as indicated on
list of pattern pieces.
Cut also:
- two 6 cm x 10 cm piecesfor snap-hook
tab on sleeve and buckle tab on hood
- 3 cm x 10 cm strip for hanging loop
Lining: Remove hem allowances from
pattern pieces for front and back panels
as well asfor sleeves(marked with pencil
symbol on pattern pieces).Cut up pattern
for sleeve into two pattern pieces (i.e.
sleeve and sleeve-edgepanel;wind cuff
will be inserted in seam joining these).
Cut pieces from quilted lining fabric as
indicated on list of pattern pieces. Do
not add seamallowancesto bottom hem'
and sleeve edges.

Fusible wadding: Cut hood panels and
one peak panelfrom fusible wadding.Fold
pattern piece for front-pocket flap in half
along foldline and cut flap piece from
fusible wadding without seamallowances.
Volume

fleece: Cut collar pieces from
volume fleece with slightly wider seam
allowances than shell collar pieces.

SEWING
Seams and hems: Stitch seams with
straight stitch and double-topstitch
unless otherwise

instructed.

them,
No seam

finish is necessary as the garment is fully
lined.

Print: Print out print motifs and
instructions

from our website

(www.ottobredesign.com
> print for free).
Apply "ottobre" print on a piece of fashion
fabric and "ARCTIC CIRCLE" print to
back panel, following instructions.

Preparation:

Iron pieces of fusible

wadding onto wrong side of corresponding shell pieces cut from outerwear fabric.
Pin volume-fleece
collar pieces to wrong
side of shell collar pieces and serge or
zigzag their edges together. Construct
hanging loop and stitch to lining's back
neckline.
Tabs: Fold and press each of the three
tab pieces in half, wrong sides together,
turn seam allowances on long edges and
one end in and topstitch tabs close to
edge. Thread buckle onto one of the
shorter tabs and stitch tab to hood center
panel at upper placement marking. Stitch
hood adjustment tab to hood center
panel at lower placement
marking.
Thread snap hook onto the other shorter
tab and stitch tab to left sleeve as marked
on pattern.

Sleeve pockets:

Hem opening edges of
pockets. Pin and stitch pockets to right
sleeve as marked on pattern. Fold pocket
flap piece in half, right sides together, and
stitch its side ends.Trim seam allowances,
turn pocket flap right side out and topstitch its edges. Pin and stitch flap above

upper pocket, with outside of flap facing
right side of garment. Fold pocket flap
down right side out and topstitch it in
place along top edge using presser footedge as guide.
Front pocket: Pin outer pocket bag to
front panel,right sides together. Stitch
around pocket opening, following pattern
markings.Slashpocket opening and cut
diagonally to stitching at corners. Turn
pocket bag to wrong side and press
pocket opening flat. Pin zipper under
pocket opening and topstitch around
pocket opening. Pin and stitch inner
pocket bag to outer pocket bag, right
sides together, and stitch their outer
edges together. Stitch top edge and ends
of zipperthrough all layersto pocket bags
- from right side.

Front-pocket flap: Stitch 6 cm piece of
Velcrohook tape and piece of fabric with
"ottobre"

print to pocket flap piece as

marked on pattern. Construct frontpocket flap in the same way as sleevepocket flap but sew first row of
topstitching close to edge and the other
I cm away from the first row. Pin and
stitch flap above pocket as marked on
pattern, with outside of flap facing right
side of garment. Fold pocket flap down
right side out andtopstitch it in place

that seam allowances
are concealed.Pin and stitch 6 cm piece

along top edge so

for Velcro loop tape to front panel as
counterpart for Velcro hook tape on
pocket flap.
Joining shell: Stitch and topstitch
shoulder seams. Machine-baste separating
zipper to neck edge of outer collar piece,
with wrong side of zipper facing right
side of collar piece. Pin and stitch outer
collar piece to shell's neckline,with zipper
in between. Press folds at front placket
edges as marked on pattern. Stitch upper
front panels to lower front panel,with
seam allowances on front placket edges
folded in position so that I cm wide gap
is left between upper front panels for
zipper. Topstitch panel seam.
Stitch sleeves to armholes and topstitch
seams. Stitch underarm seams and side
seams down to notches for side vents.
Joining lining: Stitch shoulder seams.
Stitch inner collar piece to lining'sneckline.
Stitch sleeves to armholes. Stitch zipper
to front placket edgesof lining,with wrong
side of zipper facing right side of lining.
Stitch upper front panels to lower front
panel. Stitch underarm seams and side
seams down to notches for side vents.
Stitch zippers to edges of side vents,with
wrong side of zipper facing right side of
lining. Note that end of zipper is aligned
with raw bottom edge of lining and that
zipper opens from bottom to top.
Wind cuffs: Stitch side edges of each
sleeve-edgepanelas well as of eachwind
cuff together, right sides facing,to form
closed loops. Stitch ends of each ribbed

32. Plus-size viscose blouse

sleeve

cuff together,

half, wrong sides together.
Pin and stitch
ribbed sleeve cuffs to wind cuffs, right
sides together. Machine-baste
wind cuffs
to top edges of sleeve-edge panels, right
sides together. Pin and stitch sleeve-edge
panels to sleeves, right sides together.

Joining shell and lining: Stitch top
edges of collar pieces together, right sides
facing. Turn garment right side out, with
shell right side out and lining in place
inside it. Pin front placket edges of shell
to front placket edges of lining and topstitch through all layers from right side.
Push your hand between shell and lining
and pin and stitch back necklines of shell
and lining together.
Side vents:
Push your hand between
shell and lining and pin and stitch lefthand vent edges of shell front and front
lining together, right sides facing and with
zipper in between. Stitch left-hand vent
edges of shell back and back lining together in the same way. Repeat for righthand vent edges. Turn parka right side
out and double-topstitch
edges of vents.

Bottom

10

right sides facing, to

form closed loops. Fold sleeve cuffs in

hem and sleeve edges:

1

1

~\ID
.~

7

2D141

hem allowances and machine-bastetheir
ends to side seamlines.Fold up,pin and
stitch bottom hems,aligningedge of lining
with shell'sfold line and enclosing elastics
within hems.Foldup,pin and stitch sleeveedge hems.
Hood: Stitch shell-hood side panels to
shell-hood center panel, right sides together. Pin and stitch peakpiecestogether,
right sides facing,leavingstraight edge
unstitched.Trim seam allowances, turn
peak right sideout and topstitch its edges,
placing first row of topstitching close to
edge and second row I cm awayfrom
the first one. Machine-bastepeak to face
edge of hood, right sides together, as
marke,d on pattern. Machine-baste

remaininghalfof separating zipper

Stitch hood-lining side panels to hoodlining center panel,leavingsmall opening
in one seam for turning hood right side
out. Stitch hood facing to face edge of
hood lining.Pin two 6 cm pieces ofVelcro
loop tape to left front edgeof hood facing
as marked on pattern.
Insert hood sections into one another,
right sides together, and pili and stitch
their edges together:Trim and taper seam
allowances around corners, clip seam
allowances along curves and turn hood
right side out. Topstitch around hood.
Close opening in seam on hood lining.
Pin and stitch two pieces ofVelcro hook
tape to rjgh{ side of right-hand front edge
of hood. Attach hood to neckline with
zipper:

i-@

!i.QiQ~....

~~;._~
l@

i

12 j

PATTERN PIECES

~-

-

Outerwear fabric
I upper front panel
2 lower front panel
3 back
4 sleeve
5 collar

2
I
I
2
2
2
I
I
2
I
I
2
1+1
I
2

6 hood side panel
7 hood center panel
8
9
I0
I1
I2
I3
14
15

hood facing
peak for hood
adjustment tab
front-pocket
flap
pocket bag
sleeve pocket
sleeve-pocket flap
wind cuff

Quilted lining fabric
I upper front panel
2 @>lower front panel
3 <§>back
4 ~ sleeve
4 ~ sleeve-edge panel
6 @ hood side panel

7

§>

'-r--

2
I
I
2
2
2
I

hood center panel

Ribbing
16 sleeve cuff

2

<

"
Size
chart

for
plus-size children
on pattern sheet E

Pages 64-65

-

--

3 I
""""""'1"""""""\

Cl

- --

PATTERN PIECES
140 cm

:- (suitable
for bobbin thread)
130...140 cm taffeta ribbon,

~

!iQjQg

Wl3

to

necklineedgeof hood, right sidestogether,
as marked on pattern.

stretchy single

10 mm

2
.

Cut

105-110-115-120-125 cm

width

I

elasticinhalf,layelastics along bottom

128-134-140-146-152 cm

jersey
(viscose/elastane),
width
.. 24...27 cm stay tape,
Vlieseline@ Formband
.. elastic thread

I

I

m;==

I M~TER~~~
-

Imi61ml

Cl
inc

cut

I front

I

SE

2 back
3 sleeve
4 neckline binding*

I
2
I

Se
str:
pre
frol
dec
sev.

;TERNHEE,!

F o;ane

40
""-

~
CUTTING
CUt garment pieces from knit as indicated
on list of pattern pieces. Do not add seam
allowances to neckline and edges of
neckline slit. Pattern for neckline binding*
includes seam allowances.
Cut also 2 cm x 8 cm binding strip for
finishing edges of neckline slit. Mark place-

ment of elasticized shirring on sleeves by
hand-basting. Starting point of topmost
row of shirring as well as length of rows
are marked on pattern.

SEWING
Seams and hems: Stitch seams with
serger, or with overedge stretch stitch

33. Plus-size pinafore dress

on regular sewing machine. Topstitch
seams close to edge. Stitch bottom hem
with serger coverstitch or on regular
sewing machine using double-needle or
suitable decorative overedge stitch.

Elasticized shirring: Make elasticized
shirring on both sleeves and sleeve edges
following illustrated instructions on p.35.
Neckline slit, Neckline,Joining:
Follow
instructions for design no. 22.

Preparation: Fuse stay tapes to shoulder
seam allowances on back panels; see p.
35.

128- I34-140-146-

I52 cm

Pages 64-65
PATTERN PIECES

Size chart

:

for plus-size

~

Ij~~:;:':m
,sheet E

- .
' MATERIALS

:

~{I (Z~ LjJ)
~~
'

3<4

!

-.'

-

i

5+6

."---:,"'

7 .,/ ./

r

- 110-115-120-125-140

..

i

cm

,

10C, .

9 (. .

printed stretch velveteen
35 cm brown fine cord
! - ~5-1 00-1 05-115-120 cm

-

i

,

5

stretchy lining fabric
(PA/EL or Vl/EL)

- invisible zipper, length
1- 2 buttons, 0 23 mm

- I large

CUTTING
I

Garment:
Cut piping trims and inner
belt piece from brown fine cord. Pattern
pieces for piping trims* include seam.
allowances. Cut other garment pieces
from velveteen as indicated on list of
pattern pieces. Cut also 3 cm x 24 cm
strip from velveteen for belt loops.
Lining: Before cutting lining,join pattern
pieces for skirt front panels (3+4) and
pattern pieces for skirtback panels (5+6)
into single pattern pieces and remove
bottom-hem allowances from them. Cut
lining pieces from liningfabric as indicated
on list of pattern pieces.

SEWING
Seams and hems: Stitch seams with
straightstitch and finishthem with serger

34.Velour jacket

sew-on

30 cm

cut

Garment
I bodice front
2 bodice back
3 skirt center-front panel
4 skirt front side panel
5 skirt center-back panel
6 skirt back side panel
7 piping for neckline*
8 piping for armhole*
9 outer belt piece
10 inner belt piece
Lining
I bodice front
2 bodice back
3+4 skirt front panel
5+6 skirt back panel

I
2
I
2
I
2
I
2
I
I
I
2
I
I

snap fastener

..!A"!:TE!tN.;HEE~IS ~ack

or zigzag stitch.Topsdtch seams on bodice
close to edge and seams on skirt section
using presser-foot edge as guide.
Bodice and inviSIble zipper: ConstrUct
bodice and apply invisible zipper following
instructions for design no. 28.
Belt loops: Serge or zigzag one long
edge of belt loop strip, fold and pin strip
in three, and double-topstitch in the
middle. Cut strip into four pieces.
Skirt section: Pin and stitch skirt front
side panels of garment to skirt centerfront panel, right sides together: Fold seam
allowances toward center-front panel and
topstitch seams. Stitch skirt back panels
of garment together in the same way. Pin
front and back skirt panels of garment
together, right sides facing, and stitch side
seams. Fold up, press and stitch bottom

hem of garment as marked on pattern.
Machine-baste one end of each belt loop
to waist seamline of skirt side panels,
right sides together, as marked on pattern.
Stitch side seams of skirt lining. Fold up
and stitch bottom hem of lining.
Joining: Pin and stitch garment skirt to
garment bodice, right sides together: Serge
or zigzag seam allowances, fold them
toward bodice and topstitch waist seam.
Stitch skirt lining to bodice lining in the
same way.Turn dress right side out and
press it lightly.Stitch free ends of belt
loops to garment bodice.

belt flat carefully so that brown fine cord
of inner belt piece shows evenly at all
edges on right side of belt (2-3 mm).
Topstitch around belt close to edge from

right side.
Work buttonhole at right-hand end of
belt as marked on pattern. Sew one button
8 cm away from buttonhole and sew one
half of snap fastener at the same place
on reverse side of belt. Sew the other
button and other half of snap fastener at
left-hand end of belt. Thread belt through
loops. The length of the belt can be
adjusted by means of the snap fastener.

Belt: Pin belt pieces together, right sides
facing (align notches), and stitch their
edges together, leaving small opening in
the middle of belt for turning it right side
out. Trim seam allowances along curves
and turn belt right side out. Pin and press

I34-140-146-152-158-164-170

cm

Page 18

MATERIALS

---

! - 85-90-95-110-110-115-120cm
velour knit

- 25

cm

interfacing,

- 20...30

I front
2 front side panel
3 back
4 sleeve
5 sleeve cuff
6 ,collar

cm stay tape,

CUTTING

using embroidery thread.

Cut garment pieces from velour knit as
indicated o'nllst qf pattern pieces.

Preparation:
Cut interfacings for areas
shaded in grey in small-scale patterns and
fuse them in place. Fuse stay tapes to
shoulder seam allowances on back panels;
see p. 35.
Jacket front: Stitch front side panels to
front panels and topstitch seams. Sew
gathering stitches along side seam edges
as marked on pattern and gather edges
to fit side seam edges of back panel.

SEWING

r'e!o.

G725

Vlieseline@ Formband
- 4...6 pearl buttons, 0 15 mm
- 40...45 cm velvet ribbon,
width 10 mm
- machine-embroidery thread
- small beads and a few small pearl
buttons for embellishments on
collar

[

~

PATTERN PIECES
Vlieseline

Seams and hems: Stitch seams with
straight stitch and topstitch them using
presser-foot edge as guide. Stitch hems
from right side of garment with suitable
decorative overedge stitch on regular
sewing machine or with flatlock stitch,

;ATTE,!~SHEE'T.
Joining: Stitch and topstitch shoulder
seams. Stitch sleeves to armholes and
topstitch seams. Stitch sleeve underarm
seams and side seams. Stitch side edges
of sleeve cuffs together,'right sides facing,
to form closed loops. Fold cuffs in half,
wrong sides together: Pin and stitch cuffs
to sleeve edges, right sides together. Fold
seam allowances toward sleeves and topstitch seams.
Collar: Construct

collar and neckline

cut
2
2
I
2
2
2

&

green

following instructions for design no. 27.
Bottom hem and front facings: Fold
up and press bottom hem as marked on
pattern, and stitch it from right side. Fold
and press front edges to wrong side and
stitch them in the same way as bottom
hem.
Finishing: Work buttonholes and sew
on buttons as marked on pattern. Sew a
few buttons and small beads as embellishments on front corners of collar:

41

-=

'tr

35. Romantic T-shirt

--134-140-146-152-158-164-170
---

cm

Pages 18- I9

MATERIALS

- 65-65-70-92.105d20-135
stre~~hy single jersey
(viscose/elastane).
width
. 30...40 cm stay tape.
Vlieseline@ Formband

- -------

cm

.

I front
2 back
3 sleeve
4 necklinebinding*

- macNne-embroidery
thread that
, mar.~h~s th~colorqf
the..k:nit
I. beige. turquoise and rose-pink
thread for finishing edges of frills
SEWING

Cut garment pieces from knit as indicated
on list of pattern pieces. Do not add seam
allowances to neckline. Pattern for neckline binding* includes seam allowances.
Cut also:
- six 2 cm x 33-33-34-34-35-35-36

cm

strips for sleeve-edge
frills
- frills strips for front: inside frill 2 cm x
32 cm. middle frill 2 cm x 42 cm. outside
frill 2 cm x 56 cm

36. Cropped

--

cut I

-----~A.TTE~SH-;T lE r:d

~-

CUTTING

PATTERN PIECES

140 cm

Seams and hems: Stitch seams with
. serger. or with overedg~ stretch stitch
on regular sewing machine. Stitch bottom
hem and sleeve-edge hems as well as topstitching on neckline binding with doubleneedle or with suitable decorative overedge stitch. using machine-embroidery
thread.
Stay tapes: Fuse stay tapes to shoulder
seam allowances on back panels; see p.
35.

Gather front-panel frills and stitch them
in place in the same way.Remove gathering
stitches carefully.
Joining: Stitch one shoulder seam. Finish
neckline with binding. following illustrated
instructions on p. 27. Stitch the other
shoulder seam. turn shoulder seam allowances across neckline binding toward
back panel and secure in place with bar
tack. Stitch sleeves to armholes. Stitch
sleeve underarm seams and side seams.
Fold up. press and stitch bottom hem.

Frills: Finish edges of frills with narrow
serger stitch (= rolled hem) or with
narrow. short zigzag.Finish topmost sleeve
frill and inside front-panel frill with beige.
middle sleeve frill and middle front-panel
frill with turquoise and the rest of the
frill strips with rose-pink thread. Sew tWo
rows of gathering stitches in the middle
of each frill strip from wrong side.
Fold up. press and stitch sleeve-edge hems.
Gather frills to fit sleeve edges and
topstitch them in place as marked on
pattern. stitching in the middle of frill.

pants with cuffs 134-140-146-152-158-164-170
cm

I
I
2
I

Pages 18-19

rt\. m ~f...o

,
,
,
,

~\EJ

:2A
,

L-

srn
4

~4

,
,

,MATERIALS

-100-105-110-115-120-125-130cm

tATTER~
J

cotton fabric or wool-blend fabric
- 20...25 cm light-weight cotton
for pocket f~cings,

IB

1- 10 <;1"11
intect\i~ing.YIi~seline<; 709»1
pants zipper; length 10-10.10-10..1
12-12-12 cm
- button. 0 18 mm

-

CUTTING
Join pattern pieces A and B for both pants
fronts and pants backs before cutting.
Cut pocket facings from light-weight
cotton and other garment pieces from
fashion fabric as indicated on list of pattern
pieces. Cut also 3 cm x 35 cm strip for
belt loops.

SEWING
Seams and hems: Stitch seams with
straight stitch and finish them with serger
or zigzag stitch. Topstitch seams using
presser-foot edge as guide.
Preparation:
Cut interfacings for outer
waistband pieces and fuse them in place.
Press creases on pants panels as marked
on pattern. Stitch darts on pants back

panels as marked on pattern.
Front-hip pockets: Stitch pocket facing
to edge of pocket opening. right sides together. Understitch seam allowances to
pocket facing.Turn pocket facing to inside
and topstitch pocket opening. Pin pocket
piece to pocket facing.right sides together,
and stitch bottom of pocket. Machinebaste edges of pocket to waistline and
side seam allowances.
Joining: Stitch leg inseams and crotch
seam. Stitch crotch seam with tWo rows
of stitching in order to reinforce it.Apply
zipper to placket. following illustrated
instructions for fly-front zipper on pattern
sheet D. Stitch side seams.
Belt loops: Serge or zigzag one long
edge of belt-loop strip. fold and pin strip

"'--m"......

"'''''-'''''''

I A+ IB pants front
2 A+2B pants back
3 pocket piece
3 @ pocket facing
4 waistband
5 flyshield

2B
,,,,,,h""'''''''

"'m_~.......

PIECES ~~~"-'

m''''''''''

2
2
2
2
I
I

"''''h-''''''''''

~PATT~~N S~EET

orange

right side. Topstitch around waistband
and stitch free ends of belt loops to top
edge of waistband. placing them I cm
down from edge.

in three. and double-topstitch in the
middle. CUt strip into five pieces. Machinebaste ends of belt loops to waist seamline.
right sides together. as shown in design
sketch.
Waistline: Stitch center-back seams of
both outer waistband and waistband facing
and press seams open. Finish raw bottom
edge of waistband facing. Pin waistband
pieces together. right sides facing. and
stitch their top edges and ends together.
Trim and taper seam allowances around
corners. press seams open and turn waistband right side out. Stitch bottom edge
of outer waistband to pants waistline.
right sides together. Pin bottom edge of
waistband fadng to pants waist and stitchin-the-ditch along waist seamline from

~

I

Bottom edges of legs: Finish raw
bottom edges of pants legs. Fold up. pin
and press hem allowances at bottom
edges of pants legs to wrong side of as
marked on pattern. Turn pants inside out
and stitch each bottom-edge hem along
seam allowance (slip pant leg on the freearm of your machine before stitching).
Fold up 6 cm cuffs at bottom edges of
pants legs to right side. Secure cuffs in
place with short backstitching along seamlines of inseams and side seams.

)
k",
< :!

c
C

Finishing: Work buttonhole and sew on
button as marked on pattern.

.

c(
c(
pi
cc
all
/la

$

I 7. Boy's vest.

20. Reefer jacket
---~~c~=~,

!~,
i

SI

i

SI
str
or

I

\
~,-''''''~~. -.!
I

~

>..

L____-

~

\

:1"-

'..'.

In
sh:
fu5

I

Pa

42

]

37. Single-jersey polo shirt

122-128-134-140-146-152-158-164-170

PATTERN PIECES

cut

- stretchy single jersey
(viscose/elastane),
width 140 cm:
20-20-20-20-25-25-25-25-25
cm

I ~ front a
I :te front b
I :te front c
2 :te back a
2 ~ back b
2 ~ back c
3 sleeve
4 sleeve cuff
5 collar
6 collar stand
7 placket underlap*
8 placket overlap*

2
I
I
I
I
I
2
2
1+1
1+1
I
I

orange single jersey
50-50-55-55-60-60-60-65-65
black single jersey
15 cm black ribbing
25 cm cotton poplin
4 metal buttons, '" 14 mm
- 30.. .35 cm stay tape,
Vlfeselfne@ FOl111band
20 cm interfacing,
Vlieselfne H 180

cm
cm

-

~

jl

~..!

-

~I

SEWING

front and back and topstitch seams.

Cut up patterns for shirt's front and back
into separate pattern pieces a, band c
along marked seamlines. Cut pieces a
from red, pieces b from orange and pieces
c as well as sleeves from black single
jersey. Cut collar, collar stand as well as
placket underlap and overlap pieces from
poplin and sleeve cuffs from ribbing.
Patterns for placket underlap* and
overlap* include seam allowances.

Seams and hems: Stitch seams with
straight stitch and finish them with serger
or zigzag stitch. Topstitch seams using
presser-foot edge as guide.

Front placket: Construct placket
following illustrated instructions on p.46.

Preparation:
CUt interfacings for areas
shaded in grey in small-scale patterns and
fuse them in place. Fuse stabilizing tapes
to shoulder seam allowances on back
panels; see p. 35. Stitch panel seams at

38. Corduroy cargo pants
LB4

Collar: Stitch and topstitch shoulder
seams. Construct collar following
illustrated instructions on p.46.
Joining: Stitch sleeves to armholes and
topstitch seams. Stitch sleeve underarm
seams and side seams. Leave garment
inside out. Stitch ends of each sleeve cuff

122-128-134-140-146-152-158-164-170

MATERIALS

155-160ern corduroy
- 20...25ern light-weight

cotton
for pocket facings
5 cm interfacing, H 180
pants zipper, length 12-12-1215-15-15-15-15-15
cm
- 2 metal buttons, '" 18 mm
metal buckle, 20 mm

-

18

28

-

Pants front and back panels:

Stitch

cm

and sew

Pages 12-13,20-21

PATTERN PIECES

- 100-110-115-120-125-130-150-

Interfacing: Cut interfacings for areas
shaded in grey in small-scale patterns and
fuse them in place.

Finishing: Work buttonholes
on buttons.

0"""''''''''''':'''''''''''''''110

~~ITr

Seams and hems: Stitch seams with
straight stitch 'arld finish them with serger
or zigzag stitch. Double-topstitch seams.

together, right sides facing.to form closed
loops. Fold cuffs in half. wrong sides
together. Place folded sleeve cuff within
sleeve, pin it to sleeve edge, right sides
together, and stitch along sleeve edge,
stretching cuff as you sew. Fold up. press
and stitch bottom hem.

..
EB

~r;l0!7

SEWING

III

PATTE~N S~EET F green

CUTTING

Cut pocket facings from light-weight
cotton and other garment pieces from
corduroy as indicated on list of pattern
pieces. Cut also 3 cm x 35 cm strip from
corduroy for belt loops. Do not add seam
allowances to curved edges of pocket
flaps*.

Pages 20-21

MATERIALS

red single jersey
20-20-20-20-25-25-25-25-25

CUTTING

cm

pants front panels together, fold seam
allowances toward bigger panels and topstitch panel seams. Stitch back yokes to
pants backs, fold seam allowances toward
yokes and topstitch seams.
Front-hip pockets:
for design. no. 19.

Follow instructions

Back pockets: ConstruCt pockets
following illustrated instruCtions on
pattern sheet F.
Leg pockets: Stitch pants side seams,
fold seam allowances toward pants back
panels and topstitch seams. Press folds
on pocket piece as marked on pattern.
Hem opening edge of pocket. Stitch
bottom corners of pocket. Edgestitch
along pressed folds on pocket piece. Turn
seam allowances on pocket's edges under,

...<..............--

......................

pin pocket to pants leg as marked on
pattern and stitch in place. Fold and pin
pleats at .each top corner of pocket arid
stitch corners to pants leg. Machine-baste
pocket flap pieces togethe'r. wrong sides
facing. Finish curved edge of pocket flap
with binding as follows: Pih and stitch
right side of binding to underside of
curved edge of pocket flap. Fold binding
over to outside of flap. tUrn seam allowance under and stitch binding to flap close
to turned-under edge. Pin and stitch flap
above pocket. with outside of flap facing
right side of garment. Fold pocket flap
down right side out and topstitch it in
place along top edge using presser-foot
edge as guide.
Joining: Finish raw edges of crotch seam

cut

IA+ IB ~ pants front
IA+ I B ~ pants front
~A :te back yoke
2A+2B :te pants back
3 pocket piece
3 @ pocket facing
4 back-pocket welt
5 inner back-pocket bag
6 outer back-pocket bag
7 leg pocket
8 pocket flap*
9 pocket-flap binding
I0 waistband
11 tab
12 fly shield
;ATTERN

2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
I
2
I
I
I
I

SHEET i= black

allowances. Stitch front crotch seam
4 cm down from zipper placket toward
crotch. Apply zipper to placket, following
illustrated instructions for fly-front zipper
on pattern sheet D. Stitch inseams and
rest of crotch seam. Topstitch crotch

seam.

Tab: Fold tab strip in half lengthwise, turn
seam allowances on its long edges and
ends in, and topstitch close to edge.
Thread buckle on tab and stitch tab to
pants back as marked on pattern.
Belt Loops, Waistline: Follow
instructions for design no. 19.
Finishing: Hem bottom edges of pants
legs.Work buttonholes and sew buttons
on waistband and pocket flap as marked
on pattern.

43

-~--



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