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FINALISTS PRESENTATION

APPLICATION PROCESS

•  Phase 1: from February 1 to April 15, 2016
The fashion designers submit their application form for the ANDAM Fashion Awards including company
information (structure, team, turnovers, points of sales, ...), CV, lookbooks of their previous collections, as
well as a quick description of their business and creative strategies for the next years.
•  Phase 2:
Jury members review all applications submitted by eligible candidates and select the nominees who will be
announce by press mid-May 2016.
•  Phase 3:
The finalists work closely with the ANDAM team on their final project which will be presented to the jury.
They need to enrich their dossier with sketches of their next collection and a detailed business plan
explaining the perspectives of strategic development which will be offered to the brand thanks to ANDAM
financial support and privileged mentoring.
•  Phase 4:
The jury meeting will take place on July 1st, 2016. The nominees are interviewed by and present looks
from past or/and prototypes of their upcoming collections to the jury, during 10 minutes. The three
fellowship winners, elected by simple majority, will be officially announced at the end of the Nationale
Commission, during the ANDAM Prize Ceremony.
•  Phase 5:
In September will take place the fellowship winners shows.

JURY’S MEETING - SCHEDULE

•  13.40 - 14.00 : BEGINNING OF THE JURY’S MEETING (introduction & presentation of the jury’s members)

•  14.00 - 15.00 : GRAND PRIX – Interview of the 6 finalists (10 minutes per candidate)
14.00 : Aalto, 14.10 : Tim Coppens, 14.20 : Jacquemus, 14.30 : Koché, 14.40: OAMC, 14.50 : Wanda Nylon
15.00 – 15.15 : Deliberation and election of the winner of the ANDAM Fashion Award

•  15.15 – 16.00 : FIRST COLLECTIONS AWARD - Interview of 3 finalists (10mns/each)
15.15 : Atlein, 15.25 : Harmony Paris, 15.35 : Kenta Matsushige
15.45 – 16.00 : Deliberation and election of the winner of the First Collections Award

•  16.00 – 16.45 : ACCESSORIES PRIZE - Interview of 3 finalists (10mns/each)
16.00 : Hugo Matha, 16.10 : Amélie Pichard, 16.20 : Tomasini Paris
16.30 – 16.45 : Deliberation and election of the winner of the Accessories Prize Award

ANDAM FASHION AWARD GRAND PRIX

ELIGIBILITY REQUIREMENTS
The candidate, either French or of another nationality, must:
•  Not have won neither of the two ANDAM grants in 2014 or 2015,
•  Have a minimum of two commercial seasons internationally distributed,
•  Have generated a turnover between €100.000 and € 4 million worldwide in 2015,
•  Own a French company or, if based outside of France, be prepared to set up a French company during
the same year as the receipt of the fellowship.
ANDAM BENEFITS
The finalists of the ANDAM Fashion Award will be offered by:
•  MAC Cosmetics, assistance for the promotion of the nominees image and notoriety through in-kind makeup support both backstage during Fashion Week as well as makeup artistry and product for other
collections, look books and various events throughout the year,
•  Swarovski, a dedicated workshop in the Swarovski showroom to discover their products diversity and the
creative possibilities crystals offer for a collection.
The fellowship winner will receive:
•  A global endowment of € 250.000,
•  Mentorship for two consecutive seasons by Geoffroy de la Bourdonnaye, Chloé president, who will advise
the winner in her/his creative, corporate and commercial development,
•  An in-kind donation from Swarovski of 10K euros worth of crystals to be used within the year following her/
his fellowship,
•  Guidance from MAC Cosmetics to help develop their international awareness,
•  An individual monitoring and expertise of Maison des Savoirs-Faire et de la Création for her/his collections
management and production control, including selection of manufacturers the most suitable to translate
her/his creativity.

ANDAM FASHION AWARD GRAND PRIX - FINALISTS

1.  AALTO
2.  TIM COPPENS
3.  JACQUEMUS
4.  KOCHE
5.  OAMC
6.  WANDA NYLON

AALTO

Personal Information
•  Name: Tuomas Merikoski
•  Age: 36
•  Nationality: Finnish
•  CV :
2010-current: Senior Designer Menswear RTW,
Louis Vuitton
2005-2010: Designer then Senior Designer 1st line,
Givenchy
•  Education: School of Arts & Craft Finland, ESAA
Duperré Paris, IFM Paris
•  Website: www.aaltointernational.com
•  Email: tuomas.merikoski@gmail.com

Company Information
•  Date of creation: Finnish / French
•  Nationality: 09/2014
•  1st commercial season: January 2015, FW15
•  Production sites: France, England, Italy,
Portugal, China
•  Turnover FW16: 800 K€ / - 350 K€ / 85%
•  Number of POS: 66
•  Main POS: le Bon Marché, Selfridges, Opening
Ceremony, Boon The Shop, Ssense, I.T HK, 10
Corso Come

Development thanks to ANDAM

•  Structure the company: new office/showroom, hiring (product manager, sales, digital manager, intern)
•  Have a showroom during New York sales periods, open a first concept store in Paris, launch a new
website and eshop
•  From 2016 to 2019 increase the turnover from 1.5M to 5M€, and reach 12M€ in 2021
•  Increase the communication budget to develop a digital media strategy and new artistic « special
projects »
•  Limit the production in Asia by increasing « Made in France » to better control quality and production
•  Develop an accessory line from 2017

x

ANDAM

FA S H I O N A WA R D
2016

FINALE

PRECOLLECTION
SS 2017
“ U U S I FA N TA S I A ”

S H OW C O L L EC T I O N AW 1 6 - 1 7 “ H E L L S I N K I ”

PRECOLLECTION
AW 1 6 - 1 7
“HELLSINKI”

CONCEPT

F i n l a n d , C o n t r a s t , A r t , Yo u t h , R a w,
Vivid, Elegance, Graphic
A a l t o ’s b u s i n e s s c o n c e p t i s t o c r e a t e a s t r o n g i n t e r n a tional player with combination of original Finnish DNA,
360° international luxury fashion industry know-how and
direct commercial presence.

T H E T E A M & T H E C O M PA N Y
‘ N e w A A LT O I n t e r n a t i o n a l ’ b a s e d i n P a r i s , i s f o u n d e d b y Tu o m a s M e r i k o s k i a l o n g side two other co-founders, all with complementary skills in the fashion industry
( c o m m e r c i a l & i m a g e ) . T h e Te a m b r i n g s t o A A LT O a c o l l e c t i v e s e n s e , a n i n t e r n a t i o n a l v i e w a n d a s t r o n g k n o w h o w o f t h e i n d u s t r y.


Tu o m a s M e r i k o s k i
2010 – currently

LOUIS VUIT TON (Menswear Designer)

2 0 0 3 – 2 0 1 0
G I V E N C H Y ( M e n s w e a r D e s i g n e r )

C O M M E R C I A L S T R AT E G Y
First step (2015-2016) of the growth is planned through high-end wholesalers, from
40 first clients to approximately 80.
Second phase (2017-2018) is a combination of strong wholesale development but
also own direct retail openings and retail partnerships in order to generate faster
g r o w t h e v o l u t i o n a n d k e e p b u i l d i n g a s t r o n g c o m p l e t e i m a g e o f A a l t o ‘ u n i v e r s e ’.

C O M M U N I C AT I O N & I M A G E
A a l t o ’s i m a g e a n d c o m m u n i c a t i o n i s r e a l i s e d i n c o l l a b o r a t i o n w i t h c o - f o u n d e r,
Johan Sandberg (Artlist) and for press PR Consulting Paris.
- F i n l a n d ’s c o n t r o v e r s i a l c u l t u r e i s t h e k e y e l e m e n t i n c o m m u n i c a t i o n a n d i m a g e
s t r a t e g y.
- Focus on strong fashion image avoiding mainstream.
- Collaborating actively with finnish artists to strenghten the image and
communication story
( p h o to g ra p hy b o o k by J o u ko L e hto l a , co l l a b rat i o n s w i t h E s a - Pe k ka S a l o n e n
and the Moomins).

B U S I N E S S R E S U LT S & P R O J E C T I O N S

SEASONAL SALES & FORECAST

AW 1 6 - 1 7 s e a s o n c o n f i r m s st ro n g g ro w t h a n d ta rg e te d p o s i t i o n
- over 60 retailers
- L e B o n M a r c h e , S e l f r i d g e s , O p e n i n g C e r e m o n y, S s e n s e , B o o n T h e S h o p , I .T,
10 Corso Como, Le Form among others...

2 0 1 5 B I L A N & R E S U LT F O R E C A S T S
PER ACCOUNTING YEAR

- 2015 includes only 1 season
- 2017 will show negative result due to investmenst on bigger office/showroom and planned retail concept launch.

COST STRUCTURE EVOLUTION

Key actions 2017:

Human Resources
-

hiring a new product manager
hiring junior AD/community/digital manager
double additional sale staff
add 1 new internship
2 part time employees become full time

Structure

- new office/showroom doubling size

Direct Costs

- investing on product development and digital presence

Communication

- steady mecanical growth with widening visibility and press presence internationally

Fashion Shows

- s a m e co n c ept , l ow key a p p ro a c h , b u t g row i n g t h e s i ze a n d ca st i n g

ANDAM GRAND PRIX PERSPECTIVES

ANDAM GRAND PRIX would permit to accelerate and realise 3 core oper a t i o n s f o r A A LT O b u s i n e s s s t r a t e g y i n n e x t 2 y e a r s :

1 ) D I G I TA L I M A G E / C O M M U N I C AT I O N ~ 1 0 0 k €

- new digital and e-commerce strategy
- new website
- h i r i n g co m m u n i t y / d i g i ta l /A D m a n a ge r
- Pr agency in the US or Japan
- enlarge artistique «special project» such as The Moomins or Esa-Pekka
Salonen

2 ) R E TA I L C O N C E P T ~ 7 0 k €

- development of Aalto retail concept with lifestyle environment, original Aalto concept
- project of 1st Aalto concept store opening in Paris
- hire a commercial assistant

3) PRODUCT / COLLECTION ~ 80k€

- development of a new collection (either leathergoods or menswear)
- hire a new product manager
- hire a freelance accessory designer

* amounts and proportionate sums are only estimates. the global budgets are not confirmed yet

TIM COPPENS

Personal Information
•  Name: Tim Coppens
•  Age: 40
•  Nationality: Belgian
•  CV :
2011-2013: Creative Director Menswear
Consultant, Kar Lagerfeld
2008-2011: Designer Director, RLX Ralph Lauren
2004-2008: Senior Designer Menswear, Adidas
•  Education: Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp
•  Website: www.timcoppens.com
•  Email: tim@timcoppens.com

Company Information
•  Date of creation: 2011
•  Nationality: USA
•  1st commercial season: Spring 2012
•  Production sites: Poland, Portugal, Italy, China
•  Turnover/result/export 2015: 950 K€ / - 100 K€ /
60%
•  Turnover/result/export 2014: 700 K€ / - 250 K€ /
50%
•  Number of POS: 35
•  Main POS: Barneys, Mr Porter, Lane Crawford,
Barneys Japan, Nordstrom, Matches, Isetan,
Harvey Nichols UK

Development thanks to ANDAM

•  Create a 3-month pop-up store in Paris next January and Show for the first time during Men Paris Fashion
Week next June
•  Set up a French subsidiary company and develop a Limited Edition Concept Collection exclusively
« Made in France »
•  Work with a Paris-based PR agency and hire a marketing manager to promote the brand year-long and
grow awareness in Europe
•  Hire a production manager to enhance the sourcing/production in Europe and optimize costs and margins
•  Mid-term: have an office in Paris to be closer to production, press and retailers
•  Develop its own distribution channel: eshop in a first time and then open stand-alone store in select
locations to drive brand image

TIM COPPENS x ANDAM FASHION AWARD

Tim Coppens was born in Belgium and graduated from the acclaimed Royal Academy
of Fine Arts in Antwerp. He has worked with various prestigious luxury and
sports-performance brands before founding his own label in New York in 2012.
Barneys New York immediately ordered his first collection and international
retailers followed suit.
Since his first season, Tim Coppens has received strong support and praise from
both retailers and press. WWD selected him as part of the “10 of Tomorrow”
Rising Stars.
The brand is a blend of craftsmanship, tailoring and athletic references. The
energy of the city, street culture, as well as a pulse that feels the present
and the future are sources of inspiration.

1/6

TIM COPPENS F16 Collection

2/6

TIM COPPENS S16 Collection

3/6

TIM COPPENS Business Plan
Revenues:
Wholesale Income
Consulting Income
Awards
Retail Income
Cost of Goods
Cost of Goods
Gross Profit

2015
956,750
133,500
765,400
324,850
22,250
57,850
75,650
80,100
106,800
57,850
31,150
-

Expenses:
Finance and Administration
Marketing
NY Shows
Sample Development
Staff
Office Expenses
Office Rent
Professional Fees/Consultants
Paris Shows
French Business Unit /Production
Store/Pop-up Retail






















Total Expenses
Net Profit

€ 431,650
€ (106,800)

2016
€ 1,157,000
275,900




867,750

565,150



40,050

57,850

75,650

80,100

133,500

75,650

40,050

53,400







556,250
8,900

2017
€ 1,424,000
275,900




996,800

703,100



48,950

57,850

75,650

80,100

133,500

75,650

40,050

106,800







618,550
84,550

2018
€ 1,780,000
275,900




€ 1,157,000
898,900



75,650

66,750

75,650

106,800

222,500

75,650

48,950

106,800







778,750
120,150

ANDAM Prize Business Plan
Revenues:
Wholesale Income
Consulting Income
Awards
Retail Income
Cost of Goods
Cost of Goods
Gross Profit
Expenses:
Finance and Administration
Marketing
NY Shows
Sample Development
Staff
Office Expenses
Office Rent
Professional Fees/Consultants
Paris Shows
French Business Unit /Production
Store/Pop-up Retail
Total Expenses
Net Profit

4/6






















2015
956,750
133,500
765,400
324,850
22,250
57,850
75,650
80,100
106,800
57,850
31,150
-

€ 431,650
€ (106,800)

2016
€ 1,157,000
275,900

250,000



867,750

817,020



40,050

57,850

75,650

80,100

133,500

75,650

40,050

53,400







556,250
260,770

2017
€ 1,557,500
275,900


89,000


€ 1,090,250
832,150



48,950

57,850

37,825

80,100

133,500

75,650

40,050

106,800

67,195

109,470

62,300




819,690
12,460

2018
€ 2,047,000
275,900




€ 1,330,550
992,350



75,650

66,750

37,825

106,800

222,500

75,650

48,950

106,800

67,195

42,720





850,840
141,510

FRENCH Business development
F17 Show/Presentation
Item
Cost

French Production/Business Unit
Item
Cost

Location
Production
Scenography/Decoration
Models
Catering
Hostess
Invitations + Coursier
Casting director
Stylist
Security
Photo / Video
PR office

€ 9,790
€ 17,800
€ 2,225
€ 19,580
979

979

€ 1,068
979

€ 2,937
979

€ 2,047
€ 7,832

French Production

French Company Setup €
French PR


TOTAL

€ 67,195

TOTAL

48,950
17,800
42,720

€ 109,470

PARIS POPUP STORE
Item
Cost
Pop-up Store Rent €
Staff

Installation and
Store Build

PR Events


17,800
8,900

TOTAL

62,300



26,700
8,900

Points of Distribution
Barneys (US), Dover Street Market (UK), Isetan (Japan), Club 21(Singapore),
Harvey Nichols (UK), Mr. Porter (Global), Lane Crawford (Hong Kong), Ssense
(Global), Beymen (Turkey), Art of Living (Saudi Arabia), etc.
Current sales volume is $1.3 Million USD. Sales have been steadily increasing
over the years and are estimated to double over the next two years.

Business Development
The company has slowly grown over the last 4 years from Tim working alone to a
small studio with 2 designers. Going forward the company would like to hire a
managing director and a production manager. Sales are currently handled by the
NEWS Showroom which will remain. However, there is interest in hiring an internal sales assistant to further grow and support the business.
Tim Coppens plans to increase sales of its current men’s and women’s RTW wear
product over the next 2-3 years. The company also actively engages in consulting opportunities which give it additional revenues and PR exposure.

Communications and Marketing Strategy
Tim Coppens is currently represented by Karla Otto PR in New York. Its main
point of exposure are its runway shows currently held twice a year in New York.
In addition, Tim Coppens receives good press through print and online publications such as Business of Fashion, Vogue, WWD, GQ, etc.

5/6

Development in France
Winning the prestigious ANDAM Fashion Award will allow Tim Coppens to show his
RTW Collection for the first time in Paris during the F17 show season. This
will greatly help the brand’s exposure to Europe, Asia and Middle East stores,
as Paris is the premier market for international buyers. For this season Tim
Coppens would plan to spend approximate $72K of the ANDAM Fashion Award
funds/moneys in Paris to produce a unique show/presentation.
PR will be established for the show and will remain ongoing to expand Tim Coppens’ presence in Europe as well as support press around a unique pop-up store.
Tim Coppens would like to allocate ANDAM Fashion Award funds to a 3-month Pop-Up
Store in the heart of Paris during Paris Autumn/Winter Fashion Weeks (January
‘17 thru March ’17). This will allow Tim Coppens to further express the brand’s
vision throughout the Fashion Season and touch many different buyers and markets over the course of 3 months.
The intent of the pop-up would be to build a world around the Tim Coppens brand
in Paris, providing an Exhibition/Retail space featuring artists such as Peter
Sutherland (Artist/Videographer – New York based), and Muller Van Severen (Objects/Furniture - Belgium based). To achieve this, Tim will spend the remainder
of the ANDAM Fashion Award moneys to set up a French subsidiary company that
will support Store Staff, Rent, Event, Inventory charges and Year Round Public
Relations.
Additionally, from the ANDAM Fashion Award moneys, $60K+ would be spent to produce a Limited Edition Concept Collection called Marking Equipment that will be
made in France. This collection will be a special limited SKU collection that
will only be available in the Paris Pop-Up store at an advanced contemporary
price point.
The Pop-up activation and presentation of the F17 Collection will allow the company to achieve a strong European presence and present the international market
with a better understanding of Tim Coppens’ creative vision.
The Pop-up will also allow the company to explore French production and resources with intent to add these to its existing European production.
Projected Development
Over the next 2 years Tim Coppens will continue to improve and develop his signature Men’s and Women’s RTW Collections. The company will continue to evolve
its aesthetic while improving on its merchandising offering. In this time the
company would like to increase and deepen its existing store count around the
world and move the remainder of its production to Europe.
The brand will continue to participate in collaborations with other companies/artists to expand its category reach and awareness.
Tim Coppens will also continue to offer design services to apparel and product
companies as it has been doing for the past years and now with Under Armour
Sportswear. These appointments further highlight Tim Coppens design language
and provide further awareness to the Brand.
The goal of Tim Coppens is to be a well recognized global brand name within the
next 6 years through its extended reach, collaborations and designer appointments.
6/6

JACQUEMUS

Personal Information
•  Name: Simon Porte Jacquemus
•  Age: 26
•  Nationality: French
•  CV : self-taught designer
•  Prize: LVMH Special Prize, 2015 winner
•  Website: www.jacquemus.com
•  Email: bisous@jacquemus.com

Company Information
•  Date of creation: May 2013
•  Nationality: French
•  1st commercial season: FW13/14
•  Production sites: France, Spain, Portugal,
Bulgaria
•  Turnover/result/export 2015: 1.500 K€ / 150 K€ /
90%
•  Turnover/result/export 2013/14: 1.000 K€ / 99 K
€ / 90%
•  Number of POS: about 100
•  Main POS: netaporter, Ssense, Shop Bop,
Selfridges, Browns, I.T, Dover Street Market,
Corso Como Shanghai, The Broken Arm

Development thanks to ANDAM

•  Find a new studio to optimize the organisation and be able to make the auto-entrepreneur be employees
of the company
•  Increase the budget of development to extend the offer: RTW, accessories and shoes
•  Reinforce promotion and « brand development » thanks to an exclusive customer service, events for
clients, shop in shop and exclusive line for the best wholesale clients
•  Pursue the communication’s investment (show, brand identity and digital: new website and eshop)
•  Find a logistics partner to support the growth and quantities
•  Open the first boutique Jacquemus in Paris in September 2016



JACQUEMUS
" la reconstruction" FW16

JACQUEMUS
" lE NEZ ROUGE" SS16

History, beginnings and financial facts

JACQUEMUS is a women’s ready-to-wear brand created in 2010 by Simon Porte Jacquemus
when he was only 19.
In 2010, JACQUEMUS made an outstanding appearance at Paris Fashion Week and in 2011, the
first collection was presented in Paris.
Simon Porte Jacquemus created a simplified stock company (SAS) in 2013 (FW1314), 100% held
by him.
From the beginning, the brand has been built on minimalistic cuts and curated selection of fabrics
to keep an affordable price range while having a strong image based on Simon’s personality and
his team.
Since 2013, the press and buyers consistent support have contributed to JACQUEMUS’ success.
The first balance sheet that includes 3 seasons (FW1314, SS14, FW1415) showed a turnover of
almost 1.000.000€ and a profit of 100.000€.
In 2014, JACQUEMUS launched its e-shop with promising success.
In 2015, the company reached a turnover of 1.300.000€ (SS15:462.000€, Prefall
+FW1516:765.000€, online store:123.000€) and a profit of 200.000€.
2016 (SS16 & FW1617) marks a key turning point for business development. The growth rate has
been significantly higher from SS16.
Resort16: 616.000€ - 6000 pieces
SS16: 673.000€ - 7000 pieces
Resort+SS16 online store to this date: 125.000€ - 500 pieces
Prefall16: 904.000€ ordered - 6100 pieces
FW1617: 881.000€ ordered - 5700 pieces
The company aims to achieve a global turnover of 3.000.000€ in 2016 and a profit of 250.000€

Business assets

The industrial business model that has been set up with French manufacturers, and specifically
with a Parisien atelier, is flexible and allows:
- to maintain an excellent quality/price/style ratio with high margins
- to develop wider collections, launch pre-collections and deliver 2 collections per season since
FW1516
in order to create an effective impact on the market.
This model enables a strong growth in sales while keeping a selective commercial development
in-house.
Today, the brand has around 100 retailers worldwide: Dover Street Market, Net-A-Porter, Ssense,
Le Bon Marché, Corso Como, Browns, Isetan, Boon The Shop, I.T, Nordstrom, Hudson’s Bay (The
Room), Opening Ceremony, The Broken Arm, Jeffrey, MyTheresa, ShopBop, The Webster,
Selfridges, Totokaelo, Le Printemps, Luisa Via Roma, Antonioli, Forty Five Ten, Boutique 1, Saks…
Stores keep increasing their budgets due to excellent sell-thru.
Key partners such as PR Consulting for press and Bureau Betak for fashion shows contribute to
JACQUEMUS’ international acclaim.
In 2015, JACQUEMUS was the award winner of the LVMH special prize. The 150.000€ grant has
allowed an increase of investments in both the development of the collection (product
development and team enlargement) and its communication (showroom and shows).

Current situation

The show of March 2016 has elevated JACQUEMUS to the rank of major brands that both press
and buyers can not miss.
JACQUEMUS is entering a more classic operating phase. Industrial margins should progressively
return to a more normative basis, in shifting to a more common industrial business model that will
be compensated by a slight increase in prices.
The increase of direct operating costs (collection development, communication, distribution)
paired with the increase of the HR structure cost (recruitment and offering full time jobs to
freelancers) may weigh on profitability.

Short and medium term strategy

The critical size reached by JACQUEMUS, needs a more normative business model to be able to
deal with its own expansion and the fashion industry requirements as well as to meet market
expectations.

Objectives are:
- maintaining the development of the collections: 80.000€-100.000€ /season
- reinforcing the commercial development (prospection, events, online store, enlarging the inhouse team): 25.000€ /season
- enhancing the communication investments (shows, brand identity, digital): 150.000€ /season
- moving to a more secure industrial business model to anticipate the volume increase and keep
up with the delivery windows. Since SS16, JACQUEMUS has already been working with a new
industrial partner.
- transitioning the HR organization (team mainly consist of freelancers). In December 2015, an
operations manager joined the team to optimize the operational schedule and the
administrative management as the first employee, followed by the employment of 4 exfreelancers. The salary cost will reach 250.000€ in June 2016.
while:
- facing the financing of the upcoming seasons, with the revenues of the previous ones, remains
difficult when the turnover keeps on increasing
- retailers are no longer accepting prepayment conditions and are asking for extension of
payment period
- no external revenues (services/consulting) are recorded in 2016 to this date (versus 2015)
and the intention to:
- open a JACQUEMUS house in Paris (September 2016) to show and reinforce the identity and
dimension of the brand. An investment of 300.000€ would be needed to get the space that has
already been found.

Simon Porte Jacquemus wants to keep its independence.

In 2016, the company solicited the IFCIC (fashion loan) and their bank: CIC, as well as the
ANDAM, to be able to achieve its objectives and finance the projects that will help raise the brand
to the next level.

P&L 2014-2017

2014

2015

2016

2017

(20 months)

(12 months)

 

 

N-2

N-1

N

N+1

1 027 621

1 325 693

2 864 896

4 240 600

Inventoried products

12 958

153 690

n/a

n/a

Others

16 355

110 750

93 250

27 000

1 056 934

1 590 133

2 958 146

4 267 600

492 122

765 534

1 396 252

2 045 000

Taxes

4 000

1 000

5 000

10 000

Salaries

9 157

26 400

223 800

475 200

29 655

2 000

15 000

20 000

Other expenses

390 284

594 564

934 266

1 374 238

Total operating expenses

925 218

1 335 498

2 569 317

3 914 438

Operating profit

131 716

254 636

388 829

353 162

1 531

-500

6 000

10 000

Financial profit

-1 531

500

-6 000

-10 000

Income taxes

33 136

77 100

119 177

37 390

Net profit

97 049

177 536

269 652

315 772

Cash flow

126 704

179 536

284 652

335 772

 
Turnover

Total Revenues
Purchases

Depreciations

Financial expenses

Financial Plan – 2016- 2017

Expenditures

2016

2017

N

N+1

TOTAL

Investments

280 000

60 000

340 000

Working capital requirement

176 376

147 299

323 675

0

0

0

Others
Debts repayments

 

 

 
0

0

0

- new Bank CIC

17 466

34 932

52 398

IFCIC

57 828

57 828

115 656

531 670

320 059

951 729

- past

Total Expenditures
 

 
Resources

Own- resources

 

 
N

TOTAL

N+1

 

 

 
267 652

319 772

587 424

- capital

0

0

0

- current account

0

0

0

Bank debt (CIC)

100 000

IFCIC loan

100 000

- cash flow

Subsidies/Prize/Others
Total Resources

 

100 000

 
 

250 000
717 652

100 000
 

319 772

 

250 000
1 037 424

KOCHE

Personal Information

Company Information

•  Name: Christelle Koché
•  Age: 35
•  Nationality: French
•  CV :
2010-current: Artistic Director, Atelier Lemarié

•  Date of creation: 2014
•  Nationality: French
•  1st commercial season: SS2015
•  Production sites: France, Portugal, Roumania
•  Turnover FW16: 300K€

2010-2014: Women Designer, Bottega Veneta
2006-2008: Women Designer, Chloé
2003-2006: Women Designer, Martin Sitbon
•  Education: Central Saint Martins London
•  Website: www.koche.fr
•  Email: christelle@koche.fr

•  Turnover/export 2015: 230 K€ / 90%
•  Turnover/export 2014: 110 K€ / 90%
•  Number of POS: 30
•  Main POS: Nordstrom, Selfridges, United Arrows,
Barneys NY, Galerie Lafayette, Boon The Shoop,
Isetan, IT HK

Development thanks to ANDAM

•  Find a new studio to develop the team and hire three to five people, especially a production manager and
a sales manager
•  Integrate durably a small embrodery team to produce small series and develop a handmade line with
Haute Couture pieces in collaboration with craftsmen and schools.
•  Develop the shows and a communication campaign to maximise visibility
•  Develop the ecommerce channel and open its first store in Paris win 2017 and, in a second time,
worldwide.

RUNWAY FW16

RUNWAY SS16

EMBROIDERIES

THE BRAND
KOCHÉ is a paris born brand created in 2015 by christelle kocher.
KOCHÉ is combining the french heritage of couture with some influences of sportswear and menswear.
the design has a strong connection with contemporary art. a strong emphasize is put on the craft and
embellishment : embroidery, print, plissé.
the collection is mostly produced in france, but also in europe for some more affordable pieces.

KOCHÉ collaborate for some iconic pieces with some of the best french artisans including the
famous maisons d’art lesage, lemarié, montex, goossens.

KOCHÉ

is grounded in a luxury ready-to-wear line with international outreach, to be grown into a
brand universe featuring bags, shoes, accessories and jewelry.

KOCHÉ is now sold internationally in more than 30 stores like montaigne market (paris), galeries
lafayette (paris), ikram (chicago), barneys (new york), nordstrom (USA), selfridges (london),
united arrows (tokyo), isetan (tokyo), i.t. (honk kong) …
KOCHÉ has joined the official calendar of paris ready to wear fashion week since october 2015.

THE VISION
KOCHÉ imagines fashion as a global platform of expression, many collaborations with artists are one
of KOCHÉ’s signature.
for every collection a specific place of the city in paris is chosen for different reasons : cultural,
architectural, sociological, political. photography, movie, music are created based on this choice.
KOCHÉ extends the vision of its creation to its shows.
the first show took place in the forum des halles , a huge shopping center located in the heart of paris
who also functions as a subway connection to the suburbs. it is a non elitist crossroad between people.
for the second show, KOCHÉ chose the old 18th century passage du prado in paris 10th
arrondissement, filled these days with a world-sourced shops.
it was a clear message about a multicultural paris that

KOCHÉ feels very strongly connected to.

they take place in public space, mixing fashion specialists to passers by the project is to stimulate
dialogues between the collection, the city and its inhabitants.

the notion of contrast and dialogue is one of the core values of

KOCHÉ.

THE DESIGNER
christelle kocher is a french designer graduated from central saint martins

- london in 2002.

before launching her brand, christelle kocher has gained 12 years of experience in the high luxury
fashion industry

:

she had been successively working with emporio armani, martine sitbon, chloé, sonia

rykiel, dries van noten, bottega veneta. since 5 years, she is also the artistic director of the maison
d’art lemarié.

KOCHÉ in 2015 when she could master all the aspects of the management of a
fashion house, from creation to production, communication to team leading.

she launched her brand

THE LINE
the line has a very strong product and brand positioning. she offers a very specific feminine, casual yet
highly luxurious approach, with a large range going from easy to wear pieces to almost haute couture
pieces to fashion ready-to-wear.



FEMININE



- KOCHÉ is for refined, sophisticated yet strong and independent women. the line is conceived
as a resolutely modern approach to life, fashion and femininity.

CASUAL


- drawing its inspiration from a contemporary vision of the world, the collection supports the

notion of relaxed street style combined with timeless elegance.

LUXURIOUS



- the collection will feature exceptionnal pieces, mixing the most refined and delicate

materials with the know-how and craftsmanship of the french couture heritage.

the strong inspirational link of

KOCHÉ

to contemporary art unfolds in the form of associations

created for the collection, assembled in pieces of fabric, and inspirational embroidered pieces.

the line is declined in three levels of craft and pricing accordingly.

CLASSIC



- delicate materials and fabrication, easy classic pieces, first price access.

EXCLUSIVE


- core of the collection, luxury ready to wear with exclusive design details

ICONIC


- iconic embroidered and limited, almost couture pieces

UPCOMING DEVELOPMENTS

KOCHÉ will need to develop its structure.
the andam prize would help to finance those following points :

in order to reach business targets for the years to com,

communication
defilé

KOCHÉ. The

:

concept is original and lively and has been greatly appreciated.

to consolidate and strengthen the concept which will necessitate investments on the
support and cabin/models

- 2017.

KOCHÉ needs
team, technical

in order to strengthen international visibility, the missions and assignment of the pr bureau lucien
pagès will need to be extended and financed

in 2017

- 2017.

: branding project, in preparation of the retail and e-commerce development, defining the concept
of KOCHÉ retail experience.
in 2018, development of an international communication campaign, both print and digital.

team

:

: 2016 (on board).
director of production : before end of year 2017.
community manager / web master : 2016.
head of sales : before end of year 2017.
ceo

:

digital

activation of a web & digital-marketing project

- 2016.
KOCHÉ

development of an e-commerce sales channel, following the concept of
e-commerce will be developed around a selection of

retail

retail experience;

KOCHÉ line & web exclusives - 2017.

:

KOCHÉ retail experience - 2017.
launching of a pop-up-store-ateliers program : 2017.

opening of the first b&m shop, following the concept of

8 CITÉ DU LABYRINTHE
75020 PARIS
T. 01 71 27 66 10
M. OFFICE@KOCHE.FR

OAMC

Personal Information
•  Name: Arnaud Faeh/ Luke Meier
•  Age: 28 / 40
•  Nationality: French / Canadian
•  CV Luke Meier:
2010-2015: Creative Director, Carhartt Heritage
2002-current: Creative Director/Consultant,
Supreme
•  CV Arnaud Faeh:
2013-current: Creative Consultant for Bargella
Invest AG & Carhartt WIP
2006-2013: Brand Manager, Creative Director,
Carhartt WIP
•  Education: Polimoda / FIT
•  Website: www.oamc.com
•  Email: arnaud.faeh@oamc.com /
lucasdmeier@gmail.com

Company Information
•  Date of creation: 07/03/2014
•  Nationality: Italian
•  Structure: 25% Arnaud Faeh, 25% Luke Meier,
50% Work in Progress AG
•  1st commercial season: AW2014
•  Production sites: France, Italy, Japan, Portugal
•  Turnover/result/export 2015: 1.7M€ / - 1.6M€ /
85% export
•  Turnover/result/export 2014: 1M€ / - 1.5M€ / 80%
export
•  Number of POS: 95
•  Main POS: Lane Crawford, IT HK, Mr Porter,
TomorrowLand, colette, Le Bon Marché, Isetan,
Selfridges, Barneys

Development thanks to ANDAM

•  Open a design and development studio in Paris and become a Parisian Fashion House.
•  Develop the team in Paris by hiring design assistants and a graphic designer in order to move step by
step the development to Paris
•  Get closer to French factories to make the best products possible in the locations that have the highest
level of sensitivity and ‘finesse’
•  Move from a multimarque showroom to having its own showroom in Paris
•  Launch the online store and open its first own store in Paris

pour
ANDAM 2016

FALL WINTER 2016

SPRING SUMMER 2016

BUSINESS PLAN
2015–2017

2015
IN EUR
SALES
Fall / Winter
Spring / Summer (actual)
Spring / Summer (next year)
TOTAL

MILAN


TOTAL

976,499
976,499

477,600
477,600

228,500
228,500


2016
PARIS LAB

MILAN


TOTAL

2017
PARIS LAB

MILAN

0 1,700,000
1,700,000

0 650,000

650,000

0 450,000
450,000


0 2,500,000
0 850,000
0 750,000

2,500,000
850,000
750,000

0 4,100,000

4,100,000



1,682,599


1,682,599

0 2,800,000


TOTAL TURNOVER



1,682,599


1,682,599

0 2,800,000

2,800,000
4,100,000

Costs of Goods sold
Gross profit
Margin in %





- 919,097
- 919,097

0 - 1,367,500
- 1,367,500

0 - 1,600,000
763,502
763,502

0 1,432,500
1,432,500

0 2,500,000
45 %

45.4 %

51.2 %
51.2 %

61.0 %

Samples, Collection, etc.
TOTAL GROSS PROFIT



Sales expenses
Freight
Marketing
Expenses
Sales Commission
Wages & salary
Rent
Overhead
Interest
OPERATING COSTS
ANDAM prize money










NET PROFIT





- 1,045,148*


- 1,045,148*

- 281,646


- 281,646

TOTAL

- 65,000 - 755,000

- 65,000

677,500


2,800,000

4,100,000
- 1,600,000
2,500,000
61.0 %

- 820,000

- 200,000 - 620,000

- 820,000

612,500

- 200,000 1,800,000

1,680,000

- 140,000
- 140,000

0 - 160,000
- 160,000

0 - 180,000
- 180,000
- 89,175
- 89,175

- 5,000 - 30,000
- 35,000

- 15,000 - 25,000
- 40,000
- 216,551
- 216,551

0 - 320,000
- 320,000

0 - 320,000
- 320,000
- 80,000
- 80,000

- 10,000 - 90,000
- 100,000

- 30,000 - 70,000
- 100,000
– 134,327
– 134,327

0 - 364,000
- 364,000

0 - 435,500
- 435,500
- 355,354
- 355,354

- 48,000 - 419,600
- 467,600

- 158,000 - 327,600
- 485,600
- 45,000
- 45,000

- 15,600 - 55,800
- 71,400

- 46,800 - 55,800
- 102,600
- 159,772
- 159,772

- 20,000 - 80,292
- 100,292

- 20,000 - 70,292
- 90,292
- 86,555
– 86,555

- 120,000
- 120,000 - 150,000

- 150,000
- 1,306,734

- 98,600 – 1,639,692

- 269,800 - 1,634,192

163,600 163,600

- 86,400 86,400
- 1,588,380


* This includes samples and developments from 2014

- 1,588,380

0

- 962,192


- 962,192

- 383,400 - 245,808

- 137,592

BUSINESS PLAN

2015
OAMC is currently designed in Paris from Luke’s personal live / work space. All
products are then developed at OAMC’s studio in Milan where Luke’s assistant
is based. Our wish is to open a design and development studio in Paris as soon
as possible. We have always wanted to be closer to the French savoir-faire and
incorporate it more into our products. Because of the costs that this project
represents, we presently cannot afford it. ANDAM’s prize money, however, would
grant us the ability to pursue this goal.
2016
Ideally we would like to find a space in the heart of Paris and start by creating a
proper office for the creative director. We would also hire a Paris-based design
assistant, a pattern maker and a graphic designer, positions that are vacant right
now. Paris will become the place where OAMC is conceived, designed, and sketched,
and where ideas are generated until they are ready to be industrially developed by
the Milan office. Initially, the main costs to sustain this ‘laboratory’ are the salaries of
the team, the rent of the office, and the capital to develop new ideas and concepts.

2017
Gradually we will move our development office from Milan to Paris. As shown in the
business plan, we will use the ANDAM prize money and part of the money that we are
investing in Italy to enlarge our Paris atelier and have our product developers come
to work close to the designers. The steps for this transition have to be slow, but the
final objective is to have the complete design and development force based in Paris,
while keeping a small production office in Milan.
A benefit to having our team in Paris will be to explore French factories and
manufacturing options, and then produce more and more of our products in France.
Making the best products possible in the locations that have the highest level of
sensitivity and ‘finesse’ is the ultimate objective for OAMC. France has a deep history
of high-level product making and a certain aplomb that can’t be found anywhere
else on Earth. We truly want to explore this path in France. We are not looking to use
ANDAM’s prize ­money to buy our growth, we are looking to use it to go further into
development and push OAMC products to be the best they possibly can.
OAMC is currently sold in 100 accounts worldwide, all from the highest profile. In
2017 we plan to continue growing in the wholesale channel by working deeper with
our e
­ xisting partners and opening new accounts in new territories. We also plan
to launch our online store and a brick and mortar store will follow as soon as it is
possible. We shall be able to hit break even in 2018.
Eventually, most of the company shall be based in Paris, including our sales
showroom and management. It’s very important for Arnaud who is French (and
presently based in Milan) to go back to Paris and work closely with Luke under the
same roof everyday. We like the fact that no one can really tell where OAMC is from or
where it is based, but since we show OAMC at Men’s Fashion Week in Paris and want
to move our office there, Paris is where we want to open our first store.
We simply believe that Paris is the best base for Luke and Arnaud. We definitely
want to keep our production office in Italy and continue to work between Paris and
Milan. Without ANDAM’s prize money this is not something we are even disposed to
consider. We hope that we will be able to begin our Parisian chapter very soon!

WANDA NYLON

Personal Information
•  Name: Johanna Senyk
•  Age: 35
•  Nationality: French
•  CV :
2011-2013: Casting Director, JW Anderson &
Cédric Charlier
2009-2011: Assistant, Anthony Vaccarello
2003-2011: Maida Gregory’s Assistant, casting
director
•  Education: autodidact
•  Website: www.wandanylon.fr
•  Email: johanna@wandanylon.fr

Company Information
•  Date of creation: 29/06/2012
•  Nationality: French
•  1st commercial season: June 2012, SS13
•  Production sites: France
•  Turnover/result/export 2015: 622 K€ / 0 € / 82%
•  Turnover/result/export 2014: 605 K€/ + 13 K€ /
78%
•  Number of POS: 41
•  Main POS: Selfridges London, Tom Greyhound
Paris, Maria Luisa Paris, Follie Follie Italy,
L’Espionne Paris, Restir Tokyo, Fashion Albright
Library NY, Smets Belgique & Luxembourg

Development thanks to ANDAM

•  Reinforce the creative studio with two permanent pattern makers, one prototypes-technician, one
collection manager
•  Increase the collection size with new materials, fabrics and a accessories lines.
•  Strenghten communication (mainly the show) and production follow-up
•  Develop sales thanks to a full time commercial manager, selected agents, corners, pop-up and shops in
shop in department stores
•  Objectives in 2017/18: 2,5M€ turnover and 140 retailers

2016

FALL WINTER 16_17

SRING SUMMER 16_17


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