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THE

IN II. IG HT

MAGAZINE

OF

ANA

GROUP

Your Complimentary Copy

fr*ËrE

&

Home to
a World

Fe
q
tr{

r

ffi

,

I

t ililil

E

îI

Story & Photographs by Tony McNicol

ÿ./E )âtr2'AfrEtl

%
@

ttrt;stxr

luue

zo La

'

f

apans nrlio:ral dr rtk is oh<rt ialted

I winc. bur rs anr sake aÀcionaoo ir il- Lell
I uou, thrt d".'.rilres it). pneJ*.rLlLe r)ror(
,,
flrân ir§ prodtlctioil. fol orrc il itrq s.ll.e ir
not ferrnented lilie a rçine but brei''ed like
beer For another, uuiike rr-ine. it genetirlh
isnt matuled tbr long peliods bLit drunk

a

l ithin months.
th(r( i\ Jlre\L.l\l;,1 ioc\ery rt e: hence non, I ar.n standing iir ir dimh
lit rootn sttt-r'otrnded bt r,rt' LtI',on to" o:relatively tlesl.r, usuallv
Bttt. oicour.c.

dusqv cerarnic flaslis. The sake l.rere certainli'
is lnatured, sone 1br decades, and comes

from one of the most remarkable
in J;rpar.r.

+Ê! E riiÉEâHi&Tâ'b " tx?IiÉ ",

lic.

brer.r,eries

The personable and dapper CEO of the
T§ukino Katsura, Tokubee lvlasuda, is keen
to rell r.r.re how l.ris tàrnily has run the brerv
ery since it was tbunded over 340 yeârs ago.
Masuda is the 14th generation orvner.

Tü,qÉ
1

É!iÉig

âl {3 ts æiË

fr. -àm,

É4ÉË[ ââi,F{fi

,

With Age Comes

È

ïokubee l"lasuda dapper
CEO of ïsuk no Katsura,

E ül * ÉrI. *4. ? + fr ÉtuËÈ

prepares various bottles
lor tasting; koshu nraiured
sake in the cool cornfort
of a storage area vau i.
The brewery has a clarnl

Êa+ÈiË51iÉ6 E, ,Emtr
Ttrt+EeiE , Eÿ1., Ë sT {Ë..*1ü Ë &.^Ii*tr'É. Ë6ffi *ffàffi lEt<F.ïIEl, mëEÉt[&trÊ+É!Ff Fq
- - .tâÉ]tr E 7-i! îf ffi EPEI.
ë,{e, Efi,Rrnljffi âflj|.. &}4,æfiù!*Ê--tf,
iI)t ÉÊÉT ô,8,,8 E Ë-tlFflF+É1, +BilEffi .
r:iEÉTffi&iËiÈ, *É E*Ëâ€EliEr:_-, Ë
wÉ.+eifr.t tL++,
'EZÊ" igr r4ÈlffiGÉ'r CEO 1ÈiHietrL
*,ù'Ë *i+ f,T T Hâ,*êij* Etn lEI9éÉÈàâ{ë
iÈrE!. !n r. É,iü4ËÉâi!,
fr ÿ)t 310 * +z
^ffi ft.
É,41+&T ë+êffi+ru
)Éru

ÉT

as

the

nigo,i

Ê
(

1970

:

E'iiC

+

ÉÈ

âr

itüg
), EzÊiÈtf-j6ffiHt*,

#B: ÊrtÈ
lEE)

ÿ!rî.

Eê4rls.

T§uliino I..atsura is located in the renol ned
sake LrrodLrcins lvarcl of Fushimi. r' hich

oler 10 breiçelies ir.r the 19, 0s. During the Edo period { t60l-1868 r the brer' en
also sold rice and served as an inn on the
lor,d west out ot'K1,oto. But towjr-ds the end
of that per:iod, during the ciraros that accom-

boasted

tbund itselioi.r the r''ror.rs side of a civil wtrr
and, supp',ortine the shogunate, uas burned
to the grourd. An impressive and unusual
family heirlooln is an unexploded cannon
shell that lirndeel in their gardei.r.



-4

But the brer'r,ely was rebuilt. Ar.rd thar.rks to
Masuda's tàtl.rer, l.eiichi, a tireless ir.rnovator,

Tsukino Katsura became one of Iâpan's tèrv
producers of nrirtured sake, also lir.town as
Àosürl ("'old sake" ). Yet ren.ralkably, 50 years

d§.

trgo rvhen lvlasuda Sr. srarred planning to sell

.

aged sahe, l.re i.rad virtually no competitors,

.\

says his sori. "There were a tèrv plarces where
sake had been left over by accident,

but my

*

tàtl.rel was the first person to n.lirke koshu

intentior.rally."

ln tàct, he rvas very tàr ti'om being the first
person to produce koshu, although he may
l.rave

been the ûrst modern brerver. Ancient

Japan's r.robility erloyed koshu t'or centulies

(the hoi polloihad,to be content with â more

ltfl



^

FêTlÉÉilJ&

æ+â!È8" Eâ'ÊTtllù
lirEË-*fi!Ë 'È" (TE

Aged Sake House

panied the end oi rhe shogunate, the blewery

2 'Ê cEo

aieÉttÈâ-r ttaÆ#

É A ffi ËÈ'E-

160!1868

prodLrae

selie.

E66B
lIl,ËEB H É! E

Mr lt rt,
H É 14 1+r.1Ér, ÉirÈs.tft

l-.'.dA iË

to

fir_st

{clouôr

ÈiÂ2âE

Fine

Tâste

\

rough and ready bre\,v), but it tèll out of favor
\rith modernization.
fhe re.rsons for thar *ere both pecuni.try
and pragmatic. From the end ofthe 19th
centun' onirards, brervers l.rad to pav tax on
sake as soon as it ivas made. If the,v lett it to
mature, thel'd hare a longer wait to gei their
n.rone,v back. Another problem was that sake

particularly susceptible to going bad. The
longer it is lett to mature, the greater the
chance of the entire batch ending up r-rndrinkable ancl unsellable. \\h1, r isk financial

200 rrkq,o-s w666block prints, passed down

through tl.re lamily since the Edo period.
Or er a cup ofgreen tea with Masuda and

his rr'itè, Kahoru, I was surprised to find that

used them to distract tax ofÊcials who came

Fushinrl saIe brev,,ing
during the Edo period

to surr ev {he brewery.
Irr la.t.

trr

business tbr sake brer,vem of the time. Some

brewers rr,ere known to underdeclare tl.reir
outpuT or even brew sake secretl,v to avoid
paying tax. It is said that the unscrupulous
n.rigl.rt shave tl.re ir.rsicle

ofthe

sake vats after

they'd been measured by lhe terxnan: any-

thing to fit in

a

little extrâ.

So when Masuda's tàther decided to mature

their brewery's sake, he looked not to fellou,
brerçers but the Ho ttcln Slrckkan, an exhalustire account ofEdo food cultule published
in 1697, listing medicinal values of various

Sake Goes Chic

plants and animals, ir.rcluding a detailed de-

about rvine. He chose Germrny because he
bclieved th:rt the sweel nnd ironratic wines

l,ith

lacquc-r

covered paulownia wood stoppers. Antique
washl paper is pasted on top to complete the

N{atured sake lvtrsn't the only innovation that
Masuda Sr brought to tl.re historic brewery.

In 1965 he travelled to Gernany ro learn

there were closer to sake than drier. more
acidic French wines.

"One reason he went was that if sake
u,as eoing to have ir battle a,:ainsl rr'ine, he
thought we'd better learn about the enemy,"
jokes Masuda.

seal. As in ancient times. most of their sake is

stored at roor.l.r lemperâtlrre.
As well as being a brewer, scholar, and

gentleman, Masuda's father lr,as an euthtsiastic collector. He amassed 500 to 600 items

of salie ware. The brewery also has 150 to

Sake had an unglamorous image in laparr

ât the tirre. To put it bhrntly, it was seen as
a

drink tbr old

t.nen to get

drunk and

nois1.

on. Deciding that sake needs to be as chic as
wine, Masuda's tàther started sake meet ups
centercd on fine tbod, fine wine, and knowl-

(sh,,Je) at

entranae. lulasuda

a wLlodblo.k

(

inspecLions were a seriou<

almostin.rmediatel,v-i

Tl.re f.lasks are still there, sealed

rgE

paper

disaster by aging it when salie could be sold

scription ofhow to brew and age sake.
The book stipulated the sake be stored ir.r
ceranic tlasks, which T§ukir.ro Katsura dutifully replicated ttrr theil second-floor "cellari'

Exterior wall vents ard
ae sure
sgns of a bre'Ner)1 as is
Shinto iesioôn ol straw
rope (sirmenawa) and
elongated burlding

they also own a striking set of erotic sfuunga
prints. Ilasuda jokes that his grar.rdfather

is

Learning from History

Long Look Back

I601-IBbs),

w,fe

l;horu

the

exriines

pri.t ol

.r',hile

sit

he and
with histori.

kc,shu brcwlng do.umenis.

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edgeable conrersation abont sake. Pârticipa-

tion rrns by invitation onlv. and guests paid

hard to find in Japan. Older koshu is rare, and
it's r.rot easy to flnd Tsukino liatsura s older

It ras a p.rioneerirg initiative that has
been much copied by brerrcrs since. Tsukino
Katsura alone har.e held over' 1,400 such

r.intages in the shops. To my deligl.rt, however,

meet-ups to dâte.

the brervery's long counter'. There is regular

Another exarnple of innovation is Tsukino
Katsura's claim to har.e invented an entire

sake, nigori zalie, and ofcourse, koshu.

a tèe.

câtegolv of sake. hr 1964 they rvere one

llro', n .r. iris.,r'i"clor-rdy" in fapanese. Traditionall),, salie
is lefined by filtering out the t'ice. Tsukino
ol-thÈ fitrt to \ell s.rlie

Katsura, or.r the other hand, used
cage to trap only the largest bits

a

l

Masuda prepares tbr me a selection of sake
to taste and is lining up bottles and glasses or.r

Higher grades of sake rvith a relatively
robust body tend to mâke better koshu, Ma

with Tsukir.ro Katsura

suda tells me. I start

s

unmatured sake, try some nigori, then move
on to the three-year koshu.

ire mesl.t

of rice, leav-

ing a cloudy sake of quite dilTerent char.lcter.

,.

The last has a dry sherry aroma and per-

haps a hint of /rorrba seareecl too. The 10yenr koshu shares some

ofthe same taste

profile [rut is noticeably r.nore rounded and
tâstes almost sweet.

All are delicious.

Half-Century Sake:
An Angel's Share
This year marlis a half-century since Tsukino
hatsura caretully stored their first koshu.
That batch is lapar.r's oldest commercially
brewed koshu-tr testament to the fàrsightedness of NIasr:da's fàtl.rer. There are just
40 liters remainir.rg, and when it soon goes

on sale asa S0-,vear vintase, it n,illbe rs
500-n.rillrliter bottles priced in the thousands

ofdollals.
Nlasuda explair.rs that the alcohol conteltt

ofthe

will have barely changed during
its long sleep, brLt about ;r third r,r,ill have
sake

mysteriously evaporated rhrough the walls of
the ceramic ilasks. It's r,hat whiskev distillers
call the "angel's sl.rare."

High on

a wall by the door of the brelvery

is a sn.rall Shinto shrine dedicated to the sal<e

gods. During the brewing season at Tsukino

Katsura, Masuda ar.rd his employees begin
Ivlasuda describes it as an updated version

of

repaying their share, )apan's oldest sake was
protected dr-lril1g the câtastrophic Greât

no Katsura ingeniously convinced the al-t.

Har.rshin Earthquake

thorities their nigoli was refir.red, just tl.rrough
a coarser mesh.

Ald thirr*s

to the efforts

of

of

1995.

And now the Masudas' koshu is safe for
the next generation. They have two sons at

Tsukino Katsura and other brerveries, the new

university and a daughter at school, and their

sake style caugl.rt on. There are now over a

elder son already says he is interested in taking

thousand llgorl :aÈes available

It

ir.r

Japan.

is now half a century since Masuda Sr.

started makir.rg koshu, and mature sake is

30

Ar\l with a prayer.
\\4rether it was the strke gods, or the angels

the u.orkir.rg day at 4

doburokt, wl.rich is unfiltered sake.
At the time rcgulations stipulated that sake
must be "r'efined," i.e., clear In the end, Tsuki-

ÿlN{;sP^N

lur.,rE

20

6

over one day. It loolis like the

familyt custodi-

anship ofthis ver.rerable and miraculous brew
is set to continue for many years to come.

Cloudy and Bright
CEO Masuda stands tall,
as does Tsul<ino Katsuras
cloudy sparkling nrgori
:rle lwai lunmâi Dalqinto
(whrie label), Ànd bùght

lo-year matured Kohaku

Hlkari Sake (gold label).
Ïhe mists of tinre and
brewery history yleld to
h s harrds an unexploded
cannon shell that lell on

the garden dufing lale
9th century civil strife.

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