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revue technique volkswagen golf 2 1984 1992 essence .pdf



Nom original: revue-technique-volkswagen-golf-2-1984-1992-essence.pdf
Titre: Haynes Golf2 84 - 92 essence N° 1081
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VW Golf & Jetta
Service and Repair Manual
I M Coomber and Christopher Rogers
Models covered
VW Golf & Jetta Mk 2 models with petrol engines, including fuel injection, catalytic converter,
Formel E, 16-valve and special/limited edition models 1043 cc, 1272 cc, 1595 cc & 1781 cc

(1081 - 344 - 1AA11)

Covers mechanical features of Van. Does not cover Convertible, Rallye, Caddy, diesel engine, 4 -wheel drive, Mk 1 models
or new Golf range introduced in February 1992

© Haynes Publishing 1997

ABCDE
FGHIJ
KLMNO
PQRST
123

A book in the Haynes Service and Repair Manual Series
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or
transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or
mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any
information storage or retrieval system, without permission in
writing from the copyright holder.

Printed by J H Haynes & Co. Ltd, Sparkford, Nr Yeovil, Somerset
BA22 7JJ, England
Haynes Publishing
Sparkford Nr Yeovil
Somerset BA22 7JJ England
Haynes North America, Inc
861 Lawrence Drive
Newbury Park
California 91320 USA

ISBN 1 85960 282 7

Editions Haynes S.A.
147/149, rue Saint Honoré, 75001 PARIS, France

British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library

Haynes Publishing Nordiska AB
Fyrisborgsgatan 5, 754 50 Uppsala, Sverige

Contents
LIVING WITH YOUR VOLKSWAGEN GOLF OR JETTA
Introduction

Page

0•4

Safety First!

Page

0•5

Introduction

Page

0•6

If your car won’t start

Page

0•6

Jump starting

Page

0•7

Wheel changing

Page

0•8

Identifying leaks

Page

0•9

Towing

Page

0•9

Roadside Repairs

Weekly Checks
Introduction

Page 0•10

Underbonnet check points

Page 0•10

Engine oil level

Page 0•11

Coolant level

Page 0•11

Brake fluid level

Page 0•12

Power steering fluid level

Page 0•12

Screen/headlamp washer fluid level

Page 0•13

Wiper blades

Page 0•13

Tyre condition and pressure

Page 0•14

Battery

Page 0•15

Electrical systems

Page 0•15

Lubricants and fluids

Page 0•16

Capacities and tyre pressures

Page 0•17

MAINTENANCE
Routine Maintenance and Servicing
Servicing specifications

Page

1•2

Vehicles manufactured before August 1985

Page

1•5

Vehicles manufactured after August 1985

Page

1•6

Maintenance - component location

Page

1•7

Maintenance procedures

Page 1•10

Maintenance schedule:

Contents
REPAIRS & OVERHAUL
Engine and Associated Systems
Engine repair procedures - 1.05 and 1.3 litre - pre August 1985

Page 2A•1

Engine repair procedures - 1.05 and 1.3 litre - post August 1985

Page 2B•1

Engine repair procedures - 1.6 and 1.8 litre 8 valve

Page 2C•1

Engine repair procedures - 1.8 litre 16 valve

Page 2D•1

Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

Page

Fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor models

Page 4A•1

Fuel and exhaust systems - K-Jetronic fuel injection - 8 valve engines

Page 4B•1

Fuel and exhaust systems - K-Jetronic fuel injection - 16 valve engines

Page 4C•1

Fuel and exhaust systems - Mono Jetronic fuel injection

Page 4D•1

Fuel and exhaust systems - Digijet fuel injection

Page 4E•1

Fuel and exhaust systems - Digifant fuel injection

Page 4F•1

Ignition system - contact breaker type

Page 5A•1

Ignition system - transistorised type

Page 5B•1

Ignition system - fully electronic type

Page 5C•1

Starting and charging systems

Page 5D•1

3•1

Transmission
Clutch

Page

Manual gearbox

Page 7A•1

6•1

Automatic transmission

Page 7B•1

Driveshafts

Page

8•1

Braking system

Page

9•1

Suspension and steering

Page 10•1

Brakes and Suspension

Body Equipment
Bodywork and fittings

Page 11•1

Body electrical systems

Page 12•1

Wiring Diagrams

Page 12•17

REFERENCE
Dimensions and Weights

Page REF•1

Conversion Factors

Page REF•2

Buying Spare Parts and Vehicle Identification

Page REF•3

General Repair Procedures

Page REF•4

Jacking and Vehicle Support

Page REF•5

Tools and Working Facilities

Page REF•6

MOT test checks

Page REF•8

Fault Finding

Page REF•12

Glossary of Technical Terms

Page REF•20

Index

Page REF•25

0•4

Introduction

The Mk. II Volkswagen Golf and Jetta range of models was
introduced in March 1984, revised body and trim features being the
main visual difference to the earlier range of models.
The engine/transmission is mounted transversely at the front of the
vehicle, drive being to the front wheels. Detailed improvements have
been made throughout the years of manufacture to improve power
output and economy. These include the introduction of hydraulic

bucket tappets, the Digifant, Digijet and Mono-Jetronic fuel injection
systems, the 16-valve engine fitted to the GTi variant, the fully
electronic ignition system (FEI), the 085 5-speed gearbox and several
other minor modifications and revisions.
As with earlier models the new range is proving popular, giving
economy, reliability, comfort and, if previous models can be used as a
yardstick, long life.

VW Golf
VW Jetta

The VW Golf & Jetta Team
Haynes manuals are produced by dedicated and
enthusiastic people working in close co-operation. The
team responsible for the creation of this book included:
Authors

Ian Coomber
Cristopher Rogers

Sub-editors

Carole Turk
Sophie Yar

Editor & Page Make-up

Steve Churchill

Workshop manager

Paul Buckland

Photo Scans

John Martin
Paul Tanswell
Steve Tanswell

Cover illustration & Line Art

Roger Healing

We hope the book will help you to get the maximum
enjoyment from your car. By carrying out routine
maintenance as described you will ensure your car’s
reliability and preserve its resale value.

Your Volkswagen Golf and
Jetta Manual
The aim of this Manual is to help you get the best value from your
vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work
must be done (even should you choose to get it done by a garage),
provide information on routine maintenance and servicing, and give a
logical course of action and diagnosis when random faults occur.
However, it is hoped that you will use the Manual by tackling the work
yourself. On simpler jobs it may even be quicker than booking the car
into a garage and going there twice, to leave and collect it. Perhaps
most important, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the costs a
garage must charge to cover its labour and overheads.
The Manual has drawings and descriptions to show the function of
the various components so that their layout can be understood. Then
the tasks are described and photographed in a clear step-by-step
sequence.

Acknowledgements
Thanks are due to Champion Spark Plug who supplied the
illustrations showing spark plug conditions, to Duckhams Oils, who
provided lubrication data and also to Sykes-Pickavant Limited, who
supplied some of the workshop tools, and to all those people at
Sparkford who helped in the production of this Manual.
We take great pride in the accuracy of information given in this
Manual, but vehicle manufacturers make alterations and design
changes during the production run of a particular vehicle of which
they do not inform us. No liability can be accepted by the authors
or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or
omissions from the information given.

Safety first!
Working on your car can be dangerous.
This page shows just some of the potential
risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a
safety-conscious attitude.

General hazards
Scalding
• Don’t remove the radiator or expansion
tank cap while the engine is hot.
• Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid or
power steering fluid may also be dangerously
hot if the engine has recently been running.

Burning
• Beware of burns from the exhaust system
and from any part of the engine. Brake discs
and drums can also be extremely hot
immediately after use.

Crushing
• When working under or near
a raised vehicle,
always
supplement the
jack with axle
stands, or use
drive-on
ramps.
Never
venture
under a car which
is only supported by a jack.
• Take care if loosening or tightening hightorque nuts when the vehicle is on stands.
Initial loosening and final tightening should
be done with the wheels on the ground.

• Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make
sure that any mains-operated equipment is
correctly earthed. Mains power points should
be protected by a residual current device
(RCD) circuit breaker.

Fume or gas intoxication
• Exhaust fumes are
poisonous; they often
contain carbon
monoxide, which is
rapidly fatal if inhaled.
Never run the
engine in a
confined space
such as a garage
with the doors shut.
• Fuel vapour is also
poisonous, as are the vapours from some
cleaning solvents and paint thinners.

Poisonous or irritant substances
• Avoid skin contact with battery acid and
with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially
antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel
fuel. Don’t syphon them by mouth. If such a
substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes,
seek medical advice.
• Prolonged contact with used engine oil can
cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use a
barrier cream if necessary. Change out of oilsoaked clothes and do not keep oily rags in
your pocket.
• Air conditioning refrigerant forms a
poisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame
(including a cigarette). It can also cause skin
burns on contact.

Fire

Asbestos

• Fuel is highly flammable; fuel vapour is
explosive.
• Don’t let fuel spill onto a hot engine.
• Do not smoke or allow naked lights
(including pilot lights) anywhere near a
vehicle being worked on. Also beware of
creating sparks
(electrically or by use of tools).
• Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don’t
work on the fuel system with the vehicle over
an inspection pit.
• Another cause of fire is an electrical
overload or short-circuit. Take care when
repairing or modifying the vehicle wiring.
• Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type
suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires.

• Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled
or swallowed. Asbestos may be found in
gaskets and in brake and clutch linings.
When dealing with such components it is
safest to assume that they contain asbestos.

Electric shock
• Ignition HT
voltage can be
dangerous,
especially to
people with heart
problems or a
pacemaker. Don’t
work on or near the
ignition system with
the engine running or
the ignition switched on.

0•5

Special hazards
Hydrofluoric acid
• This extremely corrosive acid is formed
when certain types of synthetic rubber, found
in some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc, are
exposed to temperatures above 4000C. The
rubber changes into a charred or sticky
substance containing the acid. Once formed,
the acid remains dangerous for years. If it
gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to
amputate the limb concerned.
• When dealing with a vehicle which has
suffered a fire, or with components salvaged
from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves
and discard them after use.

The battery
• Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which
attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care
when topping-up or carrying the battery.
• The hydrogen gas given off by the battery
is highly explosive. Never cause a spark or
allow a naked light nearby. Be careful when
connecting and disconnecting battery
chargers or jump leads.

Air bags
• Air bags can cause injury if they go off
accidentally. Take care when removing the
steering wheel and/or facia. Special storage
instructions may apply.

Diesel injection equipment
• Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at very
high pressure. Take care when working on
the fuel injectors and fuel pipes.
Warning: Never expose the hands,
face or any other part of the body
to injector spray; the fuel can
penetrate the skin with potentially fatal
results.

Remember...

A few tips

DO

DON’T

• Do use eye protection when using power
tools, and when working under the vehicle.

• Don’t attempt to lift a heavy component
which may be beyond your capability – get
assistance.

• Do wear gloves or use barrier cream to
protect your hands when necessary.
• Do get someone to check periodically
that all is well when working alone on the
vehicle.
• Do keep loose clothing and long hair well
out of the way of moving mechanical parts.
• Do remove rings, wristwatch etc, before
working on the vehicle – especially the
electrical system.
• Do ensure that any lifting or jacking
equipment has a safe working load rating
adequate for the job.

• Don’t rush to finish a job, or take
unverified short cuts.
• Don’t use ill-fitting tools which may slip
and cause injury.
• Don’t leave tools or parts lying around
where someone can trip over them. Mop
up oil and fuel spills at once.
• Don’t allow children or pets to play in or
near a vehicle being worked on.

0•6

Roadside repairs

The following pages are intended to help in dealing with
common roadside emergencies and breakdowns. You will find
more detailed fault finding information at the back of the
manual, and repair information in the main chapters.

If your car won’t start
and the starter motor
doesn’t turn

If your car won’t start
even though the starter
motor turns as normal

M If it’s a model with automatic transmission, make sure the
selector is in ‘P’ or ‘N’.
M Open the bonnet and make sure that the battery terminals
are clean and tight.
M Switch on the headlights and try to start the engine. If the
headlights go very dim when you’re trying to start, the
battery is probably flat. Get out of trouble by jump starting
(see next page) using a friend’s car.

M Is there fuel in the tank?
M Is there moisture on electrical components under the
bonnet? Switch off the ignition, then wipe off any obvious
dampness with a dry cloth. Spray a water-repellent aerosol
product (WD-40 or equivalent) on ignition and fuel system
electrical connectors like those shown in the photos.
Pay special attention to the ignition coil wiring connector
and HT leads.

A

Check that the HT lead connections at
the distributor are clean and make sure
they are secure by pushing them onto
the cap.

B

Check that the HT lead connections at
the spark plugs are secure by pushing
them onto the plugs.

Check that electrical connections are secure (with the ignition switched off) and spray them
with a water dispersant spray like WD40 if you suspect a problem due to damp

C

Check that the LT lead connections are
clean and secure.

D

Check the security and condition of the
battery connections.

E

Wiring plugs may cause problems if dirty
or not connected properly.

Roadside repairs
Jump starting will get you out
of trouble, but you must correct
whatever made the battery go
flat in the first place. There are
three possibilities:
The battery has been drained by
repeated attempts to start, or by
leaving the lights on.

1

The charging system is not working
properly (alternator drivebelt slack
or broken, alternator wiring fault or
alternator itself faulty).

2
3

1

0•7

Jump starting
When jump-starting a car using a
booster battery, observe the following
precautions:

4 Make sure that the booster battery is

4 Before connecting the booster

4 If the battery is being jump-started

the same voltage as the discharged
one in the vehicle.
from the battery in another vehicle,
the two vehcles MUST NOT TOUCH
each other.

battery, make sure that the ignition is
switched off.
4 Ensure that all electrical equipment

(lights, heater, wipers, etc) is
switched off.

4 Make sure that the transmission is in

neutral (or PARK, in the case of
automatic transmission).

The battery itself is at fault
(electrolyte low, or battery worn out).

Connect one end of the red jump lead to
the positive (+) terminal of the flat
battery

2

Connect the other end of the red lead to
the positive (+) terminal of the booster
battery.

3

Connect one end of the black jump lead
to the negative (-) terminal of the
booster battery

4

Connect the other end of the black
jump lead to a bolt or bracket on the
engine block, well away from the
battery, on the vehicle to be started.

5

Make sure that the jump leads will not
come into contact with the fan, drivebelts or other moving parts of the
engine.

6

Start the engine using the booster
battery, then with the engine running at
idle speed, disconnect the jump leads in
the reverse order of connection.

0•8

Roadside repairs

Wheel changing
Some of the details shown here will vary
according to model. For instance, the location
of the spare wheel and jack is not the same on
all cars. However, the basic principles apply
to all vehicles.

Warning: Do not change a wheel in a situation where you risk being hit by
another vehicle. On busy roads, try to stop in a lay-by or a gateway. Be wary of
passing traffic while changing the wheel - it is easy to become distracted by
the job in hand.

Preparation
M If you have one, use a warning triangle to
alert other drivers of your presence.
M Apply the handbrake and engage first or
reverse gear (or Park on models with
automatic transmission.

M Chock the wheel diagonally opposite the
one being removed – a couple of large
stones will do for this.
M If the ground is soft, use a flat piece of
wood to spread the load under the jack.

1

The spare wheels and tools are stored in
the luggage compartment. Release the
retaining strap and lift out the jack and
tools from the centre of the wheel.

2

3

4

5

M When a puncture occurs, stop as soon as
it is safe to do so.
M Park on firm level ground, if possible,
and well out of the way of other traffic.
M Use hazard warning lights if necessary.

Changing the wheel

Locate the jack below the reinforced
point on the sill and on firm ground. Turn
the jack handle to raise the car until the
wheel is clear of the ground.

Unscrew the retaining nut and lift the
wheel out of the vehicle.

Unscrew the wheel bolts and remove the
wheel. Fit the spare wheel and screw in
the wheel bolts. Lightly tighten them
using the wheelbrace, then lower the car to
the ground.

Finally...
M Remove the wheel chocks.
M Stow the jack and tools in the correct locations in the car.
M Check the tyre pressure on the wheel just fitted. If it is low, or if you don’t have a pressure
gauge with you, drive slowly to the nearest garage and inflate the tyre to the right pressure.
M Have the damaged tyre or wheel repaired as soon as possible.

Remove the wheel trim/hub cap from the
wheel (some trims have retaining screws
which must be undone first). Slacken
each wheel bolt by half a turn.

6

Once the car is on the ground, tighten the
wheel bolts securely in a diagonal pattern
using the wheelbrace. At the earliest
possible opportunity, have the wheel bolts
slackened and then tightened to the correct
torque wrench setting.

Roadside repairs

0•9

Identifying leaks
Puddles on the garage floor or drive, or
obvious wetness under the bonnet or
underneath the car, suggest a leak that needs
investigating. It can sometimes be difficult to
decide where the leak is coming from,
especially if the engine bay is very dirty
already. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blown
rearwards by the passage of air under the car,
giving a false impression of where the
problem lies.

Warning: Most automotive oils
and fluids are poisonous. Wash
them off skin, and change out of
contaminated clothing, without
delay.

The smell of a fluid leaking
from the car may provide a
clue to what’s leaking. Some
fluids are distinctively
coloured. It may help to clean the car
carefully and to park it over some clean
paper overnight as an aid to locating the
source of the leak.
Remember that some leaks may only
occur while the engine is running.

Sump oil

Oil from filter

Gearbox oil

Engine oil may leak from the drain plug...

...or from the base of the oil filter.

Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at the
inboard ends of the driveshafts.

Antifreeze

Brake fluid

Power steering fluid

Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystalline
deposit like this.

A leak occurring at a wheel is almost
certainly brake fluid.

Power steering fluid may leak from the pipe
connectors on the steering rack.

Towing
When all else fails, you may find yourself
having to get a tow home – or of course you
may be helping somebody else. Long-distance
recovery should only be done by a garage or
breakdown service. For shorter distances, DIY
towing using another car is easy enough, but
observe the following points:
M Use a proper tow-rope – they are not
expensive. The vehicle being towed must
display an ‘ON TOW’ sign in its rear window.
M Always turn the ignition key to the ‘on’
position when the vehicle is being towed, so

that the steering lock is released, and that the
direction indicator and brake lights will work.
M Only attach the tow-rope to the towing
eyes provided.
M Before being towed, release the handbrake
and select neutral on the transmission.
M Note that greater-than-usual pedal
pressure will be required to operate the
brakes, since the vacuum servo unit is only
operational with the engine running.
M On models with power steering, greaterthan-usual steering effort will also be required.

M The driver of the car being towed must
keep the tow-rope taut at all times to avoid
snatching.
M Make sure that both drivers know the route
before setting off.
M Only drive at moderate speeds and keep
the distance towed to a minimum. Drive
smoothly and allow plenty of time for slowing
down at junctions.
M On models with automatic transmission,
special precautions apply. If in doubt, do not
tow, or transmission damage may result.

0•10

Weekly checks

Introduction
There are some very simple checks which
need only take a few minutes to carry out, but
which could save you a lot of inconvenience
and expense.

M Keeping an eye on tyre condition and
pressures, will not only help to stop them
wearing out prematurely, but could also save
your life.

These "Weekly checks" require no great skill
or special tools, and the small amount of time
they take to perform could prove to be very
well spent, for example;

M Many breakdowns are caused by electrical
problems. Battery-related faults are particularly
common, and a quick check on a regular basis
will often prevent the majority of these.

M If your car develops a brake fluid leak, the
first time you might know about it is when
your brakes don't work properly. Checking
the level regularly will give advance warning of
this kind of problem.
M If the oil or coolant levels run low, the cost
of repairing any engine damage will be far
greater than fixing the leak, for example.

Underbonnet check points
§ All models
(typical)

A

Engine oil level
dipstick

B
C

Engine oil filler cap

D
E

Brake fluid reservoir

F

Screen washer fluid
reservoir

G

Battery

Coolant expansion
tank

Power steering fluid
reservoir

Weekly checks

0•11

Engine oil level
Before you start
4 Make sure that your car is on level ground.
4 Check the oil level before the car is driven,
or at least 5 minutes after the engine has been
switched off.
If the oil is checked immediately after driving the
vehicle, some of the oil will
remain in the upper engine
components, resulting in an inaccurate
reading on the dipstick!

The correct oil

1

The dipstick is located at the right-hand
end of the engine (see “Underbonnet
check points” on page 0•10 for exact
location). Withdraw the dipstick.

2

3

4

Using a clean rag or paper towel remove
all oil from the dipstick. Insert the clean
dipstick into the tube as far as it will go,
then withdraw it again.

Modern engines place great demands on their
oil. It is very important that the correct oil for
your car is used (See “Lubricants, fluids and
capacities”).

Car Care
l If you have to add oil frequently, you should
check whether you have any oil leaks. Place
some clean paper under the car overnight,
and check for stains in the morning. If there
are no leaks, the engine may be burning oil
(see “Fault Finding”).
l Always maintain the level between the
upper and lower dipstick marks (see photo 3).
If the level is too low severe engine damage
may occur. Oil seal failure may result if the
engine is overfilled by adding too much oil.

Note the oil level on the end of the
dipstick, which should be between the
upper ("MAX") mark and lower ("MIN")
mark. Approximately 1.0 litre of oil will raise
the level from the lower mark to the upper
mark.

Oil is added through the filler cap.
Unscrew the cap and top-up the level; a
funnel may help to reduce spillage. Add
the oil slowly, checking the level on the dipstick
often. Don’t overfill (see “Car Care” left).

Coolant level
Warning: DO NOT attempt to
remove the expansion tank
pressure cap when the engine
is hot, as there is a very great
risk of scalding. Do not leave
open containers of coolant
about, as it is poisonous.

Car Care

The coolant level varies with the
temperature of the engine. When the
engine is cold, the coolant level should
be between the MAX and MIN marks on the
side of the expansion tank. When the engine
is hot, the level may rise slightly.

2

1

l With a sealed-type cooling system, adding
coolant should not be necessary on a regular
basis. If frequent topping-up is required, it is
likely there is a leak. Check the radiator, all
hoses and joint faces for signs of staining or
wetness, and rectify as necessary.

If topping up is necessary, wait until the
engine is cold. Slowly unscrew the
expansion tank cap, to release any
pressure present in the cooling system, and
remove it.

l It is important that antifreeze is used in the
cooling system all year round, not just during
the winter months. Don’t top-up with water
alone, as the antifreeze will become too
diluted.

3

Add the recommended mixture of water
and antifreeze through the expansion
tank filler neck, until the coolant is up to
the MAX level mark. Refit the cap, turning it
clockwise as far as it will go until it is secure.

0•12

Weekly checks

Brake fluid level
Warning:
l Brake fluid can harm your
eyes and damage painted
surfaces, so use extreme
caution when handling and
pouring it.
l
Do not use fluid that has
been standing open for some
time, as it absorbs moisture
from the air, which can cause a
dangerous loss of braking
effectiveness.

1

The “MAX” and “MIN” marks are
indicated on the front of the reservoir.
The fluid level must be kept between the
marks at all times.

2

Unscrew the reservoir cap and carefully
lift it out of position, taking care not to
damage the level switch float. Inspect the
reservoir, if the fluid is dirty the hydraulic
system should be drained and refilled (see
Chapter 1).

4

• Make sure that your car is
on level ground.
• The fluid level in the
reservoir will drop slightly as
the brake pads wear down, but the fluid
level must never be allowed to drop
below the “MIN” mark.

If topping-up is necessary, first wipe
clean the area around the filler cap to
prevent dirt entering the hydraulic
system.

Safety First!
l If the reservoir requires repeated toppingup this is an indication of a fluid leak
somewhere in the system, which should be
investigated immediately.
l If a leak is suspected, the car should not be
driven until the braking system has been
checked. Never take any risks where brakes
are concerned.

3

Carefully add fluid, taking care not to spill
it onto the surrounding components. Use
only the specified fluid; mixing different
types can cause damage to the system. After
topping-up to the correct level, securely refit
the cap and wipe off any spilt fluid.

Power steering fluid level
Before you start:

For the check to be
accurate, the steering must
not be turned once the
engine has been stopped.

4 Park the vehicle on level ground.
4 Set the steering wheel straight-ahead.
4 The engine should be turned off.

1

The fluid reservoir is mounted next to the
battery in the engine compartment.
“MAX” and “MIN” level marks are
indicated on the side of the reservoir. The fluid
level should be maintained between these
marks at all times.

2

If topping-up is necessary, first wipe the
area around the filler cap with a clean rag
before removing the cap. When adding
fluid, pour it carefully into the reservoir to
avoid spillage. Be sure to use only the
specified fluid.

Safety First!
l The need for frequent topping-up indicates
a leak, which should be investigated
immediately.

3

After filling the reservoir to the proper
level, make sure that the cap is refitted
securely to avoid leaks and the entry of
foreign matter into the reservoir.

Weekly checks

0•13

Screen/headlamp washer fluid level
Screenwash additives not only keep the
winscreen clean during foul weather, they also
prevent the washer system freezing in cold

weather - which is when you are likely to need it
most. Don’t top up using plain water as the
screenwash will become too diluted, and will

1

The reservoir for the windscreen and
headlamp washer systems is located on the
left-hand side of the engine compartment,
forward of the suspension turret. The rear screen
washer system reservoir is located on the
right-hand side rear corner of the luggage
compartment. Later systems have a single
reservoir located in the engine compartment.

freeze during cold weather. On no account use
coolant antifreeze in the washer system this could discolour or damage paintwork.

2

When topping-up the reservoir(s) a
screenwash additive should be added in
the quantities recommended on the
bottle.

3

Check the operation of both screen and headlamp washers. Adjust
the nozzles using a pin if necessary, aiming the spray to a point
slightly above the centre of the swept area.
a = 345 mm
b = 420 mm
c = 320 mm
d = 300 mm

Wiper blades

1

Check the condition of the wiper blades;
if they are cracked or show any signs of
deterioration, or if the glass swept area is
smeared, renew them. Wiper blades should
be renewed annually.

2

To remove a windscreen wiper blade, pull
the arm fully away from the screen until it
locks. Swivel the blade through 90°,
press the locking tab with your fingers and
slide the blade out of the arm’s hooked end.

3

Don’t forget to check the tailgate wiper
blade as well. To remove the blade,
depress the retaining tab and slide the
blade out of the hooked end of the arm.

0•14

Weekly checks

Tyre condition and pressure
New tyres should be balanced when they are
fitted, but it may become necessary to rebalance them as they wear, or if the balance
weights fitted to the wheel rim should fall off.
Unbalanced tyres will wear more quickly, as
will the steering and suspension components.
Wheel imbalance is normally signified by
vibration, particularly at a certain speed
(typically around 50 mph). If this vibration is
felt only through the steering, then it is likely
that just the front wheels need balancing. If,
however, the vibration is felt through the
whole car, the rear wheels could be out of
balance. Wheel balancing should be carried
out by a tyre dealer or garage.

It is very important that tyres are in good
condition, and at the correct pressure - having
a tyre failure at any speed is highly dangerous.
Tyre wear is influenced by driving style - harsh
braking and acceleration, or fast cornering,
will all produce more rapid tyre wear. As a
general rule, the front tyres wear out faster
than the rears. Interchanging the tyres from
front to rear ("rotating" the tyres) may result in
more even wear. However, if this is
completely effective, you may have the
expense of replacing all four tyres at once!
Remove any nails or stones embedded in the
tread before they penetrate the tyre to cause
deflation. If removal of a nail does reveal that

the tyre has been punctured, refit the nail so
that its point of penetration is marked. Then
immediately change the wheel, and have the
tyre repaired by a tyre dealer.
Regularly check the tyres for damage in the
form of cuts or bulges, especially in the
sidewalls. Periodically remove the wheels,
and clean any dirt or mud from the inside and
outside surfaces. Examine the wheel rims for
signs of rusting, corrosion or other damage.
Light alloy wheels are easily damaged by
"kerbing" whilst parking; steel wheels may
also become dented or buckled. A new wheel
is very often the only way to overcome severe
damage.

1 Tread Depth - visual check

2 Tread Depth - manual check 3 Tyre Pressure Check

The original tyres have tread wear safety
bands (B), which will appear when the tread
depth reaches approximately 1.6 mm. The
band positions are indicated by a triangular
mark on the tyre sidewall (A).

Alternatively, tread wear can be
monitored with a simple, inexpensive device
known as a tread depth indicator gauge.

Check the tyre pressures regularly with
the tyres cold. Do not adjust the tyre
pressures immediately after the vehicle has
been used, or an inaccurate setting will result.

Tyre tread wear patterns

Shoulder Wear

Centre Wear

Uneven Wear

Underinflation (wear on both sides)
Under-inflation will cause overheating of the
tyre, because the tyre will flex too much, and
the tread will not sit correctly on the road
surface. This will cause a loss of grip and
excessive wear, not to mention the danger of
sudden tyre failure due to heat build-up.
Check and adjust pressures
Incorrect wheel camber (wear on one side)
Repair or renew suspension parts
Hard cornering
Reduce speed!

Overinflation
Over-inflation will cause rapid wear of the
centre part of the tyre tread, coupled with
reduced grip, harsher ride, and the danger of
shock damage occurring in the tyre casing.
Check and adjust pressures

Front tyres may wear unevenly as a result of
wheel misalignment. Most tyre dealers and
garages can check and adjust the wheel
alignment (or "tracking") for a modest charge.
Incorrect camber or castor
Repair or renew suspension parts
Malfunctioning suspension
Repair or renew suspension parts
Unbalanced wheel
Balance tyres
Incorrect toe setting
Adjust front wheel alignment
Note: The feathered edge of the tread which
typifies toe wear is best checked by feel.

If you sometimes have to inflate your car’s
tyres to the higher pressures specified for
maximum load or sustained high speed, don’t
forget to reduce the pressures to normal
afterwards.

Weekly checks

0•15

Battery
Caution: Before carrying out any work on the
vehicle battery, read the precautions given in
"Safety first" at the start of this manual.
4 Make sure that the battery tray is in good
condition, and that the clamp is tight.
Corrosion on the tray, retaining clamp and the
battery itself can be removed with a solution
of water and baking soda. Thoroughly rinse all
cleaned areas with water. Any metal parts
damaged by corrosion should be covered
with a zinc-based primer, then painted.
4 Periodically (approximately every three
months), check the charge condition of the
battery as described in Chapter 5A.
4 If the battery is flat, and you need to jump
start your vehicle, see Roadside Repairs.

Battery corrosion can be kept to a
minimum by applying a layer of
petroleum jelly to the clamps and
terminals after they are reconnected.

1

The battery is located on the left-hand
side of the engine compartment. The
exterior of the battery should be
inspected periodically for damage such as a
cracked case or cover.

Check the tightness of battery clamps (A)
to ensure good electrical connections.
You should not be able to move them.
Also check each cable (B) for cracks and
frayed conductors.

If corrosion (white, fluffy deposits) is
evident, remove the cables from the
battery terminals, clean them with a small
wire brush, then refit them. Automotive stores
sell a tool for cleaning the battery post . . .

4

3

Electrical systems
4 Check all external lights and the horn.
Refer to the appropriate Sections of Chapter 12 for details if any of the circuits are
found to be inoperative.

4 Visually check all accessible wiring
connectors, harnesses and retaining clips for
security, and for signs of chafing or damage.

1

If more than one indicator light or tail light
has failed it is likely that either a fuse has
blown or that there is a fault in the circuit
(see Chapter 12). The fuses are located under
the facia panel, on the right-hand side, behind
a removable cover.

If a single indicator light, stop-light or
headlight has failed, it is likely that a bulb
has blown and will need to be replaced.
Refer to Chapter 12 for details. If both stoplights have failed, it is possible that the switch
has failed.

2

2

. . . as well as the battery cable clamps

If you need to check your
brake lights and indicators
unaided, back up to a wall or
garage door and operate the
lights. The reflected light should show if
they are working properly.

To replace a blown fuse, simply pull it out
and fit a new fuse of the correct rating
(see Chapter 12). If the fuse blows again,
it is important that you find out why - a
complete checking procedure is given in
Chapter 12.

3

0•16

Lubricants and fluids

Lubricants and fluids
Component or system
Engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Lubricant or fluid

Cooling system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Ethylene-glycol based antifreeze with corrosion inhibitors.
Duckhams Antifreeze & Summer Coolant. Mixture 50% by volume

Manual gearbox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Gear oil, viscosity SAE 80
Duckhams Hypoid 80 or Hypoid 75W/90S

Automatic transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Dexron type ATF
Duckhams Uni-Matic

Multigrade engine oil to viscosity SAE 15W/50 or 20W/50
Duckhams QXR, QS, Hypergrade Plus or Hypergrade

Final drive:
Manual gearbox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Automatic transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Brake hydraulic system . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Gear oil, viscosity SAE 80
Duckhams Hypoid 80 or Hypoid 75W/90S
Gear oil, viscosity SAE 90EP
Duckhams Hypoid 90S or Hypoid 75W/90S
Hydraulic fluid to FMVSS 11 6 DOT 4
Duckhams Universal Brake and Clutch Fluid

Power steering system:
pre-April 1989 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
post-April 1989 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Dexron type ATF
Duckhams Uni-Matic
VW oil G 002 000
No Duckhams equivalent

Choosing your engine oil
Oils perform vital tasks in all engines. The
higher the engine’s performance, the greater
the demand on lubricants to minimise wear as
well as optimise power and economy.
Duckhams tailors lubricants to the highest
technical standards, meeting and exceeding
the demands of all modern engines.

HOW ENGINE OIL WORKS
• Beating friction
Without oil, the surfaces inside your engine
which rub together will heat, fuse and quickly
cause engine seizure. Oil, and its special
additives, forms a molecular barrier between
moving parts, to stop wear and minimise heat
build-up.

• Cooling hot spots
Oil cools parts that the engine’s water-based
coolant cannot reach, bathing the combustion
chamber and pistons, where temperatures
may exceed 1000°C. The oil assists in

transferring the heat to the engine cooling
system. Heat in the oil is also lost by air flow
over the sump, and via any auxiliary oil cooler.

• Cleaning the inner engine
Oil washes away combustion by-products
(mainly carbon) on pistons and cylinders,
transporting them to the oil filter, and holding
the smallest particles in suspension until they
are flushed out by an oil change. Duckhams
oils undergo extensive tests in the laboratory,
and on the road.
Note: It is
antisocial and
illegal to dump oil
down the drain.
To find the
location of your
local oil recycling
bank, call this
number free.

Engine oil types
Mineral oils are the “traditional” oils,
generally suited to older engines and cars not
used in harsh conditions. Duckhams
Hypergrade Plus and Hypergrade are well
suited for use in most popular family cars.
Diesel oils such as Duckhams Diesel are
specially formulated for Diesel engines,
including turbocharged models and 4x4s.
Synthetic oils are the state-of-the-art in
lubricants, offering ultimate protection, but at
a fairly high price. One such is Duckhams QS,
for use in ultra-high performance engines.
Semi-synthetic oils offer high performance
engine protection, but at less cost than full
synthetic oils. Duckhams QXR is an ideal choice
for hot hatches and hard-driven cars.
For help with technical
queries on lubricants,
call Duckhams Oils
on 0181 290 8207

Capacities and tyre pressures
Capacities
Component or system
Engine:

Capacity

1.05 & 1.3 litre:
rocker-finger type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
hydraulic tappet type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1.6 & 1.8 litre:
pre-August 1985 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
post-August 1985 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Cooling system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

3.0 litres with filter change
2.5 litres without filter change
3.5 litres with filter change
3.0 litres without filter change
3.5 litres with filter change
3.0 litres without filter change
4.0 litres with filter change
3.5 litres without filter change
6.3 litres

Manual gearbox:
084 type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
085 type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
020 4-speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
020 5-speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Automatic transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

2.2 litres
3.1 litres
1.5 litres
2.0 litres
6.0 litres from dry
3.0 litres service drain & fill

Final drive:
Manual gearbox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Automatic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Fuel tank . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Included in gearbox capacity
0.75 litre
55.0 litres

Tyre pressures (tyres cold)
Front

Rear

1.05 & 1.3 litre models:
Half load . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.8 bar (26 lbf/in2)
Full load . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.8 bar (26 lbf/in2)

1.8 bar (26 lbf/in2)
2.4 bar (35 lbf/in2)

1.6 & 1.8 litre models:
Half load . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 bar (29 lbf/in2)
Full load . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 bar (29 lbf/in2)

1.8 bar (26 lbf/in2)
2.4 bar (35 lbf/in2)

0•17

0•18

Notes

1•1

Chapter 1
Routine maintenance and servicing

1

Contents
Air cleaner element renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
Air conditioning system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Alternator, power steering pump and air conditioner compressor
drivebelt(s) check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Antifreeze concentration check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Automatic transmission and final drive fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
Automatic transmission fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Battery electrolyte level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Brake check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Brake fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
Brake pad and rear shoe lining check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Clutch operation check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Contact breaker point renewal and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Contact breaker point check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
CV joint and boot check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Engine oil and filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Exhaust system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Fluid leakage and engine electrical system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Fuel and brake line, hose and union check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25

Fuel filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
Fuel system control linkage check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Gearbox oil level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Headlight beam alignment check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
Hinge and catch lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Ignition timing check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Intensive maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Light, direction indicator and horn check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Lock, hinge and latch mechanism check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Seat belt check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Slow running adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Spark plug renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Steering gear check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Sunroof guide rails cleaning and lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
Suspension check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
Timing belt renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
Valve clearance check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Vehicle underbody check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31

Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience

1

Fairly easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience

2

Fairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic

3

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

Difficult, suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanic

4

Very difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional

5

1•2

Servicing specifications

Lubricants, fluids and capacities

Refer to the end of “Weekly checks”

Engine
Oil filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Champion C101/C160

Valve clearances
1.05 and 1.3 litre engines - pre August 1985:
Warm:
Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Cold:
Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.15 to 0.20 mm
0.25 to 0.30 mm
0.10 to 0.15 mm
0.20 to 0.25 mm

Hydraulic tappet free travel
1.05 and 1.3 litre - post August 1985, 1.6 and 1.8 litre (Maximum travel) . .

0.1 mm

Cooling system
Antifreeze mixture . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

50 % antifreeze (by volume) with water

Air conditioning system
Compressor drivebelt tension . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

5.0 to 10.0 mm deflection on longest run

Fuel system
Air filter element types
Carburettor engines:
1.05 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1.3 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1.6 and 1.8 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Fuel-injected engines:
K-Jetronic on 16 valve engine:
1.8 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
All other systems:
1.8 litre Golf . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1.8 litre Jetta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1.8 litre GTi ( engine code RP) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Champion W101
Champion W102
Champion U508

Champion U502
Champion U506
Champion U502
Champion U572

Fuel filter element types
Carburettor engines (all models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion L104
Fuel-injected engines:
K-Jetronic on 16 valve engine:
1.8 litre Golf . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion L203
1.8 litre Jetta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion L206
All other systems:
1.8 litre GTi ( engine code RP) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion L206
All other models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion L204*
* New copper washers must be used and these are not supplied with the filter
Idle speed
1.05 litre carburettor engines:
Pierburg/Solex 31 PIC-7 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Pierburg/Solex 1B3 and Weber 32 TLA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1.3 litre carburettor engines:
Pierburg/Solex 2E3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1.6 litre carburettor engines:
Pierburg/Solex 2E2 - engine code EZ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Pierburg/Solex 2E2 - engine code RF . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1.8 litre carburettor engines:
Pierburg/Solex 2E2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
K-Jetronic fuel-injected engine:
8 valve:
Pre Sept. 1984 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
From Sept. 1984 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Air conditioned models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
16 valve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Mono Jetronic fuel-injected engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Digijet fuel-injected engine:
Up to July 1989 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
July 1989 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Digifant fuel-injected engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

900 to 1000 rpm
750 to 850 rpm
750 to 850 rpm
900 to 1000 rpm
700 to 800 rpm
900 to 1000 rpm

900 to 1000 rpm
800 to 1000 rpm
850 to 1000 rpm
900 to 1000 rpm
750 to 950 rpm (not adjustable)
750 to 850 rpm
880 to 980 rpm
750 to 850 rpm

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

Servicing specifications
CO content (%)
1.05 litre carburettor engines:
Pierburg/Solex 31 PIC-7 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Pierburg/Solex 1B3 and Weber 32 TLA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1.3 litre carburettor engines (Pierburg/Solex 2E3) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1.6 litre carburettor engines:
Pierburg/Solex 2E2 - engine code EZ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Pierburg/Solex 2E2 - engine code RF . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1.8 litre carburettor engines (Pierburg/Solex 2E2) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
K-Jetronic fuel-injected engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Mono Jetronic fuel-injected engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Digijet fuel-injected engine:
Up to July 1989 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
July 1989 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Digifant fuel-injected engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1•3

0.5 to 1.5
1.5 to 2.5
1.5 to 2.5
0.5 to 1.5
1.0 to 1.5
0.5 to 1.5
0.5 to 1.5
0.2 to 1.2
0.3 to 1.1
0.3 to 1.5
0.5 to 1.5

Ignition system
Firing order (all engines) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1-3-4-2 (No. 1 cylinder at crankshaft pulley end)

Contact breaker system
Spark plugs*: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Type
Electrode gap
1.05, 1.3, 1.6 and 1.8 litre (pre July 1985) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion N7YCC or N7YC
0.8 mm or 0.7 mm
* Spark plug types and electrode gaps are recommended by Champion Spark Plug. If other types are used, refer to their manufacturer’s
recommendations
HT lead type:
1.05 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion LS-05 boxed set
1.3, 1.6 and 1.8 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion LS-07 boxed set
Distributor:
Contact breaker gap (initial setting only) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.4 mm
Dwell angle (1.05, 1.3 and 1.6 litre):
Setting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 to 50° (50 to 56%)
Wear limit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 to 58° (47 to 64%)
Ignition timing (at idle):
1.05 and 1.3 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 to 6° BTDC
1.6 and 1.8 litre (carburettor engine) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 to 19° BTDC
1.8 litre (fuel injection engine) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 to 7° BTDC
Transistorised system
Spark plugs*: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Type
Electrode gap
pre Sept. 1985:
1.05, 1.3, 1.6, 1.8 litre (pre July 1985) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion N7YCC or N7YC
0.8 mm or 0.7 mm
from Sept. 1985:
1.3 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion N7BYC or N7YCC
0.8 mm
1.6 litre:
Coil with green sticker . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion N9BYC4 or N9YCC
1.0 mm
Coil with grey sticker . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion N9YCC
0.8 mm
1.8 litre:
Except 16V . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion N7BYC or N7YCC
0.8 mm
16V . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion C6BYC or C6YCC
0.8 mm
* Spark plug types and electrode gaps are recommended by Champion Spark Plug. If other types are used, refer to their manufacturer’s
recommendations
HT lead type:
1.05 litre. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion LS-05 boxed set
1.3, 1.6 and 1.8 litre. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion LS-07 boxed set
Distributor:
Dwell angle (1.05,1.3 and 1.6 litre):
Setting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 to 50° (50 to 56%)
Wear limit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 to 58° (47 to 64%)
Ignition timing:
1.3 litre (code NZ) - TCI-H . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 to 6° BTDC at 750 to 850 rpm, with vacuum hose disconnected
1.6 litre (code RF) - TCI-H . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 to 19° BTDC at 700 to 800 rpm, with vacuum hose disconnected
1.8 litre:
Code PB and PF - Digifant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 to 7° BTDC at 2000 to 2500 rpm, with temperature sender disconnected
Code GU and RH - TCI-H . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 to 19° BTDC at 675 to 825 rpm, with vacuum hose connected
Code RP - TCI-H . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 to 7° BTDC at 950 rpm, with vacuum hose disconnected
Fully electronic system
All Specifications as for Transistorised System except for:
Ignition timing:
1.8 litre 16 valve engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

5 to 7° BTDC at 950 to 1050 rpm, with vacuum hose connected

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

1

1•4

Servicing specifications

Charging system
Alternator drivebelt tension
Initial adjustment for new drivebelt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Adjustment after 500 miles (750 km) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Models after early 1985 fitted with rack type adjustment link . . . . . . . .

2.0 mm deflection under finger pressure at point midway between
alternator and crankshaft pulleys
5.0 mm deflection under finger pressure at same point
8 to 10 Nm (6 to 7 Ibf ft) torque loading on adjuster bolt

Clutch
Free play at clutch pedal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

15 to 20 mm

Braking system
Pad thickness
Front disc brakes:
New - excluding backplate:
1.05 and 1.3 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1.6 and 1.8 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1.8 litre with ventilated discs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Minimum - including backplate:
All models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Rear disc brakes:
New - including backplate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Minimum - including backplate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Shoe lining thickness
Rear drum brakes:
Minimum - including shoe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Minimum - excluding shoe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

12.0 mm
14.0 mm
10.0 mm
7.0 mm
12.0 mm
7.0 mm

5.0 mm
2.5 mm

Steering
Power steering pump drivebelt tension . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

10.0 mm deflection under firm finger pressure at point midway
between pump and crankshaft pulleys

Tyre pressures

Refer to the end of “Weekly checks”

Torque wrench settings

Nm

lbf ft

Engine
Sump drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Valve cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

30
10

22
7

20

15

10
25

7
18

25
20

18
15

Charging system
Alternator mounting/pivot bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Alternator adjuster link bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

45
25

33
18

Manual gearbox
Oil filler plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Oil drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

25
25

18
18

Automatic transmission
Oil pan bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Oil strainer (filter) cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

20
3

15
2

Steering
Power steering pump/swivel bracket bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Power steering pump tensioner/bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

20
20

15
15

Roadwheels
Roadwheel bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

110

81

Body fittings
Seat belt anchor bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

40

30

Ignition system
Contact breaker system:
Spark plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Distributor clamp bolt:
1.05 and 1.3 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1.6 and 1.8 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Transistorised and fully electronic systems:
Spark plugs:
1.05 and 1.3 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1.6 and 1.8 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

Maintenance schedule
The maintenance intervals in this Manual
are provided with the assumption that you will
be carrying out the work yourself. These are
the
minimum
maintenance
intervals
recommended by the manufacturer for
vehicles driven daily. If you wish to keep your
vehicle in peak condition at all times, you may

wish to perform some of these procedures
more often. We encourage frequent
maintenance, because it enhances the
efficiency, performance and resale value of
your vehicle.
If the vehicle is driven in dusty areas, used
to tow a trailer, or driven frequently at slow

1•5

speeds (idling in traffic) or on short journeys,
then more frequent maintenance intervals are
recommended.
When the vehicle is new, it should be
serviced by a factory-authorised dealer
service department, in order to preserve the
factory warranty.

Vehicles manufactured before August 1985
Every 250 miles (400 km) or weekly
m see “Weekly checks”

Every 1000 miles (1500 km)
or monthly
m Check lock, hinge and latch mechanisms
(Section 3)
m Check seat belts (Section 4)
m Check brakes (Section 5)
m Check for fluid leakage and engine electrical
system security (Section 6)
m Check battery electrolyte level (Section 7)
m Check air conditioning system (Section 8)
m Check and lubricate fuel system control linkage
(Section 9)
m Check operation of lights, direction indicators and
horns (Section 10)

Every 5000 miles (7500 km)
or 6 months
m Check contact breaker points (Section 11)

Every 10 000 miles (15 000 km)
or 12 months
m Check valve clearances (Section 12)
m Check alternator, power steering pump and air
conditioner compressor drivebelt(s) adjustment and
condition (Section 13)
m Check antifreeze concentration (Section 14)
m Renew spark plugs (Section 15)
m Renew and adjust contact breaker points (Section 16)
m Check ignition timing (Section 17)
m Renew engine oil and filter (Section 18)
m Check exhaust system (Section 19)
m Adjust slow running (Section 20)
m Check clutch operation (Section 21)
m Check gearbox oil level (Section 22)
m Check automatic transmission fluid level (Section 23)
m Check CV joints and boots (Section 24)
m Check fuel and brake lines, hoses and unions
(Section 25)
m Check brake pads and rear shoe linings (Section 26)
m Check headlight beam alignment (Section 27)
m Check steering gear (Section 28)
m Check suspension (Section 29)
m Lubricate hinges and catches (Section 30)
m Check vehicle underbody (Section 31)

Every 20 000 miles (30 000 km)
or 24 months
m Renew air cleaner element (Section 32)
m Renew fuel filter (Section 33)

Every 30 000 miles (45 000 km)
m Renew automatic transmission and final drive fluid
(Section 35)

Every 2 years
m Renew brake fluid (Section 36)

Every 40 000 miles (60 000 km)
m Renew timing belt (Section 37)

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

1

1•6

Maintenance schedule

Vehicles manufactured after August 1985
Every 250 miles (400 km) or weekly
m See “Weekly checks”

Every 1000 miles (1500 km)
or monthly

m Renew engine oil and filter (Section 18)
m Check brake pad linings (Section 26)

m Check lock, hinge and latch mechanisms
(Section 3)
m Check seat belts (Section 4)
m Check brakes (Section 5)
m Check for fluid leakage and engine electrical
system security (Section 6)
m Check battery electrolyte level (Section 7)
m Check air conditioning system (Section 8)
m Check and lubricate fuel system control linkage
(Section 9)
m Check operation of lights, direction indicators and
horns (Section 10)

Every 12 months
m
m
m
m
m
m
m
m
m
m
m
m
m
m

Every 10 000 miles (15 000 km) - if
completing more than 10 000 miles
(15 000 km) per annum

Check antifreeze concentration (Section 14)
Renew engine oil and filter (Section 18)
Check exhaust system (Section 19)
Check idling speed and mixture (Section 20)
Check clutch operation (Section 21)
Check automatic transmission fluid level
(Section 23)
Check CV joints and boots (Section 24)
Check fuel and brake lines, hoses and unions
(Section 25)
Check brake pads and rear shoe linings
(Section 26)
Check headlight beam alignment (Section 27)
Check steering gear (Section 28)
Check suspension (Section 29)
Lubricate hinges and catches (Section 30)
Check vehicle underbody (Section 31)

Every 20 000 miles (30 000 km)
m Check alternator, power steering pump and air
conditioner compressor drivebelt(s) adjustment and
condition (Section 13)
m Renew spark plugs (Section 15)
m Renew air cleaner element (Section 32)
m Renew fuel filter (Section 33)
m Clean and lubricate sunroof guide rails (Section 34)
m Renew automatic transmission and final drive fluid
(Section 35)

Every 2 years
m Renew brake fluid (Section 36)

Every 40 000 miles (160 000 km)
m Renew timing belt (Section 37)

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

Maintenance - component location

1•7

Underbonnet view – 1.3 litre model (air cleaner removed)
1 Engine oil dipstick
2 Fuel line filter
3 Brake master cylinder
reservoir
4 Carburettor
5 Ignition coil
6 Cooling system expansion
tank
7 Windscreen/headlight
washer reservoir
8 Ignition distributor
9 Battery
10 Cooling fan
11 Engine oil filler cap

1

Underbonnet view – fuel injection model
1 Engine oil dipstick
2 Compressor (air
conditioning)
3 Fuel distributor
4 Alternator
5 Engine oil filler cap
6 Brake master cylinder
reservoir
7 Throttle housing
8 Ignition coil
9 Cooling system expansion
tank
10 Windscreen/headlamp
washer reservoir
11 Battery
12 Clutch cable
13 Cooling fan
14 Ignition distributor

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

1•8

Maintenance - component location

Front underbody view - 1.3 litre model
1
2
3
4
5

Alternator
Oil filter
Driveshaft
Front mounting
Cooling system bottom
hose
6 Gearbox
7 Track control arm
8 Tie-rod
9 Exhaust
10 Engine sump

Front underbody view - fuel injected model
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9

Driveshaft
Front mounting
Starter motor
Gearbox
Track control arm
Tie-rod
Anti-roll bar
Exhaust system
Engine sump

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

Maintenance - component location

1•9

Rear underbody view - 1.3 litre model
1 Exhaust
2 Fuel tank
3 Rear shock absorber lower
mounting
4 Axle beam
5 Handbrake cable (righthand)
6 Handbrake cable (left-hand)
7 Rear drum brake

1

Rear underbody view - fuel injected model
1 Exhaust
2 Fuel tank
3 Rear shock absorber lower
mounting
4 Axle beam
5 Fuel pump and associated
fittings
6 Brake pressure regulator
7 Rear disc brake

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

1•10

Maintenance procedures

1 Introduction

This Chapter is designed to help the home
mechanic maintain his/her vehicle for safety,
economy, long life and peak performance.
The
Chapter
contains
a
master
maintenance schedule, followed by Sections
dealing specifically with each task in the
schedule. Visual checks, adjustments,
component renewal and other helpful items
are included. Refer to the accompanying
illustrations of the engine compartment and
the underside of the vehicle for the locations
of the various components.
Servicing your vehicle in accordance with
the mileage/time maintenance schedule and
the following Sections will provide a planned
maintenance programme, which should result
in a long and reliable service life. This is a
comprehensive plan, so maintaining some
items but not others at the specified service
intervals, will not produce the same results.
As you service your vehicle, you will
discover that many of the procedures can and should - be grouped together, because of
the particular procedure being performed, or
because of the close proximity of two
otherwise-unrelated components to one
another. For example, if the vehicle is raised
for any reason, the exhaust can be inspected
at the same time as the suspension and
steering components.

The first step in this maintenance
programme is to prepare yourself before the
actual work begins. Read through all the
Sections relevant to the work to be carried
out, then make a list and gather together all
the parts and tools required. If a problem is
encountered, seek advice from a parts
specialist, or a dealer service department.

2 Intensive maintenance

1 If, from the time the vehicle is new, the
routine maintenance schedule is followed
closely, and frequent checks are made of fluid
levels and high-wear items, as suggested
throughout this Manual, the engine will be
kept in relatively good running condition, and
the need for additional work will be minimised.
2 It is possible that there will be times when
the engine is running poorly due to the lack of
regular maintenance. This is even more likely
if a used vehicle, which has not received
regular and frequent maintenance checks, is
purchased. In such cases, additional work
may need to be carried out, outside of the
regular maintenance intervals.
3 If engine wear is suspected, a compression
test will provide valuable information
regarding the overall performance of the main
internal components. Such a test can be used
as a basis to decide on the extent of the work
to be carried out. If, for example, a
compression test indicates serious internal

engine wear, conventional maintenance as
described in this Chapter will not greatly
improve the performance of the engine, and
may prove a waste of time and money, unless
extensive overhaul work is carried out first.
4 The following series of operations are those
most often required to improve the
performance of a generally poor-running
engine:

Primary operations
a) Clean, inspect and test the battery
b) Check all the engine-related fluids
c) Check the condition and tension of the
auxiliary drivebelt
d) Renew the spark plugs
e) Inspect the distributor cap and HT leads as applicable
f) Check the condition of the air cleaner
filter element, and renew if necessary
g) Renew the fuel filter (if fitted)
h) Check the condition of all hoses, and
check for fluid leaks
i) Check the idle speed and mixture settings
- as applicable
5 If the above operations do not prove fully
effective, carry out the following secondary
operations:

Secondary operations
a)
b)
c)
d)

Check the charging system
Check the ignition system
Check the fuel system
Renew the distributor cap and rotor arm as applicable
f) Renew the ignition HT leads - as applicable

Every 1000 miles (1500 km) or monthly
3 Lock, hinge and latch
mechanism check

1

Check the security and operation of all
hinges, latches and locks.
Check the condition and operation of the
tailgate struts, renewing them if either is
leaking or is no longer able to support the
tailgate securely when raised.

4 Seat belt check

2 Ensure that all belt mounting bolts are
securely tightened. Note that the bolts are
shouldered so that the belt anchor points are
free to rotate.
3 If there is any sign of damage, or any doubt
about a belt’s condition, it must be renewed.
If the vehicle has been involved in a collision
any belts in use at the time must be renewed
as a matter of course and all other belts
should be checked carefully.
4 Use only warm water and non-detergent
soap to clean the belts. Never use any

1

1 Check the webbing of each belt for signs of
fraying, cuts or other damage, pulling the belt
out to its full extent to check its entire length.
Check the operation of the buckles by fitting
the belt tongue plate and pulling hard to ensure
that it remains locked, then check the retractor
mechanism (inertia reel only) by pulling out the
belt to the halfway point and jerking hard. The
mechanism must lock immediately to prevent
any further unreeling but must allow free
movement during normal driving.

5.4 Check brake fluid level warning device

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

chemical cleaners, strong detergents, dyes or
bleaches. Keep the belts fully extended until
they have dried naturally; do not apply heat to
dry them.

5 Brake check

1

1 Make sure that the vehicle does not pull to
one side when braking and that the wheels do
not lock prematurely when braking hard.
2 Check that there is no vibration through the
steering when braking.
3 Check that the handbrake operates
correctly without excessive movement of the
lever and that it holds the vehicle stationary
on a slope.
4 Check the brake warning device for correct
operation by switching the ignition on and
releasing the handbrake. Now press the
contact on the reservoir filler cap down and
get an assistant to check that the handbrake
and dual circuit warning lamp light up (see
illustration).

Every 1000 miles or monthly
6 Fluid leakage and engine
electrical system check

covered. On some batteries the case is
translucent and incorporates MINIMUM and
MAXIMUM level marks. The check should be
made more often if the vehicle is operated in
high ambient temperature conditions.
3 Top-up the electrolyte level using distilled
or de-ionised water (see illustrations).

1

1 Open the bonnet and inspect the engine
joint faces, gaskets and seals for any signs of
coolant or oil leaks. Pay particular attention to
the areas around the rocker cover, cylinder
head, oil filter and sump joint faces. Bear in
mind that over a period of time some very
slight seepage from these areas is to be
expected but what you are really looking for is
any indication of a serious leak. Should a leak
be found, renew the offending gasket or oil
seal.
2 Carefully check the condition and security
of all under bonnet coolant, fuel, power
steering and brake pipes and hoses. Renew
any hose which is cracked, swollen or
deteriorated. Cracks will show up better if the
hose is squeezed. Pay close attention to the
hose clips that secure the hoses to the system
components. Hose clips can pinch and
puncture hoses, resulting in leaks. If wire type
hose clips are used, it may be a good idea to
replace them with screw-type clips (see
Haynes Hint).

6.5 Ensure all HT lead connections are
secure
must be cleaned. A smear of petroleum jelly
(not grease) applied to the cleaned
connection will help to prevent further
corrosion.
8 Check the transmission for obvious oil
leaks and investigate and rectify any problems
found.
9 Where accessible, inspect the fuel filler
neck for punctures, cracks and other damage.
Sometimes a rubber filler neck or connecting
hose will leak due to loose retaining clamps or
deteriorated rubber.

7 Battery electrolyte level
check

A leak in the cooling system will usually
show up as white or rust coloured
deposits on the area adjoining the leak
3 Check the condition of all exposed wiring
harnesses. Ensure that all cable-ties are in
place and in good condition. Ties which are
broken or missing can lead to chafing of the
wiring which could cause serious problems in
the future.
4 Wipe away any dirt which has accumulated
on the outside of the alternator and check that
its cable connector is pushed firmly onto its
terminals.
5 Clean the ignition system HT and LT leads
by wiping along their length with a fuelmoistened cloth. Inspect each lead for
damage and renew if defective in any way.
Ensure that all lead connections are secure
and where applicable, protected (see
illustration).
6 Check that all HT and LT leads are correctly
routed and clear of moving or hot engine
components.
7 Any corroded HT or LT lead connection

1•11

2

1 A “maintenance-free” (sealed for life)
battery is standard equipment on all vehicles
covered by this Manual. Although this type of
battery has many advantages over the older
refillable type and should never require the
addition of distilled water, it should still be
routinely checked. The electrolyte level can be
seen through the battery’s translucent case
and must be between the MINIMUM and
MAXIMUM level marks. Although it should not
alter in normal use, if the level has lowered (for
example, due to electrolyte having boiled
away as a result of overcharging) it is
permissible to gently prise up the cell cover(s)
and to top-up the level.
2 If a conventional battery has been fitted as
a replacement, the electrolyte level of each
cell should be checked and, if necessary,
topped up until the separators are just

7.3a Remove battery filler caps . . .

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

If regular topping-up becomes necessary and the
battery case is not fractured,
the battery is being overcharged and the voltage regulator
and/or alternator will have to be
checked.

8 Air conditioning system
check

1

During winter months, operate the air
conditioner for a few minutes each week to
keep the system in good order.
Check that the condenser is free of dirt and
insects. If necessary, clean it either by rinsing
with a cold water hose or by blowing it clean
with an air hose. Use a soft bristle brush to
assist removal of dirt jammed in the
condenser fins.

1
9 Fuel system control linkage
check

1

Check all parts of the fuel system control
linkage for free movement throughout its
complete operating range.
Clean all linkage joints and then lubricate
with a light machine oil.

10 Light, direction indicator and
horn check

1

Check that the horn and all vehicle lights
are functioning correctly. Renew any defective
bulbs.
The headlights and (where applicable) the
foglights should be in correct alignment.

7.3b . . . and top up electrolyte level using
distilled or de-ionised water

1•12

Maintenance procedures

11.1 Disconnect LT lead (A) earth strap (B)
and release securing clips (C)

11.2 Withdraw distributor cap and screen
ring

11.3 Pull off the rotor arm

Every 5000 miles (7500 km) or 6 months
11 Contact breaker point check

2

1 Disconnect the LT lead from the terminal
block on the screening ring, then the earth
strap spade connector on the distributor body
(see illustration).
2 Release the two retaining clips and withdraw
the distributor cap, complete with screen ring,

from the distributor (see illustration).
3 Pull off the rotor arm and remove the dust
cover (see illustration).
4 Using a screwdriver, prise open the points
and inspect the condition of their faces (see
illustration). If they are pitted and
discoloured, remove them and dress them
using emery tape or a grindstone whilst
ensuring that their surfaces are flat and
parallel. If the points are worn excessively,
renew them. If the points are in good
condition, then check their adjustment.

11.4 Contact breaker points viewed
through window in bearing plate (arrowed)
- Ducellier

Every 10 000 miles (15 000 km) or 12 months
12 Valve clearance check

3

1.05 and 1.3 litre engines
1 Run the engine up to its normal operating
temperature. Stop the engine and remove the
valve cover.
2 Turn the engine until both cam peaks for No
1 cylinder are pointing upwards.
3 Insert a feeler blade of the correct thickness
(specified “Warm” clearance) between the
cam and cam follower. If the blade is not a
firm sliding fit, proceed as follows:
4 Turn the adjustable ball-stud using an Allen
key (see illustration). The valves from the

12.4 Adjusting a valve clearance 1.05 and 1.3 litre

timing belt end of the engine are in the
following order:
Inlet - Exhaust - Inlet - Exhaust - Inlet Exhaust - Inlet - Exhaust
5 Repeat the procedure given in paragraphs
2 and 3 for the remaining valves. If the engine
is rotated in its normal direction, adjust the
valves of No 3 cylinder followed by No 4
cylinder and No 2 cylinder.
6 Refit the valve cover, together with a new
gasket.

Ideally VW tools 2078 and 10.208 should
be used to remove the valve shims, but
we managed quite well with these
tools; a small electrician’s screwdriver
and a C-spanner which was just the
right size to push the bucket down
without pushing the tappet shim (ie
pushing the rim down).

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

1.6 and 1.8 litre 8 valve engines
Note: Ideally VW tools 2078 and 10.208
should be used to remove the valve shims, but
alternatives can be used (see Tool Tip)
Note: The following procedure applies only to
engines fitted with shim bucket tappets - that
is, those manufactured before August, 1985
7 Run the engine up to its normal operating
temperature. Stop the engine and remove the
valve cover.
8 Check each valve clearance in turn by
rotating the engine so that the valve to be
checked has the cam lobe facing upwards. In
this position, the valve in question is fully
closed and a feeler blade inserted between
the heel of the cam lobe and the valve tappet
shim within the tappet bucket will give the
clearance present (see illustration).

12.8 Checking a valve clearance 1.6 and 1.8 litre

Every 10 000 miles or 12 months
9 The engine will turn over more easily if the
spark plugs are removed. Do not rotate the
engine by turning the camshaft sprocket as
this will stretch the timing belt. Use the
alternator drivebelt (V-belt) or jack up one front
wheel and with the engine in gear rotate the
roadwheel. Do not turn the engine with any of
the shims removed, otherwise the camshaft
may foul the rim at the top of the bucket.
10 Repeat this measurement for all valves in
turn and then compare the measurements
with those specified (“Warm” clearance).
11 Make a table of the actual clearances and
then calculate the error from those specified.
Suppose on No 1 exhaust valve, the measured
clearance is 0.15 mm. It is 0.3 mm too small so
it must be adjusted and a shim 0.3 mm thinner
fitted instead of the present one. As the shims
are in steps of 0.05 mm variation, the required
shim can be selected once the size of the shim
at present installed is known. If you have
dismantled and reassembled the head, then
you know the size etched on the back of the
shim but if you do not, then the shim must be
removed to find out.
12 With the cam turned to give maximum
clearance, the tappet is pushed down against
the valve springs while the shim is levered out
and removed by the VW tool or a screwdriver.
Be careful, because if the spanner slips when
the shim is halfway out, the shim will fly out
sharply (see illustration).
13 Once all the shim sizes are known, a table
may be constructed and the sizes of the new
shims required may be calculated. Going back
to the example, if the present shim is marked
3.60 then one marked 3.30 is required. Bucket

adjustment should give a deflection of 2.0 mm.
After a suitable running in period of about 500
miles (750 km), belt adjustment should be
rechecked and adjusted to deflect 5.0 mm.
4 To adjust the drivebelt, loosen the nut on
the adjusting link and pivot bolt (see
illustrations), then lever the alternator away
from the cylinder block by using a lever at the
pulley end of the alternator, until the belt is
tensioned correctly.
5 Tighten the nut and bolt on completion of
drivebelt adjustment.

From 1985
12.12 Removing a tappet bucket shim 1.6 and 1.8 litre
shims are available in 26 different thicknesses
which increase in increments of 0.05 mm, from
3.00 mm to 4.25 mm.
14 As it is unlikely that you will have the
required shims readily available, it will be
necessary to wait until they have been
obtained before the tappets can be adjusted.
15 When inserting the shims, the thickness
etching faces should be facing downwards.
16 Once the correct clearances have been
achieved, refit the spark plugs and the valve
cover.

13 Alternator, power steering
pump and air conditioner
compressor drivebelt(s) check

2

1 Check all drivebelts along their full length
for cracks, splitting, fraying or damage. Check
also for signs of glazing (shiny patches) and
for separation of the belt plies. Renew the belt
if worn or damaged.
Always recheck the tension
of a new drivebelt after the
engine has been run for ten
minutes.

Alternator
Pre 1985

13.2 Checking alternator drivebelt tension

13.4a Alternator drivebelt tensioner link 1.3 litre

1•13

6 From early 1985, some models are fitted
with a rack type alternator adjustment link
(see illustration). To adjust drivebelt tension,
first fully loosen the adjustment locknut and
bolt, the link pivot bolt and the alternator pivot
bolt, so that the alternator falls to one side
under its own weight.
7 Using a socket and torque wrench on the
adjustment bolt, apply a torque of 8 to 10 Nm
(6 to 7 Ibf ft), then secure the adjustment bolt
in the set position by tightening its locknut to
35 Nm (26 Ibf ft).
8 If the special VW tool is being used, then
the adjustment bolt can now be tightened. If
not, tighten the pivot bolt then remove the
socket and immediately tighten the
adjustment bolt, making sure that the
alternator does not move.
9 Tighten the link pivot bolt and alternator
pivot bolt.

Power steering pump
10 Loosen the power steering pump unit
retaining nuts and bolts and the adjuster bolt
locknut on the pump bracket.
11 Turn the tensioning bolt until the belt can
be depressed approximately 10.0 mm under
firm finger pressure midway between the
crankshaft and pump pulleys.
12 When tension is correct, tighten the
adjusting bolt locknut and the pump retaining
nuts and bolts.

Air conditioner compressor

2 Depress the alternator drivebelt firmly with
a finger midway between the alternator and
crankshaft pulleys (see illustration). The belt
should deflect approximately 5.0 mm.
3 If a new drivebelt has been fitted, then initial

13 Drivebelt tension is adjusted by adding or
subtracting shims from between the halves of
the compressor pulley.
14 When correctly adjusted, the belt should
give a deflection of 5 to 10 mm on its longest
run.

13.4b Alternator drivebelt tensioner link 1.8 litre

13.6 Rack type alternator drivebelt
tensioner link (A) locknut (B) and
adjustment bolt (C)

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

1

1•14

Every 10 000 miles or 12 months

14 Antifreeze concentration
check

2

Warning: Wait until the engine is
cold before checking antifreeze.
Do not allow antifreeze to come
in contact with your skin or
painted surfaces of the vehicle. Rinse off
spills immediately with plenty of water.
Never leave antifreeze lying around in an
open container or in a puddle in the
driveway or on the garage floor. Children
and pets are attracted by its sweet smell.
Antifreeze is fatal if ingested.
1 The concentration of antifreeze in the
cooling system should be checked and made
good if necessary. Most garages can do this
check, or an instrument similar to a battery
hydrometer can be purchased for making the
check at home.
2 It is essential that an antifreeze mixture is
retained in the cooling system at all times to
act as a corrosion inhibitor and to protect the
engine against freezing in winter months. The
mixture should be made up from clean water
with a low lime content (preferably rainwater)
and a good quality ethylene glycol based
antifreeze which contains a corrosion inhibitor
and is suitable for use in aluminium engines.
3 The proportion of antifreeze to water must
be 50/50 and give protection down to
approximately -30ºC.
4 In climates which render frost protection
redundant, it is still necessary to use a
corrosion inhibitor in the cooling system.
Suitable inhibitors should be available from a
local VW agent or other reputable specialist.

15.2 Hold the suppresser cap when pulling
each HT lead from its spark plug
1 Where applicable, remove the air cleaner.
2 Pull the HT lead and fittings from each
spark plug, identifying them for location if
necessary (see illustration). On the 16V
engine, the end fittings incorporate
extensions, as the plugs are deeply recessed
in the cylinder head.
3 Using compressed air or a vacuum cleaner,
remove any debris from around the spark
plugs.
4 Unscrew the plugs using a plug socket,
preferably with a rubber insert to grip the plug.
5 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Tighten
each spark plug to the specified torque (see
Haynes Hint).

16 Contact breaker point
renewal and adjustment

3

Renewal

Note: Some models are fitted with a modified
ignition coil and single earth electrode spark
plugs. This modified coil is identified by a grey
(rather than green) sticker. Refer to the
Servicing Specifications at the start of this
Chapter for the recommended plug types. It is
not permissible to use new plugs with an old
coil, or vice versa.

1 Disconnect the LT lead from the terminal
block on the screening ring, then the earth
strap spade connector on the distributor
body.
2 Release the two retaining clips and
withdraw the distributor cap, complete with
screen ring, from the distributor.
3 On 1.05 and 1.3 litre engines, remove the
screws and withdraw the bearing plate (see
illustration).
4 Disconnect the moving contact LT lead
from the terminal then remove the retaining
screw and withdraw the contact breaker set
from the distributor.

16.3 Removing the bearing plate 1.05 and 1.3 litre

16.10a Checking contact breaker points
gap

15 Spark plug renewal

2

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

It is very often difficult to insert spark
plugs into their holes without crossthreading them. To avoid this possibility, fit a short length of 5/16 inch
internal diameter rubber hose over the
end of the spark plug. The flexible hose
acts as a universal joint to help align
the plug with the plug hole. Should the
plug begin to cross-thread, the hose
will slip on the spark plug, preventing
thread damage to the aluminium
cylinder head.
5 Wipe clean the contact breaker plate in the
distributor and make sure that the contact
surfaces of the new contact breaker set are
clean. Lubricate the arm surface and moving
contact pivot with a little multi-purpose
grease. Use only a small amount, otherwise
the contact points may become contaminated.
6 Fit the contact set on the baseplate and
refit the retaining screw. Connect the LT lead
to the terminal.
7 Refit the bearing plate and tighten the
screws (where applicable).
8 Adjust the contact breaker points as
follows.

Adjustment
9 Turn the engine with a spanner on the
crankshaft pulley bolt until the moving contact
point is fully open with its contact heel on the
peak of one of the cam lobes.
10 Using a feeler blade, check that the gap
between the two points is as specified. If not,
loosen the fixed contact screw and reposition
the fixed contact until the feeler blade is a firm
sliding fit between the two points. In order to
make a fine adjustment, slightly loosen the
screw then position the screwdriver in the
fixed contact notch and the two pips on the
contact plate. With the gap adjusted, tighten
the screw (see illustrations).
11 Using a dwell meter, check that the dwell
angle of the contact points is as specified
while spinning the engine on the starter. If not,
readjust the points gap as necessary. Reduce
the gap in order to increase the dwell angle, or
increase the gap in order to reduce the dwell
angle.
12 Clean the dust cover and rotor arm then
refit them. Do not remove any metal from the
rotor arm segment.

Every 10 000 miles or 12 months

16.10c Two pips and notch (arrowed) for inserting screwdriver
when adjusting contact breaker points gap

16.10b Adjusting contact breaker points gap
13 Wipe clean the distributor cap and make
sure that the carbon brush moves freely
against the tension of the spring. Clean the
metal segments in the distributor cap but do
not scrape away any metal, otherwise the HT
spark at the spark plugs will be reduced. Also
clean the HT leads and coil tower.
14 Refit the distributor cap and interference
screen.
15 Start the engine and check that the dwell
angle is as specified, both at idling and higher
engine speeds. A decrease in dwell angle at
high engine speeds indicates a weak spring
on the moving contact points.
16 After making any adjustment to the
contact breaker points, check and adjust the
ignition timing.

17 Ignition timing check

3

Contact breaker system
Note: Accurate ignition timing is only possible
using a stroboscopic timing light, although on
some models a DC sender unit is located on
the top of the gearbox casing and may be

17.3a Crankshaft pulley mark (A) timing
mark (B) and TDC mark (C) (timing cover
removed) - 1.3 litre

1•15

used with a special VW tester to give an
instant read-out. However, this tester will not
normally be available to the home mechanic.
For initial setting-up purposes, the test bulb
method can be used but this must always be
followed by the stroboscopic timing light
method

Test bulb method
1 Remove No. 1 spark plug (crankshaft pulley
end) and place a thumb over the aperture.
2 Turn the engine in the normal running
direction (clockwise viewed from the
crankshaft pulley end) until pressure is felt in
No. 1 cylinder, indicating that the piston is
commencing its compression stroke. Use a
spanner on the crankshaft pulley bolt, or
engage top gear and pull the vehicle forwards.
3 Continue turning the engine until the line on
the crankshaft pulley is aligned with the
pointer on the timing cover. If there are no
marks on the timing cover, unscrew and
remove the DC sensor or blanking plug from
the top of the gearbox and align the timing
mark (see Specifications) with the timing
pointer (see illustrations).
4 Remove the distributor cap and check that
the rotor arm is pointing toward the No. 1 HT
lead location in the cap.

17.3b TDC timing marks - 1.6 and 1.8 litre
A Flywheel/driveplate
B Crankshaft pulley

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

5 Connect a 12 volt test bulb between the coil
LT negative terminal and a suitable earthing
point on the engine.
6 Loosen the distributor clamp retaining bolt.
7 Switch on the ignition. If the bulb is already
lit, turn the distributor body slightly clockwise
until the bulb goes out.
8 Turn the distributor body anti-clockwise
until the bulb just lights up, indicating that the
points have just opened. Tighten the clamp
retaining bolt.
9 Switch off the ignition and remove the test
bulb.
10 Refit the distributor cap and No. 1 spark
plug and HT lead. Once the engine has been
started, check the timing stroboscopically.

Stroboscopic timing light method
11 Run the engine until its normal operating
temperature is reached.
12 On 1.05, 1.3 and 1.8 litre fuel injection
engines, disconnect and plug the distributor
vacuum hose.
13 If there are no timing marks on the timing
cover and crankshaft pulley, unscrew and
remove the TDC sensor or blanking plug from
the top of the gearbox.
14 Connect the timing light in accordance
with the manufacturer’s instructions.

17.3c Rotor arm aligned with TDC mark on
distributor body – 1.6 and 1.8 litre

1

1•16

Every 10 000 miles or 12 months

17.17 Ignition timing marks
A 1.05 and 1.3 litre
B 1.6 and 1.8 litre (carburettor models)
C 1.8 litre (fuel injection models)
17.34 Disconnecting temperature sender
wire
15 Connect a tachometer in accordance with
the manufacturer’s instructions.
16 Start the engine and run it at idling speed.
17 Point the timing light at the timing mark
and pointer which should appear to be
stationary and aligned. If adjustment is
necessary (ie. the marks are not aligned),
loosen the clamp retaining bolt and turn the
distributor body to correct the ignition timing
(see illustration).
18 Gradually increase the engine speed while
still pointing the timing light at the timing
marks. The mark on the flywheel or pulley
should appear to move opposite to the
direction of rotation, proving that the
centrifugal weights are operating correctly. If
not, the centrifugal mechanism is faulty and
the distributor should be renewed.
19 Accurate checking of the vacuum
advance (and retard where fitted) requires the
use of a vacuum pump and gauge. However,
providing that the diaphragm unit is
serviceable, the vacuum hose(s) firmly fitted,
and the internal mechanism not seized, the
system should work correctly.
20 Switch off the engine, remove the timing
light and tachometer, and refit the vacuum
hose (where applicable).

Transistorised systems
Note: Accurate ignition timing is only possible
using a stroboscopic timing light, although on
some models a DC sender unit is located on
the top of the gearbox casing and may be
used with a special VW tester to give an
instant read-out. However, this tester will not
normally be available to the home mechanic

TCI-H
21 Run the engine until its normal operating
temperature is reached.
22 On 1.05, 1.3 and 1.8 fuel injection
engines, disconnect and plug the distributor
vacuum hose.
23 If there are no timing marks on the timing
cover and crankshaft pulley, unscrew and
remove the TDC sensor or blanking plug from
the top of the gearbox.
24 Connect a timing light in accordance with
the manufacturer’s instructions.
25 Connect a tachometer in accordance with
the manufacturer’s instructions.
26 Start the engine and run it at idling speed.

27 Point the timing light at the timing mark
and pointer which should appear to be
stationary and aligned. If adjustment is
necessary (ie. the marks are not aligned),
loosen the clamp retaining bolt and turn the
distributor body to correct the ignition timing
(see illustration 17.17).
28 Gradually increase the engine speed while
still pointing the timing light at the timing
marks. The mark on the flywheel or pulley
should appear to move opposite to the
direction of rotation, proving that the
centrifugal weights are operating correctly. If
not, the centrifugal mechanism is faulty and
the distributor should be renewed.
29 Accurate checking of the vacuum
advance (and retard where fitted) requires the
use of a vacuum pump and gauge. However,
providing that the diaphragm unit is
serviceable, the vacuum hose(s) firmly fitted,
and the internal mechanism not seized, the
system should work correctly.
30 Switch off the engine, remove the timing
light and tachometer, and refit the vacuum
hose (where applicable).

Digifant
31 Run the engine to normal operating
temperature, then switch off the ignition.
32 Connect a stroboscopic timing light to the
engine.
33 Run the engine at idle speed.
34 Disconnect the wiring from the
temperature sender (see illustration).
35 Increase the engine speed to between 2000
and 2500 rpm, then point the timing light at the
aperture over the flywheel. The timing marks
should be aligned (see illustration 17.17), but if
not, loosen the clamp bolt, turn the distributor
as required and retighten the bolt.
36 While checking the ignition timing, the
opportunity should be taken to check the
temperature and knock sensor controls.
37 With the temperature sender wiring
disconnected, increase the engine speed to
2300 rpm and note the exact ignition timing.
Hold the engine speed at 2300 rpm, then
reconnect the wiring and check that the
ignition timing advances by 30° ± 3° from the
previously noted value.
38 If the ignition timing only advances about
20°, slacken the knock sensor securing bolt,

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

retighten to 20 Nm (15 Ibf ft) and repeat the
test. If there is no difference, check the
associated wiring for an open-circuit, or as a
last resort, renew the knock sensor.
39 If there is no advance in ignition timing,
check the temperature sender wiring for an
open-circuit. A fault is indicated in the Digifant
control unit if there is no open-circuit.

18 Engine oil and filter renewal

2

Oil renewal
1 Before starting this procedure, gather
together all necessary tools and materials.
Ensure that you have plenty of clean rags and
newspapers handy to mop up any spills.
Ideally, the engine oil should be warm as it will
drain better and more built-up sludge will be
removed with it. Take care not to touch the
exhaust or any other hot parts of the engine
when working under the vehicle. To avoid any
possibility of scalding and to protect yourself
from possible skin irritants and other harmful
contaminants in used engine oils, it is advisable
to wear gloves when carrying out this work.
2 With the vehicle standing on level ground,
position a suitable container under the sump
drain plug (see illustration). Remove the
drain plug from the sump.
3 Allow some time for the old oil to drain,
noting that it may be necessary to reposition
the container as the flow of oil slows to a
trickle. Work can be speeded-up by removing

18.2 Sump drain plug

Every 10 000 miles or 12 months

1•17

18.13 Using a chain wrench to unscrew oil
filter

19.2 Check exhaust system connections
for leaks and security

19.3 Check exhaust system mountings

the oil filter, as described below, while the oil
is draining.
4 After all the oil has drained, wipe off the
drain plug with a clean rag and on 1.6 and 1.8
litre models, renew the O-ring. Clean the area
around the drain plug opening and refit the
plug. Tighten the plug to the specified torque
setting.
5 Depending on engine type, refer to the
following sub Section and renew the oil filter.
6 Remove the oil container and all tools from
under the vehicle.
7 Refill the engine with the specified type of
oil. Pour in half the specified quantity of oil
first, then wait a few minutes for the oil to
drain to the sump. Continue adding oil a small
quantity at a time until the level is up to the
lower mark on the dipstick (see Weekly
checks). Adding a further 1.0 litre will bring the
level up to the upper mark on the dipstick.
8 Start the engine and run it for a few minutes
while checking for leaks around the oil filter
seal and the sump drain plug.
9 Switch off the engine and wait a few
minutes for the oil to settle in the sump once
more. With the new oil circulated and the filter
now completely full, recheck the level on the
dipstick and add more oil as necessary.
10 Dispose of the used engine oil safely.

16 On completion, replenish the engine oil
then wipe clean the filter body. When the
engine is restarted, check around the filter
joint for any signs of leakage.

2 If excessive effort is required to operate the
clutch, check first that the cable is correctly
routed and undamaged, then remove the
pedal to ensure that its pivot is properly
greased before suspecting a fault in the cable
itself. If the cable is worn or damaged, or if its
adjusting mechanism is no longer effective,
then it must be renewed.
3 Refer to Chapter 6 and on those models
where it is possible, check that the clutch is
correctly adjusted.

Filter renewal
11 On 1.05 and 1.3 litre engines, the oil filter
is located on the front of the engine beside the
alternator.
12 On 1.6 and 1.8 litre engines, the oil filter is
located on the side of the crankcase beneath
the distributor. It is screwed onto a mounting
bracket attached to the crankcase. On fuel
injection models, an oil cooler is fitted between
the mounting bracket and filter cartridge.
13 With the engine oil drained, place a
suitable container beneath the filter then,
using a suitable tool, unscrew the filter (see
illustration). Empty any oil in the old filter into
the container and allow any residual oil to
drain out of the engine.
14 Check the old filter to make sure that the
rubber sealing ring has not stuck to the
engine. If it has, then carefully remove it. Wipe
clean the sealing face on the cylinder block.
15 Smear the sealing rubber on the new filter
with clean engine oil, then fit and tighten the
filter by hand only.

19 Exhaust system check

1

1 With the exhaust system cold, check the
complete system from the engine to the end of
the tailpipe. Ideally the inspection should be
carried out with the vehicle raised and
supported on axle stands (see “Jacking and
vehicle support”) to permit unrestricted access.
2 Check the exhaust pipes and connections
for evidence of leaks, severe corrosion and
damage (see illustration). Ensure that all
brackets and mountings are in good condition
and tight. Leakage at any of the joints or in
other parts of the system will usually show up
as a black sooty stain in the vicinity of the leak.
3 Rattles and other noises can often be
traced to the exhaust system, especially the
brackets and mountings (see illustration). Try
to move the pipes and silencers. If the
components can come into contact with the
body or suspension parts, secure the system
with new mountings or if possible, separate
the joints and twist the pipes as necessary to
provide additional clearance.

20 Slow running adjustment

4

22 Gearbox oil level check

2

Note: Gearbox oil can foam when hot and
give a false level reading. Allow the gearbox to
cool before checking the oil level.
1 The gearbox oil level must be checked
before the vehicle is driven, or at least 5
minutes after the engine has been switched
off. If the oil is checked immediately after
driving, some of the oil will remain distributed
around the gearbox components, resulting in
an inaccurate level reading.

084 and 085 gearboxes
2 Position the vehicle on level ground.
3 The oil filler/level plug is difficult to reach
using the normal hexagon key and it will be
much easier to use a nut and bolt as shown
(see illustration) together with a conventional
spanner. Instead of welding a single nut on
the bolt, two nuts may be tightened against
each other using thread-locking fluid.

To check this adjustment, first determine
which fuel system is fitted to the vehicle
concerned and then refer to the appropriate
Part of Chapter 4 for adjustment of that
particular system.

21 Clutch operation check

2

1 Check that the clutch pedal moves
smoothly and easily through its full travel and
that the clutch itself functions correctly, with
no trace of slip or drag.

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

22.3 Nut and bolt welded together to make
oil level plug removal tool - 084 gearbox
A Bolt M10 x 100 mm
B Welded nut
Arrows show area of weld

1

1•18

Every 10 000 miles or 12 months

22.4 Gearbox filler/level plug location
(arrowed) - 084 gearbox

22.10 Using a key to unscrew level plug 020 5-speed gearbox

4 Wipe clean the area around the filler/level
plug, then unscrew the plug and clean it.
Discard the sealing washer (see illustration).
5 The oil level should reach the lower edge of
the filler/level hole. A certain amount of oil will
have gathered behind the plug and will trickle
out when it is removed - this does not
necessarily indicate that the level is correct.
To ensure that a true level is established, wait
until the initial trickle has stopped, then add oil
as necessary until a trickle of new oil can be
seen emerging. The level will be correct when
the flow ceases. Use only good quality oil of
the specified type.
6 If the gearbox has been overfilled so that oil
flows out as soon as the filler/level plug is
removed, check that the vehicle is completely
level (front-to-rear and side-to-side) and allow
the surplus to drain off into a suitable
container.
7 When the oil level is correct, fit a new
sealing washer and refit the filler/level plug,
tightening it to the specified torque wrench
setting. Clean away any spilt oil.

10 When checking the oil level with the
vehicle on level ground, unscrew the level
plug (see illustration) and if there is a thick
flow of oil immediately refit the plug. If there is
no flow, first top-up to the bottom of the hole
then refit the plug.
11 Now add a further 0.5 litre of oil through
the speedometer driveshaft hole (see
illustration).
12 From October 1987, the oil level plug hole
has been relocated 7.0 mm higher than the
one on earlier models. Consequently all filling
and topping up can be carried out through the
oil level hole. Removal of the speedometer
drive cable is no longer necessary for final
topping up.

020 5-speed gearbox
8 Note the basic instructions given for the
084 and 085 gearboxes whilst taking into
account the following information.
9 This gearbox was originally designed for an
engine/gearbox unit without any inclination.
When fitted to the models covered in this
Manual a 2° inclination to the left exists,
therefore an accurate check cannot be made
with the vehicle on ground level.

23 Automatic transmission fluid
level check

1

1 Check the transmission fluid level with the
engine warm and idling, with the selector lever
in position N (neutral) and the handbrake
firmly applied.
2 With the vehicle on a level surface,
withdraw the level dipstick and wipe it clean
with a lint-free cloth. Reinsert it and withdraw
again. The level must be between the two
marks on the dipstick (see illustration). If not,
top-up the level through the dipstick tube
using the specified fluid.
3 If much topping-up is required, carry out a
check for leaks. If no external leaks are visible,
check the final drive oil level. If this is found to
be too high, it is probable that the
transmission fluid is leaking internally into the
final drive casing and if this is the case, it must
be attended to without delay by your VW
dealer.
4 The difference in quantity of fluid between
the maximum and minimum marks on the fluid
level dipstick is 0.4 litre.
5 On completion, insert the dipstick and
switch off the engine.

23.2 Automatic transmission fluid level
dipstick - remove in direction of arrow

22.11 Filling gearbox through
speedometer driveshaft hole - early 020
5-speed gearbox

24 CV joint and boot check

1

1 With the vehicle raised and supported on
axle stands (see “Jacking and vehicle
support”), turn the steering onto full lock then
slowly rotate each roadwheel in turn to
facilitate inspection of the CV joints and boots.
2 Inspect the condition of each CV joint boot
while squeezing it to open out any folds (see
illustration). Check for signs of cracking,
splits or deterioration of the rubber which may
allow grease to escape and lead to the entry
of water and grit into the joint. Also check the
security and condition of the boot retaining
clips. If any damage or deterioration is found,
the boot should be renewed.
3 At the same time, check the general
condition of the CV joints themselves by first
holding the driveshaft and attempting to
rotate the roadwheel. Repeat this check by
holding the inner joint and attempting to rotate
the driveshaft. Any appreciable movement
indicates wear in the joints, in the driveshaft
splines, or a loose driveshaft nut.

24.2 Inspect condition of each CV joint
boot

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

Every 10 000 miles or 12 months

25.3a Bend each brake hose to check for
cracks

25 Fuel and brake line, hose
and union check

1

Warning: Do not drive the
vehicle until necessary repair
work has been carried out on
damaged fuel and brake lines.
1 It is essential for this check to raise the
vehicle sufficiently enough to allow a
complete uninterrupted view of its underside.
2 Working methodically from one end of the
vehicle to the other, carry out the following
tasks.
3 Clean the rigid brake lines and flexible
hoses, at the same time checking them for
damage, leakage, chafing and cracks. If the
coating on the rigid pipes is damaged or if
rusting is apparent, then they must be
renewed. Check all pipe retaining clips for
security and clean away any accumulation of
dirt (see illustrations).
4 Similarly, inspect all hoses and metal pipes
leading away from the fuel tank. Pay particular
attention to the vent pipes and hoses which
often loop up around the tank filler neck and
can become blocked or crimped.
5 Inspect the underside of the fuel tank for
punctures, scrapes and other damage.
6 If any damage or deterioration is discovered
to either system, do not drive the vehicle until
the necessary repair work has been carried
out.

25.3b Check all pipe retaining clips for
security

26 Brake pad and rear shoe
lining check

1

Note: VW recommend that operation of the
brake pressure regulator is checked by one of
their garages at the same interval that the disc
pads and rear brake linings are checked for
wear

Brake pads
1 Both front and rear brake pad lining wear
can be checked by viewing through a hole in
the wheel rim (see illustration). Use a mirror
placed on the inside of the wheel. The use of a
torch may also be necessary.
2 If pad thickness is less than the minimum
amount specified, renew the pads as a set.

Rear brake shoes
3 Jack up the rear of the vehicle and support
it on axle stands (see “Jacking and vehicle
support”). Chock the front wheels.
4 Working beneath the vehicle, remove the
rubber plugs from the front of the backplates
and check with a torch that the linings are not
worn below the minimum thickness specified.
On completion, refit the plugs.

27 Headlight beam alignment
check

3

1•19

26.1 Check brake pad lining wear by
viewing through inspection aperture
3 Switch on the main beam and check that
the areas of maximum illumination coincide
with the headlamp centre marks on the wall. If
not, turn the upper cross-head adjustment
screw to adjust the beam laterally and/or the
lower screw to adjust the beam vertically (see
illustration).

Twin unit
4 On models with twin headlamps, the inner
lamps are adjusted laterally with the lower
adjustment screw and vertically with the
upper screw.

28 Steering gear check

1 Raise the front of the vehicle and securely
support it on axle stands (see “Jacking and
vehicle support”).
2 Visually inspect the balljoint dust covers
and the steering gear rubber gaiters for splits,
chafing or deterioration (see illustration). Any
damage to these components will cause loss
of lubricant together with dirt and water entry,
resulting in rapid deterioration of the balljoints
or steering gear.
3 Grasp the roadwheel at the 9 and 3 o’clock
positions and try to rock it. Any movement felt
may be caused by wear in the hub bearings or
track rod balljoints. If a balljoint is worn, the
visual movement will be obvious. If the inner
joint is suspect, it can be felt by placing a
hand over the steering gear rubber gaiter and

Single unit

27.3 Turn adjustment screws (arrowed) to
adjust headlamp beam alignment

Caution: It is recommended that headlamp
beam alignment is checked by a VW
garage using modern beam setting
equipment. However, in an emergency, the
following procedure will provide an
acceptable light pattern.
1 With its tyres correctly inflated, position the
vehicle on a level surface, approximately 10
metres in front of a flat wall.
2 Draw a horizontal line on the wall or door at
headlamp centre height. Draw a vertical line
corresponding to the centre line of the vehicle.
Now measure off a point either side of this, on
the horizontal line, corresponding with the
headlamp centres.

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

1

28.2 Inspect balljoint dust covers

1

1•20

Every 10 000 miles or 12 months

gripping the track rod. If the wheel is now
rocked, movement will be felt at the inner joint
if wear has taken place.
4 With the vehicle standing on its wheels,
have an assistant turn the steering wheel back
and forth about an eighth of a turn each way.
There should be very little, if any, lost
movement between the steering wheel and
the roadwheels. If this is not the case, closely
observe the joints and mountings previously
described, but in addition check for wear of
the steering column universal joint and the
steering gear itself.

29 Suspension check

1

1 Raise and support each end of the vehicle
in turn and inspect the suspension
components for signs of excessive wear or
damage as follows.
2 Inspect the suspension balljoints for wear
and the dust covers for any signs of splits or
deterioration. Renew if necessary.
3 Check the track control arm (wishbone) and
anti-roll bar mounting/pivot bushes for signs
of excessive wear and/or deterioration and
again renew if necessary.
4 Check the shock absorbers for signs of
leakage and the suspension to subframe and
body mountings for signs of corrosion (see
illustration).

29.4 Check shock absorbers for leakage

30 Hinge and catch lubrication

1

1 Lubricate the door, bonnet and tailgate
hinges with a little light machine oil.
2 Lubricate also the bonnet release
mechanism and door, bonnet and tailgate
locks. Do not lubricate the steering lock.
3 At the same time lubricate the door check
straps with a little multi-purpose grease.

31 Vehicle underbody check

1

Note: Steam-cleaning is available at many
garages for the purpose of removing any

accumulation of oily grime from beneath a
vehicle.
1 Raise the vehicle sufficiently enough to
allow a complete uninterrupted view of its
underside.
2 Wash the vehicle underbody down as
thoroughly as possible.
3 Carefully check all underbody paintwork,
looking closely for chips or scratches. Check
with particular care vulnerable areas such as
the front spoiler and around the wheel arches.
Any damage to the paintwork must be
rectified to prevent further corrosion.
4 If a chip or light scratch is found that is
recent and still free from rust, it can be
touched-up using the appropriate paint. More
serious damage or rusted stone chips can be
repaired as described in Chapter 11. If
damage or corrosion is so severe that a panel
must be renewed, seek professional advice as
soon as possible.
5 The wax-based underbody protective
coating should now be inspected to ensure
that it is unbroken and any damage to the
coating repaired using undershield. If any
body panels are disturbed for repair or
renewed, do not forget to replace the coating
and to inject wax into door panels, sills, box
sections etc. so as to maintain the level of
protection provided by the manufacturer.
6 Check carefully that all wheel arch liners
and underwing shields are in place and
securely fastened.
7 Finally, check that all door and ventilator
opening drain holes and pipes are completely
clear so that water is allowed to drain.

Every 20 000 miles (30 000 km) or 24 months
32 Air cleaner element renewal

1

Carburettor models
1.05 and 1.3 litre engines
1 Release the spring clips securing the air
cleaner lid and remove the lid (see
illustration).

32.1 Unclip the air cleaner lid . . .

2 Cover the carburettor entry port to prevent
any dirt entering it when the element is lifted
out. Remove the element (see illustration).
Wipe the inside of the air cleaner with a moist
rag to remove all dust and dirt and then
remove the covering from the entry port.
3 Fit the new element. Clean the cover,
position it in place, then clip it down whilst
ensuring that the two arrows are aligned.

1.6 and 1.8 litre engines
4 Unclip and remove the cover then withdraw

32.2 . . . and remove the element 1.3 litre, carburettor

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

the element. Note that on some models, it is
necessary to first loosen the front mounting
nut (see illustrations).
5 Clean the interior of the air cleaner with a
fuel-moistened cloth, then wipe it dry.
6 Fit the new element in the reverse order of
removal.

Fuel-injected models
7 Release the spring clips securing the air
cleaner cover and separate the cover from the
airflow meter (see illustration).

32.4a Unclip air cleaner cover . . .

Every 20 000 miles or 24 months

1•21

32.7 Air cleaner components Digijet fuel injection
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
32.4b . . . loosen front mounting nut . . .

9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17

Upper cover
Screws
O-ring
Airflow meter
Tamperproof plug
Hose clip
Intake hose
Mixture (CO content)
adjusting screw
O-ring
Connector
Air cleaner element
Lower body
Rubber washer
Pre-heater hose
Retaining ring
Air intake pre-heater
regulator flap
To inlet elbow

1

32.4c . . . then remove cover to expose
element - 1.6 and 1.8 litre, carburettor
8 Withdraw the element from the housing.
9 Wipe clean the inside of the cover.
10 Fit the new element and secure the cover
by pressing the clips home.

33 Fuel filter renewal

2

Carburettor models
1 To remove the in-line filter, remove its pipe
retaining clips, disconnect the pipes and
extract the filter (see illustration). If
necessary, replace the original crimped type
clips with screw type ones.
2 Fit the new filter in a horizontal position with
its arrow facing the flow of fuel towards the
fuel pump. Ensure that the pipe retaining clips
are properly tightened then start the engine
and check carefully for any signs of fuel leaks
from the pipe ends.
3 Dispose safely of the old filter, it will be
highly inflammable and may explode if thrown
on a fire.

on axle stands (see “Jacking and vehicle
support”).
7 At the forward end of the filter, undo the
fuel accumulator hose union bolt and detach
the union whilst collecting the washer each
side of it.
8 At the rear end of the filter, detach the fuel
supply hose (to the metering distributor) by
undoing the union bolt. Collect the washer
each side of the union.
9 Loosen the filter retaining clamp and
withdraw the filter.
10 Fitting the new filter is a reversal of the
removal procedure. Renew the union washers
and tighten the union bolts to the specified
torque. Check that the arrow on the filter
points in the direction of fuel flow.
11 On completion, check for any signs of fuel

leakage with the engine running.
12 Dispose safely of the old filter, it will be
highly inflammable and may explode if thrown
on a fire.

33.1 In-line fuel filter - 1.05 and 1.3 litre,
carburettor

33.4 Fuel filter unit clamp (A) hose to
accumulator (B) and hose to metering
valve (C) - K-Jetronic fuel injection

34 Sunroof guide rail cleaning
and lubrication

1

Open the sunroof and wipe clean its guide
rails. Coat each rail very lightly with grease,
ensuring that none finds its way onto the
interior trim.
Check that the sunroof opens and closes
smoothly throughout its complete operating
range.

Fuel-injected models
4 The fuel filter is mounted on the inboard
side of the pump reservoir on the underside of
the vehicle at the rear just forward of the fuel
tank (see illustration)
5 Disconnect the battery earth lead.
6 Raise the vehicle at the rear and support it

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

1•22

Maintenance procedures

Every 30 000 miles (45 000 km)
35 Automatic transmission and
final drive fluid renewal

2

Note: Under extreme operating conditions,
automatic transmission fluid should be
changed at more frequent intervals.

Automatic transmission
1 Whenever the automatic transmission fluid
is renewed, the oil pan and strainer must also
be cleaned (where applicable). First jack up
the vehicle and support it on axle stands (see
“Jacking and vehicle support”).
2 Remove the transmission drain plug and drain
the fluid into a container. If there is no drain plug,
loosen the oil pan front bolts then unscrew the
rear bolts and lower the pan in order to drain the
fluid (see illustration). Take care to avoid
scalding if the engine has just been run.
3 Unbolt and remove the pan from the
transmission and remove the gasket. Clean
the inside of the pan.
4 Unbolt the strainer cover and remove the
strainer and gasket.
5 Clean the strainer and cover and dry
thoroughly.
6 Refit the cover and strainer, together with a
new gasket, and tighten the bolts to the
specified torque.
7 Refit the pan, together with a new gasket,
and tighten the securing bolts to the specified
torque. Lower the vehicle.
8 Initially, refill the transmission with 2.5 litres
of the specified fluid, then restart the engine.
Check that the handbrake is fully applied then
move the gear selector lever through the full
range of gears finishing at N. With the engine
still idling, check the fluid level on the dipstick.
The fluid level should at least be visible on the
dipstick. If not, add the minimum amount of

35.2 Automatic transmission oil pan and strainer
fluid necessary to bring the level up to be
visible on the tip of the dipstick.
9 Take the vehicle on a short drive to
warm-up the fluid in the transmission then
recheck the fluid level. Top-up if necessary.
Do not overfill with fluid or the excess will
have to be drained off.

not, top-up the level through the plug hole
then refit the plug. Lower the vehicle.

Final drive unit
10 To check the oil level in the final drive unit,
the vehicle will need to be over an inspection
pit or raised and supported on a level position
on axle stands (see “Jacking and vehicle
support”) for access to the filler/level plug
(see illustration).
11 Remove the plug and check that the oil is
level with the bottom edge of the plug hole. If

35.10 Final drive unit oil filler/level plug
(arrowed)

Every 2 years
36 Brake fluid renewal

3

1 The procedure is similar to that described
for bleeding of the hydraulic system in
Chapter 9, except that the brake fluid
reservoir should be emptied before starting by
syphoning, using a clean poultry baster or
similar. Also, allowance should be made for
the old fluid to be expelled when bleeding a
section of the circuit.

2 Working as described in Chapter 9, open
the first bleed nipple in the sequence and
pump the brake pedal gently until nearly all
the old fluid has been emptied from the
master cylinder reservoir. Top-up to the MAX
level with new fluid and continue pumping
until only the new fluid remains in the reservoir
and new fluid can be seen emerging from the
bleed nipple. Tighten the nipple and top the
reservoir level up to the MAX level line.
3 Old hydraulic fluid is invariably much darker
in colour than the new, making it easy to
distinguish the two.

Every 40 000 miles (60 000 km)
37 Timing belt renewal

3

Refer to the appropriate Part of Chapter 2
for the particular engine type concerned.

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

4 Work through all the remaining nipples in
the sequence until new fluid can be seen at all
of them. Be careful to keep the master
cylinder reservoir topped up to above the MIN
level at all times or air may enter the system
and greatly increase the length of the task.
5 When the operation is complete, check that
all nipples are securely tightened and that
their dust caps are refitted. Wash off all traces
of spilt fluid and recheck the master cylinder
reservoir fluid level.
6 Check the operation of the brakes before
taking the vehicle on the road.

2A•1

Chapter 2 Part A:
Engine repair procedures 1.05 and 1.3 litre pre August 1985
Contents
Camshaft - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
Camshaft - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
Camshaft - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Crankshaft and bearings - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . . 21
Crankshaft and main bearings - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
Crankshaft and main bearings - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Crankshaft oil seals - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Cylinder block/crankcase - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . 22
Cylinder head - dismantling and overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Cylinder head - reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
Cylinder head - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
Cylinder head - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Engine dismantling - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Engine reassembly - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Engine - adjustments after major overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
Engine ancillary components - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Engine ancillary components and gearbox - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . 39
Engine - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
Engine - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Engine/gearbox - separation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Examination and renovation - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20

Flywheel - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Flywheel - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
Flywheel - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Major operation only possible after removal of engine from vehicle . . 3
Major operations possible with engine in vehicle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Method of engine removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Oil filter - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Oil pump - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Oil pump - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
Oil pump - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Pistons and connecting rods - examination and renovation . . . . . . . 23
Pistons and connecting rods - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Pistons and connecting rods - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Sump - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
Sump - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..15
Timing belt and sprockets - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . 26
Timing belt and sprockets - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
Timing belt and sprockets - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Valve clearances - checking and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38

2A

Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience

1

Fairly easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience

2

Fairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic

3

Difficult, suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanic

4

Very difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional

Specifications
General
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Code:
1.05 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1.3 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Firing order . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Displacement:
1.05 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1.3 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Bore:
1.05 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1.3 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Stroke:
1.05 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1.3 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Compression ratio:
1.05 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1.3 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Compression pressure:
New . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Minimum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Maximum permissible difference between any two cylinders . . . . . .

Four-cylinder in-line, water cooled, overhead camshaft
GN
HK
1-3-4-2 (No 1 at camshaft sprocket end)
1043 cc
1272 cc
75.0 mm
75.0 mm
59.0 mm
72.0 mm
9.5 to 1
9.5 to 1
8 to 10 bar
7.0 bar
3.0 bar

1081 VW Golf & Jeta

5

2A•2 Engine repair procedures - 1.05 and 1.3 litre pre August 1985
Crankshaft
Main journal:
Standard diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Undersizes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Crankpin:
Standard diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Journal undersizes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Endfloat:
Maximum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Minimum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Main bearing maximum running clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

54.0 mm
53.75, 53.50 and 53.25 mm
42 mm
41.75, 41.50 and 41.25 mm
0.20 mm
0.07 mm
0.17 mm

Connecting rods
Big-end:
Maximum running clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Maximum endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.095 mm
0.40 mm

Pistons
Clearance in bore:
Maximum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Minimum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Diameter:
Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Oversize:
1st oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2nd oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3rd oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Wear limit (10 mm from base/ right angles to pin) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.07 mm
0.03 mm
74.98 mm
75.23 mm
75.48 mm
75.98 mm
0.04 mm

Piston rings
Maximum clearance in groove. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
End gap:
Compression rings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Oil scraper ring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.15 mm
0.30 to 0.45 mm
0.25 to 0.40 mm

Gudgeon pin
Fit in piston . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Push fit at 60°C

Cylinder head
Maximum allowable face distortion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.1 mm

Camshaft
Run-out at centre bearing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.02 mm
0.15 mm

Valves
Seat angle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Head diameter:
Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Stem diameter:
Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Standard overall length:
Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

45°
34.0 mm
28.1 mm
7.97 mm
7.95 mm
110.5 mm
110.5 mm

Valve guides
Maximum valve rock (stem flush with guide):
Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1.0 mm
1.3 mm

Valve timing
Nil valve clearance at 1.0 mm valve lift
1.05 litre:
Inlet opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Inlet closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Exhaust opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Exhaust closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9° ATDC
13° ABDC
15° BBDC
11° BTDC

1081 VW Golf & Jeta

Engine repair procedures - 1.05 and 1.3 litre pre August 1985 2A•3
1.3 litre:
Inlet opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Inlet closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Exhaust opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Exhaust closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

3° BTDC
38° ABDC
41° BBDC
3° BTDC

Valve clearances
Warm:
Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Cold:
Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.15 to 0.20 mm
0.25 to 0.30 mm
0.10 to 0.15 mm
0.20 to 0.25 mm

Lubrication
System type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Lubricant type/specification/capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Filter type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Pump type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Pressure (2000 rpm with oil temperature 80°C) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Wet sump, pressure feed, full flow filter
Refer to “Lubricants, fluids and capacities”
Champion C101/C160
Eccentric gear driven by crankshaft
2.0 bar minimum

Torque wrench settings
Nm
lbf ft
Engine to gearbox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55
41
Exhaust pipe to manifold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
18
Flywheel bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75
55
Clutch bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
18
Sump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
15
Sump drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
22
Main bearing cap bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65
48
Oil pump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
7
Connecting rod big-end cap nuts (oiled):
Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
22
Stage 2* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tighten further 1/4 turn (90°)
Oil suction pipe to pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
7
Oil relief valve plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
18
Oil pressure sender switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
18
Timing cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
7
Valve cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
7
Camshaft sprocket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80
59
Crankshaft sprocket/pulley nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80
59
Coolant pump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
7
Distributor flange bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
15
Cylinder head bolts (engine cold):
Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
30
Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60
44
Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tighten further 1/2 turn (180°)
Engine mountings (with oiled threads):
Refer to illustrations 40.1a and 40.1b
(a) M8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
18
(a) M10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45
33
(b) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
26
(c) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45
33
(d) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50
37
(e) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60
44
(f) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70
52
(g) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80
59
* When checking the connecting rod-to-crankshaft journal radial clearance using Plastigage, tighten only to 30Nm (22 lbf ft).
1 General information

The 1.05 and 1.3 litre engines are of
four-cylinder, in-line, overhead camshaft type,
mounted transversely at the front of the
vehicle. The transmission is attached to the
left-hand side of the engine.

The crankshaft is of five bearing type and
separate thrustwashers are fitted to the
central main bearing to control crankshaft
endfloat.
The camshaft is driven by a toothed belt
which also drives the coolant pump. The
toothed belt is tensioned by moving the coolant
pump in its eccentric mounting. The valves are
operated from the camshaft by rocker fingers
which pivot on ball-head studs. The distributor

1081 VW Golf & Jeta

is driven by the camshaft and is located on the
left-hand end of the cylinder head.
The oil pump is of the eccentric gear type
driven from the end of the crankshaft.
The cylinder head is of crossflow design,
with the inlet manifold at the rear and the
exhaust manifold at the front.
The crankcase ventilation system is of the
positive type and consists of an oil separator
on the rear (coolant pipe side) of the cylinder

2A

2A•4 Engine repair procedures - 1.05 and 1.3 litre pre August 1985
block, connected to the air cleaner by a
rubber hose. Vacuum from the air cleaner
provides a partial vacuum in the crankcase
and the piston blow-by gases are drawn
through the oil separator and into the engine
combustion chambers.

2 Major operations possible
with engine in vehicle
The following operations can be carried out
without having to remove the engine from the
vehicle:
a) Removal and servicing of the cylinder
head, camshaft and timing belt
b) Removal of the flywheel and crankshaft
rear oil seal (after removal of the gearbox)
c) Removal of the sump
d) Removal of the piston/connecting rod
assemblies (after removal of the cylinder
head and sump)
e) Renewal of the crankshaft front and rear
oil seals and the camshaft front oil seal
f) Renewal of the engine mountings
g) Removal of the oil pump

3 Major operation only
possible after removal of
engine from vehicle
The following operation can only be carried
out after removal of the engine from the vehicle:
a) Renewal of crankshaft main bearings

4 Method of engine removal

1 The engine, together with the gearbox,
must be lifted from the engine compartment
and the engine separated from the gearbox
on the bench. Two people will be needed.

2 A hoist of 150 kg capacity will be needed to
lift the engine approximately 1 metre. If the
hoist is not portable, then sufficient room
must be left behind the vehicle to push it back
out of the way so that the engine may be
lowered. Blocks will be needed to support the
engine after removal.
3 Ideally the vehicle should be over a pit. If
this is not possible then the body must be
supported on axle stands (see “Jacking and
vehicle support”) so that the front wheels may
be turned to undo the driveshaft nuts. The
left-hand shaft is accessible from above but
the right-hand shaft must be undone from
underneath. Removal of the gearshift linkage
can only be done from underneath, as can
removal of the exhaust pipe bracket. When all
tasks are complete, lower the vehicle back
onto its wheels.
4 A set of splined keys will be required to
remove and refit the socket-head bolts used
to secure certain items, such as the cylinder
head bolts.
5 Draining of oil and coolant is best done
away from the working area if possible. This
saves the mess made by spilled oil in the
place where you must work.
6 If an air conditioning system is fitted,
observe the precautions listed in Chapter 3.

5 Engine - removal

4

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2 Remove the bonnet.
3 Drain the engine coolant and remove the
radiator, complete with cooling fan unit.
4 Remove the air cleaner unit.
5 Loosen the clip and disconnect the top
hose from the thermostat housing.
6 Place a container beneath the engine then
unscrew the sump drain plug and drain the oil
- see Chapter 1. When complete, clean the
drain plug and washer and refit it to the sump.

5.7 Detach hoses from fuel pump

7 Identify the fuel supply and return hoses
then disconnect them from the fuel pump (see
illustration) and fuel reservoir/carburettor.
Plug the hoses to prevent fuel leakage.
8 Loosen the clip and disconnect the bottom
hose from the coolant pipe at the rear of the
engine.
9 Disconnect the accelerator cable and,
where applicable, the choke cable.
10 Disconnect the heater hoses from the
thermostat housing and rear coolant pipe.
11 Detach the following connections,
identifying each lead as it is disconnected to
avoid confusion on reassembly:
a) The oil pressure switches on the rear
(carburettor side) of the cylinder head
b) Inlet manifold preheating element line
connector
c) Thermo-switch leads (coolant hose
intermediate piece)
d) Distributor HT and LT leads
e) Starter motor
f) Temperature sender unit (thermostat
housing)
g) Fuel cut-off solenoid valve on carburettor
h) Earth strap to gearbox
12 Detach the wiring loom from the location
clip on the bottom hose and fold back out of
the way.
13 Disconnect and unclip the vacuum hoses
from the distributor and inlet manifold as
necessary.
14 Disconnect the clutch cable (see
illustration).
15 Disconnect the exhaust downpipe from
the exhaust manifold.
16 Disconnect the speedometer cable from
the gearbox and place it on one side.
17 Apply the handbrake then jack up the
front of the vehicle and support it on axle
stands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”).
18 Remove the screw from the shift rod
coupling and ease the coupling from the rod
(see illustration). The screw threads are
coated with a liquid locking agent and if

5.14 Earth lead (A) and clutch cable (B)

1081 VW Golf & Jeta

Engine repair procedures - 1.05 and 1.3 litre pre August 1985 2A•5

5.18 Shift rod coupling screw
difficulty is experienced, it may be necessary
to heat up the coupling with a blowlamp whilst
observing the necessary fire precautions.
Note that once removed this screw should be
renewed.
19 Note its orientation then withdraw the shift
rod coupling.
20 Unbolt the exhaust steady bracket from
the downpipe and clutch housing/starter
motor.
21 Detach the reversing light switch lead
(see illustration).
22 Unbolt the driveshafts from the drive
flanges and tie them to one side with wire.
23 Attach a suitable hoist to the engine lifting
eye brackets (one at each end of the cylinder
head on the carburettor side) (see
illustration). Take the weight of the
engine/gearbox unit.
24 Working from above, undo the three
engine mounting/bearer retaining bolts
(underneath the carburettor) (see illustration).
25 Undo and remove the gearbox mounting
bolt (rear left side of engine compartment).
26 Undo and remove the front engine
mounting bolt and then remove the bolts
securing the bracket to the engine. Withdraw
the mounting (see illustrations).

5.21 Reversing light switch

5.23 Engine lifting eye

5.24 Engine mounting/bearer - right-hand

5.26a Undo front mounting through-bolt

27 Before lifting out the engine/gearbox unit,
get an assistant to hold the engine steady and
help guide it clear of surrounding components
as it is removed.
28 Lift the engine/gearbox unit from the
engine compartment (see illustration) while
turning it as necessary to clear the internally
mounted components. Make sure that all
wires, cables and hoses have been
disconnected.
29 Lower the unit onto a workbench or large
piece of wood placed on the floor.

5.26b Unbolt and remove mounting unit

6 Engine/gearbox - separation

1 The engine/gearbox unit must be
supported so that the gearbox can be eased
away from it. Either support the engine on
blocks so that the gearbox overhangs the
bench, or do the job while the engine and
gearbox are on the hoist.
2 Detach the lead from the alternator then
unclip the lead from the locating clips on the
sump side walls.

5.28 Lifting out engine/gearbox unit

1081 VW Golf & Jeta

3

2A

2A•6 Engine repair procedures - 1.05 and 1.3 litre pre August 1985

6.3 Starter motor and exhaust support
bracket

3 Because the rear bearing of the starter
armature is in the bellhousing, it is necessary
to remove the starter before separating the
engine and gearbox. If not already removed
when unbolting the starter motor, also detach
the exhaust pipe support bracket (see
illustration).
4 Detach the coolant pipe at its flange on the
rear side of the coolant pump and at the
clutch housing.
5 Undo the clutch housing belly plate bolt
and withdraw the plate.
6 Undo and remove the remaining
engine-to-gearbox securing bolts then pull the
gearbox free. Do not insert wedges or you will
damage the facing. Tap the gearbox gently
and wriggle it off the two dowels which locate
it. The intermediate plate will remain in
position (see illustrations).

8.1a Lift the mounting away

8.1b Right-hand rear mounting viewed
from above

6.6a Undo securing bolts (recessed bolt
shown) . . .

7 Engine dismantling - general
information

6.6b . . . then separate engine and
transmission

8 Engine ancillary components
- removal

3

1 If possible, mount the engine on a stand for
the dismantling procedure, but failing this,
support it in an upright position with blocks of
wood.
2 Cleanliness is most important. If the engine
is dirty, it should be cleaned with paraffin
while keeping it in an upright position.
3 Avoid working with the engine directly on a
concrete floor as grit presents a real source of
trouble.
4 As parts are removed, clean them in a
paraffin bath. Do not immerse parts with
internal oilways in paraffin as it is difficult to
remove. Clean oilways with nylon pipe
cleaners.
5 Obtain suitable containers to hold small
items. This will help when reassembling the
engine and also prevent possible loss.
6 Obtain complete sets of gaskets when the
engine is being dismantled but retain the old
gaskets with a view to using them as a pattern
to make a replacement if a new one is not
available.
7 When possible, refit nuts, bolts and
washers in their location after being removed.
This helps to protect the threads and will also
be helpful when reassembling the engine.
8 Retain unserviceable components in order
to compare them with the new parts supplied.

With the engine removed from the vehicle
and separated from the gearbox, the
externally mounted ancillary components
should now be removed before dismantling
begins. The removal sequence need not
necessarily follow the order given:
a) Alternator and drivebelt
b) Inlet manifold and carburettor
c) Exhaust manifold
d) Distributor
e) Fuel pump
f) Thermostat
g) Clutch
h) Crankcase ventilation hose
i) Distributor cap and spark plugs
j) Oil filter
k) Engine mountings (see illustrations)
l) Dipstick (see illustration)
m) Oil pressure switches
n) Coolant temperature thermo-switch
o) Alternator mounting bracket and engine
earth lead
p) Engine rear coolant pipe (see illustration)

8.1c Engine dipstick and tube

8.1d Removing engine rear coolant pipe

1081 VW Golf & Jeta

Engine repair procedures - 1.05 and 1.3 litre pre August 1985 2A•7

9 Cylinder head - removal

3

1 If the engine is still in the vehicle, first carry
out the following operations:
a) Disconnect the battery negative lead
b) Remove the air cleaner and fuel pump
c) Drain the cooling system and remove the
top hose and thermostat
d) Remove the distributor and spark plugs
e) Remove the inlet and exhaust manifolds.
If necessary, this can be carried out with
the cylinder head on the bench
f) Disconnect the wiring from the coolant
temperature sender and oil pressure
switch
2 Unscrew the nuts and bolts from the valve
cover and remove the cover together with the
gasket and reinforcement strips (see
illustrations).
3 Turn the engine until the indentation in the
camshaft sprocket appears in the TDC hole in
the timing cover and the notch in the
crankshaft pulley is aligned with the TDC
pointer on the front of the oil pump (see
illustrations). Now turn the crankshaft one
quarter of a turn anti-clockwise so that none
of the pistons are at TDC.

9.2a Removing valve cover. . .

9.2b . . . and gasket

4 Unbolt and remove the timing cover (see
illustration), noting that the dipstick tube and
earth lead are fitted to the upper bolts. On
some later 1.3 litre models, it is necessary to
remove the crankshaft pulley to remove the
lower timing belt cover. Pull the dipstick tube
from the cylinder block.
5 Using a socket through the hole in the
camshaft sprocket, unscrew the timing cover
plate upper retaining bolt.
6 Loosen the coolant pump retaining bolts,
then turn the pump body clockwise to release
the tension from the timing belt. Remove the
timing belt from the camshaft sprocket.

7 Remove the bolts and withdraw the timing
cover plate, followed by the coolant pump if
required.
8 Using a splined key, unscrew the cylinder
head bolts half a turn at a time in the reverse
order to that shown for tightening. Note the
location of the engine lifting hooks.
9 Lift the cylinder head from the block (see
illustration). If it is stuck, tap it free with a
wooden mallet. Do not insert a lever as
damage will occur to the joint faces.
10 Remove the gasket from the cylinder
block (see illustration).

2A

9.3a TDC mark on camshaft sprocket and pointer

9.4 Removing timing cover

9.3b Crankshaft pulley notch aligned with TDC pointer

9.9 Removing cylinder head . . .

1081 VW Golf & Jeta

9.10 . . . and gasket

2A•8 Engine repair procedures - 1.05 and 1.3 litre pre August 1985

10.7 Removing oil spray tube

10 Camshaft - removal

3

1 If the engine is still in the vehicle, first carry
out the following operations:
a) Disconnect the battery negative lead
b) Remove the air cleaner and fuel pump
c) Remove the distributor and spark plugs
2 If the cylinder head is still fitted to the
engine, first carry out the procedure
described in paragraphs 3 to 6 inclusive.
3 Unscrew the nuts and bolts from the valve
cover and remove the cover together with the
gasket and reinforcement strips.
4 Turn the engine until the indentation in the
camshaft sprocket appears in the TDC hole in
the timing cover and the notch in the

10.8 Removing a cam follower clip

10.9 Removing a cam follower

crankshaft pulley is aligned with the TDC
pointer on the front of the oil pump. Now turn
the crankshaft one quarter of a turn
anti-clockwise so that none of the pistons are
at TDC.
5 Unbolt and remove the timing cover, noting
that the dipstick tube and earth lead are fitted
to the upper bolts. On some later 1.3 litre
models, it is necessary to remove the
crankshaft pulley to remove the lower timing
belt cover.
6 Loosen the coolant pump retaining bolts,
then turn the pump body clockwise to release
the tension from the timing belt. Remove the
timing belt from the camshaft sprocket.
7 Prise the oil spray tube from the top of the
cylinder head (see illustration).
8 Note how the cam follower clips are fitted
then prise them from the ball-studs (see
illustration).

9 Identify each cam follower for location then
remove each one by levering with a
screwdriver. Make sure that the peak of the
relevant cam is pointing away from the
follower first by turning the camshaft as
necessary (see illustration).
10 Unscrew the camshaft sprocket bolt and
remove the spacer (see illustration). The
sprocket can be held stationary using a metal
bar with two bolts, with one bolt inserted in a
hole and the other bolt resting on the outer rim
of the sprocket.
11 Tap the sprocket from the camshaft with a
wooden mallet and prise out the Woodruff
key.
12 Using feeler blades, check the camshaft
endfloat by inserting the blade between the
end of the camshaft and distributor flanges
(see illustration). If it is more than the amount
specified, the components will have to be
checked for wear and renewed as necessary.
13 Using an Allen key, unscrew the bolts and
remove the distributor flange (see
illustration). Remove the gasket.
14 Carefully slide the camshaft from the
cylinder head, taking care not to damage the
three bearing surfaces as the lobes of the
cams pass through them (see illustration).
15 Prise the camshaft oil seal from the
cylinder head (see illustration).

10.10 Removing camshaft sprocket bolt
(early type sprocket shown)

10.12 Checking camshaft endfloat

10.13 Removing distributor flange

10.14 Withdrawing camshaft

1081 VW Golf & Jeta

10.15 Removing camshaft oil seal


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