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f

apans nrlio:ral dr rtk is oh<rt ialted

I winc. bur rs anr sake aÀcionaoo ir il- Lell
I uou, thrt d".'.rilres it). pneJ*.rLlLe r)ror(
,,
flrân ir§ prodtlctioil. fol orrc il itrq s.ll.e ir
not ferrnented lilie a rçine but brei''ed like
beer For another, uuiike rr-ine. it genetirlh
isnt matuled tbr long peliods bLit drunk

a

l ithin months.
th(r( i\ Jlre\L.l\l;,1 ioc\ery rt e: hence non, I ar.n standing iir ir dimh
lit rootn sttt-r'otrnded bt r,rt' LtI',on to" o:relatively tlesl.r, usuallv
Bttt. oicour.c.

dusqv cerarnic flaslis. The sake l.rere certainli'
is lnatured, sone 1br decades, and comes

from one of the most remarkable
in J;rpar.r.

+Ê! E riiÉEâHi&Tâ'b " tx?IiÉ ",

lic.

brer.r,eries

The personable and dapper CEO of the
T§ukino Katsura, Tokubee lvlasuda, is keen
to rell r.r.re how l.ris tàrnily has run the brerv
ery since it was tbunded over 340 yeârs ago.
Masuda is the 14th generation orvner.

Tü,qÉ
1

É!iÉig

âl {3 ts æiË

fr. -àm,

É4ÉË[ ââi,F{fi

,

With Age Comes

È

ïokubee l"lasuda dapper
CEO of ïsuk no Katsura,

E ül * ÉrI. *4. ? + fr ÉtuËÈ

prepares various bottles
lor tasting; koshu nraiured
sake in the cool cornfort
of a storage area vau i.
The brewery has a clarnl

Êa+ÈiË51iÉ6 E, ,Emtr
Ttrt+EeiE , Eÿ1., Ë sT {Ë..*1ü Ë &.^Ii*tr'É. Ë6ffi *ffàffi lEt<F.ïIEl, mëEÉt[&trÊ+É!Ff Fq
- - .tâÉ]tr E 7-i! îf ffi EPEI.
ë,{e, Efi,Rrnljffi âflj|.. &}4,æfiù!*Ê--tf,
iI)t ÉÊÉT ô,8,,8 E Ë-tlFflF+É1, +BilEffi .
r:iEÉTffi&iËiÈ, *É E*Ëâ€EliEr:_-, Ë
wÉ.+eifr.t tL++,
'EZÊ" igr r4ÈlffiGÉ'r CEO 1ÈiHietrL
*,ù'Ë *i+ f,T T Hâ,*êij* Etn lEI9éÉÈàâ{ë
iÈrE!. !n r. É,iü4ËÉâi!,
fr ÿ)t 310 * +z
^ffi ft.
É,41+&T ë+êffi+ru
)Éru

ÉT

as

the

nigo,i

Ê
(

1970

:

E'iiC

+

ÉÈ

âr

itüg
), EzÊiÈtf-j6ffiHt*,

#B: ÊrtÈ
lEE)

ÿ!rî.

Eê4rls.

T§uliino I..atsura is located in the renol ned
sake LrrodLrcins lvarcl of Fushimi. r' hich

oler 10 breiçelies ir.r the 19, 0s. During the Edo period { t60l-1868 r the brer' en
also sold rice and served as an inn on the
lor,d west out ot'K1,oto. But towjr-ds the end
of that per:iod, during the ciraros that accom-

boasted

tbund itselioi.r the r''ror.rs side of a civil wtrr
and, supp',ortine the shogunate, uas burned
to the grourd. An impressive and unusual
family heirlooln is an unexploded cannon
shell that lirndeel in their gardei.r.



-4

But the brer'r,ely was rebuilt. Ar.rd thar.rks to
Masuda's tàtl.rer, l.eiichi, a tireless ir.rnovator,

Tsukino Katsura became one of Iâpan's tèrv
producers of nrirtured sake, also lir.town as
Àosürl ("'old sake" ). Yet ren.ralkably, 50 years

d§.

trgo rvhen lvlasuda Sr. srarred planning to sell

.

aged sahe, l.re i.rad virtually no competitors,

.\

says his sori. "There were a tèrv plarces where
sake had been left over by accident,

but my

*

tàtl.rel was the first person to n.lirke koshu

intentior.rally."

ln tàct, he rvas very tàr ti'om being the first
person to produce koshu, although he may
l.rave

been the ûrst modern brerver. Ancient

Japan's r.robility erloyed koshu t'or centulies

(the hoi polloihad,to be content with â more

ltfl



^

FêTlÉÉilJ&

æ+â!È8" Eâ'ÊTtllù
lirEË-*fi!Ë 'È" (TE

Aged Sake House

panied the end oi rhe shogunate, the blewery

2 'Ê cEo

aieÉttÈâ-r ttaÆ#

É A ffi ËÈ'E-

160!1868

prodLrae

selie.

E66B
lIl,ËEB H É! E

Mr lt rt,
H É 14 1+r.1Ér, ÉirÈs.tft

l-.'.dA iË

to

fir_st

{clouôr

ÈiÂ2âE

Fine

Tâste

\